• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

A/C Compressor replace with a 94 or newer?

warrenw

warrenw

Legendary Member
Joined
5 September 2007
Messages
2,460
Location
Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Over at NSXCB, Kaz has a typical breakdown of a/c compressors by year and model for R-12 and R134 compressors.
You might try looking at his 'engine refresh" blog to get what you need.

Cheers
nigel
 
Last edited:
Hi Warren, Sorry to hear about your A/C. Mine was out for the whole trip down and back to NSXPO!

I order parts from RockAuto.com all the time, just stick with Denso if you can. If you click on the blue part number listings on RockAuto.com it will show you the cross reference vehicle compatibility. All NSXs actually used the same 10PA15C compressor some are just updated with compatible seals for R134, which if you haven't already converted to R134 now might be the perfect time.
 
I'm getting ready to do this swap myself, to my 1993 UK car, not sure if any possible differences between UKDM and USDM but looks like a good upgrade if you need to change.
The P9K replacement compressor fitted to later models apparently draws less power from the engine when in use. To fit to an earlier model you will also need to buy the later bracket. You may also need to switch the pulley.

Your other option is to get your own unit reconditioned...
 
I did mine probably 10 years or more ago now and did the R134 upgrade at the same time as replacing the compressor .. which I bought on eBay. It wasn't an NSX specific compressor and I recall they had some problems installing it but it has worked ok. I'd have to search the archives for details. I think it whines a bit more than stock but otherwise has been ok. I had the dealership do it with the proper Acura upgrade kit. There are a few more details in the Wiki here: http://nsxprime.com/wiki/Climate_Control
 
Velocitized said:
Hi Warren, Sorry to hear about your A/C. Mine was out for the whole trip down and back to NSXPO!

I order parts from RockAuto.com all the time, just stick with Denso if you can. If you click on the blue part number listings on RockAuto.com it will show you the cross reference vehicle compatibility. All NSXs actually used the same 10PA15C compressor some are just updated with compatible seals for R134, which if you haven't already converted to R134 now might be the perfect time.
Click to expand...

Does the compressor in Warren's link have the R134A seals? Also, where do you get the updated bracket?
 
Recently installed a new one as well. I believe new compressors work with both R12 and 134. I chose R12. Freezing cold. Actually colder than original. Mine was direct replacement.
 
UPDATE:
my system blows cold, and the compressor doesn't make noise until it gets hot. I am thinking the clutch bearing may be all that is bad. I will have to remove the clutch from the compressor with the compressor still on the car to determine what is good and what is bad. The clutch itself isn't available anymore. from Acura only the 1994 clutch with complete stator coil is still available. ~$100.00. Once I find time, I will update what is required to fix this.
 
Again, if you read Kaz's write up it will answer ALL your questions in the usual Kaz thoroughness so all can understand with p/n's and model applications.

Cheers

nigel
 
Last edited:
Owali said:
Did you get the '94 up OEM model or a generic?
Click to expand...

Generic. Bought it locally. Brand new/$275.00. Quiet as a mouse, pulley was a smiggen smaller so got a new belt. Otherwise, bolted directly on. FWIW, if your going back R12, drain and flush the pag oil from it with mineral oil.
 
Owali said:
Does the compressor in Warren's link have the R134A seals? Also, where do you get the updated bracket?
Click to expand...

Acura changed the compressor in 94 and the bracket in 97, so I don't think you need to change the bracket.

- - - Updated - - -

warrenw said:
UPDATE:
my system blows cold, and the compressor doesn't make noise until it gets hot. I am thinking the clutch bearing may be all that is bad. I will have to remove the clutch from the compressor with the compressor still on the car to determine what is good and what is bad. The clutch itself isn't available anymore. from Acura only the 1994 clutch with complete stator coil is still available. ~$100.00. Once I find time, I will update what is required to fix this.
Click to expand...


I am pretty sure the newer clutch will work just fine.
 
The early model year clutches are all listed as discontinued in Acura's US parts catalog. However they are still available from Honda dealers in Japan. I ordered part # 38900-PR7-A03 which is for the 93 and it fits my 91 fine. Last I checked the part is built to order with a 3 week wait. I ordered mine from here and it was shipped out via DHL in exactly 3 weeks just as promised....

http://jp-carparts.com/

I have found that about 50% of the time when your Acura dealer tells you the part is "discontinued" you can actually still get the part in Japan. I have also found that some Honda parts are actually cheaper to buy from Japan even after factoring in shipping fees, although this clutch is not one of them.
 
Last edited:
I ordered a new compressor from Rock Auto. R12 and R134a compatible.

removing the snap ring for the pulley broke a piece of the compressor housing. (crap) (it was Friday the 13th)

R12 is readily available in Canada. It is just more expensive. In fact, even Canadian Tire sells it retail.
My neighbor is a refrigeration mechanic, and he said if we can get a R12 compressor do it. Lower pressure, less load on the engine, and about 40% better cooling abilities.
So does anyone know the specifications for how much R12 in oz goes in the system? Or where I can find that spec?
 
Last edited:
Velocitized said:
Hi Warren, Sorry to hear about your A/C. Mine was out for the whole trip down and back to NSXPO!

I order parts from RockAuto.com all the time, just stick with Denso if you can. If you click on the blue part number listings on RockAuto.com it will show you the cross reference vehicle compatibility. All NSXs actually used the same 10PA15C compressor some are just updated with compatible seals for R134, which if you haven't already converted to R134 now might be the perfect time.
Click to expand...
So a 94+ compressor with clutch will work on my 1991 with new freon conversion? Anything else I should know when ordering a compressor?
Thanks

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
So now I'm a little confused. Looks like Denso 471-0355 works too? That's the part number on Rock Auto. But when you search for the NSX OEM Part number, it comes up with Denso 471-1174???

