Best DRL solution - looks OEM - easy under-hood connection, converts turn signals to white DRL / amber turn

FWIW on my 91 JDM the existing 1156 socket are plugged into the harness by two spade connectors in a T configuration so no need to cut the sockets off - simply terminating the new socket wires with male spades and plugging them into the harness plug works fine.
 
FWIW on my 91 JDM the existing 1156 socket are plugged into the harness by two spade connectors in a T configuration so no need to cut the sockets off - simply terminating the new socket wires with male spades and plugging them into the harness plug works fine.
Thanks I was thinking this too. I don’t want to cut the harness for sure. I was also thinking about finding a connector I could plug into the harness and wire to the new socket.
 
Since 2016 I've been providing a service to convert oem turn signals to either sequential or non-sequential switchback DRL's. DRL's turn on when the car's ignition is on, and the system is plug & play.
 

Attachments

  • 20210928_193405.jpg
    20210928_193405.jpg
    393.9 KB · Views: 9
Since 2016 I've been providing a service to convert oem turn signals to either sequential or non-sequential switchback DRL's. DRL's turn on when the car's ignition is on, and the system is plug & play.
That would certainly be a great option for folks who don’t want to do the modifications themselves. How do folks contact you? Website, or PM, or…?

You must have been keeping this service a secret though- I searched and only found a 12/2020 post where you said “Coming 2021- Profile Pivot Switchback DRL/Sequential LED turn signal conversions.”

 
Not sure how I missed this thread, this is the first DRL turn signal mod that looks OEM! Might actually have to do this one.

@centerpunch Joe has been selling those on Facebook for a while. Prime rules generally prohibit advertising services/products without a vendor subscription so it hasn't been posted much here.
 
@Honcho IMO the best workaround is to modify the flasher relay.
Yes, but I'm lazy! I have no desire to rip open my dash again and slice my hands up pulling that stupid little relay. :D I'd rather just add the resistor inline. I have a whole bunch leftover from my oil temp controller stuff.
 
What size resistor would work?
There are apparently some 1157 switchback LED bulbs with built-in resistors, that would be the easiest, but I’d worry about all that heat degrading the LEDs or circuitry. Might be fine though.

I’ve modified two flasher relays, but wouldn’t do that again- a huge pain to find it, a huger pain to remove it, and a pain to modify it.

The add-on resistor to eliminate hyperflashing goes in parallel with the new led bulb, so the car sees the same current used by normal incandescent bulbs. They have to be big to dissipate the heat- think about how hot the original bulbs get.

 
The electrical engineer in me can't stand having resistors sitting around for no reason generating heat lol.

But yes, centerpunch is correct, the resistors needed are going to be a high wattage, low resistance type so the ones you have leftover probably will not work for this. The bright filament of a 1157 is about 27 watts, so for the sake of making math easy lets call battery voltage 13.5, meaning 2 amps (P = V * I). This is roughly 10x the current of most 1157 LED bulbs, so our resistor needs to draw 1.8 amps to mimic a 1157. Pulling 1.8 amps at 13.5 volts means a resistance value of around 7.5 ohms. (V = I * R). There's probably some range where the factory flasher relay is happy so you could start off with something like a 10 ohm, 40+ watt resistor and see if that works. That would pull 1.5 amps combined with the LED and would probably make the flasher relay happy.

That's not the sort of thing I would buy on Amazon for cheap TBH. I'd get something like this and make a custom harness for it: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/AHA50AFB-10R/2169297
 
Last edited:
The switchback bulbs I referred to have built in resistors that work fine, for a while, perhaps 45 s?. They can't dissipate the heat for too long though, so when they heat up too much, a thermistor disconnects the resistor, causing hyperflash. They work again when it cools down a couple minutes later. They're pretty much OK, because I seldom have my signal on for more than 30 seconds or so.
(For the add-on resistors, you only need about 15 W, because they're only powered about half the time during flashing.)
 
No “electronic” parts lower tech than resistors, those Amazon resistors will be fine!

Or here’s another source if you’re worried about quality.

 
Back
Top