sound system

[donwon]

I am thinking of upgrading my sound system but I do not want to put a sub box in the passenger footwell. I was thinking of replacing the 6.5's in the door and keeping factory sub. Anyone know if this will work? Also, any suggestions on 6.5's that are good on the lower end? Thanks in advance.

[D'Ecosse]

That is not an unreasonable proposal - if you are not into the heavy bass appeal of current music fads, you could get a decent improvement from a quality set of door speakers - go with a component set-up to get the best response, marginally more install work than a co-axial. MB Quart, Infinity & Focals are all good choices worthy of your consideration.
It really depends on your budget - you could easily get an 8" sub & custom enclosure that would fit anonomously in the original location that is not going to overpower you but round out the total sound experience. However, the enclosure is typically going to be much more expensive than your speaker selection here!
You may wish to at least consider the possibility of running the additional speaker & RCA cables to your amp location for future consideration - minimal extra cost for the cables versus the work of having to re-do it all again if you decide to add later. (Traditional location for the amp is in the trunk, although you may also be able to locate it vertically behind one of the seats.)
You could start with a 2 channel amp if you are absolutley set on just doing the doors, or give yourself more future options with a quality 4 channel - you can run this bridged to 2 channel if you like but could run a sub off 2 channels bridged plus one each for the doors in future. To go with a 4-ch & the additional wiring up front will not be too much more $$$ but give you more options after you hear the result from your primary choice of new doors plus stock sub. You can always defer the cost of the most expensive component (sub + enclosure) this way too, till a later time.

p.s. Quick plug - I have a 4 ch amp & custom trunk enclosure listed in the for sale section http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/8/pain.gif

[donwon]

Thanks D'ecosse. Good idea about keeping the options open for present use and future additions. Your reply was so imformative, i feel led to post additional details on use and preference. First off, im not concerned about budget as long I get what I pay for. I like bass, but dont want to loose any passenger area for it. Just want something a little better than what the currently bose does. Not an audiophile by any stretch of the imagination, but would like to take advantage of the mp3 players that are currently being offered and upgrade to a little better sound system while im doing it.

[D'Ecosse]

I'm confident you will be able to get a sub enclosure in the original location for 8" and many have installed 10", without sacrificing any interior space. There are several members of this board that offer that service if you do a search on subwoofer enclosure. Cost for the box is ~$400 plus sub of your choice from there. If you are not looking for the booming predominant bass for rap, hip-hop etc, an 8" should be adequate for your described needs.
The stock head unit can be utulized if you don't want to re-do your console (Big project - just spent Sunday till 1am doing that!!!!!!!) & go with the CH-634 Alpine which has MP3 capability.
You will get cleaner sound from a better head unit also however.

[donwon]

Sorry D'Ecosse. one more question. I was looking at the CDA7998, looks to be the only one with orange/amber color backlighting. Know of any others?

[D'Ecosse]

I'm not sure - However, what I did however was to remove the red filter from the clock & climate control display panels & now the LCD's are a pretty blue colour, more closely matching most modern head units. Of course the main instrument panel is still orange - I'll tackle that another time!
Are you going to start with a new blank console (from SOS or Dali) or modify the original? Doing it yourself or having it done? Might be able to give you some pointers on how we did mine.

I got the Sony MEX-5DI - http://sm.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-k6N8zBhCAWs/ProdView.asp?s=45&c=3&g=62700&I=158MEX5DI&o=m&a=0&cc=01&avf=N

[poet_x]

just a couple things, and then I'll be on my way...

1) anyone have any pictures of aftermarket audio installs in an NSX? Anything from new speakers to reworked dashes would be great to see.

2) I believe Blaupunkt has released a revolutionary new subwoofer designed for extremely tight locations. It looks a bit like a flying saucer. Blaupunkt doesn't have any info that I can find on their website, but I know I have an article on it back at home. I'll check it out tonight and post whatever I can find out. All I know is that it would fit in a door (with some modification to widen the holes) or under a seat. I believe it comes in 10" and 12" variations. I'll post more when I find more info...

[Mikey Rudamann]

Here are some pictures of my custom cut dash board for my MP3 Premier Head unit and custom cut door panels for my MB Quart tweeters.

[Mikey Rudamann]

Tweeters

[poet_x]

clean install. good job!


