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1992 Electric Short - Troubleshooting

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I would really need some time to sort out the wiring, but one issue I had my on my old TL was a cut (pinched) pair of wires in tail harness that bled 12 volt tail light power to the ign circuit. I ultimately found the problem by physically feeling damaged wires.

It may be worth a steady once over the harnesses (especially where work has recently been done) to look for pinched or cut wires. It is a bit of a crap shoot, but may yield success.
 
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Finally, managed to visit the site again.
Had to disable most of the add-ons and while it still logs me out from time to time, can be managed.

Any way, just wanted to add something I learnt while talking to Honcho on this subject through FB Messenger.

While I knew that the ICU (Integrated Control Unit) spec is different depending on the country model - mainly for the timer setting of the rear defogger and the CAT/Exh temperature monitor for the JDM, never knew that on Acura, the ICU has control on the Low oil pressure warning light and the Front side marker lights.

Learnt something new even after 30 years.....


Kaz
 
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Ok, so I'll just lead with this:

I AM THE DUMBEST PERSON IN THE WORLD

It was a bad battery.

As I was further pulling my hair out over the ETM wiring diagrams and getting ready to pull the steering column apart to try [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION]'s headlights test (they did not illuminate in the closed position, BTW), my son pointed out that maybe I should try the "Type-S battery" instead of the old AT one that was in there.

Wouldn't you know that all normal function restored instantly. All lights work normally, gauges are fine, CCU has power, etc. None of my wiring was wrong. There is no shorted ground or pinched wire. The ICU is totally fine.

That's right, my seven year old son fixed my NSX...

Now I have to put the whole interior back together. Thanks all again for your help.
 
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Ok, so I'll just lead with this:

I AM THE DUMBEST PERSON IN THE WORLD

It was a bad battery.

As I was further pulling my hair out over the ETM wiring diagrams and getting ready to pull the steering column apart to try [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION]'s headlights test (they did not illuminate in the closed position, BTW), my son pointed out that maybe I should try the "Type-S battery" instead of the old AT one that was in there.

Wouldn't you know that all normal function restored instantly. All lights work normally, gauges are fine, CCU has power, etc. None of my wiring was wrong. There is no shorted ground or pinched wire. The ICU is totally fine.

That's right, my seven year old son fixed my NSX...

Now I have to put the whole interior back together. Thanks all again for your help.

It’s always something simple. Good thing you found it out before gutting the entire car!
 
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So you think you are smarter than an 8th grader.....:)
 
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If it is any comfort, I think you have a fair amount of company in the club of people who got screwed around by a dodgy battery. Batteries with a high internal resistance or bad terminal connection can provide full voltage at light / no load; but, the voltage collapses under heavy load confusing the typical tests. The particularly confusing feature in your case is why a failing battery would cause the ICU to illuminate the front side marker lights at full bright - that particular symptom remains baffling.

I (and at least one other owner) had a weird little electrical symptom where the security system would fail to arm. A check of all the switch inputs confirmed that they were all functioning correctly. The problem (for me and the other owner) rectified itself when the battery died about 1 week later and a new battery eliminated the security system problem.
 
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Glad to hear you're back on track and that your son is a natural born troubleshooter. He's probably incredibly anxious for a ride.
Looking forward to seeing this completed.
 
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