Background: '00 NA2 w/ Comptech supercharger from dealer floor; I purchased in 2014, one head lifted shortly thereafter; rebuilt engine and redid fueling with AEM F/IC, RC 550 injectors, an AEM fuel-pressure regulator, and a DW200 fuel pump; mileage was 40k. Car has run quite well since then and now has nearly 60k miles.
The last few times I drove the car, I noticed a bit of a miss or cut-out when I went over a bump like a freeway expansion joint. Not very significant, but enough that I wondered if perhaps traction control had engaged, but no light appeared on the dash. Then, the last time I drove it, the same thing happened (on the freeway), but the car freaked. CEL and very rough running, with low AFR readings. It resolved itself after a short period (maybe 15 seconds) and I drove home cautiously. There was a P0107 code (MAP sensor low input). I reset the code and have not driven the car since.
There don't appear to be many posts on here regarding that code, but this one shows up. It seems like a notable difference that he was getting a crank sensor error too. I have not dug into my car, but I thought about grounds a bit and the MAP sensor does not use a grounding point—its ground goes directly to the ECU. This morning I realized that the behavior was consistent with the F/IC having a problem. I don't think they are known for being all that reliable. So I figure that maybe I should get a replacement F/IC.
And here I am. The F/IC appears to be discontinued and not available anywhere. I have no love for them, and would happily go in a different direction, including a standalone. But my car needs to pass an OBD2 check for another three years, then I could register it as an antique. I do prefer to maintain normal registration (w/ OBD2 tests) if possible.
As I understand it, to pass an OBD2 test, I could remove my piggyback, but then I'd have to replace the injectors with factory injectors and make sure my fuel pressure is at factory levels; as long as I don't exceed atmospheric MAP, the factory ECU should be okay. I'm okay with that approach, but it will require buying new injectors just for that purpose.
I'd really appreciate any advice on:
I haven't been on the forum much, mostly because my car has been running well and trouble-free. I'm pretty sad that my car is in its current state, and I know there's nowhere I'll get better advice
-Jason
The last few times I drove the car, I noticed a bit of a miss or cut-out when I went over a bump like a freeway expansion joint. Not very significant, but enough that I wondered if perhaps traction control had engaged, but no light appeared on the dash. Then, the last time I drove it, the same thing happened (on the freeway), but the car freaked. CEL and very rough running, with low AFR readings. It resolved itself after a short period (maybe 15 seconds) and I drove home cautiously. There was a P0107 code (MAP sensor low input). I reset the code and have not driven the car since.
There don't appear to be many posts on here regarding that code, but this one shows up. It seems like a notable difference that he was getting a crank sensor error too. I have not dug into my car, but I thought about grounds a bit and the MAP sensor does not use a grounding point—its ground goes directly to the ECU. This morning I realized that the behavior was consistent with the F/IC having a problem. I don't think they are known for being all that reliable. So I figure that maybe I should get a replacement F/IC.
And here I am. The F/IC appears to be discontinued and not available anywhere. I have no love for them, and would happily go in a different direction, including a standalone. But my car needs to pass an OBD2 check for another three years, then I could register it as an antique. I do prefer to maintain normal registration (w/ OBD2 tests) if possible.
As I understand it, to pass an OBD2 test, I could remove my piggyback, but then I'd have to replace the injectors with factory injectors and make sure my fuel pressure is at factory levels; as long as I don't exceed atmospheric MAP, the factory ECU should be okay. I'm okay with that approach, but it will require buying new injectors just for that purpose.
I'd really appreciate any advice on:
- Things to investigate that may cause the P0107 code
- Alternative piggyback controllers that would allow OBD2 testing
- Standalone controllers that might allow OBD2 testing
- any other way forward
I haven't been on the forum much, mostly because my car has been running well and trouble-free. I'm pretty sad that my car is in its current state, and I know there's nowhere I'll get better advice
-Jason