About the Blaupunkt subs I mentioned in a previous post, here is a picture, as well as some information. These might be a great solution to those NSX owners seeking a bit more thump without sacrificing extra space...

http://www.gspr.com/blau/images/odwp1200s_suboofer_75.jpg


Blaupunkt has introduced the ODw1200T, a full power 12-inch subwoofer with a mounting depth of 2 inches and a weight of just 4 pounds. The second generation of the company's "Saucer Subwoofer" technology, it features the company's revolutionary Aluminum-skin and foam-core diaphragm, a new, powerful Neodymium magnet and lightweight plastic basket.

Pricing is around $300-$350 per sub, retail.

Specs on a 12" model:

Mounting Debth 2 1/4 inch
Frequency Response: 45-160hz +/- 2dB
Maximum SPL: 120.0 dB
Xmax: 7.6mm
Sensitivity: 86.9dB with 2.83 volts
Recommended eclosure size is .5 - 1.5 cubic feet, either sealed or ported.


I hope this helps you guys out who are looking for a space-efficient solution...

[Attitude Adjuster]

Who sells these subs?

TIA,

[poet_x]

blaupunkt.


www.blaupunkt.com

[Attitude Adjuster]

Originally posted by poet_x
blaupunkt.


www.blaupunkt.com

Blaupunkt makes them..... Who sells them? Dealer?

[The DON]

Anybody knows the volume of the oem sub? You think this 10" Blaupunkt can be custom fitted to the oem sub box with good result?

[D'Ecosse]

Some pics of the new Sony MEX-5DI - had to rush the final stages: if you look closely some minor surface imperfections on the glass resin fill. (modified the stock console)
It was getting late - will pull it again & re-finish to make it perfect!

[D'Ecosse]

Another (with flash) ....

[D'Ecosse]

One more with different graphic display .......

[Ojas]

Originally posted by Attitude Adjuster
Who sells them? Dealer? Blaupunkt is a very common brand, available at many car audio shops. Even if they don't stock this exact Blaupunkt model, they should be able to order it (assuming these speakers are now available).

Just look on Blaupunkt's site for the dealer locator (http://direct.where2getit.com/blaupunkt/).

[donwon]

Nice install jobs everyone. D'Ecosse your bluish console lights look fantastic. I like how the four little lights of headunit match perfectly. Excellent finish on console too.

[K2]

Originally posted by donwon
I am thinking of upgrading my sound system but I do not want to put a sub box in the passenger footwell. I was thinking of replacing the 6.5's in the door and keeping factory sub. Anyone know if this will work? Also, any suggestions on 6.5's that are good on the lower end? Thanks in advance.

Donwon,

wanted to give you my 2 cents of input.

I am a huge audio fanatic. Some of the San Diego NSXer's have heard my system in my Explorer and my NSX.

My original intention was to rip out the stock system and put a whole new system. However, after I had the deck replaced with Alpine 7998, my installer(cliff), who only works on factory sponsor systems and very high-end system. Some of his work can be seen in many of the audio magazines. His recomenndation(I agreed with him) was not to put a sub in passender side. He told me that the passenger would feel too much punch and problay suffer headaches and it would be hard to balance the sound.

As for the facotry speakers. they are actually not to bad. after the new deck, system sounds so, so , much better. The Alpine unit has controls to increase your base. It has a time corection, which would bring even balance and increase the base to the driver side to get the "thump" you like.

Before you go on and spend lots of money, try the deck first. If you are still not happy with the results, then replace the side speakers. Remember, the factory speakers are good, so if you want a better sounding speakers. you need to spend about $2000 for speakers and amp. This is Cliff said. What ever you do, make sure you get a high-end installer to work on your car. Its so important.

I had spent about $5000 on my integra and about $3500 on my explorer. I had many experience in this. If you have futher questions, You can pm me and I'll give you my office number to chat.

Good luck.

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by K2
As for the facotry speakers. they are actually not to bad. .. Remember, the factory speakers are good, ......

One man's opinion - They're mediocre and frankly the reliability problems alone make them worth replacing.

so if you want a better sounding speakers. you need to spend about $2000 for speakers and amp.

You can spend a quarter of that & still get a decent quality pair of 6.5" components and amplifier that will out-perform the stock units (albeit not including install) - you simply cannot get the same performance from the tiny midrange bose speaker that you can from a 6.5" plus seperate tweeter.

