Recent content by JDMB20TDA

thank you! It wasn't a bad job, although my back isn't too pleased today. Here's what the hack of a previous owner put together. No solder, no heat shrink, just good quality work.

Anyone have a write up on the ignition switch removal? The link I had is now dead

Did you ever end up picking up these headlights? I got the 9005/9006 versions of these free and wondered if you got them to work.

Self clinching stud worked beautifully! Sorry for the late update, had to wait on the hardware. It's m10 x1.5 but aside from that we're all torqued and good to go. Thanks guys, btw I've included a comparison of the OEM serrated style vs. The "aftermarket" 50mm clinch stud which I chopped down.

Had the brakes apart on my NA1 lastnight and realized the front left caliper bracket had a crack in it. After hours of searching for a single bracket for the car I decided to upgrade now rather than wait. This is already going to save me a ton of cash and headache finding a SL0 part. So to be...

Looks like replacing that stud is my only option as they aren't any top hats available in the US, it'd have to be shipped from Japan. Would you guys happen to know the dimensions of the self clinching stud it's self? Fastenall has then available as single piece parts but only go up to 25mm...

These clinch studs don't seem to be a easy part to find unless in bulk. I'll give arp, McMaster, Grainger a call to see if it's something they just don't have in their parts catalog. Wish I had both pieces to meaure the differences. I'm thinking I could just threade a serrated stud down it would...

Alright thanks, well that's certainly going to be cheaper. I know some are pressed wasn't sure about ours nor was I able to find any information on the top hats. Well thanks guys, any idea if they're clinch studs or the regular (like wheel studs) serrated studs. The serrated studs can be found...

Yea I'm not sure if they are pressed in or tacked but I have access to a welder. The top hats looked to be made from aluminum and the studs most definitely are not, that's why I figured they were pressed in. If that's the case I'd rather break it down and fork out 3$ for a new stud locally.

I was finishing up an easy suspension install on the car when of course something had to go wrong. Well one of the RR top hat studs stripped out. Not sure if it was the previous owner, but the nut doesn't get over 20 ft/lbs before spinning. I'm going to try a thread repair kit and worst case...

I ordered the new terminals and connectors, along with a set of crimpers. Hope they get here sooner than later. As for the service manual is there a place I'd be able to reference that online?

Alright, thanks guys. I heat shrunk my "jumper" and wrapped it up with high temp electric tape for the time being. I only plan to put a few miles on it while I wait for the new connectors. I've reached out to Joe, and he's been very helpful. Not sure on the time frame, but I did inquire the...

It was an OEM unit done by acura.

Hopefully more good news, this may have been the cause as long as I didnt push it out with the jumper. <a href="http://s31.photobucket.com/user/JDMB20TDA/media/IMG_20190516_220640_zpssc4tejgb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img...

Well the resistor seems to be in good shape. I'm getting ~.55 ohms or resistance. <a href="http://s31.photobucket.com/user/JDMB20TDA/media/IMG_20190516_182332_zpsdavrrmro.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/JDMB20TDA/IMG_20190516_182332_zpsdavrrmro.jpg"...