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Difficulty shifting into gear under power. Very notchey shifting.

DRIFTER

DRIFTER

Legendary Member
Joined
9 October 2005
Messages
2,714
Location
Ulster Park,NY
My NSX has been sitting for about 6 months and today I took it for a ride. When shifting its like the shift linkage is hitting a wall. It just wont go into gear. I found that if I pump the clutch in Neutral it will go into gear easier. Gears hold, are smooth and will go into gear with no issues when not running or under power. Clutch holds without slipping. I feel like it is a broken part because it just started happening all of a sudden;

Fluid level is good.
No moisture inside the car on carpet (master slave has less then 10k miles on it and was replaced with OEM new part)
Transmission fully rebuilt with all new OEM parts snap ring and housing has been replaced. (under 10k on trans.)
Clutch is an SOS upgrade and has approx 10k miles

Can a clutch loose initialization?

Could it be air in clutch system?

How do you bleed the clutch?

I replaced all the internal components on the transmission could it be an external part?

Linkage hanging up? Its not in the center console i pulled it apart to check, but back on the transmission?

Its got me puzzled any Ideas?

Thanks Charles
 
Clutch Master and Slave

Check your clutch master cylinder in front and slave cylinder in rear. Just a guess, but sounds like one or the other needs to be replaced.

Do you see any fluid?

Good luck,

Drew Altemara
 
DrewA said:
Check your clutch master cylinder in front and slave cylinder in rear. Just a guess, but sounds like one or the other needs to be replaced.

Do you see any fluid?

Good luck,

Drew Altemara
Click to expand...

Thats what I dont get. No fluid anyware and the level hasent changed.
 
Check near the pedals as per Larry B. If there's fluid, then the master must be change and you should always change the slave while you're at it.

Frankie
 
Lamchop168 said:
Check near the pedals as per Larry B. If there's fluid, then the master must be change and you should always change the slave while you're at it.

Frankie
Click to expand...

No fluid in tha carpit area I had this issue allredy and the part was replaced with a new OEM part.

I went threw my receipts and I had the one at the firewall (clutch master cylinder) replaced but I cant find the receipt for the master slave so I think that my be the culprit.(They say one is usually right behind the other due to the added pressure)

My brother is going to brining home a quality bleed tool from his shop and I'm going to attempt to bleed it and give it a good flush. If this don't work I will replace the master slave.
 
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The SOS clutch has no initalization, so it is not that. Sounds like the clutch disk is hanging onto the pressure plate/flywheel. This may sound crazy, but I would try slipping the clutch a few times on purpose to insure any rust/etc. is removed to see if that frees it up.

BTW, Does the clutch pedal free correct? Proper end play?

HTH,
LarryB
 
It dose seem a bit light. But it's been a while since I had it out. The car has been sitting due to my front shocks being bad. Just put new tires and shocks in and now this. It was driving fine before I put it away in the garage. Going to slip the clutch see if that's all it is. Fingers crossed. Thanks Larry

- - - Updated - - -

Ok. At start up car shift and acts/shifts normal. Issue seems to get progressively worse as the car warms up. I did as you suggested Larry not to the point I smelled burning clutch but the clutch operates smooth and engages smooth. Its only after driving it and warming it up do you notice the problem. Its almost as if the clutch is intermittently not disengaging the flywheel. I took it up some steep hills and under power push the clutch in and at times it was not disengaging (no change in RPM) (no change in peddle pressure). Other times it would disengage and "pop" the clutch. When driving it, it feels as if you are trying to shift the car without the clutch intermittently. Which I believe is happening.

So I think I narrowed it down to the mechanical parts that operates the clutch. (Not the clutch or trans)

If I pump the clutch in neutral between gears it engages normal or a bit more notchy (in the stick not the gears) then normal but I can get it to shift.

I think its ether the slave cylinder "in the back" hanging up or air in the line. I don't think its air because peddle pressure is not changing when it malfunctions.

