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Baffled oil pan

John,
I don't think Rob's design is worthwhile without the hinged doors. With that in mind, I have some off the shelf hinged partitions used for small block chevys coming. Should be here by Friday so we will have something to look at this weekend...here comes stage II:wink:

Very cool dave, thanks for the info. I am looking into adding one as well to my car too.

Thanks
MAtt
 
I'll just need a basic baffle, and will be tapping for an accusump with no further plans to pursue the dry sump this season.

Where do you stop improving is an infinite moving line. The dry sump would be a nice addition but will be a difficult install if you want a 3-stage pump or larger. Even if you locate the pump where the AC was, there’s not much depth before you run into headers. Then there’s hose routing in that area and room for plumbing the pan, or placing the reservoir that is supposed to be above the engine. Drive belt modifications, hose and fitting costs, and you still need the oil cooling. I’m not knocking a dry sump, I would rather have one then what I have now. The deficiencies can be solved with an OE style pump, but this is also expensive and work intensive.

The oiling system:
Starts with the valve cover mod on early engines.
Removing both valve covers
Removing both valve cover baffles
Tapping both covers for fittings
Adding a bulkhead fitting to one cover
Replacing the baffles
Replacing the covers
Making the hoses to connect both covers
Installing a breather
Making a hose to go from the top of the front cover to the breather
Removing the oil pump
Ordering a new pump housing (or live with the used housing)
Ordering new and improved oil pump gears
Building, Checking and installing the pump assembly
Replacing all the O-rings for oil transfer and maybe your pick-up depending on the history of the engine.
Removing the oil pan
Developing a baffle system for the pan
Buying an oil filter relocation adaptor and installing it
Buying an oil cooler and installing it
Buying an Accusump and installing it
Buying a remote filter adaptor with flow control and installing it (C&R)
Cut some holes in your NSX
Make 12AN hoses to go from the adaptor to a “T” fitting
From the “T” to the filter housing
From the other “T” to the Accusump
From the Filter housing to the cooler
From the cooler back to the filter housing
From the filter housing back to the engine
In my case from the Oil cooler to water
From water back to the oil cooler

This is a good example of why racecars get so expensive; this setup would cost you over $4000 to duplicate if you did the labor yourself.

No real point, just information-
 
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John,
When you come down I have all the valve cover work done for my car, plus a catch can with a return drain going back to the oil pan. I have opted to remove all the valve cover baffles and just let the oil flow back to the pan freely. Filtered breather on front valve cover and a filtered breather on the catch can.

Pretty simple system and I save the weight of those steel baffle plates...:wink:

Dave
 
John,
When you come down I have all the valve cover work done for my car, plus a catch can with a return drain going back to the oil pan. I have opted to remove all the valve cover baffles and just let the oil flow back to the pan freely. Filtered breather on front valve cover and a filtered breather on the catch can.

Pretty simple system and I save the weight of those steel baffle plates...:wink:

Dave


Dave,

Lately you’re the most active NSX R&D guy, so I’m going to plant a seed with you:

Most people on this forum likely know about the valve cover/oil drain issue. (By the way with the mod as I described it, you never get oil in the breather so it doesn’t need to drain back) But the oil pan fitting tied to the breather may be beneficial for other reasons…

It’s my contention that blow-by or even worse boosted blow-by can pressurize the crankcase at a faster rate then exhausted through the (normal) breather. This pressure is counter productive against the bottoms of the pistons and this depletes horsepower. The other side effect is that this pressure probably slows the flow of oil back down to the oil pan. When in VTEC oil spews out the rocker shafts and starts to fill the valve covers, the same passages that would relive the crank case pressure out the breather or PCV, are used to flow the oil back to the pan. If your in extended VTEC (As I always try to do when racing), the valve covers will consume the majority of the oil, if crank case pressure is slowing the flow back then the problem will worsen the longer your in VTEC.

Your tapped oil pan to breather would help relive that crank case pressure. And maybe one day you can experiment with an aftermarket vacuum pump. These pumps have been proven to increase HP in high-end drag cars, and should help our oil flow.
 
