View Full Version : Quick Speaker Replacement Question
I am in process to replace the Bose amps and speakers. From the Service manuals, it looks like I can pick up the "pre-outs" from the stock head unit. Given this, I would assume that I will not need any line-out converter. Is that correct?
I did a search and found references to some install that were using the line converters. My assumption is that these line converters are used when you have a good speaker-level output and you want to step that down to a pre-amp out levels. Since my Bose amps are shot, my only choice is the pre-amp level outs.
Does that sound right?
D'Ecosse
09-02-2003, 11:54
That is correct kpond - I originally had exact set-up previously into MTX amp like one you are considering - use the gain control on the amp to adjust the level appropriately. My system had the wires cut & spliced before the plug at the head end - I believe you can may be able to find a Honda/Acura adapter to save that hassle: you may not find it listed specifically for the NSX, but check out some of the other models & you may find the correct harness.
Edit: OK - found it & only $5!! http://www.millionbuy.com/a-ihwh804.html
Now you just need to splice some RCA adapters onto these speaker signal wires - you could run the power from here also, but I would recommend you use a heavier gauge wire direct from the battery.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf - go to page 1220 for a quick reference to the wire colour/pin ID's for each channel.
4Chin500
09-04-2003, 20:39
I'm not sure the cable shown in this URL is the correct gender to accomplish what needs to be done. A male connector is needed to plug into the back of the head unit to provide the low level left, right, and sub signal wires to attach the RCA connectors to. Ideally you would mate a male cable connector to the female cable shown in the picture to create a splice cable. In this way you could easily splice between the factory head unit and the car's wiring harness, breaking out the signals you need. Unfortunately I do not know where to locate a suitable male connector...short of finding a salvage NSX and cutting out a portion of the original harness.
I know where there is a "salvaged NSX" locate. A junk-yard name "Import Junk-yard" located in San Diego close to Chula Vista/National City has a red one. That car still has ton of stuff. How do I know that? (That car was my last NSX, crashed about eight months ago.)
D'Ecosse
09-04-2003, 21:35
Originally posted by 4Chin500
I'm not sure the cable shown in this URL is the correct gender to accomplish what needs to be done. A male connector is needed to plug into the back of the head unit to provide the low level left, right, and sub signal wires to attach the RCA connectors to. .....
OOPS! sorry, should have been http://www.millionbuy.com/aihwh805.html which is the male plug to fit into the radio - the 804 adapts to the harness plug.
Actually, the best plan is to buy the 804 & the 805 - then you can plug the 804 into the factory plug, connect the power wires of the 804 (ignore the signal wires of the 804) to those of the 805 & the signal wires of the 805 to the RCA's. Then the 805 plugs into the head. This way, you will have a harness that will not involve any cutting of the stock factory harness.
Hope that makes sense!
D'Ecosse,
Thanks for all of your input (and pictures). You've already done exactly what I'm in process to do. I shopped for components that has a relatively small crossover to mitigate the fitment issues that you dealt with. I found that the MB Q's had a small circuit board that would fit in the stock enclosure... as long as I removed the small plastic case surrounding it.
I ordered the 804 and 805 connectors per your links (thanks). I mounted the speakers in the MDF and tested them with my home (garage) receiver. I'm not sure I really like the sound so I'm thinking of putting in a forward facing 1" port. There's a self-professed speaker design guru at work so I am going to consult him tomorrow.
Anyway, I appreciate your assistance.
D'Ecosse
09-08-2003, 00:26
kpond, glad I could help so far
I wouldn't base too much on how the speakers sound in open environment in your garage - I think if you install them in the doors (please use the dynamat, worth the $$$) you will find the imaging with the cabin closed up to be quite different - what are you doing about locating the tweeters? I know people who have mounted them on the baffle next to the mid-range, but again your imaging will suffer - it really depends how much you value your stock door panels & if you're prepared to cut them. The location where mine are is about the only place they will go - if I recall the MB's are a bit smaller & possibly you could surface mount them on the side-window-front-corner-triangle-trim-piece (or whatever it is called!)
Since the speaker enclosures are sealed, I'm not sure the influence of the speaker's sonic changes when located in the door. I at least want to hear what my buddy says about porting them. I'll let you know what I decide.