[mikescg]

check out JL audio, i had 2 x 6in subs installed in passenger footwell and lost very little space, i also went with a set of JL audio seperates in each door and the depth and clarity of sound is amazing, i used Nakamichi for the rest of the components, 6 disc in dash head unit and 3 x 800 amps, i was going for power along with clarity, i managed to get great bass without the annoying thump that can sometime be associated with it. The whole setup was kinda pricey, but i firmly believe that you get what you pay for.

[pok8rok8]

question to D'ecosse......how did you get the white or blue display for the fan blower clock etc......isnt it amber...?? wanna show me your trick?

Mike:D

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by pok8rok8
question to D'ecosse......how did you get the white or blue display for the fan blower clock etc......isnt it amber...?? wanna show me your trick?

Mike:D

It's blue - the red/amber colour is because of a filter screen in front of the lcd display in the modules.
You have to remove the center console of course to get to the climate control unit, but once you have got that far it's pretty easy. The clock is much more accessible as it just pops out as the first step in removing console anyway - but you wouldn't want to do one w/o the other.
Once you have the modules out, remove the front panels to get access to the colour filters you will see inside the front screen. The climate control one is easy as it just peels off; the clock is a little more work as it is held on by what is like about 6 plastic rivets - just dremel these off carefully until you can pop off the filter. I think to get to the one on the clock you have to renove the lcd display from the front panel - don't remember exactly but its pretty intuitive once you're in there.
Keep them in case you decide to put it back one day - simple to reverse also.

[pok8rok8]

Originally posted by D'Ecosse
It's blue - the red/amber colour is because of a filter screen in front of the lcd display in the modules.
You have to remove the center console of course to get to the climate control unit, but once you have got that far it's pretty easy. The clock is much more accessible as it just pops out as the first step in removing console anyway - but you wouldn't want to do one w/o the other.
Once you have the modules out, remove the front panels to get access to the colour filters you will see inside the front screen. The climate control one is easy as it just peels off; the clock is a little more work as it is held on by what is like about 6 plastic rivets - just dremel these off carefully until you can pop off the filter. I think to get to the one on the clock you have to renove the lcd display from the front panel - don't remember exactly but its pretty intuitive once you're in there.
Keep them in case you decide to put it back one day - simple to reverse also.

Thanks man....i will do that....hope things workout

Mike

ps is it brighter or better?

[D'Ecosse]

Its all personal taste really - I love the new look & it matches the modern decks - for stock head I would probably keep it orange. It is brighter but still dims with the other dash lights when the parking lights are on at night.
I haven't pulled the radio apart though - its possibly also the same(?)
You can't really go wrong - just be careful after you open it up - everything unscrews or unplugs via a connector to get access, no de-soldering or anything so difficult to damage. Fun little project!
Tip - take your clock out since its easy to do & open it up to get an idea of what you're looking at - you can always just re-assemble it w/o removing the filter screen until you're ready to pull the console to do the Climate Control unit.
Incidentally the display is still protected as there is an outside thicker clear screen that remains intact.

p.s. If you want to get really creative you could play with some different colour films to get a variety of colours & custom match it exactly to your head unit! - they'd be easy to apply.
Mine could maybe use a little purple tinge! http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/8/pain.gif

[K2]

Originally posted by D'Ecosse
One man's opinion - They're mediocre and frankly the reliability problems alone make them worth replacing.



You can spend a quarter of that & still get a decent quality pair of 6.5" components and amplifier that will out-perform the stock units (albeit not including install) - you simply cannot get the same performance from the tiny midrange bose speaker that you can from a 6.5" plus seperate tweeter.

D'Ecosse,

I agree with you on the deck. I think it sucks. however, the speakers are not as bad as you think. I was able to get much richer and cleanner sound out of the stock speakers. Maybe your 93 had different specs or had more wear and tear.

I believe the processor in the deck make a huge difference. I shopped many installers and spoke to many factory reps. (I used to sell stereos in college). and many of them agreed. You should check the specs on the factory vs. other top makers. You'll be suprised.

All I am saying is that start with the deck and go from there. I've seen many hack jobs and its scary to look at. Most of the top installers will be critacal and opinionated about the sound in the car. Its a hard car to balance.

If you value your car, then don't take short cuts. Seek out the top installers in your area and consult with them, before doing anything.

