bogle's 1991 mild build thread

[bogle]

A few posts back I was struggling with a weird lean condition in vacuum at 4500-5500 rpm. It looks like this:



In an effort to fix, I ended up replacing a number of parts.

Injector cleaning

I pulled the injectors and sent them off for cleaning. My thought was that it’s possible there were some chunks in the rail during install clogging up the injectors. Well they are fine. I labeled each injector then sent them to the injector shop in WA. He flow tested them and thought they were fine without cleaning.

Here’s the chart. They flow tested around 924 cc/min, which is less than the advertised 1050. He said that was normal, though, they look like all other ID1050s he’s tested. It seems his flow testing equipment is a little different than IDs. I had a set of EV14 550s tested by him and they tested low too



He refunded me a little and sent them back



Plugs / Coils

I didn’t take many pics, but I also replaced all plugs and all K coils with brand new stuff. The new coils don’t have the sticker on top



I also tested with the old foundry 3 harness, thinking maybe mine had a bad crimp or something



O2 sensors

I replaced both o2 sensors. I have AEM inline widebands. I bought them about a year apart, the sensors themselves looked pretty different, and one could have been further gone than the other.

LSU 4.9 sensors are Bosch part number 17025. I think there are a few other part numbers floating around where the variance is just wire length. I just got the 17025s. Rock auto had them cheapest at about $70 each





In the process of replacing them, i noticed that some of the wires were too close to the exhaust. One of the o2 sensors had a plastic collar on it that was sometimes touching the exhaust



The rear o2 sensor connector was too close to the exhaust, it got so hot the insulation of the exposed wire split



I clipped the tube back as far as I could, fixed the exposed bits with heat shrink, then covered all the wires with fire hose

A similar thing happened to the CAN side. Only the white wires split, whatever wire AEM used for white was lower temp than the others



I cut it way back, then totally rerouted that side.

Then more fire sleeve over everything, 1” fire sleeve over the o2 connectors, and more deliberate routing. Hopefully no more issues



I think we’re all up to date now. There’s one more big project to finish, then the car heads to the dyno end of June.

 

[bogle]

Big project in the bag: air cups. I’ve been wanting these on the car for a long time. The car isn’t that low, but I still have a mental list of gas stations and other businesses in the area that I can and can’t go to. Well, hopefully these open up the places I can take it.

Quick overview here, then I’ll get into the specifics of each step in subsequent posts

Some of the bits. I ended up with much shorter 5” front springs (vs 7” prior) and heavier rates. It’s now running 10k F / 8k R, previously 9k F / 7k R. Turns out they don’t make 9k rates in 5” length, so I went NA2 R rates



Up! I did all 4 corners. I get just over 2” of lift on the front, and just shy of 2” on the rear. This is the front



Down



In situ



1.5 gallon compressor + pump combo



In the frunk, things are tight



And I used the console switches. Top right is lift, bottom right seat toggle is hi: compressor on, low: purge compressor.



I took a lot of photos, details up next.

 

[bogle]

Okay, time for a pic dump of the air cups install process. I used a lot of ideas from the Chris Lum air cups install video. Thanks to @Chris_Lum for making that, it demystified a lot of unknowns for me.

The install was spread out over several months. I did all the wiring along with the console refresh, and had the tank and solenoid mounting figured out before I got the car running with the sos supercharger. The last piece was installing the cups on the coilovers, which I finished a couple weeks ago.

I’ve driven it a little with the cups and new spring rates, it feels great. The new rates are a little stiffer, but it’s hardly noticeable. I had to use the cups to lift the car a couple times, happy to report, no scrapage!

Air tank

First up is the tank and mounting of said tank. Obviously, I needed a tank and a pump. I have a couple things mounted in the front of the car that dictated the size of the whole system: intercooler tank, and water methanol pump: filter. The tank had to be pretty small to fit in the space, but also big enough to handle all four air cups. I read that you probably need a tank larger than 1 gallon to run four cups. The 2 gallon stanceparts / viair tanks were too wide, their 1 gallon tank was tempting, but based on the internet, too small. I landed on the 1.5 gallon Viair “air source”.



I love that it’s one unit as it solves one problem that would have burned a bunch of time: pump mounting.

