Basch Boost Rebuild- Anyone know the screw parts?

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7 August 2015
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Princeton, NJ
I was trying to create a WIKI page for the NSX Wiki on basch rebuild parts. However, it seems that I have to be an administrator to do so?

Anyway, here is my parts list. The NOVI gen and direction depends on your serial number, which you'll have to confirm with Paxton.

Supercharger parts (to be revised):
NOVI ABEC 7 (59K rpm) kit, Mech seal
Item# NA7orgM Click Options list: A7 kit, w/ o-ring, Mech. seal
NOVI 2000 Gen 2 - 30mm Mechanical seal
NOVI input and output seal, oring
Gen2 NOVI 1000/2000/2500 30mm OD Mechanical
Oring size: 1/8 cross section

All of these parts (including spare impellers) can be obtained via kit for supercharger at these two places:
https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product-category/sp/sp-paxton/
https://www.superchargerrebuild.com/paxton/
Hence I did not include very much detail as to the individual part numbers or seal sizes.
The superchargerrebuild site has a rebuild option for a couple hundred where you can send yours in to get rebuilt. I would definitely suggest that if you can wait for the shop time.


Basch drive parts:

3x 6204 bearings (20mmx47mmx14mm)
2x 22mmx47mmx7mm oil seals
4x 20mmx47mmx7mm oil seals

I obtained the bearings from motionindustries through a simple google search. The three shaft bearings are the same size, but the seals for one of them will be smaller. There are two seals for each bearing. The seals must be high temp versions (red) rather the normal black versions.

Of course, the cheapest parts are the key and the spider gear, listed below.

Spider Gear:
Lovejoy 72257 Size CJ 24 Curved Jaw Coupling Spider, Urethane - 64 Shore D, Green,, 660 in-lbs Nominal Torque, 10600 rpm Max Rotational Speed
Obtainable on Amazon but also https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/replacement-drive-snout-coupler/

Replacement Key:
https://www.jonbondperformance.com/product/replacement-keys/
The replacement key can be had anywhere supposedly but considering my original broke I had nothing to compare it to.

Lastly is the spider coupler which is a machined piece of aluminum. This is the only thing that is special which I could not find anywhere. It has to be manufactured by a machinist and I paid good money to get one made for me. Currently there is no way to get a new one besides making your own. I should have scanned the part after I had it manufactured, but I am sure the plans can be bought from the right person.

I was wondering if anyone knew where we could get replacements for the below part. Mine are rusted and I would like to replace them, preferably with something that won't rust!

y4mgJU49lxOkfJb_dzc8EBi3ZivY7fwzNrEY6P_pCoao-kI-Qi3ZdOKF4ZML23UpOJMegBWnacnkgrZpUtodan35ESksMEM7IMo14RWbUqeNU0gNS4dMOSR7NInrqSE8earSF0IfVsnNdb8nL9QAzL0LRphzB7-FVMZGvxeAyUIt5xO0xPB44WX6NN5k2tvBbQ6r9Xn1LCoAq2f5k2v2i9bEw


If you guys see any wrong information or anything let me know. I can also add prices to these things.
 
Great to see a BBSC getting some love. I've always been a fan of this design over the roots-type. With modern engine management, I think it's a great upgrade for the NSX!
 
My guess is it's the 3/8-16x1/2" one as listed here. However, can't really be quite sure. What I really want is some torx button-heads so that it isn't as easy to strip over time. Looks like I'll need about 18 of them, assuming all the ones around the drive shaft are the same size.
 
ahh still some BBSC's kicking around eh. I know he sold a couple hundred of them. too bad he didn't have a professional tuner do the tuning... might've kept his business from imploding...not to mention there wasn't a great selection of ECU selection.. i had mine about 50,000 miles.

So, regarding the bolts you're looking for... if you are in the USA, Ace Hardware has an excellent selection of bolts (anodized black, chromed, stainless, you name it) that will work just fine.

When i was having my 2006 Ford GT serviced they discovered my axle bolts needed replacing (recall item eventually). But Ford didn't have them available, and the aftermarket "kit" was ridiculously priced becaue Ford GT. Like, $150 for the set of bolts. We took one to Ace hardware, and they had about 20 of the correct size, with greater hardness and strength available than the original Ford part. ran me $14.... and that was 30,000 miles ago..

by the way, i noticed your BBSC is broken. It is missing an aftercooler.
 
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Thanks Peiserg. I actually went to Ace Hardware today to pick up some seat belt bolts which I did not have when trying to re-install my seats. They were very helpful there.

The Basch replacement bolts I bought from Fastenere.com . After a failed trip to Home Depot (do you know they also don't recycle tube flourescents anymore?) I just decided to look online. It's so much easier to just look up the specs and have it shipped to your door, with the extra bonus of not having to talk to anyone.

Then again, if they truly are the wrong bolts then I'll have to take the right ones to a store to find replacements... and there a store clerk will be invaluable.

Do I need to run an aftercooler for non-track driving? My car is tuned via AEM without it so I feel like the tuner should have accounted for it. The BBSC still makes some noises at times (even after rebuild) and I am wondering if I should invest any more into keeping the system going. The belt looks okay but I bought these bolts so my mechanic won't have to worry about stripping them the next time he opens it up. I would have liked to get torx heads or non-button heads but I couldn't seem to find a suitable replacement. Sort of like the bolts in this for sale thread [link].
 