AS for only spending 1/4 of the price to get a better sound. Hmmm. Lets see the Boston pro's that I wanted to install($600) was not going to sound too much better. I know this, because I was there when the installer hooked it up. You also had to run a decent amp, which is going to run you about $400, plus wiring and labor. I say its goign to be at least$1300 to $1500 job. Remember, I am a sound enthuist. But, wouldn't you want to put in a great system in your NSX vs. avg. system?

[D'Ecosse]

I think you're maybe getting a little hung-up on my use of the word mediocre - that is not derisory, although often interpreted to be.
Mediocre - of moderate quality, value, ability, or performance : ORDINARY, SO-SO
This does not mean it's bad, just nothing special: middle- of- the- road.
But, wouldn't you want to put in a great system in your NSX vs. avg. system?
That's what confuses me about your comments - you are going from extreme of ordinary, very average sounding stock system to comparing it with Boston Pro! & what I am saying is that the stock system is indeed a very average system & can be improved upon w/o spending $2K
I stand behind my $500 ticket for door speakers & amp only (remember I also qualified without install) - you can easily get a better sounding system - you can buy excellent quality components as mentioned in my original post above - I'm not talking out & out audio-phile competition grade here, just something significantly better than the Bose.

Focal 165V Slim Polyglass retail $400 can be had for $230
or step up a little to
FOCAL 165K2 Poly Kevlar retail $653 can be had for $320

MB Quart PSD-216 6.5 retail $580 can be had for $230

JL Audio Model: XR650-CS retail $400 can be had for $200

Infinity Perect Kappa 6.1 retail $500 can be had for $220

There are endless amplifiers in the $250 range which will give decent outpout to drive speakers as referenced above which I won't even begin to list.
Hifonics Zeus has a fine range of amps in this price range.

When it comes right down to it, however, beauty is in the eye (or ear in this case!) of the beholder - it is pointless you or I debating, K2 or recommending standard equipment against any of the alternatives suggested above - we can only give our personal opinions which are only useful as a starting point. Bottom line is that you need to listen to alternatives directly & decide what works for you. The type of music you listen to plays a bit part in your selection & what may work for one genre may be horrible for another.

[donwon]

k2,

I understand what you are saying. I was (am) looking into the 7998, however, that head unit requires an external amp. So either way, would need to get the amp. so i figure upgrade while im at it. Thanks for your reply.

[K2]

Originally posted by donwon
k2,

I understand what you are saying. I was (am) looking into the 7998, however, that head unit requires an external amp. So either way, would need to get the amp. so i figure upgrade while im at it. Thanks for your reply.


Donwon,

Alpine CDA7998 is a great unit. Yes, its a tuner and need a amp. However, your stock speakers has built in amp. I went with this deck, because it has a similar processor as my old deck in my integra(Alpine 7909 one of the best for a long time, for old timers)

All I am running is the 7998 and the stock speakers. No amp.

Many of the San Diego and few Orange County NSXer's were blown away by the sound. At least that what they said at that time.

However, you twick your system is up to you. I just wanted to give you some info, before you spend mucho $$$'s.

I've heard few NSX with upgrade stereo system's. Kind of what D'Ecosse described. I was not too impressed. Some them also heard mine and thought there were not too much noticeable differences. The sound you get for $500 upgrade might not be noticeable for you. The biggest issue is the imaging in the car. NSX is not a easy car to balance the imaging.

I happen to stumble onto this setup. Who know, you might find a different setup that will be better.

Good luck

[K2]

Originally posted by D'Ecosse
I think you're maybe getting a little hung-up on my use of the word mediocre - that is not derisory, although often interpreted to be.
Mediocre - of moderate quality, value, ability, or performance : ORDINARY, SO-SO
This does not mean it's bad, just nothing special: middle- of- the- road.

That's what confuses me about your comments - you are going from extreme of ordinary, very average sounding stock system to comparing it with Boston Pro! & what I am saying is that the stock system is indeed a very average system & can be improved upon w/o spending $2K
I stand behind my $500 ticket for door speakers & amp only (remember I also qualified without install) - you can easily get a better sounding system - you can buy excellent quality components as mentioned in my original post above - I'm not talking out & out audio-phile competition grade here, just something significantly better than the Bose.

Focal 165V Slim Polyglass retail $400 can be had for $230
or step up a little to
FOCAL 165K2 Poly Kevlar retail $653 can be had for $320

MB Quart PSD-216 6.5 retail $580 can be had for $230

JL Audio Model: XR650-CS retail $400 can be had for $200

Infinity Perect Kappa 6.1 retail $500 can be had for $220

There are endless amplifiers in the $250 range which will give decent outpout to drive speakers as referenced above which I won't even begin to list.
Hifonics Zeus has a fine range of amps in this price range.