With the pump mounting solved by someone else, the first problem I had to solve was tank mounting. I really wanted the whole unit not in the frunk, but the tank is pretty big, so the frunk or trunk were my only options. The frunk seemed less jank, so the frunk it was. I laid a bunch of blue tape down on the battery tray, tried a number of orientations, and marked around the mounting feet with a sharpie. I didn’t take pics of that process, closeups are all you get.

On the driver side, it matched up really nicely with a hump on the tray,



and on the passenger side, it matched up a bit with the spare tire studs



Though, for my setup, not dead on:



I ended up cutting the studs on the passenger side and drilling new holes. Then 1/2” standoffs made it pretty level



Mounted



It’s a tight fit on all sides



Purge solenoid

Small detail, I used a similar solenoid to Chris Lum on the bottom of the tank. It serves as a purge valve.



The tank comes with a petcock that you’re supposed to unscrew every now and then to let any condensation out. There is no way I would do that ever, so this. It’s wired up to the “low” side of the heated seat switch I used for the pump. I can flip the switch to purge the tank with 0 effort

Tank wiring

Wiring up the tank was a fair amount of effort. My main goal was to have a single plug for the whole thing. Goal achieved, but it took a while to get right. The one plug to the car now carries high amperage 12v, grounds, and switch signals for purge and pump on.



The plugs on the back of the tank connect everything together: the relay, pressure switch, pump, purge, etc. Big sumitomo HW090 / TS187 hybrid plugs worked well here as they have a number of small wires, then two big TS 187 blade connectors that I used for pump power and ground.



I found a plug stay that worked for the HW 090 connector and mounted it on the pump. I still need to make a bracket for the dangling TS 187 connector on the back of the pump now that I have sweet plastic stays for TS187 connectors, but it’s fine for now.

And in the car for the first time



Things are pretty tight. Here’s the driver side



And pretty tight against the intercooler tank on the passenger side too

 

[bogle]

Solenoids

Next up was mounting and wiring of the solenoids. These run air from the tank to the cups. Since I’m running four cups, I needed 2 solenoids. Spoiler: here they are on the bracket:





Like the tank, it was a bit of a process to figure out the best way and place to mount these. I wanted them to be accessible, have clean wiring, and be easy to mount and adjust. I tried 2 or 3 different mounting locations, but this bracket mounted to the ABS frame in front of the ABS unit was the best option. I made the bracket out of 1/16” first



But it was pretty flimsy with one mounting location. My dad made me one out of 1/8” along with the water methanol tank fittings



I sent him this jank drawing



Test fit



Wiring

The solenoids have these 1/4” blades, and stanceparts supplied basic hardware store blade connectors.



But that’s not ideal, these are standard industrial solenoids which should have proper connectors. These particular solenoids take 3 prong “Form B” connectors. A lot of industrial supply places sell them, the challenge being finding a place where you can buy 2 without paying $30 in shipping.



And wired up in parallel



On the solenoids



Finishing up

Mounted, wired and ready to go in



From the bottom, drivers side of the car. The line coming in is from the tank



Then from the tank, this tee line feeds into the fittings on top of the solenoids. This is air “in”



And mounted from the top with the lines in place



Finally, the plugs. I used the ABS connector plug stays. With the upgraded ABS none of those connectors are necessary. I pulled the ABS plugs off, shrink tubed them all, then hid them in the harness. The plugs here are: air tank (big one on top), solenoids (bottom left) and water methanol level sensor (bottom right).

 

[Chris_Lum]

I LOVE it!! You did such a good job!! I'm glad my video could help because there's SO MUCH more to it than the Stanceparts installation manual leads you to believe. The harness is a beast since everyone will ultimately want to do it their own way (switches, remote purge, connector types, functionality, etc.).Your install is super clean. Tight fit with all the stuff you have in the front too--you measured well.

Also, funny on timing. I just finished converting my cup kit to tankless today. I've been wanting to run a duct for the Type R hood vent so I wanted to shrink down the setup. I spent probably 10 hours on a brand new harness. Although the harness is simpler for a tankless setup since there's no more purge or separate compressor on/off, I took a long time because I was trying to learn from all my mistakes the first time around. I tried to incorporate as many OEM style plugs as possible, along with a 3 pin jumper harness to grab ACC power off the cigarette lighter without splicing.

