Anyone else have multiple tire problems with Potenza RE070?

[NSX1145]

I have had so many problems with these tires after so little time it's frustrating...

I bought a set of 4 Bridgestone Potenza RE070 off tire rack about a year ago. I've driven maybe 4,000 miles on them, smooth highways, never tracked, regularly checking tire pressure etc. then one day I pull into the local Honda dealer for some parts and bam flat tire. Right on the service drive I have a blowout. No noises, warnings or indications of any tire issue until I get there and park. The technician thoroughly checks the tires, says he has no idea what caused the blowout. I replace the tire since they tell me Bridgestone probably won't warranty the tire. We leave it at that.
2 weeks later I'm doing a routine oil change and checking the car over like I always have done, discover the tire on the other side (now with about. 4200 miles) has 2 massive bubbles in the sidewall! I know I haven't been anywhere on bad roads or hitting potholes curbs burnouts etc. so, I have to order in another tire and replace that one. Went back to the dealership and yet again they tell me that Bridgestone probably won't do anything about the tire defect since bubbles are "typically" caused by bumps or holes in the road, but I know for a fact I haven't hit anything...they will just blame it on road hazard or something. Both incidents happened on the rear tires.

Is it just me or Is Bridgestone tires not what they used to be? These tires aren't cheap and I've never owned a brand of tires that gave me so many issues far before the tire was "worn" out, I mean these tires all had over 60% or better tread left! What a waste...probably the last time I spend big money with Bridgestone...

 

[jadatis]

Registered to this forum to give you information. Live in Holland and once got hold of the formula that the European tyre makers use to determine advice pressures for cars , and went running with it. learned myself Excell to make spreadsheets for it and found out many things about tires in my search for information.

It is possible that your pressures where to low to laws of nature, and this courced the tire-damage. The heat generated by the electric motor and transported trough the rimms could have given the last push. together with severe braking wich also heats up the tire inside.
Your tires are probably low aspect ratio tires ( shortened AR= Hight widht division), and those are to high given in their maximum load on the sidewall.
A thing we users are not allowed to know, but now you do.
Also In America the calculation for tire-pressure for lower then maximum load was wrong before 2006 , then American TRA swiched over to the calculation of European ETRTO but only for P-tires/standardload and XL/Extraload/Reinforced. But there are still many old lists to be found on the internet with the wrong calculation.

This means that if you have those low AR tires , the pressure needs to be verry high to give the tires a deflection that is save for them at the speed you drive.

To yudge all this, I need some data of your car and tires.
From car GAWR ( gross axle weight rating) front and rear.
maximum speed or speed you sertainly wont go over in your use.
Camber angle , mostly done for rear tires , then wheels like this on the axle seen from behind /-\ instead of |-|.
And for determining the axle loads in your use , the Empty weight of car, GVWR ( gross vehicle weight rating).
And the way you load it normaly, like number of persons and load.

From tires next.
Excact sises , example 235/40 ZR 18 XL 91W
Maximum load or loadindex ( that 91 in example)
speedcode wich stands for maximum speed of tire ( W in example stands for maximum speed of 270km/??m/h).
Kind of tire ( XL in example stands for that XL written above and has a maxloadpressure of 41psi/2.8bar for American tires if not given P-tire with 35psi/2,5 bar)

With these data I can calculate a save lowest pressure for the tires , comfort and gripp can be lost totally for low AR then but savety first.

- - - Updated - - -

Registered to this forum to give you information. Live in Holland and once got hold of the formula that the European tyre makers use to determine advice pressures for cars , and went running with it. learned myself Excell to make spreadsheets for it and found out many things about tires in my search for information.

It is possible that your pressures where to low to laws of nature, and this courced the tire-damage. The heat generated by the electric motor and transported trough the rimms could have given the last push. together with severe braking wich also heats up the tire inside.
Your tires are probably low aspect ratio tires ( shortened AR= Hight widht division), and those are to high given in their maximum load on the sidewall.
A thing we users are not allowed to know, but now you do.
Also In America the calculation for tire-pressure for lower then maximum load was wrong before 2006 , then American TRA swiched over to the calculation of European ETRTO but only for P-tires/standardload and XL/Extraload/Reinforced. But there are still many old lists to be found on the internet with the wrong calculation.

This means that if you have those low AR tires , the pressure needs to be verry high to give the tires a deflection that is save for them at the speed you drive.

To yudge all this, I need some data of your car and tires.
From car GAWR ( gross axle weight rating) front and rear.
maximum speed or speed you sertainly wont go over in your use.
Camber angle , mostly done for rear tires , then wheels like this on the axle seen from behind /-\ instead of |-|.
And for determining the axle loads in your use , the Empty weight of car, GVWR ( gross vehicle weight rating).
And the way you load it normaly, like number of persons and load.

From tires next.
Excact sises , example 235/40 ZR 18 XL 91W
Maximum load or loadindex ( that 91 in example)
speedcode wich stands for maximum speed of tire ( W in example stands for maximum speed of 270km/??m/h).
Kind of tire ( XL in example stands for that XL written above and has a maxloadpressure of 41psi/2.8bar for American tires if not given P-tire with 35psi/2,5 bar)

With these data I can calculate a save lowest pressure for the tires , comfort and gripp can be lost totally for low AR then but savety first.

 

[Vanishing Point]

What is the date of manufacture coded on the sidewall? I would contact TireRack and see what they say, especially in regard to the bubbling which Bridgestone may prorate for you. I have several sets of those tires (non NSX) and have never had an issue at all.

Aging a tire by sidewall coding:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11&

 

[Hapa88]

What are your alignment specs? If you have the factory 91-93 alignment, you should only get 4000- 5000 miles on a set of rear tires (where the inside edge wears do to the camber and high toe-in settings).

 

[NSX1145]

Tein S-Techs, with OEM alignment specs. After the mileage I have, I still have plenty of tread on the inside.