By the way, what did you do for speaker wire? Did you run new wires into the door? I hooked up the stock Bose plug such that the former power and ground wire (16 gauge at least) are now running to the speaker. I didn't thing that the pre-amp in wires in the door were of sufficient size to use. Now I have to intercept the connector up under the dash so I can tioe in the speaker wires from the amp. Unfortunately, to get at this connector, you MUST remove the dash. Oh well, I've wanted to replace the small dash trim piece that cracks near the center for a long time.
Regadring the tweeters, yes I can fit them in that small triangle piece. Here's a terrible picture. Basically, they are mounter on an angled circle that tilts them directly toward the listener.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/kpond/NSX/Tweeter.JPG
D'Ecosse
09-08-2003, 01:47
Did you use the stock rear Bose shells? I cut the rear off mine behind the speaker so they are ported into entire door cavity effectively.
The tweeters should be great up there - mine are quite a bit larger again, so didn't have that option.
Yes, I ran speaker wire - it is a bit of a mother but possible to pull it down through the stock harness into the door - the only awkward part is just that one rubber sleeve section between the door & the bulkead. I used a "fish" (in the form of some solid 12 ga copper wire folded over at end) to go from inside the door back up towards the bulkhead - it was easier to disconnect the "grommet" style fitting at each end before fishing; I had a hard time pulling the wire back through however because there isn't much space - so instead of traditional method of looping through the end of the "fish" I cut off the loop & soldered both of the speaker wires together to the end of the copper wire - this made for minimal bulk to pull back down through. The speaker wires come back over under the dash towards the head unit unit then in my case back down the centre console over the firewall & out to the trunk - you will have much less distance to run of course.
The problem with using the power wiring to the doors is that it is difficult to see from the wiring diagram where to intersect it along the routing - the grounds to both door amps are tied together & the supply is also commoned with the footwell unit & they are fed from the power amp relay. It doesn't seem possible to determine from the schematic where the ties takes places.
I think I used 12, may have been 14 ga - figure it from the pic!
D'Ecosse,
Ohhhh, you cut the backs off. Mine are still on. OK, so I think my "enclosure" is really too small to be effective. I will either port it to the front or cut the back off - like what you did. I'm leaning that way. I will definitely use the dynamat.
In terms of finding the connectors, it is REALLY EASY with the shop manual - the ETM one, that is. This manual tells you where all of the connectors are and even has a whole section of pictures showing their location.
D'Ecosse
09-08-2003, 03:31
I have the helms shop manual - guess I just wasn't looking in the right place. Don't let me put you off doing the "real" speaker wire - it wasn't trivial but obviously its do-able - I messed with the speaker wire looped around the pull wire for the longest time then also tried a long parallel/overlapped taped approach on the pull wire, but both were way too bulky - soldering made it really much easier & then I just cut it off after it came through! If you go straight to this method it will save a lot of agony
Yes, when you think about it, even the stock enclosures have a port for the puny bose speakers, but its on the front half of the shell, so you lose that when you mount the mdf plate - that is no volume at all to let those 6.5" speakers work. I just sliced off the very back face of the circular recess.
D'Ecosse,
Thanks for the tip on the harness connectors. I bought both the male and female and made up a harness with the pre-outs to a standard (if you consider purple standard) RCA out. The longer wire is the "trigger on" wire for the amp.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/kpond/NSX/HarnessPlug.JPG
D'Ecosse
09-21-2003, 04:49
Beautiful job K - this one belongs in the FAQ!
D'Ecosse,
Thanks for the compliment - but look again at the harness! Thankfully, I did a trial hook-up and got absolutely NOTHING out of the speakers. I pulled this harness back out (very easy as I still had the car apart) and took a closer look. Do you notice which end of the harness I put the RCA connectors on?? Hahahahahaha, I had them on the wrong side. Instead of picking up the pre-amp outs as they come out of the head unit, I was tring to get them from the other side. What a bonehead! Oh well, it was easy enough to switch. I have plenty of heat shrink and solder!
D'Ecosse
09-22-2003, 02:36
You'll think I'm being pig-headed, but actually I did think it was wrong end - was working off memory so didn't comment, thought I must be wrong because I was confident you would have it right! http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/8/pain.gif
Did something dumb myself today - installed a flux capacitor (that's what the missus calls it! - actually a smoothing 1F cap for the amp power supply - also got a nice new yellow top Optima!!!!! http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/9/biggthum.gif); after I put it all back together got nadda out of the amp on the left channel - pulled it all out thinking I must've broken a wire or something - messed with it for a good 30 mins before I saw I had moved a switch by accident - doooohhhh!!!!