Great job again, top notch install.

 

[bogle]

Thanks! Yeah there was a lot to it, each part of the project was super time consuming. The wiring was a lot of work, I don’t have many great pics of the wiring effort, but like everything in this project, it took a lot of time to make it good.

That’s cool on the tankless pump. Is it still pretty quick to raise the car? Looking forward to seeing the pics/vid

Love me a jumper that avoids cutting wires. And yay on the oem plugs. I use DTM connectors for the CAN bus in the car, but everything else is OEM sumitomo. I keep a good size box with a ton of extra connectors in the garage just in case.

I also had dreams of someday running a duct, but I may have to let that go

 

[bogle]

Small wiring bits

A couple last small wiring details. I’m running constant 12v to the air tank. I wanted a fuse, and didn’t want to tie it directly to the battery. I used an add-a-circuit fuse tap in the front fusebox. It’s the wire here snaking through the box



Add a circuit taps look like this



The pump draws max 20 amps, I found the biggest add-a-circuit I could: 30amp 12awg. I wanted to use this circuit for the solenoids, purge, the water meth pump, and any other little stuff that needed constant 12v. Most of that will never be on at the same time, the only two being solenoids (iirc max 2A each) and the pump.

I ran the add-a-circuit into a little fusebox I had laying around and mounted it on the firewall



One of those outputs runs to the big air tank plug on the passenger side and feeds the air tank stuff



In the console, I have a couple mini relays for the solenoids and navpod. One 12v wire runs from the new little fusebox into the console and powers those little relays. A pic in progress



Bottom right are all the switch plugs, then in the center, the black blocks are relay receptacles (hard to see). The 6 pin grey plug goes to a harness that runs into the frunk to feed the solenoids and purge, big translucent connectors are my console power and ground distribution blocks. I should probably share a schematic, but all I have is poorly hand drawn schematics on post-its

Line Routing

I don’t have great pics here, you may have to stare at them a while before they make sense. But maybe they help someone who is in the throes of the install.

The “out” ports on the solenoids are on the bottom of the units



And here it all is in the car





Then the front tee that runs to each front wheel



And the line runs out the brake line port in the wheel well



For the rears, the line runs through the tunnel and into a tee right in front of the gas tank



Both sides wrap around the gas tank



Then up into the engine bay



Once in the engine bay, I had them follow the brake lines as closely as possible, then again, out of the brake line ports in the wheel wells

 

[Honcho]

Love this, @Bogle. It's really well thought out and almost OEM-like in design. Also nice to see those MCS shocks in there.

 

[bogle]

Thanks! Yeah I love the MCS coilovers. They feel great even on bumpy roads with the 10/8k setup.

Cup install

Air cup home stretch here. The last unit of work was installing the cups on the dampers.

The first step here is buying the right cups. My MCS coilovers (and JRZ I think) have 16mm shafts. That is, the smooth part of the shaft is 16mm, so I had to get 16mm cups



Skipping a bunch of swearing, I got the fronts out. With a towel and the impact gun, I zipped the top nuts off and the fronts were apart



First thing you may notice is that the new springs are 2” shorter than the old (5” vs 7”). The 7” springs were too long, they made it so the lower perches were so low that they interfered with the upper A arm and made it very annoying to adjust the heights. If I were running without the cups, I would have wanted a 6” spring to fix that issue. Then the cups take up about 16mm of spring height (30mm cups - 14mm of top hat changes you’ll see later), which made me land on 5” front springs. I was running 9k front rates, but the softest swift makes 5” springs is 10k, so 10k it was.

Top hats

Before having everything apart, it was unclear to me exactly how the cups interact with the shaft and the top hats. What parts of my original top hat did I need? Did I use the stock upper spring perch? On the original assembly, the upper spring perch is part of the top hat assembly. That is, it is fixed to the top of the shaft, even if there is no spring, it moves with the top hat



But the cups just ride on the shaft, they could slide all the way down if the spring didn’t prevent it. I don’t need the original upper perches, the cups serve as the upper spring perch, but the whole assembly is floating. This makes sense now, but initially, I thought some part of the cup would be fixed to the top hat as well.