When it comes right down to it, however, beauty is in the eye (or ear in this case!) of the beholder - it is pointless you or I debating, K2 or recommending standard equipment against any of the alternatives suggested above - we can only give our personal opinions which are only useful as a starting point. Bottom line is that you need to listen to alternatives directly & decide what works for you. The type of music you listen to plays a bit part in your selection & what may work for one genre may be horrible for another.


D'Ecosse,

Your right, The beauty is in the eye of a beholder. in this case its the ear.

First, I want to let you that I am not a huge fan of Bose. When my stock speakers blows out, i will replace it with after market speakers.

Yes, I have heard other NSX's with upgraded stereo systems. I was not too impressed. maybe it was not istalled right. Who knows. Those with upgraded system's have heard my stock speakers w/ Alpine CDA7998, were blown away. Many of the San Diego NSXer's said the same, Or at least that what they said that day.

As for your idea of $500 system is not to accurate. Understand the quaityof speakers at that price levelis not too much different than the stock Bose(at least for my 99NSX). And to run avg. amp., would not be great idea on Alpine CDA7998. Understand this deck is one of the better decks in the market today. You would lose clarity if you run this deck to a avg. amp., with a avg. built-in crossover. You have to consider at least $300 to $500 in instalation alone.

I believe Donwon is trying to run Alpine CDA7998.

I am a big fan of music, whether its R&b or rap, I like it to be clean.

D'Ecosse, I don't think we are having a pointless debate. I respect your opinion. Everyone is entitled to it. Who knows, I may learn something for you or others. I am have to have learned about the new B&P's sub. Isn't that what this forum is about? to be better informed.

I hope to run into you at this year's NSXPO in No. Cal. Then you can hear my point and I can hear yours.


Good debating w/you.

[NSXpnsv]

A couple of questions for you guys who replaced the factory stereo head unit. Did replacing the unit have any effect on your security/alarm system? I noticed in the schematic for the stereo system that the security control unit actually goes through the stereo to ground. I'm guessing that it would have no effect but I'm curious if you have to provide a ground.
Other question: How did you hook up both antennas to the aftermarket head units. I'd like to retain the power antenna and the rear window antenna. Did the unit come with dual antenna leads?

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by NSXpnsv
Other question: How did you hook up both antennas to the aftermarket head units. I'd like to retain the power antenna and the rear window antenna. Did the unit come with dual antenna leads?

They tee long before they get to the head - only one plug into the stock (or after-market) head.

Edit - this is incorrect - there are separate inputs to the stock head - SORRY!

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by K2
D'Ecosse, I don't think we are having a pointless debate. I respect your opinion. Everyone is entitled to it. Who knows, I may learn something for you or others. I am have to have learned about the new B&P's sub. Isn't that what this forum is about? to be better informed. ...
Good debating w/you.
Sorry if I misled - I didn't mean pointless in the sense of the interactive debate - I meant it in the sense that we all have our own persepctive on what sounds good and there is no right or wrong. Like you, other opinions are always welcome to me.

[NSXpnsv]

Originally posted by D'Ecosse
They tee long before they get to the head - only one plug into the stock (or after-market) head.
I appreciate the info (I have a 93 as well) but on page 23-234 of the '91 manual (on this web site) it shows two separate leads plugging into two separate ports. One is male and one is female so you don't mix them up. I'll take your word for it though if you've done it. Maybe they changed it by '93?
Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi? Is he for real or some kind of joke? He told me not to duplicate posts because I posted this same question in the techincal section.
Oh, and let it go with K2. If he likes stock speakers, more power to him.
One last question: where can those stereo items "be had" for the lower prices??

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by NSXpnsv
I appreciate the info (I have a 93 as well) but on page 23-234 of the '91 manual (on this web site) it shows two separate leads plugging into two separate ports. One is male and one is female so you don't mix them up.
Thats what I get for thinking!!!! .... I had recalled (it seems incorrectly) that I had seen something about them teeing back at the rear 1/4 - when I now look at the schematics there are indeed separate input feeds to the head. When I replaced my head, I assumed the female one was for the phone - sorry I should have checked rather than speculate (or recall from failing memory!)
The mast antenna cable comes in from the drivers side of the bulhead, while the window antenna lead comes in from the passenger side of the bulkhead: they run as separate cables down the center console to the head unit.
You typically won't find that extra connector on an after market head.

Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi? Is he for real or some kind of joke? He told me not to duplicate posts because I posted this same question in the techincal section.

The forums nazi is the alter-ego of a quite informed senior poster on this board - his advice is brusque (in the style of the Seinfeld character) but usually accurate. It is a general rule of etiquette not to multiple post on NSX-Prime. He also advocates using the search engine (very powerful) to get immediate answers to questions most likely asked previously.
One last question: where can those stereo items "be had" for the lower prices??
E-bay - http://pages.ebay.com/catindex/catcaraudio.html
The majority of the sellers here are web-based businesses & quite reputable - stick with the ones that have high numbers of positive feedback ratings. I used IndoAudio (http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=15268997) recently, great prices & prompt service/shipment.
There are literally thousands here, so narrow by using the search for the product you are looking for.
The Zeb (http://www.thezeb.com) also has good prices.

[nsxxtreme]

Oh, and by the way who the heck is this Forum Nazi? He was politely letting you know their was already a post with the same subject matter.

I find the factory stereo does just fine for running an aftermarket stereo system.

I bought a set of Image dynamic mids that were able to mount the tweeter in the middle like a coax. So I did not need make custom mounts. They were also 2 ohms so I was able to extract more power out of my amplifier.

Best of luck the aftermarket stereos in the NSX are starting to look nicer. I have yet to find one though that actually looks like it belongs their.

[RacerX-21]

I’m in the process of an install using the stock stereo and CD, 4-channell amp a good sub in the fool well and (2) good 5-1/4 in the doors with separate tweeters.

Question is- what’s the difference between high and low inputs on my amp? Low is RCA… I don’t have factory RCA on my stereo. If I use high what ground do I use, and what is done with all of the factory negative speaker outputs?

Thanks

[D'Ecosse]

K2 will be crushed that you are replacing the speakers rather than the head unit ;)

See this thread (http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22306) for a good tip on integrating your factory harness into an aftermarket set-up with RCA's to the amps.
What you want to do is run the amp with one channel each to the front (door) speakers & bridge the other two channels to run the sub. You could actually just use the left & right channels from the head, ignoring the "sub" outputs, then use an rca "Y" - splitter female to two male ( http://www.millionbuy.com/adbacy2q.html ) at the amp to feed the 4 channel inputs. (You'll need two splitters)
To wire the head output to the RCA cable adapter, the centre core of the wire goes to the "+" signal, while the outside shield goes to the corresponding "-" . Just use a short pigtail adapter at the head (RCA females) then you can use std. RCA (male-male)cable pair of the appropriate length to run to your amp location. (in the pic shown by kpond in the above referenced thread, he has used male RCA adapters because he has taken his cable a very short distance directly to his amp in his footwell location). I haven't seen a direct available RCA adapter - you just need to get a cable with female RCA ends & cut off about 6" plus the connectors & splice them to to the output wires from the head adapter plug. (You could of course splice your long RCA's directly to the head adapter output wires, instead of the pigtail connectors on there first - you can also run a 4 channel rca & use the "sub" outputs then you won't have to use splitters at the amp - my recommendation to go method 1 but your own personal choice)
The high & low refers to frequency response - will be on high for channels for the doors & low for the sub, then you can usually "trim" the cut-off frequencies for each to get an appropriate frequency range into each speaker. i.e. you cut out the low-end bass from going to the doors & the mid & high frequencies from going to the sub.
What kind of amp are you using? If you reference the model I can look it up & get a better idea of the inputs .......
Incidentally, you can easily fit 6 1/2's into the doors to give you fuller mid range response in that area.

[RacerX-21]

Thanks for the fast response! I have seen your posts and have duplicated many of your suggestions. I have both adaptor harnesses, and intended to fab a harness similar to your purple RCA picture.

I wasn’t sure if he amp (Adiobahn) wanted to see all four channels from the stereo, or if two would be the same.