My brother is bringing home his vacuum bleeder tonight I'm going to try and bleed / flush the system see if I can get it to operate properly. If not I'm thinking about replacing the slave cylinder. Everything else has been replaced and is mostly new and I don't think we replaced the the slave cylinder last time I had it out to you. If I remember correctly I just had the clutch master cylinder done. (The one at the firewall that makes the carpet wet)

46930-SL0-003 : For a 1992 NSX Slave cylinder @ $102.29 sound about right? Anyone order from Delray Acura before?
 
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I got my slave cylinder last year from RockAuto for $42 - it was the OEM part with "Beck-Arnley" on the box. IE, other than manufacturing date, every casting lump, bump, shape, color etc matched the OEM.

Delray Acura is fine. For my clutch itself & release bearing (plus axle boot kits, water pump, 20 cooling hoses, etc) I used OEMAcuraParts.com (866-347-4510 or 866-347-8355).
 
I ordered a new Slave cylinder last night. If im going threw the trouble of bleeding it I might as well replace it.
 
I just replaced my slave cylinder which failed. I was able to shift the car while it was failing, but it progressively got harder to do, and it wasn't long before I wasn't able to get the clutch to release at all. My point is that a failed cylinder is almost "it works or doesn't work" issue. Yours seems to come and go so I'm wondering if it is a clutch issue. Other than bleeding the system replacing the slave Cyl is easy so its a good idea you eliminate the possibility that it's the problem. Always start with the easiest solutions first. If the Cyl is bad you'll see evidence of leakage as soon as you remove it. A vacuum bleeder is definitely going to help bleed the system. I couldn't get the system to bleed without it and even with it, it took a long time and several refills of the resv, and I had a reserve bottle mounted to the resv. that automatically kept it full.
 
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Reason I don't think it's the clutch is that it's fairly new, and it holds and operates normal when cold. It's not slipping, making noise or anything. It holds, its just not releasing after a few dozen shifts (the job of the slave). It may just need to be bled, but it can be a pain like you said so I'm replacing the slave at the same time and flushing the system. (Clutch peddle may feel a lil light) Fingers crossed thats all it is. If not I will get to down to LarryB to look at the clutch.

Just chewing my fingernails waiting on the parts now. :redface:
 
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DRIFTER said:
Reason I don't think it's the clutch is that it's fairly new, and it holds and operates normal when cold. It's not slipping, making noise or anything. It holds, its just not releasing after a few dozen shifts (the job of the slave). It may just need to be bled, but it can be a pain like you said so I'm replacing the slave at the same time and flushing the system. (Clutch peddle may feel a lil light) Fingers crossed thats all it is. If not I will get to down to LarryB to look at the clutch.

Just chewing my fingernails waiting on the parts now. :redface:
Click to expand...

Good Luck and I hope it is just the slave cylinder.
I would gladly trade my disappearing oil pressure when Vtec is engaged for your clutch problems.
 
Well, got the master slave in and bled but the issue is still their but not as bad. Going to try bleeding it again.

Anyone think it would be that lil clutch dampener that some remove. Could that be sticking?

I hope it's not the Centerforce Clutch barley has 15k miles on it.
 
It's air in the line. Put 60 miles on the car today. If I shift slow it drives fine. Then 150' from my driveway the pedal went to the floor with no loss of fluid. Its got to be air in the line. Anyone got a good brand bleeder they recommend the one I have just is not cutting it.
 
Larry Bastanza said:
Make sure you check every 5 or so pumps that the reservoir has fluid;).......
Click to expand...

Its the clutch. must have threw a spring or the pressure plates let go. It wont disengage now and all the hydraulics are operating properly. When the car is in neutral and clutch peddle is depressed after the slack is taken up a vibration can be felt in the peddle now. (It will go threw the gears when not running. when running it wont.) I have the original SOS clutch with low miles but after looking it was replaced in 2006-2007.

So there are a few different clutch options since then. What clutch would you guys recommend?
 
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can you reuse the flywheel and just get another 275 from sos...or do you have more than stock hp? also Chris might be in a good mood from xpo and cut you a break on a replacement...:biggrin:
 
Who's making the New SOS clutches?

Right now I have bolt ons and short gears. I plan to turbo it after I pay off my wife's school loans. So I want something that will handle the extra power but not be over kill.
 

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