Recent content by Kaz-kzukNA1

If you manually activated the pump and the fluid level didn’t drop at all, you have punctured accumulator or pump issue. With the leaky solenoid issue A, B, C as above, if your pump/accumulator were both healthy, then you should see something at the reservoir (bubble or foam) or notice the...

Joe's userID is @nsxspdfreak. 'Mention' feature may not work (never worked for me so no notification received) so search the userID and send conversation. RHD model so different configuration from LHD but you'll get the idea. What year model? Heater core on early models is in brass. Later...

Not directly related to the OP but for the installation, addition to the CD port at the back of the OEM audio head unit, there are few options available. The CD changer cable is pre-installed at the factory all the way to the left forward section of the trunk/boot behind the carpet. If you...

@veilsidesfinest Original photo in Fukuoka, Japan. AT model. Side sill plate looked to be the ‘Custom Order Plan’ one. Doesn’t look like any custom configurations done for the interior so must be on the exterior. Wheel colour looked to be standard. Coupe model and the roof in black so the...

@e9coupe If you found that your front intake cam was aligned with #2 TDC marking when the crank and other 3 x cams were at #1 TDC, you were very lucky. Probably you got away without bending the valves. You may want double checking the TB tension as most likely, it was not adjusted properly if...

Not related to your starting issue but that blue sleeve is for the OEM oil pressure sender unit. The BLU/WHT wire is the actual wire from the top of the sender unit covered by the blue sleeve (your 3rd photo). Unfortunately, in your 2nd photo, looks like the wire was pinched/cut..... Kaz

I do hope it’s done by human error and not something internally ground off that bolt. The photo just looked so strange with taper and even chipped off…. There are 2 types of sealing bolt in use but the other one is in different size and even the spring and the ball are different that can’t be...

Super busy week and weekend so just a quick one. Hard to tell from the photo. Same mechanism used on 5MT as well. Not something start leaking with age although now you mentioned that the gbox was opened. Did you open it recently and found the seepage soon after? If not, very unlikely from...

For the replacement relay, you need the 39794-SL0-J01. The black ones were superseded years ago to the brown one, -J01. Seems like someone already replaced the brown relay (blower Hi) next to the melted slot??? Depending on the country spec and the year model, the relays used inside this...

Hi, Honcho. That’s quite normal and in fact, it should behave like that. When in fresh mode, the fan motor is pushing the fresh air from outside into the cabin. The air inside the cabin must first escape through the multiple vents before the fresh air can replace the existing space/volume. On...

It has been as -306 for quite some time now. Originally manufactured by Toyo Roki in Japan and then changed to Roki and made in USA. Now manufactured by Mahle and made in Thailand. Kaz

As I didn’t want disturbing your nice build thread, thought about not posting here. However, you are happy for me to do so and other owners may re-visit your detailed thread in the future, going to add my experience here. I wrote this for other owners when asked about how I bleed the cooling...

JDM NC1 doesn't have it but not sure about the Type-S. My friend just got the delivery of it in Japan so I'll ask him. Kaz

Not sure this is the same for the DRL blue connector but for the OEM Fog light, you can access the connector without removing the front bumper. Just remove the head light unit. Kaz

It's on the R-side (driver side for the RHD). Probably missed the tiny square on the right in the parts diagram. Remove the lower cover under the steering column. 2 x screw (blue). Be careful not to lose the 2 x rubber cap (red). Disconnect 1 x blue connector from the foot well light. You...