Dave,

Lately you’re the most active NSX R&D guy, so I’m going to plant a seed with you:

Most people on this forum likely know about the valve cover/oil drain issue. (By the way with the mod as I described it, you never get oil in the breather so it doesn’t need to drain back) But the oil pan fitting tied to the breather may be beneficial for other reasons…

It’s my contention that blow-by or even worse boosted blow-by can pressurize the crankcase at a faster rate then exhausted through the (normal) breather. This pressure is counter productive against the bottoms of the pistons and this depletes horsepower. The other side effect is that this pressure probably slows the flow of oil back down to the oil pan. When in VTEC oil spews out the rocker shafts and starts to fill the valve covers, the same passages that would relive the crank case pressure out the breather or PCV, are used to flow the oil back to the pan. If your in extended VTEC (As I always try to do when racing), the valve covers will consume the majority of the oil, if crank case pressure is slowing the flow back then the problem will worsen the longer your in VTEC.

Your tapped oil pan to breather would help relive that crank case pressure. And maybe one day you can experiment with an aftermarket vacuum pump. These pumps have been proven to increase HP in high-end drag cars, and should help our oil flow.

I have a AN-8 fitting in the pan, let's see if it works...sure sounds like it can't help but make the situation better!
 
This all sounds awesome. I am really looking forward to laps where my oil pressure gauge doesn't drop to zero at the top of 4th.

I wouldn't have even considered pursuing a dry sump project, as I recall one S2000 guy ran up about a 10 grand tab on a complete setup.... but there was a member here on prime, I mentioned some Moroso parts to... in turn Tony (Goatroper02) claimed to have a working dry sump system on his own vehicle, which perked my interest.

Unfortunately I did not follow back-up, so it ended up on the back burner; likely just as well- unneccessary, and I've already spent the majority of my go-fast budget this year on safety.
 
Final shot...Let me know if any one want one, I will be doing the next batch in about 2 weeks.

This shows the Teflon coated pan and stock baffle, will help shed oil and get the oil back to the bottom of the pan as quick as possible.

Bringing this one back out of the NSX Prime mothball fleet! Dave, can you still do this? I'm about to pull my oil pan and wanted to install the baffle, internal teflon coat and a plug for an oil temp sensor. Have you revised the baffle depth at all?
 
Honcho,
I have baffle plates($38 shipped) in stock and have a pan I can do mods on, powdercoat and send out for exchange. I no longer have a source for Teflon coating...those guys closed down and no one has come in to fill the gap. You can e-mail me at '[email protected]' so set up your purchase.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Where do you stop improving is an infinite moving line. The dry sump would be a nice addition but will be a difficult install if you want a 3-stage pump or larger. Even if you locate the pump where the AC was, there’s not much depth before you run into headers. Then there’s hose routing in that area and room for plumbing the pan, or placing the reservoir that is supposed to be above the engine. Drive belt modifications, hose and fitting costs, and you still need the oil cooling. I’m not knocking a dry sump, I would rather have one then what I have now. The deficiencies can be solved with an OE style pump, but this is also expensive and work intensive.

The oiling system:
Starts with the valve cover mod on early engines.
Removing both valve covers
Removing both valve cover baffles
Tapping both covers for fittings
Adding a bulkhead fitting to one cover
Replacing the baffles
Replacing the covers
Making the hoses to connect both covers
Installing a breather
Making a hose to go from the top of the front cover to the breather
Removing the oil pump
Ordering a new pump housing (or live with the used housing)
Ordering new and improved oil pump gears
Building, Checking and installing the pump assembly
Replacing all the O-rings for oil transfer and maybe your pick-up depending on the history of the engine.
Removing the oil pan
Developing a baffle system for the pan
Buying an oil filter relocation adaptor and installing it
Buying an oil cooler and installing it
Buying an Accusump and installing it
Buying a remote filter adaptor with flow control and installing it (C&R)
Cut some holes in your NSX
Make 12AN hoses to go from the adaptor to a “T” fitting
From the “T” to the filter housing
From the other “T” to the Accusump
From the Filter housing to the cooler
From the cooler back to the filter housing
From the filter housing back to the engine
In my case from the Oil cooler to water
From water back to the oil cooler

This is a good example of why racecars get so expensive; this setup would cost you over $4000 to duplicate if you did the labor yourself.

No real point, just information-
This is why I'm developing a bolt-on dry sump system for the NSX that retains AC that fixes all of these concerns.
 
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