Nice! What side rotors F/R will you be going with?
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The Phoenix is about to rise from the ashes
- Thread starter FSFNSX
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I’m using 345mm up front and 330mm rotors in the rear.
I decided to test fit the calipers tonight. The new billet brackets for the Project Mu fit fantastic. It was a real PITA to make them from scratch as Project Mu would not sell me brackets since they discontinued this kit a long time ago.
The Powder coating on the rear Brembos look great in person just slightly darker then the anodized fronts.
I decided to test fit the calipers tonight. The new billet brackets for the Project Mu fit fantastic. It was a real PITA to make them from scratch as Project Mu would not sell me brackets since they discontinued this kit a long time ago.
The Powder coating on the rear Brembos look great in person just slightly darker then the anodized fronts.
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I’ve been super busy with work and renovating the house, so once again my NSX has been put on the back burner a bit. Luckily the motor has been at Science of Speed in the meantime being built. It should be completed this month if all goes well. I attached a photo of some of the parts I sent them to assemble my block with.
I upgraded my crankshaft to a 3.2 which has larger rod bearings. I went with stock Ti rods and had Science of Speed bush them to accept my new CP pistons. I’m told they will hold my power and keep the rotating mass low unlike billet aftermarket rods. They also machined my sleeves for larger pistons and time certed the block for me.
I did have a chance to test fit my Motec Dash tonight and I must say I definitely like it over the stock gauges. I’m going to send out the billet gauge holder and have it coated in black so it blends better with the dash.
Hopefully in the coming days I will have a chance to install my Air cups on my Zeal Super Function coilovers.
Thats the update for now
Andrew
I upgraded my crankshaft to a 3.2 which has larger rod bearings. I went with stock Ti rods and had Science of Speed bush them to accept my new CP pistons. I’m told they will hold my power and keep the rotating mass low unlike billet aftermarket rods. They also machined my sleeves for larger pistons and time certed the block for me.
I did have a chance to test fit my Motec Dash tonight and I must say I definitely like it over the stock gauges. I’m going to send out the billet gauge holder and have it coated in black so it blends better with the dash.
Hopefully in the coming days I will have a chance to install my Air cups on my Zeal Super Function coilovers.
Thats the update for now
Andrew
I'm not a flashy guy so I definitely couldn't go with anything but Champ White or Black. I can't even do Red haha. Vote is in for CW!
I finally decided to hold off on painting the car as all the shops in my area have quoted me nearly 20k for a paint job. I would rather put money into making my car fast and reliable at this point.
I ended up ordering a satin metallic vinyl wrap in red to hold me over for a year so I can finally enjoy this car. Maybe next winter I will take it to a reputable shop in SoCal and get it painted for a reasonable rate.
Here are a few pictures of the color I ordered. What inspired me to do it was seeing a new Supra an an auto show with a silver satin metallic vinyl wrap.
I ended up ordering a satin metallic vinyl wrap in red to hold me over for a year so I can finally enjoy this car. Maybe next winter I will take it to a reputable shop in SoCal and get it painted for a reasonable rate.
Here are a few pictures of the color I ordered. What inspired me to do it was seeing a new Supra an an auto show with a silver satin metallic vinyl wrap.
I received some great news today…
SOS has officially finished my short block. I ended up have SOS install Time serts, Bush factory Ti 3.2 rods, balance the rotating assembly, hone the sleeved cylinders .20 over for my new CP 9.5-1 pistons and fully assemble it at their beautiful facility.
It was not cheap, but I have the piece of mind it’s put together by a great team and should hold up until I’m ready to be buried in the NSX one day LOL
Now the question is do I ship them my heads and have them install them or do it myself since they are freshly machined with larger valves and Supertech valve train … ?
SOS has officially finished my short block. I ended up have SOS install Time serts, Bush factory Ti 3.2 rods, balance the rotating assembly, hone the sleeved cylinders .20 over for my new CP 9.5-1 pistons and fully assemble it at their beautiful facility.
It was not cheap, but I have the piece of mind it’s put together by a great team and should hold up until I’m ready to be buried in the NSX one day LOL
Now the question is do I ship them my heads and have them install them or do it myself since they are freshly machined with larger valves and Supertech valve train … ?