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by RacerX-21
I have both adaptor harnesses, and intended to fab a harness similar to your purple RCA picture.
Credit where due - I provided the links for the harness parts but that pic is result of kpond's work, not mine - make sure you wire the rca's up to the right connector though! http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/8/pain.gif

[SNDSOUL]

IASCA SOUND QUALITY WINNER. K2, the NSX has an excellent sound stage. I use the Eclipse AV8132(Upgraded since pic was taken),Eclipse PA 5532 amp, Eclipse 8" sub(pass footwell), Xtant 6.5 mids, Morel tweets. Its all about having the right equipment, installed properly. Knowing is half the battle;)

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=15636

[jlindy]

Can anyone verify that removing the red filter in the head unit works the same as the climate control and clock?

[NSX Twin Turbo]

2 Din Setup fiberglass, custom paint, doors with 6.5 midbass drivers (infinity) with turbo timer, boost controller, valentine 1 display. hopefully attachement works.
Tony

[NSX Twin Turbo]

attached

[GQ NSX]

OMFG THAT IS AWESOME! What kind of deck/ dvd player is that?

[D'Ecosse]

Originally posted by jlindy
Can anyone verify that removing the red filter in the head unit works the same as the climate control and clock?
Actually, not quite - on the stock head unit, when you remove the filter, it really exposes a large lcd panel that is quite un-attractive behind the clear face screen (on the clock & AC this is not noticable - I think their screens are more smokey than clear - also there are much larger "open" fields on the head's panel which are exposed, so it needs some "masking" )
We tried to use a blue filter screen (made from one of those binder-divider sheets from Office-Max) on all three to match the APEXi - AVC-R BOOST CONTROLLER but the quality of that film is poor & irregular so the net result was, although the colour blue was really nice, the digits lost definition - looked fuzzy. So, the principle is there - just need to find a better filter medium. Maybe a craft shop would have some better choices.
Anyone have some real-world experiences with where to resource a high-quality coloured plastic film?

Oh - to remove the red film in the head unit - a little more complex - start by following the instructions
Here, (courtesy of Science Of Speed) (http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/DIYs/diy_01_stereoknob/default.asp) up to step 9 - then some clarification is needed: the cassette unit needs to be removed in order to get to the "ribbon cords clipped in with the white connectors" (impossible to get to w/o removing the cassette module!); so after you remove the cassete module (pretty obvious, a few screws) then you look at the white connectors on the end of the orange ribbons & that is not immediately obvious how they are removed: however, there is a sleeve component to the white connector - slide that towards the top of the connector - the sleeve is like a lock and when loose, the orange ribbon just slips out (you may have to pull it - don't be afraid as long as you have loosened the sleeve to the unlocked position); repeat for the other ribbon. Now you have the face off, it again should be obvious how to get access to the front of the LCD panel & remove the red film.
Re-assemble in reverse order, remember to re-lock the riibbon connectors after you re-insert the cables!

[NSX Twin Turbo]

STOCKTONSX
I have the Panasonic CY-VMD900U for CD/DVD/AMFM Radio, HKS CAMP System video display, etc. The lower unit is the Kenwood Z828 CD/MP3 player. There are upgraded versions of both headunits on the streets. But I did all the fiberglass myself and took it to a paint shop for smoothing and painting.
Tony

NSX Twin Turbo

[GQ NSX]

Thanks for the prompt reply. It looks really good and extremely professional!

ravi

[ajnsx]

the door pods are very nice too, hand fabricated or bought?

[NSX Twin Turbo]

ajnsx,
yeah my door pods are hand fabricated...all work done here out of my garage. I used to work at a stereo shop before I joined the Navy (Submarine Force).
Tony

[NSX Twin Turbo]

attached

[NSX Twin Turbo]

attached

[ajnsx]

love your work, simple and classy............

[NSX Twin Turbo]

Thanks.....I try to stay simple and clean.

[furman187]

For those of you looking to change the color of your clock/climate/radio leds, I suggest looking for stage lighting gel sheets. These come in hundreds of colors, and should be available at any stage/theater production supply house. Even a well stocked music store will have some colors available. There is a sample book that "fans" out to show every color available, (similar to paint or countertop samples) that would be very helpful to test out the different colors in your car before buying a full sheet of the wrong color. The full sheets measure 20"x 24", and are inexpensive. Some stores may sell a smaller size square cut to fit a specific size light can, but would still be plenty enough material to recover the leds.

did a quick search, here is one manufacturer's available colors and price: http://www.prolightingsupplies.com/shop_showbook.php?sku=780015

hope info this helps out..

John (I've been on stage a time or two)
93 NSX Blk/Blk - For Sale (see "nsx's for sale" forum)