Need to replace my 1991 that already has R134 conversion.

The Rock Auto part at https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...nid=365&jpid=0 is Denso 471-0355

But when I do a search for 38810-P9k-E01, all of the Denso Results are 471-1174??
Thanks
 
Last edited:
The Denso compressor is generically made to suit just about every car as OEM.

You should use the one spec'd for the Legend as it has higher capacity 10PA20C vs 10PA15C
 
drew said:
The Denso compressor is generically made to suit just about every car as OEM.

You should use the one spec'd for the Legend as it has higher capacity 10PA20C vs 10PA15C
Click to expand...

Now I'm more confused. You're saying use Denso 10PA20C? When I search for that, I only get Mercedes fitment.
 
The 10PAxxC is the body part number of the Denso compressor, not the OEMed part number. The xx is the displacement in cc, usually 20,17,15. The Legend uses the 20 because the passenger compartment is bigger and has a little more parasitic engine draw than the 15c which is used on the Integra and NSX (more sporty, immediate comfort not as much an issue).

If you dig a little deeper into the RockAuto description it will also indicate the 10PAxxC Denso part. That compressor body is used on just about everything made in the last 30 years...crazy how prevalent.

The specific part number you are chasing down is for the installed clutch pulley type and, sometimes, the hose hookups. A new OEM Japanese 10PAxxC compressor isn't that expensive and you just transfer your clutch and, if different, hose hookups.

FYI: The Chinese have managed to make exact copies of this compressor and can make a new one cheaper than a rebuilt one. Also, the Denso ones may get rebuilt with lesser components.
 
Last edited:
drew said:
The 10PAxxC is the body part number of the Denso compressor, not the OEMed part number. The xx is the displacement in cc, usually 20,17,15. The Legend uses the 20 because the passenger compartment is bigger and has a little more parasitic engine draw than the 15c which is used on the Integra and NSX (more sporty, immediate comfort not as much an issue).

If you dig a little deeper into the RockAuto description it will also indicate the 10PAxxC Denso part. That compressor body is used on just about everything made in the last 30 years...crazy how prevalent.

The specific part number you are chasing down is for the installed clutch pulley type and, sometimes, the hose hookups. A new OEM Japanese 10PAxxC compressor isn't that expensive and you just transfer your clutch and, if different, hose hookups.
Click to expand...

Now I understand what you mean. My local AC shop suggested I not change my pulley if at all possible. They say it requires changing the housing for the pulley to match the compressor.

You're saying only buy the denso 10PA20C Compressor without a clutch? And re-use my current clutch/pulley/belt/hoses?
 
>You're saying only buy the Denso 10PA20C Compressor without a clutch?

Buy whatever is most cost effective. If there are some NOS compressors for some model of car that is no more on eBay/Amazon, then get that one and swap out your specific parts (pulley and hose hookups).

I'm sure there are cars that don't use a Denso compressor in the last 30 years, but I'm having a hard time thinking of a single example.

> And re-use my current clutch/pulley/belt/hoses?

Yes. In fact, you must use the same spec pulley and hoses or you will be in for a Big Project, and I'm pretty sure you don't want a Big Project.

Reusing a pulley requires a special pulley holding tool or an impact wrench.
 
drew said:
>You're saying only buy the Denso 10PA20C Compressor without a clutch?

Buy whatever is most cost effective. If there are some NOS compressors for some model of car that is no more on eBay/Amazon, then get that one and swap out your specific parts (pulley and hose hookups).

I'm sure there are cars that don't use a Denso compressor in the last 30 years, but I'm having a hard time thinking of a single example.

> And re-use my current clutch/pulley/belt/hoses?

Yes. In fact, you must use the same spec pulley and hoses or you will be in for a Big Project, and I'm pretty sure you don't want a Big Project.

Reusing a pulley requires a special pulley holding tool or an impact wrench.
Click to expand...

Got it. Thank you very much
 
My AC Repair guy said to order the Desno 471-1421. This is 1991 NSX Oem fitment. This one is for R12 Freon, but he said he would just change the oil in it.
Any input before I buy it?

I totally get the larger CC, his point is that my clutch is 30 years old, why would I replace all of this and just use my old clutch.
Anyone possibly know the Denso With Clutch model number to replace the one in my 1991 but is already R134 rated?
 
The refrigerant is pretty much a non-issue. Yes, the seals are different because the R-134a molecule is much smaller, but existing oil impregnated o-rings seem to have no problem. AFAIK there is no upgraded vanes to compensate for the higher pressures that R-134a puts out. So for all intents and purposes the R12 parts work just fine with R-134a.

Just make sure your shop is buying a quality JP re/made part. An Even Bigger Project will be to clear Black Death from your A/C system in the event of an internal failure; do you do not want this at all.

I recommend you keep your OEM compressor and clutch just in case there is an issue. At least have them extract the pulley and hookups if space is an issue. The compressor is quite simple to rebuild yourself depending on the type of failure.

I rarely overrule boots on the ground. My only issue is that generally used OEM is often superior to new aftermarket.
 

Similar threads

crxguy52
How to tell if AC clutch is bad?
Replies
2
Views
830
crxguy52
crxguy52
A
Please help with A/C part numbers
Replies
4
Views
1K
Larry Bastanza
Larry Bastanza
D
FS: *new* 94 NSX A/C Compressor
Replies
0
Views
749
dustin
D
M
A/C leak
Replies
1
Views
1K
Briank
Briank
Back
Top