Thanks Peiserg. I actually went to Ace Hardware today to pick up some seat belt bolts which I did not have when trying to re-install my seats. They were very helpful there.

The Basch replacement bolts I bought from Fastenere.com . After a failed trip to Home Depot (do you know they also don't recycle tube flourescents anymore?) I just decided to look online. It's so much easier to just look up the specs and have it shipped to your door, with the extra bonus of not having to talk to anyone.

Then again, if they truly are the wrong bolts then I'll have to take the right ones to a store to find replacements... and there a store clerk will be invaluable.

Do I need to run an aftercooler for non-track driving? My car is tuned via AEM without it so I feel like the tuner should have accounted for it. The BBSC still makes some noises at times (even after rebuild) and I am wondering if I should invest any more into keeping the system going. The belt looks okay but I bought these bolts so my mechanic won't have to worry about stripping them the next time he opens it up. I would have liked to get torx heads or non-button heads but I couldn't seem to find a suitable replacement. Sort of like the bolts in this for sale thread [link].


I'm sure any competent tuner has accounted for a lack of aftercooler and associated intake temps. You could less expensively do a water injection system. I ran meth on mine. that will keep your intake temps down, and if you're not tracking, a gallon resovoir will last you quite a while.

you don't need an aftrcooler any more than you need a bbsc. run your boost and timing accordingly.

My BBSC, even brand new out of the box, always made squeaky/rattling/hissing noises. I kind of liked it. Most of the BBSC systems i heard first hand made the same noises.

Ok some advice. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN YOUR BELT YOU WILL REGRET IT. You want it JUST TIGHT ENOUGH to not slip, and THAT IS IT it is very easy to adjust (alternator area as i recall... it's one bolt to adjust i think). make sure you are not overtightened. I wore out my bbsc carrier bearings a couple times (once inside of 15 miles), and scored my crank as well.
 
Hmm well I never took the BBSC off myself. My mechanic did it. Would be nice to provide him with the manual so at least he could figure out the torque numbers. Yes it's always been squeaky but I know what a healthy squeaky is! This was recorded last year after the rebuild. I had a month or so of squeak free operation but then this showed up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51jK7_Wckk0

In preparation for another possible opening of the SC to figure out the issues, I bought new hardware. I figured I would write down the part numbers here to preserve the knowledge. So far I haven't noticed any performance issue, but the sound comes and goes and more recently has been very faint (not like the obvious squeaking here).
 
Have you had anymore info on the squeak? I am getting ready to send mine into get a full service. I just emailed the two links you posted so hopefully I will hear back from them soon and the rebuild won't be insane. Do you happen to know if they service the Basch shaft bearings also or just sell the parts?

Also I am going to use a AEM Infinity 8 with Boomslang harness, at least that is the plan so far. I was told to get see if I could get a baseline tune...? I'm not too familiar with tuning so any guidance or help would be greatly appreciated.

Also does anyone have a belt part number? My kit I bought didn't come with a belt.

Thank you,

Ty
 
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The squeak kind of went away. It is more temperature related than anything I think. I haven't heard it for over a year. It may have been my A/C belt as that had snapped last year.

For tuning I haven't heard great things about the AEM ECU. People have mostly switched to Haltec or other brands. I would see what your tuner feels most comfortable working with and if there is an NSX version for that. Your experience will mostly rely on your tuner's capabilities and customer service, not really so much the technology that's in there.

I don't know who "they" are but any competent mechanic should be able to service the shaft bearings. They just need some intuition on how to take the unit apart and a press to get the bearings out.
 
No it’s been on the back burner but I am planning on sending it in next week. I spoke with superchargerrebuild.com and they said it would be $465 for bearings, seals, labor, and return shipping. I spoke with Vortech themselves and they said they couldn’t give me a price without seeing it but said it would be $405 for basic service but that the serial number needed to be over 8,000. I emailed them back asking why cause mine is 7,595 but I never heard back. I emailed them again today and asked if they can do it or not. If I don’t heard from them next week I’m going to just send it to Superchargerrebuilds.com

Went to a bearing shop in town and talked to them about the shaft bearings. They said FAG bearings are about the best I can get. Going to buy them and replace at a machine shop in town.

I’ll post again after I get everything done.
 
My son is 7493 haha so I'm in the same boat as u. R u buying new or refreshing ur old bearings? Also if u go with superchargerrebuilds will u have them replace ur bearings or do u plan to still replace ur own bearings?
 
My son is 7493 haha so I'm in the same boat as u. R u buying new or refreshing ur old bearings? Also if u go with superchargerrebuilds will u have them replace ur bearings or do u plan to still replace ur own bearings?


Crazy LOL

I am going to have Superchargerrebuilds replace the bearing and seals on the supercharger. As for the Basch shaft itself I was just going to buy the bearings from a local shop and see if I can have a machine shop pull and replace them for me. I can keep you posted on how it goes. $465 -
 
Following this. I have a nasty rattle from mine and I feel it's from the shaft coupler. I'll possibly remove the shaft today and see if supercharger makes the noise by itself
 
And I'm also hunting for a pulley but I feel that ill.be making a new shaft coupler along with a quick change pulley setup.
 
Does anyone know where Ill be able to purchase or get the driveshaft and the bracket with the pulley for the passenger side??

Given it's been almost 20 years since this was made, I think your best bet is to take it to a race shop or machine shop and have them 3D scan and cut you new ones on a lathe/CNC. Basch has disappeared completely from the NSX scene, so it's going to be really tough to figure out where he had these made originally.
 
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