These things just make us mere mortals ....
So I'm convinced it sounds better after spending $300 ....... I'd have to be wouldn't I? (well it needed new battery anyway ...seriously I do think the bass is much stronger with the combo of both)
Here's a quick pick of the amp in its place within the former subwoofer enclosure. The height of the amp at its tallest point is the same as the original box. I'm going to put a couple of strips of foam tape at the tall point before placing the aluminum floor plate on to cover everything up.
I fired the system up tonight (after fixing the connector mentioned above, and it sounds absolutely great. My assessment is that it is MUCH better than stock. Very clean sound, very punchy mid-bass. VERY crisp highs. A sub will definitely be an improvement but my goal was to be significantly better than stock. I achieved that and at a total cost of less than $400. I would highly recommend others to seriously consider this as an alternative to pouring money into Bose replacement components.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/kpond/NSX/amp_plcment.JPG
D'Ecosse
09-22-2003, 02:55
Excellent job - glad the results are justified which is what is most important - I remember getting pooh-poohed a few months ago when I suggested that a decent alternative that would offer improvement over stock could be done for ~$500 - thanks for validating that!!!! (with $100 to spare even .....)
Yes, a sub can add more punch at the lower end than what you currently have - however people need to realize what the starting set-up is - to think you can get decent bass from a 3" speaker is a joke, so I am in no doubt your 6 1/2"'s are a vast improvement, even w/o a sub. I can guarantee I can turn my sub off & it will absolutely blow the doors off a stock system leaving no-one in doubt there is much greater range than the piddly Bose.
You going to be at 'xpo? would like to see/hear in person.
D'Ecosse
09-22-2003, 16:15
Originally posted by kpond
I mounted the speakers in the MDF and tested them with my home (garage) receiver. I'm not sure I really like the sound ... There's a self-professed speaker design guru at work so I am going to consult him tomorrow....
Incidentally, kpond - what did your expert say about the "enclosure" design (venting the rear)? I'm curious ....
Also I'm assuming it made a big diffference once they were installed compared to the initial experience in the garage?
nsxparts.com
09-22-2003, 16:57
I bet that amp will keep your feet warm in the winter!
D'Ecosse
09-22-2003, 21:37
Originally posted by nsxparts.com
I bet that amp will keep your feet warm in the winter!
Actually thats one thing that may concern if its running at high output - especially wrapped up under the carpet, there's probably little outlet for the heat - hadn't thought of that, it'll be interesting to see how that works out - I guess you'll still have the aluminum kick plate which will allow a little air between the amp & the carpet?
Well, my "expert" is a mechanical engineer with only a passion for audio and speaker design in particular. To achieve the most bass response and overall sound accuracy, I asked whether it was better to have a completely sealed but small enclosure (small air volume), ported to either the front or the back with a port diameter of virtually any size I choose, or a completely open design with the back open and the thought to utilize the entire door air volume. His answer - "I don't know."
Allegedly there is no right answer. Honestly, I was kind of hoping there was a right answer and then I would just do it! I also consulted the car stereo store where I bought the speakers (mid to high end stuff), and they were much more opinionated. They believed that the sealed approach was best. OK, so that's what I stayed with. Trust me, it sounds real good.
Regarding the issue of amplifier heat. Yes, I did think of that... and I have even thought of the potential need of a small fan. However, I really doubt it will be necessary. First, there is some dead space back behind the aluminum plate. So, there is som air volume that can help the amp to dissipate heat. Second, and probably a bigger factor, the amp is barely working at all even at moderate to loud levels. Let's face it, the cabin of the NSX is relatively small and it doesn't take that much power to drive this single pair of speakers.
I'll give some feedback after I've had a chance to live with it in the real world.
(NSX REY)
09-23-2003, 06:15
Kpond- Very nice work! Is the wire harness in the picture the one D’Eccosse suggested (1986-98 Honda/Acura Harness) HWH-805? I would like to do away with my Bose system as well, and would like to go the route you have. Please consider doing a step by step write up in the DIY or FAQ. Your knowledge of this modification would help others accomplish a similar task.
What series of MB Quart's did you go with, and what amp are you using? (Power output...)
