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blue plastic brake stopper

Joined
13 April 2005
Messages
34
Hello all does anyone know the part# for the blue plastic brake stopper found it on the floor and brake lights stays on cant seem to find it in all that diagrams of parts also my clutch one is missing as well does that matter not sure how long thats been gone some info would be nice thanks.
 
I had this same issue one month ago. Quick fix, go to local parts store or hardware and get a plastic grommet the same diameter as the hole and push it in. Make sure it pushes in very snug so it won't wobble around or work its way out. You may need to slightly adjust your stoplight switch in which is no biggie. No need to find hard to find OEM part.
 
or use a bolt that fits in the hole, put a nut on the back and NEVER EVER have to worry about it again.

common problem on honda's of all makes.
 
FWIW to everyone reading this thread. This issue is going to happen to you at some point. When this happens, the stoplamps will automatically stay on until you notice or the battery is dead. People don't realize how hot the inside of the tail lamps actually get for that long of a period and is not good for the plastic especially in a closed garage. Save yourself some possible tail lamp damage and check your grommets and change them if any doubt. My tails were blistering hot in my hot garage when I noticed and it had only been 30 minutes since I'd parked the car.
 
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but this just happened with my clutch stopper. Does it affect performance in any way? I now hear clicking every time I press my clutch in; the clicking is more towards the top.
 
There are two separate switches actuated by the clutch pedal. The top switch is the starter interlock switch. If the stopper falls out of the hole on this one, you will not be able to get the car started unless somebody has by-passed the switch with a jumper. The lower switch is for the cruise control interlock. If the stopper falls out on this one, I expect that the cruise control will not engage.

I am not sure what the clicking would be unless the switch plunger is briefly catching on the side of the hole where the stopper is supposed to be. If the clicking only occurs while the ignition key is in the run position it could be the starter cut relay that you are hearing. The starter cut relay is operated by the interlock switch on the clutch pedal.
 
Well the car definitely starts and I hear clicking whether or not the car is on.

I've never tried cruise control but I guess that may be broken now if your diagnosis is correct. It doesn't seem like this needs to be replaced with the OEM part. It sounds like a brief catch.

I'm taking my NSX to the acura tech tonight to get it looked at for other stuff. Is it worth asking them to fix it?
 
both stoppers will fail eventually so put a bolt in place of it and never ever have to worry about it again a bolt would possibly last about 276 years vs a plastic stopper which could last 9-18 years.
 
I had to bypass my clutch pedal lockout switch. I've read all the posts and am fully on board. I've read it's a pain to put a new plastic "stopper" in that upper switch. Well, getting under there, with mirrors, lights and ready to go at it gets me nowhere. I can't even get a finger to the necessary area. The question is: HOW do I put a new stopper, or possibly bolt in the now vacant hole? I just can't figure out how to get to it. Has anyone ACTUALLY done it? Thanks.
 
I was able to get to it by using a pair of long needle nose pliers and a long flat head screwdriver.

The needle nose pliers were used to get and hold the new pad/pedal stopper in position, then the flat head was used to push the stopper into the hole.
 
Hi, thanks for the response. Did you take the driver's seat out for better access? Did you lay on you're back and look up or did you use a mirror? Sounds like silly questions, but I really can't seem to put together a reasonable approach.
 
I never ended up replacing this but I did spend some time underneath the dash this weekend to clean the ignition switch. You can definitely get down there if you invert your body, but it is a bit painful. I was able to get my entire body in the car even with my bucket seats. Once you get used to it, maneuvering becomes easier. Being upside down gave me a headache though.
 
It is an act of acrobatics and contortionism.
Driver seat was still in, but taking it out would definitely give you more room to work with. I was laying on my back, I don't think using mirrors would work that well. You have to be able to see directly where your working at, and definitely figure out a way to light up the area.

And it is totally trial and error, with a lot of failed attempts.
 
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Well, we actually did it. I could never get under there, but my wife got in without us removing the seat. The problem was getting it to stay there while she applied pressure to pop it in. I wanted to share my idea which actually worked. I drilled a tiny hole right in the center of the stop. I took a piece of #24 stranded wire (I used white because my interior is black and it made it easier to see) and threaded it through the hole from the flat side and put a knot there. So, she fed the wire through the hole in the top of the clutch pedal, pulled it through with needle nose pliers. Pulling on the wire kept the conical part of the stop right up against the hole while she pushed it in, I think using the tip of the needle nose. Then we just pulled the thin wire out the front. Don't get me wrong, the whole thing is nearly impossible, but I hope this technique helps someone.
 
Well, we actually did it. I could never get under there, but my wife got in without us removing the seat. The problem was getting it to stay there while she applied pressure to pop it in. I wanted to share my idea which actually worked. I drilled a tiny hole right in the center of the stop. I took a piece of #24 stranded wire (I used white because my interior is black and it made it easier to see) and threaded it through the hole from the flat side and put a knot there. So, she fed the wire through the hole in the top of the clutch pedal, pulled it through with needle nose pliers. Pulling on the wire kept the conical part of the stop right up against the hole while she pushed it in, I think using the tip of the needle nose. Then we just pulled the thin wire out the front. Don't get me wrong, the whole thing is nearly impossible, but I hope this technique helps someone.

That was a nifty trick - what are the chance I'll remember it if mine ever drops out?
 
Another reminder for folks to replace this brittle blue brake stopper if it's original. It WILL break apart sometime. If you don't notice your brake lights are on as you walk away it will drain your battery.

My clutch switch plastic stopper was also cracked. Until I can replace it I just jumpered the wires and bypassed it. I may leave it like that if I can rig up a microswitch to determine the transmission is in neutral (or at least not in first gear) and wire in a modern keyless entry/remote start.
 
anyone have a picture of what this blue stopper looks like? i don't see any pics in this thread.

The new ones are white plastic. The Acura part # is 46505 SA5 000. Google it to find a picture - you can also find it on the "pedal' parts diagram on the Acura on-line vendor sites. The NSX has three of them (2 clutch, 1 brake). Your dealer should have them in stock because they are common to a bunch of other Honda products.
 
The new ones are white plastic. The Acura part # is 46505 SA5 000. Google it to find a picture - you can also find it on the "pedal' parts diagram on the Acura on-line vendor sites. The NSX has three of them (2 clutch, 1 brake). Your dealer should have them in stock because they are common to a bunch of other Honda products.

Thanks!
 
I've changed the blue plastic stoppers
- 1 brake pedal
- 1 clutch pedal
I've an Europe MT but only found one on the clutch pedal, not two. Anybody can confirm that the Europe version only has one? What does the 'upper' of the clutch pedal do in the US version?
 
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