At first, I used all the washers and the original top hat bushing like this.



In the original setup, that skinny bottom bushing was holding the upper spring perch. I realized I didn’t need it at all, and just used the top hat washers



This also reclaims a bit (9mm) of shock travel, which could be good. The downside is that the shafts peek above the cowl a little more. Good news is that they don’t hit the hood, even with the adjustment wheels on there



On the rear, I did the same, and, while very close to stuff, fortunately the adjusters don’t interfere with anything



Helpers

The stance cups act as upper spring perches for 60mm ID springs. My swift springs are 60mm ID, so I assumed the helper springs were as well. Turns out, nope, they are 58mm, and they didn’t seat in the cups



I hemmed and hawed, do I buy new 60mm helpers? Which ones do I get? Do I need new spacers too? Will they change travel or some other property? I also had limited time and everything was already apart. I decided to just dremel off the 2mm in diameter on the top of each helper. Not ideal, but it worked



Bumpstops and boots

MCS coilovers don’t come with bumpstops or dust boots. It’s a whole thing. They are apparently designed in a way that does not need either. MCS doesn’t sell bumpstops or boots, shops that build these things don’t include or sell them, and even their website says you don’t need them. But it still felt a little wrong to have neither. So I bought JRZ bumpstops and boots



I cut one of the bumpstops down and test fit everything



I realized I didn’t know how much travel I really had and if/where the bumpstops would come into play. On the dust boots, they felt like they would bind on the bodies, even if I cut them down, and they needed the bumpstops to mount properly. Also, depending on how much the boots did bind on the bodies, it’s possible that the bumpstops would ride low on the shaft and negate any benefit the boots had by exposing the top of the shaft. Ultimately I decided to commit to the bootless, bumpstopless MCS world. So, yolo, we’ll see how they hold up over time.

 

[bogle]

Fronts

Ohkay, before



These things are too long up front. They should be an inch shorter, all in. Getting them in and out is pain. This was 30 mins



The thing that helped most was disconnecting the front sway bar and laying on the brakes. Out finally



And assembled



In



They were actually much easier to install with the shorter springs because the bottom perch doesn’t hit the upper arm. Yay clearance



Rears

Out, easy deal



Went from 7k to 8k to match the fronts. Still 7” springs.



Ready to assemble



And ready to go in



The hardest part of the rear install was getting the bottom bolt in, the ball joints don’t bend enough.

My solution was to slide a bolt into the other side to locate the bottom of the damper. I used an old exhaust bolt



And on the front



Then use an end wrench on the rear sway bolt to flex the rear sway enough to install and push the locator bolt out



In



The rear shocks could actually be 1” longer. There isn’t all that much droop in the rear, and I think the cups don’t lift a full 2” in the rear cause they hit full droop before they max the cups.

If I ordered these again, I ask for 1” shorter fronts, and 1” longer rears

The end (air cups edition)

Well I think that’s it for the air cups install. All ready for some rock crawling

 

[Chris_Lum]

You mentioned it right at the end of that last post, but i was surprised to see you running helper springs with them fully compressed at full droop (or close to it). Doesn't seem like there was a need for them, at least before the cup kit. Make sure you have enough droop with the cup kit to make use of the lift!

 

[bogle]

Yeah I wish there was more rear droop. I do get 1.75” lift in the rear, but like 2”+ in the front. I could run that 9mm spacer below the top hat in the rear. That would move everything down 9mm (shaft and upper perch), and should give it more max rear droop. Not sure what the lever arm in the rear is, but I’d guess something like 12mm more total droop from a 9mm taller damper.

So this



Instead of this



I debated doing this in the rear when installing, but I wasn’t sure, and didn’t want to uninstall/reinstall, so just did the same thing front to rear.

But maybe I fix this before I go get a pro alignment

 

[Chris_Lum]

2" is the full lift i think, so if you're getting that, then you should be good. For the rear, without a rear lift, I've only ever scraped my exhaust getting onto a AAA flatbed tow truck. I honestly think you probably don't even need the rear unless you're constantly having to go straight up steep driveways or you have a bulky rear diffuser setup, but it doesn't look like you do.