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Finally had some time to work on my NSX since my lady is visiting family for a few days and my house is snowed in. Decided to put together the Air Cup kit I purchased from Stance Parts. I also purchased the bracket from SCW Performance. With all the parts in hand it still took a few hours to assemble as the wiring it a tedious process to make it look factory.
Definitely purchase 90 degree spade connectors, female plug for the supplied relay, Self solder heat shrink connectors, and various shrink tube if you plan on doing this to your car.
The end result looks good now it’s time to install in the car with the aircups.
Definitely purchase 90 degree spade connectors, female plug for the supplied relay, Self solder heat shrink connectors, and various shrink tube if you plan on doing this to your car.
The end result looks good now it’s time to install in the car with the aircups.
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My built short block arrived finally. The engine looks like new. SOS did an excellent job. The only thing original is the block itself at this point as all the other parts have been changed.
I’m going to have Shad at Driving Ambition install the heads and time the CT cam gears for me. Hopefully I can cut away this week and drop them off to him at his shop.
I’m going to have Shad at Driving Ambition install the heads and time the CT cam gears for me. Hopefully I can cut away this week and drop them off to him at his shop.
Test fitted my billet fuel rails made by WHRDNSX here on prime with 1600 FIC injectors. Everything bolted up nicely, now I can order the AN fitting for it.
I also had my modified intake manifold and adapter Vapor blasted. All I can say is wow they look like new, especially after being covered in carbon from the fire damage.
The Factory NSX-R covers definitely will make the top of the engine look fresh once this manifold assembly is installed on the long block.
I also had my modified intake manifold and adapter Vapor blasted. All I can say is wow they look like new, especially after being covered in carbon from the fire damage.
The Factory NSX-R covers definitely will make the top of the engine look fresh once this manifold assembly is installed on the long block.
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It’s been a long time since updating my build progress. Unfortunately too many other projects have caused it to be on back burner, but I told myself self for my 40th Bday I will get this car finished LOL.
Since receiving the short block from SOS, I have had the heads put together locally with some upgrades. I upgraded the intake valves to supertech 3.2 valves along with supertech valve stem seals. The valve springs and retainers were already upgraded to supertech by the previous owner. The lost motion assemblies were also updated to the late model spring version during the refresh. Lastly I purchased a set of Schneider 286F cams from a prime member who parted out his car.
The dry sump system was removed and sold. I painstakingly purchased all the parts to install the factory oil sump. I upgraded the oil pump gear to a Toda gear in the new oil pump assembly to be safe in the high RPM’s.
I ordered all new factory seals, gaskets, oil pump, water pump and sensors. I installed a crank sensor from WHRDNSX as well for more precision monitoring. A kevlar Power Enterprise was used rather than an OEM unit along with a Cedar Ridge timing belt adjuster. All the aluminum parts on the motor were vapor blasted locally to give everything the new OEM look and feel.
To lighten up the engine I installed a Foundry alternator bracket. New alternators are crazy expensive and only available in Japan plus buying a rebuilt unit stateside is nearly impossible, I ended up having mine disassembled, vapor blasted and then rebuilt by a local shop.
My EGR was removed and needed a block off plate as I’m running a modified intake manifold with Accufab 75mm throttle body. I had a local water jet shop make me an aluminum block off plate using the OEM gasket as a template.
Lastly I purchased a set of valve covers as the originals were warped from the fire. I tried to match the color to the red from from Honda with powder coating. I installed a late model Type R manifold cover and plate to finish it out.
As you can see lots has transpired with the engine since the last update. I need to modify the water neck with AN bungs next and I will then be ready to drop in the motor. The next update will be mating up the gearbox and installing the drivetrain.
I have attached a few photos to show some of the current progress.
Since receiving the short block from SOS, I have had the heads put together locally with some upgrades. I upgraded the intake valves to supertech 3.2 valves along with supertech valve stem seals. The valve springs and retainers were already upgraded to supertech by the previous owner. The lost motion assemblies were also updated to the late model spring version during the refresh. Lastly I purchased a set of Schneider 286F cams from a prime member who parted out his car.
