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Brakes not hold

Joined
29 April 2021
Messages
22
Hei.
I have problem. For example, when I'm stopped on a downhill (at a traffic light), the car is not in gear but in neutral, I hold - press the brake, but the brake "gives up a little" and stops braking, so I have to take my foot off the brake and press the brake again quickly and harder to make the brake last. When driving, when I press the brake lightly, the brake "fails" a little and does not brake properly. But if I brake harder, the brake holds.

Is it problem in Brake Master Cylinder or it can be something else?

Thanks.
 
Hei.
I have problem. For example, when I'm stopped on a downhill (at a traffic light), the car is not in gear but in neutral, I hold - press the brake, but the brake "gives up a little" and stops braking, so I have to take my foot off the brake and press the brake again quickly and harder to make the brake last. When driving, when I press the brake lightly, the brake "fails" a little and does not brake properly. But if I brake harder, the brake holds.

Is it problem in Brake Master Cylinder or it can be something else?

Thanks.
Sounds like the master cylinder. Look under the dash by the brake pedal, should be some signs of brake fluid.
 
I found new brake master cylinder on ebay for 350$. Does someone selling here master cylinder? Thanks.
 
Check RockAuto.com. They sell a Centric master brake cylinder for a significantly lower cost. If you want to stay with OEM, you can order the MC from Amayama.com for a significantly lower cost than from the EBay sources. The part number is

46100-SL0-954​

Honing out and replacing the piston and seals on a brake MC does require some mechanical skills. If you have to ask 'how' you probably should not be trying this. Also, do not do the MC replacement without a factory service manual. You need to confirm the clearance of the MC pushrod as described in the service manual when you do this work.
 
Check RockAuto.com. They sell a Centric master brake cylinder for a significantly lower cost. If you want to stay with OEM, you can order the MC from Amayama.com for a significantly lower cost than from the EBay sources. The part number is

46100-SL0-954​

Honing out and replacing the piston and seals on a brake MC does require some mechanical skills. If you have to ask 'how' you probably should not be trying this. Also, do not do the MC replacement without a factory service manual. You need to confirm the clearance of the MC pushrod as described in the service manual when you do this work.
I already contacted Amayama, they don't have.
 
I already contacted Amayama, they don't have.
Check RockAuto.com. They sell a Centric master brake cylinder for a significantly lower cost. If you want to stay with OEM, you can order the MC from Amayama.com for a significantly lower cost than from the EBay sources. The part number is

46100-SL0-954​

Honing out and replacing the piston and seals on a brake MC does require some mechanical skills. If you have to ask 'how' you probably should not be trying this. Also, do not do the MC replacement without a factory service manual. You need to confirm the clearance of the MC pushrod as described in the service manual when you do this work.

Dorman, Centric, Raybestos
Are they all good quality?
Master Cylinder will replace the Honda service.
 

Dorman, Centric, Raybestos
Are they all good quality?
Master Cylinder will replace the Honda service.
I've had good luck with Centric products. Surprised to hear Amayama doesn't have the OEM in stock.
 
IMHO a brake calipers and master cylinder is a decent place to start ones amateur mechanic career. Especially with the YouTube Expert Certification Program.

I grew up rather poor and if I couldn't do it myself: it simply didn't get done. A MC and brakes was one of the first things I did. I've done bunch for past GFs, poor friends, and my toy cars.

I still try and save a buck whenever possible as it is part of what I do and has served me well.

I know Kaz and Old Guy might not approve, but I found that the previous booster adjustment was usually spot on and or needed a half turn. A homemade depth guage with cardboard has worked ok.

Besides rebuilding the existing MC should also be right on the money for the booster as a bonus.
 
First off, based upon the message from Amayama, you have requested a superseded part number. The part number I gave you is 46100-SL0-954 and Amayama's website indicates that part is available and is showing in-stock. Amayama's website indicates that 46100-SL0-952 is out of production; but, the website also indicates that 46100-SL0-954 is the current replacement.

I have never used a Centric MC; but, I have used their brake pads and they have been good products. If you are OK with using aftermarket parts Centric is probably a good choice.

@drew is correct that the pushrod clearance probably will not need adjustment. But, it should still be checked to confirm that it does not need adjustment. I am not aware of any aftermarket MC rebuild kits for the NSX MC. Honda does sell all the internal parts for a rebuild; but, if you replace both the primary and secondary pistons and all the other bits you are looking at over $200 Cdn by the time its shipped from Amayama. If there was a rebuild kit for $30 this might be worth a try. Not at >$200.

Rebuilding a MC does require a light honing to remove the ridge in the bore. The light honing is the problem for inexperienced individuals. Go a little over enthusiastic on the light honing and you will have a permanent leaker with brand new internal parts.
 
First off, based upon the message from Amayama, you have requested a superseded part number. The part number I gave you is 46100-SL0-954 and Amayama's website indicates that part is available and is showing in-stock. Amayama's website indicates that 46100-SL0-952 is out of production; but, the website also indicates that 46100-SL0-954 is the current replacement.

I have never used a Centric MC; but, I have used their brake pads and they have been good products. If you are OK with using aftermarket parts Centric is probably a good choice.

@drew is correct that the pushrod clearance probably will not need adjustment. But, it should still be checked to confirm that it does not need adjustment. I am not aware of any aftermarket MC rebuild kits for the NSX MC. Honda does sell all the internal parts for a rebuild; but, if you replace both the primary and secondary pistons and all the other bits you are looking at over $200 Cdn by the time its shipped from Amayama. If there was a rebuild kit for $30 this might be worth a try. Not at >$200.

Rebuilding a MC does require a light honing to remove the ridge in the bore. The light honing is the problem for inexperienced individuals. Go a little over enthusiastic on the light honing and you will have a permanent leaker with brand new internal parts.
Hei. Thanks. Now I will check for
46100-SL0-954
 
I don't know what is going on, but I was verifying some NA2 NSX-R parts and discovered that the master cylinder for the Type R p/n: 46100-SL0-N12 is US$248.

And the rebuild kit 57520-S0K-A02 (primary) US$31, 57540-S0K-A02 (secondary) US$38 and 57560-S04-J51 (piston) US$12

The master should work on the NA1 without issue. You would have to verify the bore size to determine if the rebuild kit would work.
 
I don't know what is going on, but I was verifying some NA2 NSX-R parts and discovered that the master cylinder for the Type R p/n: 46100-SL0-N12 is US$248.

And the rebuild kit 57520-S0K-A02 (primary) US$31, 57540-S0K-A02 (secondary) US$38 and 57560-S04-J51 (piston) US$12

The master should work on the NA1 without issue. You would have to verify the bore size to determine if the rebuild kit would work.
The R master cylinder uses different brake line fittings than the "standard". You would have to re-nut and flare your brake lines to use it, unless you have a genuine NSX-R.
 
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