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Almost impossible to shift -- when engine is started?!

Joined
3 September 2011
Messages
755
Location
Northville MI
I've suddenly run into a problem with my 91 NSX. The manual trans is suddenly very difficult to shift. The strange thing is that when the engine is off, shifting is fine; once the engine is started, I have to force it into each gear. As a result, I am not driving the car.

This seemed to come on all of a sudden. I took the car on a local cruise Saturday night and all was fine. Sunday this issue showed up. The clutch fluid was a little low; I topped it off but no change.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
I had the same problem you discribing with my first 92 NSX Coupe and turn out it cause by snap ring :frown:.
 
i thought 92 didnt have snap ring issues
 
Clutch would be my guess
 
Has the end play in your clutch pedal increased?

If you are in gear and moving, if you blip the throttle does the shifter move fore-aft?

The symptom you describe is the clutch not disengaging properly.

If both of the above answers is "no", you most likely have broken a clutch spring on the disk and it will be time for a clutch. How many miles?

Regards,
LarryB
 
If larry said you need to stick your tounge out during shifting to correct the problem I would do it.

Larry is GOD.:smile:
 
Could it be the clutch master sealings going bad, causing a small leak past the piston, causing the clutch not disengaging properly?

Would be easier and cheaper to fix than a new clutch :wink:
 
None of this sounds good. Shoot....

Car is a 91 and has 74k of miles. I am not original owner but I believe snap ring has been dealt with in the past. It does have a replacement clutch (non-OEM, cannot recall the brand off the top of my head).

Larry, I did not notice the shifter moving upon a "blip" of the accerator. Maybe it is the springs....

Sounds like I better tow or nurse it to someone who has their act together....
 
None of this sounds good. Shoot....

Car is a 91 and has 74k of miles. I am not original owner but I believe snap ring has been dealt with in the past. It does have a replacement clutch (non-OEM, cannot recall the brand off the top of my head).

Larry, I did not notice the shifter moving upon a "blip" of the accerator. Maybe it is the springs....

Sounds like I better tow or nurse it to someone who has their act together....

Sorry I forgot to add, the blip test needs to be in 1st or 2nd gear;). If the shifter does not move, then the snap-ring is OK. The end play on the clutch should be 1-7mm, although I find most of them to be more like 20mm. The key here is has it changed dramatically from before to after the issue.

HTH,
LarryB
 
I'm guessing clutch master cylinder from the OP's description.
 
None of this sounds good. Shoot....

Car is a 91 and has 74k of miles. I am not original owner but I believe snap ring has been dealt with in the past. It does have a replacement clutch (non-OEM, cannot recall the brand off the top of my head).

Larry, I did not notice the shifter moving upon a "blip" of the accerator. Maybe it is the springs....

Sounds like I better tow or nurse it to someone who has their act together....



Oh yea, and i also had a broking springs :frown:. Im pretty sure you had the same problem that i did. Snap ring, broken springs. I end up replace a complete brand new clutch and replaced the ring. Everything was all good again. Cost me over $2k back in 2003 :frown:

Hope this help and good luck with fixing the problem.
 
1. answer Larrys question.
2check clutch master for leaking fluid inside car
3check clutch slave cyl. for leaks
4 have someone lightly pump clutch pedal and then completely depress pedal, check to see if it creeps back
5. hopefully you have a fluid problem ,if it is a clutch or tranny problem you would be wise to change the m/c &slave cyl at the same time, good luck
 
Last edited:
1. answer Larrys question.
2check clutch master for leaking fluid inside car
3check clutch slave cyl. for leaks
4 have someone lightly pump clutch pedal and then completely depress pedal, check to see if it creeps back
5. hopefully you have a fluid problem ,if it is a clutch or tranny problem you would be wise to change the m/c &slave cyl at the same time, good luck

Thx for the post Ralph! Issue solved.

As I mentioned in the OP, I had added a little clutch fluid the night that the problem originated. I checked several times this week, and the level remained the same (and no leaks on the floor or in the car), but no improvement to shifting either.

Then, did your step 4 above.... and noticed improvement. Did it several times, and it's again shifting like silk. Just came back from a spirited 10 mile jaunt! Maybe there was some "air" in the line that had to be pumped out? Just a theory. Checked the fluid level and saw no change after the ride.

And Larry, with the blip test, the shifter doesn't move a bit in either 1st or 2nd.... that's great news too.

Thx all for the help. The good news is I spent about 12 cents in brake fluid to repair the problem. Too bad all of life's solutions aren't so simple and inexpensive.
 
Thx for the post Ralph! Issue solved.

As I mentioned in the OP, I had added a little clutch fluid the night that the problem originated. I checked several times this week, and the level remained the same (and no leaks on the floor or in the car), but no improvement to shifting either.

Then, did your step 4 above.... and noticed improvement. Did it several times, and it's again shifting like silk. Just came back from a spirited 10 mile jaunt! Maybe there was some "air" in the line that had to be pumped out? Just a theory. Checked the fluid level and saw no change after the ride.

And Larry, with the blip test, the shifter doesn't move a bit in either 1st or 2nd.... that's great news too.

Thx all for the help. The good news is I spent about 12 cents in brake fluid to repair the problem. Too bad all of life's solutions aren't so simple and inexpensive.

I'm sorry to say that you have probably not fixed the problem. If it was air in the system, it's still there. You need to bleed the system to get it out. It's probably the clutch master leaking. I would strongly advise you to get a new master and slave. They're inexpensive parts and it's a DIY. Get a clutch damper delete kit too while you're at it :smile:

Otherwise I think you're problem will return. Soon.

Good luck!
 
I'm sorry to say that you have probably not fixed the problem. If it was air in the system, it's still there. You need to bleed the system to get it out. It's probably the clutch master leaking. I would strongly advise you to get a new master and slave. They're inexpensive parts and it's a DIY. Get a clutch damper delete kit too while you're at it :smile:

Otherwise I think you're problem will return. Soon.

Good luck!

+1, Clutch fluid does not just disappear. I would check more closely for leaks in the master and slave.
 
If this is the case then the pedal end play was different then original:). Time to look above the clutch pedal since based on that your master is leaking. If the slave was leaking you would know, becasue you would see it on the ground. The master makes fluid flow under the drivers side carpet;).

Depending on how bad the leak is, this could last a few months......

HTH,
LarryB
 
Ugh... it helps! Will look for leaks!
 
1.happy to hear it is not the tranny or clutch
2 . As Mr Goat posted you have not solved the problem,only affected the condition.
3. I would replace the clutch m/c & slave cyl.
4. If I had to guess Iwould say the problem is in the Compensating port of the m/c. This is a tiny port at the internal base of the m/c resorvoir that allows the fluid to enter the m/c . The fact that you lightly pumped it and got results indicates this blockage .
 
Bled today... But there is in fact mc leakage. :(
 
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