The dry sump system was removed and sold. I painstakingly purchased all the parts to install the factory oil sump. I upgraded the oil pump gear to a Toda gear in the new oil pump assembly to be safe in the high RPM’s.
I ordered all new factory seals, gaskets, oil pump, water pump and sensors. I installed a crank sensor from WHRDNSX as well for more precision monitoring. A kevlar Power Enterprise was used rather than an OEM unit along with a Cedar Ridge timing belt adjuster. All the aluminum parts on the motor were vapor blasted locally to give everything the new OEM look and feel.
To lighten up the engine I installed a Foundry alternator bracket. New alternators are crazy expensive and only available in Japan plus buying a rebuilt unit stateside is nearly impossible, I ended up having mine disassembled, vapor blasted and then rebuilt by a local shop.
My EGR was removed and needed a block off plate as I’m running a modified intake manifold with Accufab 75mm throttle body. I had a local water jet shop make me an aluminum block off plate using the OEM gasket as a template.
Lastly I purchased a set of valve covers as the originals were warped from the fire. I tried to match the color to the red from from Honda with powder coating. I installed a late model Type R manifold cover and plate to finish it out.
As you can see lots has transpired with the engine since the last update. I need to modify the water neck with AN bungs next and I will then be ready to drop in the motor. The next update will be mating up the gearbox and installing the drivetrain.
I have attached a few photos to show some of the current progress.
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Good to see you’re still at it!
Wow, first time back on this forum since I sold the car! Not sure why you decided to go turbo. That motor was a beast, finally got it sorted (no more dropped sleeves) and had over 550 supercharged RW HP and so much torque from the very bottom to top. Here's a link to the last tuning session;
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The dry sump was needed for the track and the huge intercooler and dual TBs required to keep IATs low and throttle response instantaneous.
If it wasn't for us dummy's trying to get "flames" to shoot out the exhaust when the throttle was released, I'd still probably own it. While Bisi had plenty of knowledge of how to get the "turbo" flames on Porsches, he/we didn't realize how much force that puts on the timing belts (Porsches have chains), and on our last attempt the engine started running rough.
The belt slipped a few teeth. Instead of pulling the engine like I should have, I tried pulling the motor mounts and jacking the engine up to get access to the cam gears. I was successful and a compression/leakdown test showed no bent valves, but in the process, one of my drysump oil lines apparently got too close to the wrapped header. All the lifts were in use (close to SEMA), so I crawled under and looked as best I could for anything out of place and didn't see anything obvious. It wasn't until I was almost home when I saw smoke in the engine compartment. The rest is history.
Man, that car was an animal for about 1 week. The turbos may have had me on top end, but by that time I'd have been way GONE. Gotta laugh when I see that little intercooler under the SoS TVS kit. Even with Lavinova cores (if that's what they still use) it'll heatsink in no time.
The dry sump was needed for the track and the huge intercooler and dual TBs required to keep IATs low and throttle response instantaneous.
If it wasn't for us dummy's trying to get "flames" to shoot out the exhaust when the throttle was released, I'd still probably own it. While Bisi had plenty of knowledge of how to get the "turbo" flames on Porsches, he/we didn't realize how much force that puts on the timing belts (Porsches have chains), and on our last attempt the engine started running rough.
The belt slipped a few teeth. Instead of pulling the engine like I should have, I tried pulling the motor mounts and jacking the engine up to get access to the cam gears. I was successful and a compression/leakdown test showed no bent valves, but in the process, one of my drysump oil lines apparently got too close to the wrapped header. All the lifts were in use (close to SEMA), so I crawled under and looked as best I could for anything out of place and didn't see anything obvious. It wasn't until I was almost home when I saw smoke in the engine compartment. The rest is history.
Man, that car was an animal for about 1 week. The turbos may have had me on top end, but by that time I'd have been way GONE. Gotta laugh when I see that little intercooler under the SoS TVS kit. Even with Lavinova cores (if that's what they still use) it'll heatsink in no time.
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