Difference between revisions of "Coolant hoses"

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<p>Larry B also advises that a heat gun can be very effective in freeing up stuck hoses as well as for installing the new ones later.</p>
 
<p>Larry B also advises that a heat gun can be very effective in freeing up stuck hoses as well as for installing the new ones later.</p>
 
<p>Some of the clamps are very difficult to grab with pliers.  A wide set of pliers may be an asset. Try grabbing some of the clips at a 30 degree angle to maximize the width, but if the clamp moves just a tiny bit it will spring across the floor or hide somewhere in the car.  Use mechanic gloves, Sears sells these too for $20. They'll keep your finger nails clean and prevent cuts that are going to otherwise occur doing this job.</p>
 
<p>Some of the clamps are very difficult to grab with pliers.  A wide set of pliers may be an asset. Try grabbing some of the clips at a 30 degree angle to maximize the width, but if the clamp moves just a tiny bit it will spring across the floor or hide somewhere in the car.  Use mechanic gloves, Sears sells these too for $20. They'll keep your finger nails clean and prevent cuts that are going to otherwise occur doing this job.</p>
<p>For the oil cooler hoses, the recommendation is to remove the right rear tire and then the oil filter base/pedestal. The clearance is very tight around the small hose and the rear clamp is extremely difficult to grab. So while it may be possible to remove (cut) the hose, it would be impossible to reinstall. The base is secured by three bolts and a double o-ring like gasket. It doesn't make much of a mess and it is easy to remove. The manual states to replace the three bolts and the gasket but the long bolt can be re-used.  The shorter bolts (90042-PR7-A00) have the special sealant on them to keep them tight but you don't need new bolts if you are able to just coat the threads with Hondabond before reinstalling.  Larry B advises "do one hose at a time so the oil cooler/oil filter assy is not dangling by the oil pressure sender wire.  Another trick I can give you is to remove the heat shield from the CV inboard joint. It will make access to the smaller hose easier but not easy."  If you are just doing the hoses on the oil cooler, you will probably need about 4 gallons of replacement coolant since it is at the lowest point in the system.  Raising the rear of the car higher than the front may reduce this to 2 gallons.  Also, keep the water valve for the heater core closed when you drain, but open it before you fill</p>
+
<p>For the oil cooler hoses, the recommendation is to remove the right rear tire and then the oil filter base/pedestal. The clearance is very tight around the small hose and the rear clamp is extremely difficult to grab. So while it may be possible to remove (cut) the hose, it would be impossible to reinstall. The base is secured by three bolts and a double o-ring like gasket. It doesn't make much of a mess and it is easy to remove. The manual states to replace the three bolts and the gasket but the long bolt can be re-used.  The shorter bolts (90042-PR7-A00) have the special sealant on them to keep them tight but you don't need new bolts if you are able to just coat the threads with Hondabond HT before reinstalling.  Larry B advises "do one hose at a time so the oil cooler/oil filter assy is not dangling by the oil pressure sender wire.  Another trick I can give you is to remove the heat shield from the CV inboard joint. It will make access to the smaller hose easier but not easy."  If you are just doing the hoses on the oil cooler, you will probably need about 4 gallons of replacement coolant since it is at the lowest point in the system.  Raising the rear of the car higher than the front may reduce this to 2 gallons.  Also, keep the water valve for the heater core closed when you drain, but open it before you fill</p>
  
 
<h3>Installing the New Hoses</h3>
 
<h3>Installing the New Hoses</h3>

Revision as of 04:43, 26 February 2012

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