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Best leather treatment I've ever used !!

Personally I prefer a ph balanced leather conditioner that matches the ph of the leather.

How do you know the pH of our leather?

I'm sure somewhere on horse forums they have endless threads on "Which conditioners are best for my saddle," similar to our "Which oil is best for my engine?" :biggrin:
 
How do you know the pH of our leather?



Didn't I read somewhere in this forum that NXS seats don't respond to leather conditioners because they have a clear coating on them from the factory??

I very carefully cleaned my 95 tan interior when I first bought it 4 years ago... and yes... it looks like its rarely ever been sat in... but I would hate to think I missed 4 years of lovingly rubbing in conditioner!!!
 
I've used saddle soap found at Wal-mart and with pretty good results. Then just go over it a few days later with whatever brand you prefer for smell and or PH preference.
 
In December I rubbed in a liberal amount of this conditioner to let it soak in good over the winter hibernation. There have been a few nice days of driving weather here recently, so I used a clean cloth to wipe everything off and use the car. There was little-to-no red residue this time, and the leather seats feel very nice. No more slipping around as much.

I like this stuff.
 
Hi all,

I've just received my can of Ko-Cho-Line leather treatment in the mail from Amazon. I will do a before and after result in the spring and post them here, I've also heard great things about this product.

cheers
 
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It's OK. I've used it on past cars.

This is the best spray on leather solution I have used in a decade:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/303-3021...-Restorer-and-UV-Protectant-16-fl-oz/51985392

I have been using Lexol for awhile now, and find it works alright. I just found a place to get some of the 303 leather treatment, so I am going to give it a try based on your recommendation BATMANs. I've been using 303 protectant for many years on vinyl, plastic, and rubber. It has kept the top on the S2000 in great shape for over nineteen years. Works good on tires too. Doesn't stay on all that long, but is quick and easy, and doesn't look too like you smeared bacon fat on your tires. A lot of tire products are oil based, which is not great for rubber. The one thing that I may miss using the 303 leather treatment, is that Lexol seems to keep that nice leather smell going in what are now old cars. Apparently the 303 leather spray has no smell.:frown:
 
I use a two step process

First step is Doc Baileys Leather detailing treatment:

https://www.amazon.com/Doc-Baileys-...2&sr=8-1&keywords=doc+brown+leather+treatment

The second step is Mink Oil

I do this every winter before putting the NSX under cover. My leather looks brand new. When I first got the car I repaired several small holes and imperfections using a leather repair kit. Black leather is the easiest to work on.

View attachment 158004

Thinking about the doc baileys treatment... how long do you let it dry ? Also what mink oil are you using and do you apply it after the leathee treatment is completely dry? Thanks
 
Usually I let it dry overnight. I apply the mink oil after that and also let that dry.

I've also used the Doc Browns alone. Usually I let it dry for about an hour then you have to buff it with a soft cloth.

I only use the Mink oil during the winter when I can let it sit and absorb in for a while.
 
Usually I let it dry overnight. I apply the mink oil after that and also let that dry.

I've also used the Doc Browns alone. Usually I let it dry for about an hour then you have to buff it with a soft cloth.

I only use the Mink oil during the winter when I can let it sit and absorb in for a while.

Thanks. I think im going to go for it.
 
Just a little heads up on the mink oil thing. Mink oil is rendered from mink fat so make sure you apply it in your garage so that the PETA people can't see you doing this, otherwise you might initiate a small flash protest.

Now to the more serious bit. Mink oil is about the most unsaturated of the animal fats; but, does appear to have better long term stability than other unsaturated fats. However, it can go 'off'. This might not be so noticeable on a pair of boots; but, might be more odorous in an enclosed space like an NSX. As it turns out, most mink oil products are not pure mink oil and may contain lanolin and various silicon based products which reduce / eliminate the rancidness issue. Just something to be aware of when shopping for the product - more rather than less mink oil may be better.

I have used beeswax based products. There are a number of different vendors / variations. The downside is that they take longer to absorb (some a lot longer than others - think sno seal) and some of them definitely need some serious buffing to remove residue. They will leave a very slight polish on the leather.
 
Thanks

I just wanted to thank everyone for putting their experiences in here. There is lots of information here to look over. It can be quite daunting trying to find something yourself.
 
folks, im a new owner of a 91 red with ivory interior;;; ive been addicted to watching detailing videos for weeks now and then decided to look on the forum and saw this awesome thread!! what are your thoughts on using the Coach-o-line (the red one) on the ivory interior. do you think it would taint the color of the ivory leather?
 
folks, im a new owner of a 91 red with ivory interior;;; ive been addicted to watching detailing videos for weeks now and then decided to look on the forum and saw this awesome thread!! what are your thoughts on using the Coach-o-line (the red one) on the ivory interior. do you think it would taint the color of the ivory leather?

Congratulations!

If it doesn't tint the leather or pleather then it would probably tint the stitching. Especially if you got a glob on the stitching. On my black interior it was fine. But, I personally wouldn't try it on the ivory.
 
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Thanks bud

Totally get it possibly avoided a big mistake there

For now I’ll go with dr Beasley unless you have a better recommendation
 
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