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The LoveFab Twin Turbo J Series NSX Build Thread

Joined
21 October 2005
Messages
1,416
Location
Traverse City, MI
We've been hard at work for awhile now, working on a twin turbo setup for the NSX J swaps. The benefits of the J series are many, mainly being cheap and plentiful replacements, they are outlined in other areas and wont be covered here in detail.

Velocitized's mount systems are being utilized, with a custom crossmember similar in construction with our chassis braces to open up even more room in the NSX engine bay.

The goal is a bolt-in turbo system for those choosing to go the J swap route, without losing anything NSX specific, except the C series replacement cost.

Heres where we sit as of now:

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The system is centered around two Garrett T28 Turbochargers(variants available depending on customer goals) with a LoveFab water to air intercooler. Exhaust, and cold side plumbing is being kept to an absolute minimum for cost, as well as transient response.

We transported a customers 1995 NSX this past weekend, to get started on the full conversion. The car is actually our first shop car from a decade ago, which served as our testbed for our C series turbo systems. The symmetry of new frontiers is fantastic!

Anyway, the car suffered a first-of-its-kind broken rod, and the owner decided to swap to the J series for future reduced operating costs. In this case, he chose the J35A3.

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We are equipping the car with a LoveFab AEM Infinity5 dbw system to utilize all of the failsafe and traction control options, which will insure a safe and powerful engine and chassis operation.

The only engine modifications will be valve springs/retainers, to rev a little higher, and for safely maintaining valve control while under boost pressure. Previous turbocharged J series experience has shown massive amounts of torque in relation to the relatively low boost levels.

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We plan on pushing around 10psi to the J35A3, which should yield an easy 350ftlbs of torque, with over 400whp on 92 octane.

More to follow, as we move forward with the installation of the engine, turbo system, and other subsystems...

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The J35A4 makes a bit less power than the A3.... but the A5, and A6 made more baseline and they were minivan engines

The A8 was found in the cars like the RL... why not use those?

Also the J35Z had cast iron sleeves.... why not use that.

I'm not an engine builder by any means just trying to learn and understand your mentality in planning.

Please teach guru
 
Pretty sure its been covered in the jswap forum under velocitized.. Mainly for compatiability of utilizing your stock nsx tranny.

Nice to see you working with the swap aswell Cody..
 
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I guess now is a good a time as any! Already nabbed that clutch from you a few weeks ago... Seems logical to throw a full plug an play J35a3 or J32a2 into my 91 while I'm at it!

A simple trans rebuild and timing belt job has really taken a turn! Haha
 

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Easy work so far...

Huh. I guess the front engine mount is reused on these J-swaps, but flipped upside down?

I'd imagine it's going to tear pretty quickly since you've taken the rubber "V" out of compression and have put it in tension. If you look at it when it's taking the weight, it's probably bottomed out on the little rubber nub in the middle of the mount. Personally, I would take some 3M Windoweld and fill in at the top of your mount before placing that in service.

Looks like a tight fit on the turbos. Another reason not to have the engine flopping around!

Dave
 
The motor mounts remain in their factory position with the J-swap kit the front mount is only turned upside down in this situation to allow room for the front turbo.

I imagine anybody going through this will also stiffen the motor mounts at the same time.
 
Huh. I guess the front engine mount is reused on these J-swaps, but flipped upside down?

I'd imagine it's going to tear pretty quickly since you've taken the rubber "V" out of compression and have put it in tension. If you look at it when it's taking the weight, it's probably bottomed out on the little rubber nub in the middle of the mount. Personally, I would take some 3M Windoweld and fill in at the top of your mount before placing that in service.

Looks like a tight fit on the turbos. Another reason not to have the engine flopping around!

Dave
Yes, but its flipped on our twin turbo kits to make room for the turbo. 3M all the things.
 
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New subframe for the flipped engine mount, as well as additional clearance. We also fixtured the factory engine mount location for those who just want to free up some room and replace the bulky factory crossmember for more room.

Nice, What's the cost of the Fabricated crossmember OEM mount location? What's the weight compared to OEM?
Thanks
 
Awesome! Nice to see the progress. Your thoughts on why the primaries have quite a large OD?
We used our standard Schedule 40 pipe for these manifolds; we've built thousands over the years with a phenomenal success rate. In any case, it's a 1-5/8" ID which matches the J series perfectly
 
RYU, did you want Cody to make them out of average size plumbing? Would that feel more familiar in your hands? 😂 Cody used to working with BIG pipe, at least that's what he tells me. 😱

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
RYU, did you want Cody to make them out of average size plumbing? Would that feel more familiar in your hands? 😂 Cody used to working with BIG pipe, at least that's what he tells me. 😱

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
There's a Trump joke in there somewhere...
 
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