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Unofficial weight reduction thread

tsuchiya said:
this is the greatest thread I've seen on prime. cheers to everyone.


some new thoughts:

- is the JDM wood trim lighter than the standard USA trim?

- how much does the standard starter weigh, and what are the aftermarket options? I'd guess that a lightweight replacement could save 7lbs at most.

- lightweight, maybe titanium, engine mounts.

- how about drilling holes in the aluminum to save weight (or even increase rigidity)

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- paper stickers for license plates? (aught to save quite a bit right there, front and back)
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make sure you are chamfering the holes as well or you will end up actually loosing rigidity :wink:
 
^One impact and that swiss cheese unibody and framerails will crumble to the cage. I'm not sure if I would have gone to that length of cutting holes out of the unibody like that, but rather cut the doors to just the door skins and other areas.

0.02
 
I recently completed the Aluminum bumper beam mod for the front as well. Slightly different than the DIY for the rear beam but i'm very very happy with it. The thing is damn strong too. I suggest other folks look into it.

Saved me another 16lbs (not counting additional savings from removing the washer fluid reservoir).
 
RYU said:
I recently completed the Aluminum bumper beam mod for the front as well. Slightly different than the DIY for the rear beam but i'm very very happy with it. The thing is damn strong too. I suggest other folks look into it.

Saved me another 16lbs (not counting additional savings from removing the washer fluid reservoir).
Click to expand...


cool - mind posting the details?

which part, materials, exact weights of original and replacement parts, installation process and pricing/costs.

thanks!
 
INFO:
4"x4"x34" - 1/8" thick square tube
$45 USD
3-4hrs (fabrication time)
Proper tools? - priceless

BTW...Please refrain from posting about it being unsafe etc. I value my life just as much as the next guy.

EDIT: I considered the Procar solution but because the bumper beam is the main structural support for the Left/Right main chassis beams I felt a CF piece wouldn't be a solid. Just my $0.02.
 

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I have no real input to add but I weighed my 2005 6 speed recently. I have everything in the car that came from the factory including tools and spare tire. My mods include:

-KW V3 coilovers
-Taitec strut tower bar
-NSX-R chassis bars
-STMPO front cross bar
-SOS nav screen and pod
-Pioneer double DIN radio and XM satellite module

Total weight was 1420 kg (3131 lbs) with me not in the car and about 55% worth of gas.

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SRS harness removal

Took my airbag system and sensors out many years ago. Recently had to pull the dash to replace the vent strip and got tired of looking at the massive yellow SRS harness and decided to pull it all. Was fairly easy and does not require dash removal. Only downside i have found is that the horn wire gets it's feed from the SRS harness, so you lose that wire. After hours in the manual i found that i could catch this wire (from the horn relay) in connector C239 (hope i remember the number right). It's a connector along the passenger side of the console tunnel area. I just ran a new wire from that connector (look in the manual to see which pin) to the OEM hose reel which i had previsously abandoned all the wires but one for the horn. Weight savings 1.44 lbs.
 
Sub cover and mount skelotonization

I recommend skelotization only for those engineer, designer, fabricator types that have the skills to determine what to cut and how much. I know there are a few of you out there. OCD helps, but not required. Attached are pics of the alum sub cover and steel mount. Cover saved .23 lbs. Mount saved .26 lbs. The sub cover is much weaker and could be crushed somewhat by a scared passenger with long legs. This "crushing" wouldn't hurt a thing though. FWIW i may pull the whole sub eventually for another 5 lbs or so. I keep my sub at around 20% volume so it's not doing very much. Bose systems are already too bassy to most audiophile tastes.
 

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Skelotonization of the knee bolster under-brace

I recommend skelotization only for those engineer, designer, fabricator types that have the skills to determine what to cut and how much. I know there are a few of you out there. OCD helps, but not required. Attached is pic of
braces under the drivers knee bolster just below the instrument panel. I left most of the strength in the small alum rectangular tube as this item could contribute to lateral dash "shake". I pretty much gutted the thin steel panel though. I also removed the steel plate below the ignition switch which does slightly thwart a person trying to drill up into the switch. I just think it so unlikely for someone to drill this. Saved .55 lbs.
 

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Steering wheel under-cover

I recommend skelotization only for those engineer, designer, fabricator types that have the skills to determine what to cut and how much. I know there are a few of you out there. OCD helps, but not required. Recently i noticed that the plastic cover under the steering wheel (the one that rings the tilt lever) was broken and needed replacement. This panel has a large steel insert that i decided was of no use to me. The large steel mount for this piece appears way overdesigned, so i skelotonized it. Saved .59 lbs on the cover and .4 lbs on the mount. Pic of mount attached. The new cover had the steel reinforcement separate, so i just left it off. My OE cover had the steel portion plastic rivited which could easily be drilled out. The cover is a bit weaker now and an angry knee could break it. But the OE broke anyway, so I'll just pick up a spare or two. Whoops, lost the pic of the mount, sorry.
 
Dont need no stinkin teloscoping steering wheel

After 18 years of ownership, i've never used the teloscoping feature on the steer wheel, yet i find myself "checking" the lever to make sure it's tight, especially at track events. I'm a simple man who loves to eliminate complexity, expecially when it's totally uneeded. So...drumroll... i cut the lever off! I will no longer have to check it. I could still change it by just removing the three screws on the lower steer wheel cover and with a pair of pliers rotate it. Oh yeah, saved .19 lbs. he-he. Theres more weight to be saved on the steer column, but i'll leave something for next year. Current calculated weight 2767.8 lbs with full seats, interior, A/C and stereo. You guys see the episode of Car Science where they did before and after acceleration runs taking off several hundred pounds?. I wasn't able to watch close, but i think they got nearly double the accell benefit as compared with the drag race rule of thumb (had the numbers on the screen, but i couldn't catch them). Have to watch for it again. I don't see how that would happen, but it made me smile anyway.
 
Weighed my NSX recently :biggrin:....

-Info-
2780 lbs.
1992 Formula Red
About 1/4 tank of gas (next time I need to go with a full tank)
Gruppe V2 exhaust
RPF1 wheels 17x8 and 18x9.5
Full interior in cockpit + AC
*Removed - Spare tire and bracket, wipers and motor, OEM radio and sub in pass., cruise control system, engine cover, cd changer, antenna and motor, truck interior/jack and tools, window washer fluid reservoir.
*Installed - H&R lowering springs, Bilstien Shocks, Odyssey 925MJT battery.

More to go!
 
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all this is very inspirational... some a bit crazy and i would never do aside from a race car, but still lots of sane options for me. :wink:
 
99 rs. Yes I was serious. But I mean a thread showing what younstarted with compared to what you have today. You have done amazing work. The last time I saw pics of your car was when the previous owner hadbjumped the curb and hit a metal fence! The wheels were ripped off the car etc. Can you show what was required to out it back together?
 
so i started taking some weight off the car and next thing i know i'm at around 85lbs lighter. lol. car feel peppier now for sure and feels lighter to drive. love it! i want more, lol. :biggrin:
 
HBui39 said:
so i started taking some weight off the car and next thing i know i'm at around 85lbs lighter. lol. car feel peppier now for sure and feels lighter to drive. love it! i want more, lol. :biggrin:
Click to expand...

its kinda addicting.......im down about 150 but have hit a wall in my efforts to reduce further and still keep the luxuries......seats would be next but damn, i love those OEM seats.....
 
yeah, i understand that. its a nice car, i don't want to strip it out. if it were a cheap interior, then no problem!
 

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