(NSX REY),
Yes, order both the 804 and the 805 connector from www.millionbuy.com. They were very fast to ship - no problems. I would highly recommend the MTX amp that I purchased. I'm not at home, but I think I previously mentioned the model number. Perhaps it is BS, but each amp comes with an "as test" score card. They are rated at 50WPC at less than 1% distortion. The paper that came with mine (and I'm sure they are all virtually the same) said it measured at 74WPC at less .014% THD. The amp has a set of RCA in's AND a set a RCA out's. So, if you ever wanted to add another amp or otherwise tap into you line level input, it is easy. Another thing that I liked is that it turns on/off very quietly - no "pops". Best of all, it fits in the stock subwoofer enclosure.
Last night I installed the aluminum floor plate and I was once again convinced more than ever that heat will likely NOT be a problem. The aluminum floor plate is much closer to vertical than the amp is. The bottom almost touches the bottom edge of the amp, but I think there's 2" or more at the top. I think this will provide sufficient air space - especially at most reasonable listening volumes.
I'll consider a cohesive write-up when I've got some more time.
Originally posted by kpond
D'Ecosse,
Thanks for the tip on the harness connectors. I bought both the male and female and made up a harness with the pre-outs to a standard (if you consider purple standard) RCA out. The longer wire is the "trigger on" wire for the amp.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/kpond/NSX/HarnessPlug.JPG
I followed D'Ecosse's advice as well and got both connectors.
I'm going to have 3 RCA outs though since the amp I'm using, JL 300/4 has a seperate input for the subwoofer and it is fully adjustable as far as crossover points are concerned.
I think what I'll probaby do differently than your setup is use female connectors and make them as short as possible allowing me to run high quality male to male RCA cables from the harness to the amp. The amp is going to be located in the trunk.
What are your thoughts on this approach?
Originally posted by D'Ecosse
Now you just need to splice some RCA adapters onto these speaker signal wires - you could run the power from here also, but I would recommend you use a heavier gauge wire direct from the battery.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf - go to page 1220 for a quick reference to the wire colour/pin ID's for each channel.
Can someone clear this up for me please.....
The pin-out diagram on page 1220 of the online manual shows 2 sets of foot well outputs, one for the passenger's side and one for the driver's side. Now we all know there's no sub on the driver's side.
Looking at page 1216 of the manual which is the schematic these 2 pairs of signal wires (A7-A15 and A8-A16) (there's a typo in the manual by the way on page 1220, it shows two A6 terminals, the second one is obviously A8 as the schematic shows) ....anyway......both sets of signal wires go the bass amp in the passenger footwell. Which set do I use to send a signal to my new bass amp? My guess is that either set sends an identical mono signal but does anyone know for sure? Would it be safe to wire both outputs to one RCA cable effectively creating a "Y" adapter?
Thanks,
Hugh
D'Ecosse
12-08-2003, 21:23
Originally posted by Hugh
I followed D'Ecosse's advice as well and got both connectors.
I'm going to have 3 RCA outs though since the amp I'm using, JL 300/4 has a seperate input for the subwoofer and it is fully adjustable as far as crossover points are concerned.
I think what I'll probaby do differently than your setup is use female connectors and make them as short as possible allowing me to run high quality male to male RCA cables from the harness to the amp. The amp is going to be located in the trunk.
What are your thoughts on this approach?
That is exactly the difference - kpond used a male because he had a short run - use female adapters & a std RCA male/male cable to the trunk-
i.e Just use the door outputs A2/A10 & A1/A9, ignore the sub/center o/p's - run a left & right RCA cable (stereo pair) to the trunk & use a Y-Splitter on each channel at the amp to feed the sub channel inputs. (use both L & R for mono to the sub amp - don't worry about a third RCA at the head unit))
That does make sense assuming the head unit's main L and R outputs have full frequency response. I figured since there was that third sub output that perhaps the head unit had a built in crossover and the door outputs didn't provide low frequencies.
Although it does send a full frequency signal to the bass amp which then gets crossed over to the center channel tweeter.
Are you sure I'll get full frequency response from just the main Left and Right door outputs?
By the way, is there any way this thread can be moved over to the Car Stereo section where it really belongs? :)
D'Ecosse
12-09-2003, 02:03
That is exactly how mine was wired when I bought the car with the stock head & after-market amp, speakers & sub - the bass response was as expected so pretty sure full response is available. I think there are others who have implemented in the same manner.
