Tour de California 2003

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[edit] 2003 Tour de California Report: The Ultimate "Roadhouse"

In 2003 I did not have the time for my annual Tour de California, not to mention the fact that my car's air conditioner is still not working. However, last weekend after the fabulous Concorso Italiano my wife and I had a long-anticipated stay in the Hacienda Guest Lodge. What, you've never heard of it? Don't worry, neither has anyone else. For people who enjoy driving scenic and empty roads, this is probably the greatest weekend get-away bargain in all of California.

Location, Location, Location

The

Hacienda Guest Lodge sits at the eastern terminus of my favorite California byway, Nacimiento-Fergusson Road. This location is so remote that I generally get up before dawn to make a round-trip drive from home. Being able to stay overnight and make it a 2-day trip is a huge plus. In the past, when traveling alone, I have pitched a tent at Ponderosa campground 8 miles in from the coast. The Hacienda is a big improvement over camping. Our spacious $60 room was behind

both the arched windows at the right of the photo.

The Hacienda is inside Fort Hunter Liggett, which these days means that you will need to show current license, registration, and proof of insurance at the gate. They do not have a computer hookup to check it online.

The

drive north on Del Ventura Road inside the Fort is such a treat that you'd probably backtrack to run it again even if it weren't a dead end. Outside the gate, the main road heading south or north is County Road G14. It's wide, fast,

empty, and scenic.

The Hacienda's location is absolutely perfect as a stopover for a 2-day scenic trip between the Bay Area and Los Angeles. If you're heading to the coast, Old Creek Road is your best bet for scenery. If you're heading north, take G14 to King City, then Bitterwater Road to Highway 25 to Hollister. To the south, you should check out the pretty Chimney Rock Road, Adelaida Road, and Vineyard Road before making your way over to Highway 58 to McKittrick.

If you drive Nacimiento Road to the coast and you get there by 8 AM, you will have Highway 1 all to yourself. 'Nuff said.

History

Architect Julia Morgan, who designed Hearst's San Simeon castle, created the Hacienda as a working ranch house, drawing inspiration from the nearby Spanish mission for its white stucco walls and Spanish-tiled roof. An arched colonnade spans the residential wing that encloses spartan cowboy's rooms, suites and other rooms, and Hearst's private quarters. Hearst used the Hacienda as a hunting lodge and party site for guests including such notables as Clark Gable, Spencer Tracy, Leslie Howard, Teddy Roosevelt, and Herbert Hoover. The rooms contain elaborate wood carvings hand-crafted in Spain in 1922, covering the arched windows. This is definitely not a Motel 6.

Half a mile north of the lodge is the historic Mission San Antonio. California's third mission, it was founded five years before the American Revolution. Franciscans restored it in the 1940s, using antique construction tools and reclaimed mud bricks to rebuild the adobe walls. Many other California missions are now surrounded by cities, but San Antonio is set in a landscape pretty much the same as when Father Serra arrived. The original wine vat and cellar survive, grape smells lingering in the cellar, the steps leading up to the vat grooved from two hundred years' wear. Allow some time to walk through and soak up the quiet that envelops this place.

Price

You simply won't believe the prices here. $50 gets you a very nice room, and $125 gets you the 3-bedroom, 2-bath suite. You can have a huge steak dinner for less than $10 (those soldiers are big eaters). And there are no taxes on any of this because it's federal property! For reservations, phone (831) 386-2446.

Miscellany

The restaurant does not serve breakfast, and is open 11AM to 8PM. Service may be slow if the place is full. Your room will likely include a couple of plastic-wrapped pastries for breakfast, along with a coffee maker, microwave and small refrigerator.

The rooms have TV, but no reception. Bring videotapes if you like or borrow them free at the desk at the Restaurant. The Lodge has a very warm swimming pool that is frequented by kids, which is perfect if you brought your own. If you are a hunter, there is a 3-day deer hunting "season" in mid-August. We saw 5 deer and 20 or so quail just driving around in the morning, so I guess the area is packed with wildlife.

A recent fire has burned the grass on the north side of Stony Valley (west of the first hills west of the Nacimiento River crossing). I hope it turns green again soon, because it was the prettiest valley in the state, in my opinion.

In the winter, rain sometimes closes the Nacimiento-Ferguson Road and/or Highway 1. Call CalTrans at 800-427-7623 or check their web site for current road conditions.

And one other thing: let's keep this place our secret... OK?