 

[bogle]

You all probably know this cycle



Right after I got the cup kit going, I took it out for a drive. It felt great, but … there was an electrical whine. WTF, with the climate control on in any way, it was worse. With the lights on, even worse. Always something.

Here are a couple videos, listen to the higher frequencies. There is a bit of sc whine in there, but the main high pitched noise sounds electrical.

Pulling out onto the main road (these are meta glasses videos fwiw, also test of videos in a post)

And a country road

I did add new power stuff, maybe it was that?

I got it home and did a bunch of testing. It was fortunately easy to test in the driveway by revving a bit and listening. Unplug the air tank stuff, no change, sounded like it was in the cabin. Turn off everything, still there.

As a last gasp, I did a bunch of wire wiggling while it was running and … I found something.

The main alternator power wire was hanging on by like 5 strands and was super corroded



This is an extension installed with the CTSC on the factory alternator wire. The SoS kit came with a new one, but I figured this one was working, why rock the boat. Well I should have installed it, but instead, it went in the sale of the CTSC.

A little of pressure, and it tore all the way off



I cut it back and cleaned up the corrosion



New eyelet installed





And boot on



Verdict

It actually fixed the electrical whine! And it made the car run a little smoother. There is still a little whine, but it now is (seems to be) supercharger only

I have some battery cable and proper eyelets coming so I can replace the whole CTSC extension, but this will do for now.

 

[bogle]

Dyno

This thing has finally seen the dyno under my ownership. I took the car to Shad at Driving Ambition (comptech) for a dyno tune. The trip has been a bit of an albatross in my head: the car had to feel “ready,” I had to take a day off of work, and I had to drive 2 hours each way to and from Sacramento. I’m happy that it’s done, it feels like a bit of a weight lifted, and I now have much more confidence in WOT pulls

Shad tuned the car for the previous owner a long time ago, it made 390 WHP and 284 tq at 9 psi with the CTSC on the AEM series 1.



A lot has changed since then, the big things being SC, ECU, injectors, TB, exhaust, coils, etc.

In this trip it made … drumroll … 425 whp and 300tq!



I overlaid the charts here, the new setup picked up 10hp at 5k, 20hp at 6k, 30hp at 7k, and 35hp at 8k:



My main goal in all of this was a super reliable, super consistent 400whp. Even though the ctsc made 390 on the dyno, because of the high air temps or boost fade, it almost never was at that power level in practice. It would be quickest for 10-20 minutes after warmup, then down on power after.

Anyway, goal achieved. Now it feels super quick all the time, my butt dyno says that the TVS feels significantly more torquey all over compared to the CTSC. Air temps were higher on the dyno than I see on the street, which I’ll show you in a bit, and it still made 425 whp. 425 whp worst case, I guess

At the dyno

A quick video of one of the pulls

The car made 425 / 298 on the first pull. After that first one, Shad spent a little time checking the data, then looked at me kinda surprised, shrugged and said that that was probably as much as it was going to make (“well, it’s pretty fucking close!” with raised eyebrows was the direct quote IIRC). Street tuning FTW



I think we ended up doing about 6 passes. He pulled timing, it made like 10-15 ft/lb less across the board. Then he added timing about a degree over what I came in with, but it only picked up a couple hp and broke 300 tq. We decided the risk wasn’t worth the extra hp, so he put the timing back to be pretty similar to the first pass as the car seemed happy there. These were the timing maps I ported over to the Link from the AEM series 1, so they were his timing maps to begin with. I’m honestly pretty surprised the timing needs weren’t so different despite a totally different ECU and coils.

When I was leaving he told me I did a great job with the car and said that it was the easiest dyno session he’s had in 10 years. That felt like high praise. Yay, I’ll take it!

Both Shad and Steven were great. We chatted a bit about Steven’s SW20, and Shad showed me all the cool stuff in the shop, engines, race cars, CTSC stuff, etc.

A couple more pics

Setup







There you go. We are currently here

 

[BlackNA111]

Hey everyone! I'm a new owner and I've been lurking around here since buying the car. The forum has been super valuable already!

Here's the car. I haven't taken any great pics yet, so pics courtesy the seller:

I bought this car from BaT in mid May. I had been searching for the right fun car for a couple years, mostly looking at S2000s, E46 M3s, 996 turbos, and thinking about maaaybee splurging for a 996 GT3.