I suspect (don't know absolutely) that the "other" two channels are really rear outputs from a generic bose platform; that would suggest also that they would each have full response too however (although one left & one right i.e. stereo pair - no fader control either though!) There is only one actual amplifier channel circuit in the footwell speaker box, and I believe the signals are summed - again supporting theory that these are perhaps left & right rear channels. Now if that is indeed the case, you would actually be losing part of the audio (since one channel would be completely missing) using the 3-channel approach (Of course you could run 4-ch but that I beleive is superfluous to the two channel split method suggested)
I'd love to see cct schematic of the head so I could see what's really going on.
I understand that many people wish to retain the stock head for cosmetic reasons (& also the fact that it generally isn't broken like the amp/speakers!!!), but you should be aware you can also realize a significant improvement in performance from the head unit in addition to the amp/speakers.
K2 on this board has actually only replaced the head, while retaining the stock amps/speakers & it sounds recognizably improved over stock. If you search you will find several testaments to that.
However, for cosmetic, budget or step-incremental process or whatever, still be assured you can still have a fine system utilizing the stock head per your plan.
Now that Science of Speed sells a replacement dash piece with a DIN cutout (and room for double DIN) It probably won't be long before the head unit gets replaced too. (I've been severely bitten by the mod monster).
I was looking at the owner's manual for the JL 300/4. When in Bi-amp mode you don't even need to use the Y connectors to the channel 3 and 4 inputs. The damn thing handles it all by itself. The low pass filter is selectable as are voltages so everything can be fine tuned for the right bass balance once it's all hooked up.
Since I'll be mounting the unit in the trunk, I figure I'll have them use the pink/white wire going to the antenna for remote amp turn on. No need to snake a live 12 volt wire the length of the car.
D'Ecosse
12-09-2003, 03:08
Originally posted by Hugh
Now that Science of Speed sells a replacement dash piece with a DIN cutout (and room for double DIN) It probably won't be long before the head unit gets replaced too.
I'm not sure if you are misunderstanding the SOS product definition or I'm misunderstanding your comment: however to clarify either way, the SOS replacement console has NO cut-out (pre-cut) for the head, whether single or double DIN. The pre-cut option is for the gear shift & e-brake slots & AC controller only & you have to still cut out your own head slot. The recommendation is that if you need double DIN (after-market) then purchase the ash-tray-delete model. (Pre-cut with ash-tray includes this cut-out also)
I was looking at the owner's manual for the JL 300/4. When in Bi-amp mode you don't even need to use the Y connectors to the channel 3 and 4 inputs. The damn thing handles it all by itself. The low pass filter is selectable as are voltages so everything can be fine tuned for the right bass balance once it's all hooked up..
Cool!!!!!!!!!!!
Since I'll be mounting the unit in the trunk, I figure I'll have them use the pink/white wire going to the antenna for remote amp turn on. No need to snake a live 12 volt wire the length of the car.
Smart thinking Batman - excellent idea! (although you still need to run your heavy-duty power wire for the amp from the battery direct)
Incidentally, on the power side - particularly with the stock head - beef up the ground to the head unit - there have been several reports of ground loop caused with this mode of wiring up after-market amp; take a direct ground wire from (local) chassis to the head & do same at the amp.
Originally posted by D'Ecosse
I'm not sure if you are misunderstanding the SOS product definition or I'm misunderstanding your comment: however to clarify either way, the SOS replacement console has NO cut-out (pre-cut) for the head, whether single or double DIN. The pre-cut option is for the gear shift & e-brake slots & AC controller only & you have to still cut out your own head slot. The recommendation is that if you need double DIN (after-market) then purchase the ash-tray-delete model. (Pre-cut with ash-tray includes this cut-out also)
My bad! It's been a few days since I visited their site and I forgot the entire radio area is solid. When I get around to replacing the head unit, a standard DIN will be all that I require. I want to keep the ashtray/lighter. There will probably be enough room for a DIN radio and a 1/2 DIN EQ or better yet a DBX type dynamic range expander. So many toys....so little room. :)
Good tip about beefing up the ground at the head unit. Thanks!
Originally posted by D'Ecosse
I'd love to see cct schematic of the head so I could see what's really going on.
