Climate Control Unit Repair

[emdoller]

#44, 22 X 35 and #32, 47 X 50

Thanks Brian. Looks like I got them right. I'll play with it a bit more today but looks like I'm sending it your way!

Ed

 

[curator]

Mine had the exact same problem and I thought I'd give it a shot before sending it to BrianK for repair.

I removed both caps (#44 and #32 ) as they had leaked. I soldered in new ones and also had to run the jumper from the positive lead of #44. As I said, exactly the same. I checked for continuity between the leads and the pin connectors on the back to see if they were indeed hooked up and everything seemed ok. I was not getting this in the positive lead of #44 which is why I ran the jumper like stated above.

When I hooked the unit back up, it did not fix the problem. It was doing the same thing it did prior to me swapping out the capacitors.

So, I have 2 questions:

1) When I removed my caps, I neglected to write down which cap went where and used the information above (22uf in #44 and 47uf in #32). Is this right?

2) Is there anything else I can check before I send it to BriankK?

Thanks for you help!!

Ed

If I remember correctly the positive leg on cap#32 solders to a trace on both the top and bottom of the board, check continuity on this leg. I had trouble with the top trace and know without it soldered it will not work.
Mike

 

[emdoller]

If I remember correctly the positive leg on cap#32 solders to a trace on both the top and bottom of the board, check continuity on this leg. I had trouble with the top trace and know without it soldered it will not work.
Mike

Thanks Mike.

Do you recall where you soldered the positive leg of 32? It does seem to have continuity on the bottom but I'm not sure where to look on the top. I'll play with it and see if I can figure it out.

Ed

 

[emdoller]

Mike,

That was it, the top did not have continuity. Thanks a bunch. As you said in your original post, if I had to do it again, I would have paid more attention to the bond pads and looked closer at where the surrounding connections really went. I can't believe that those caps did that much damage.

Oh well, it works great.

I really appreciate your help on this!

Thanks again!!!

Ed

 

[Briank]

Yes the Cap leakage does a lot of damage.

 

[emdoller]

Thanks Brian. That's the last thing like that I do. Anything else breaks, it's coming your way.

Thanks again!
Ed

 

[curator]

Mike,

That was it, the top did not have continuity. Thanks a bunch. As you said in your original post, if I had to do it again, I would have paid more attention to the bond pads and looked closer at where the surrounding connections really went. I can't believe that those caps did that much damage.

Oh well, it works great.

I really appreciate your help on this!

Thanks again!!!

Ed

Glad I could help, Mike

 

[emdoller]

Just out of curiosity, why do these caps fail? Are they under rated or did they just choose a bad supplier?

 

[curator]

Just out of curiosity, why do these caps fail? Are they under rated or did they just choose a bad supplier?

Caps are rated for X amount of cycles and the closer you are to the rated voltage and higher temps the lower the cycles. If there is room (higher voltage caps are larger) I like to replace caps with a higher voltage rating thus giving it a longer life. I would also use a high temp cap. Sorry but not being an EE I cannot answer either or both to your question of under rated or bad supplier. Mike

 

[RC51NSX]

On my '97, C11 is leaking as well as C32 and C44. Are all the electrolytic capacitors going to leak? Maybe they should all be replaced?
I just saw on another thread thread that BryanK replaces all the caps when he repairs them. Bryan, do you use higher temp or voltage rated capacitors?

 

[Briank]

On my '97, C11 is leaking as well as C32 and C44. Are all the electrolytic capacitors going to leak? Maybe they should all be replaced?
I just saw on another thread thread that BryanK replaces all the caps when he repairs them. Bryan, do you use higher temp or voltage rated capacitors?

Yes I replace them all. I have seen all but 2 leak and in the quanties I buy capacitors the cost is nominal. I use the same values, Mf, volts, temp rating and try to get the 2000 hour life if I can. I have been fixing these for about 8 years and have not got back any leakers. I beleive the orginals did not meet the spec.

 

[troca]

Hey Brian, I picked up a repaired board from you over winter and put it in my car. Had a chance to take the car out for the first time this year yesterday, I just couldn't wait any longer and after a few days of clear weather and all the salt off the roads (we're not done with winter yet, so I had to jump at the opportunity presented this week) it was like falling in love all over again and the CCU worked great. Thanks for the help. Tony '94 Brooklands

 

[lilevo]

I just performed the climate control repair and it seems like all buttons work, but I have no display.

I'm not sure where the positive lead of C15 goes on the top side (if anywhere) or the bottom side of C44.

Top of C15:

The trace all around the positive lead is all ground so I'm not sure where the top side + leg would go if anywhere.

Bottom of C44

I'm guessing the + lead just gets soldered to the trace that encircles it.


Anyone able to post pictures of the above two caps for me from a good working board?

Thanks!

 

[redbird92]

Brian K has done so many Climate control and aspirator fan repairs for my shop, I have lost count! His work and help for the NSX community is a real treasure!!!

Ben

 

[Briank]

I just performed the climate control repair and it seems like all buttons work, but I have no display.

I'm not sure where the positive lead of C15 goes on the top side (if anywhere) or the bottom side of C44.

Top of C15:

The trace all around the positive lead is all ground so I'm not sure where the top side + leg would go if anywhere.

Bottom of C44

I'm guessing the + lead just gets soldered to the trace that encircles it.


Anyone able to post pictures of the above two caps for me from a good working board?

Thanks!

C44 only connects on the top side of the board, what you have is a short circuit so you may have also blown one of the transistors so even when you remove the short the display may still be dead.