I'm a Honda fanboi at heart. I've had a number of EF Civics and a DA Integra. Many moons ago I spent all of my time and what little money I had on a pretty crappy-looking EF sedan, turning it into a still crappy-looking but locally competitive Street Mod autox car. I made parts for it, I had a couple different junkyard B-series engines in it, I reverse engineered the ECU. I occasionally beat the tube frame prepared cars at autox events (usually the very short courses), I took it to a couple HPDEs and bounced off the revlimiter down the back straight (it went 115; 6500rpm + short gears). It was a lot of fun, and I miss it.

I really wanted an NSX, but everything I saw on the internet seemed too expensive. NSXs also felt a little precious--the kind of thing you keep stock, baby it, and watch it appreciate. I didn't want to spend $50k+ on a stock NSX then let it chill in the garage.

I wanted something I could modify and tinker with. And I would feel _bad_ if I bought a nice stock one then messed with it.

So this one came up, and it was The One (provided it didn't go over my $$ limit!). It felt like it had the right combination of mods, but not "done". It also seemed like there were some factors that weren't crazy difficult to deal with, but might turn other people off and keep the price within reason: registered non op, very loud, and no cats / doesn't pass smog. It isn't perfect, but that makes it so I can tinker with it and feel like I am improving it rather than devaluing it.

It has a lot of aftermarket things already on it, the big chunks being:

* CTSC (9psi) on a motor refreshed by Hilltop Auto and tuned by Driving Ambition
* AEM Series 1 ECU
* Tein Circuit Master RA coilovers
* Dali / brembo front BBK
* Sparco seats & steering wheel + a million gauges inside
* Test pipes (OMG it smells)

I have a couple goals:

* Make it comfortablyish streetable: not so loud and not smelly. I guess I'm old now
* Restore or improve all the old / missing / jank / rusty stuff
* Understand even all the things that have been done to it
* Be able to take it to an occasional track day without worrying about reliability
* Have a outlet for tinkering

Right now, I want to keep this pretty mild. But who knows, build threads can get out of hand. First page is always like "yo, what % tint should I get?", then page 15: "Ok, car made 934hp on pump gas and I finally finished the homemade carbon body panels."

More pics from the seller:

Engine / Exhaust

[x] Install quieter exhaust (SoS endura lite)
[x] Install cats
[x] [maintenance] TB / WP (currently 12 years, 20k miles)
[x] [maintenance] Replace fuel lines & fuel filter
[x] [maintenance] Look into and maybe replace supercharger bypass elbow
[x] Gauge setup for both widebands (GaugeART CAN gauge)
[x] Add a second wideband controller
[x] IAT sensor post blower (turns out the stock sensor is post blower)
[x] Better IAT sensor
[x] [maintenance] Replace crank pulley with new OEM part
[x] Add timing belt shield
[x] [maintenance] Replace LMAs with new Honda springs
[x] Tune it for partial throttle
[x] SoS Big bore throttle body
[x] Tune accel fuel
[x] Upgrade current LSU 4.2 controller to an LSU 4.9 sensor to match new controller
[x] Baffled oil pan (cedar ridge)
[x] New radiator (MASiV)
[x] [maintenance] Replace all coolant hoses
[x] OEM coolant tank with R condom
[x] SoS catch can
[x] Water / methanol injection
[x] Route oil pressure sensor to the ECU
[x] Route fuel pressure sensor to the ECU
[x] Oil Temp sensor
[x] Griptec supercharger pulley
[x] High output alternator
[x] Rebuild supercharger
[x] Phenolic plate under supercharger
[x] Replace every rusty bolt and bracket
[x] Delete EGR
[x] Modern ECU (Link G4x)
[x] Turn on ECU O2 feedback
[x] Tune it again
[x] Change tranny oil
[ ] Use washer reservoir as water methanol tank
[ ] New supercharger with intercooler
[ ] OMG Tune it again
[ ] Take it to the dyno for WOT
[ ] Use the Link ecu as the water meth controller instead of the AEM controller