What's really going on is that there are two identical pairs of stereo outputs. Because of the setup of the NSX the head unit simply lacks a fader control.
D'Ecosse,
Does the 805 or 805 comes with the RCA adapted to it. Or do I have to manually make my own rca adapter.
I just order it 805 & 804.
But now I just realize that kpond had to wired to rca cable to it.
Hope what I said is clear.
Thank you
Danny
I just completed making a harness from the 804 and 805 today. It's a fairly straightforward task. You need a soldering iron, rosin core solder, heat shrink tubing in various sizes and one of those "helping hands" devices from Radio Shack holds the ends of the wires together so you can use both hands to solder makes things a lot easier.
I took the additional step of shielding the wires going to the RCA connectors by wrapping them with aluminum foil then covering the entire length with heat shrink tubing. It came out great.
It probably won't be in the car that long though because I'm suffering from a very severe case of "mod fever" and just ordered the SoS center console which will be housing an Alpine CDA-7998 in the very near future.
SexyRed, the photos that kpond posted are of an incorrect installation. He attached the RCAs to the 804 on his first attempt.
They must be connected to the 805 which is the male end that connects to the head unit.
I'll post photos of my harness later today. It's 4:45 AM and I'm bushed!
Here it is in all of it's glory. I guess I should have taken photos at each step which would have made for a nice addition to the FAQ but if any of you want me to make you one I'll photograph each step so we can have detailed instructions. If you'd like one made contact me and we can make arrangements. I'll do it for free, but you have to send me the parts. :)
http://www.sophisticata.com/images/nsxharness.jpg
menuserve
08-24-2005, 16:26
first off.. you guys have INCREDIBLE knowledge and the rest of us... at least I am learning a ton... thank you for that!
i'd really like to see a step by step instruction for wiring up an amp and speakers... is that too much to ask? for those of us that have never done it before would like to see step by step the wiring... including power wiring... and then placement through the car to the trunk, etc...
D'Ecosse
08-24-2005, 17:17
... i'd really like to see a step by step instruction for wiring up an amp and speakers... is that too much to ask? .
Where are you located? I'm really going to have to come over & slap you http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/c0/bgrroll.gif
Try this - is for the SOS kit but should be good as a general guide
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51961
menuserve
08-24-2005, 20:54
i'm in florida... you are welcome to cross country... slap me.. and then install my system for me!
Malibu Rapper
08-24-2005, 23:38
Where are you located? I'm really going to have to come over & slap you http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/c0/bgrroll.gif
You have to admire his inquisitive nature though. :) Also, this guy just barely got his NSX in the driveway and is looking to replace the audio system already so at least his brain is partially working and his priorities are in order. :wink:
D'Ecosse
08-25-2005, 01:32
I hope he knows I'm just messing with him!
It's pretty obvious you're doing some research menuserve - welcome to the club partner! http://smilies.sofrayt.com/%5E/u/djsmile.gif
juejaimon
09-07-2005, 15:33
Thanks to all that have made comments here... i'm starting to learn more and more about the stereo system in our cars....
I have a JL 300/4 as well and will be installing that with the two harnesses that Ken had linked above along with the stock head unit. I will be using and extra 1/2 of the OEM door speaker enclosures to hold some new speakers. I'm not planning to install a sub at this time, just use the door speakers for all the ranges.
Can someone suggest some good speakers for my task?
Malibu Rapper
09-07-2005, 16:14
I have a JL 300/4 as well and will be installing that with the two harnesses that Ken had linked above along with the stock head unit. I will be using and extra 1/2 of the OEM door speaker enclosures to hold some new speakers. I'm not planning to install a sub at this time, just use the door speakers for all the ranges.
Are you planning on using half of the speaker enclosure to hold the speaker? I would not suggest doing that Sell those crappy door speakers and it will easily pay for a set of speaker plates for you to mount your speakers on. Or if you are up to it, make your own speaker baffle.
The easiest option you have is use a coaxial speaker in the doors. The higher quality ones usually have separate crossovers and you have plenty of power to push them with. Try to take a listen to the speakers they have at your local shops to decide on which one's right for you. JL makes a really nice set of 6.5" coaxials (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_components.php?comp_id=119). But take a listen to everything, the sky's the limit.
juejaimon
09-09-2005, 23:59
Thanks Malibu.... will look into the coaxials... :)
vBulletin® v3.7.2, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.