Suspension / Chassis

[x] NSX-R front chassis braces
[x] NSX-R front sway bar
[x] Cedar Ridge compliance clamps
[x] [maintenance] New steering rack + new tie rod ends
[x] Quaife short ratio steering rack kit
[x] Cedar Ridge rear toe links
[x] New coilovers (MCS)
[x] Wheel bearings all around
[ ] Replace clutch master cylinder and slave
[ ] Air cup kit front and rear
[ ] Alignment
[ ] Get it weighed / corner balanced out of curiosity
[ ] [maybe] Type-S rear sway bar
[ ] Rear beam bushings


Brakes

[x] [bug] New rotors to fix crazy rattle
[x] [maintenance] New brake pads (carbotec)
[x] Upgrade ABS system
[x] Stainless lines (Goodridge)
[ ] Rear big brake kit


Interior

[x] Lower seat position for driver
[x] Lower seat position for passenger to match driver
[x] Lower driver position even more with short seat pads
[x] [bug] Fix horn: really actually use the steering wheel’s horn button!
[x] [bug] Disable SRS light
[x] [maybe] Lighter seats? Evo2 seats are 26lbs each… (Evo 2 seats actually 17lbs)
[x] Shift boot + e-brake boot
[x] Move gauges around to free up space for a Navpod
[x] Add navpod with RealDash
[x] Remove all gauges
[x] Replace weirdly painted interior pieces (garnishes mostly)
[x] NSX-R pillars and visors
[x] Reupholster ivory hardliner
[ ] Replace nsxcarpets carpet with OEM black carpet
[ ] Fix super broken knee bolster
[ ] Use OEM switches for things
[ ] Final form of center console
[ ] [bug] Fix windows slow rollup with Hugo’s window kit
[ ] Generally add all the fix up parts to the doors: handles, hinges, sliders, etc
[ ] New or maybe carbon door panel switch stays
[ ] Alcantara reupholster
[ ] New seats?
[ ] [maintenance] Get cluster capacitors fixed
[ ] [maintenance] Get CCU capacitors fixed (was replaced in 2012; punting for a couple years)


Exterior / Underhood

[x] Replace engine hatch shocks
[x] [bug] Convert to 134a
[x] Replace dumb 40lb battery with Li-ion
[x] [bug] Replace AC compressor, drier, get it charged
[x] Get it detailed so I’m working with a cleanish car
[x] Replace every rusty bolt and bracket, every dirty connector
[ ] Replace trunk shocks
[ ] Fix faded b-pillars


Wheels / Tires

[x] Thoroughly clean the current wheels
[x] Figure out wheel situation, maybe just rear CE28N 18’s? +28??
[x] New tires (RT660)
[x] Buy 10 sets of wheels I don’t need, ha
[ ] Get fenders rolled
[ ] Finish CE28s and use them
[ ] Get other LMGT4s powdercoated

That car is gourgeous. i love the CE28 look. Mexiricer has some right now

 

[bogle]

Data from the dyno

I pulled the data off the ECU when I got home. Fortunately the ECU holds 5-6 hours of data, so despite a 3 hour return trip due to heavy traffic, the data from the dyno runs was still there

This is the most controlled environment the car has been in, pretty cool to see. There were a lot of cells hit that have never been hit on the street. All the runs looked basically the same in the data. Here’s a marked up plot



On the air temp front, you can see it move from 115 to 140F at redline. 140 is the highest I’ve seen with the intercooler. He had a fan up there, but it’s probably not flowing as much air over the exchanger as would flow with the car actually moving. The intercooler tank was hot to the touch, again the first time I’ve seen that. We didn’t spray any water, he really is not a fan of water / meth injection as the water displaces combustible air.

On the street, I see air temps under 120, even in boost, even when it’s hot af out. On a cool morning, air temps will be under 100F.

Other notes

• It makes full boost around 4500 rpm and 5 psi at 2k rpm. Full boost is 9.1 psi
• No boost fade at ~100 lbs belt tension when hot
• Fuel in vtec looks perfect. I probably could add 1% or so just so it’s only pulling a tiny bit to hit targets
• Looks like I could probably pull 4-5% out of the non vtec fuel map at 2-5k and have it real close to the target. Might improve throttle response at lower rpm too
• You can see pretty clearly when it goes into VTEC, plus all the effects. Oil pressure drop (normal), voltage drop (solenoids are hungry), the fuel map changeover in the corrections.