Question for the paint guys out there. I REALLY would like to paint my calipers and rotor hats. Is there any additive to add to paint to make it withstand heat? What happens when it is overheated? Will it just crack and peel? How do manufacturers paint their calipers and hats? I don't want to use a generic color. I want to match my silverstone body color. Cam anyone give me advice please.
Can you make regular paint "high heat"?
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
- Joined
- 22 April 2012
- Messages
- 665
Not sure exactly what type of paint or additive is added but I think epoxy paint would be your best bet. You can have G2 color match your car. http://www.g2usa.com/
That G2 stuff is brushed on. I need a quality finish. This is a stoptech caliper not a roughly finished steel caliper.
Powder coating involves heat and I think that's bad for the calipers? Not sure
How do brake manufacturers do it? They are painted!
Hi,
I think they powdercoat them prior to assembly...ence no rubber, etc parts on it.
Nuno
I think they powdercoat them prior to assembly...ence no rubber, etc parts on it.
Nuno
I think pre Assembly the paint and bake them ether that or air dry.
Although i've used regular auto paint on calipers quite a few times it held up nicely for 2 years even heating the brakes up nicely at the nurburgring.
There is heat resistant paint but those generally are in generic colors
Although i've used regular auto paint on calipers quite a few times it held up nicely for 2 years even heating the brakes up nicely at the nurburgring.
There is heat resistant paint but those generally are in generic colors
So you ran the ring with it I assume fairly hard and they were ok? What's happened after 2 years? Flake and peel?
I had my oem calipers painted by my dealer many years ago after I got the car.....I asked for high temp paint..and they used something akin to barbeque grill paint....it held up pretty good but did flake and peel in some spots....I think Synth had his bbk painted ..ask him how they are holding up....also pm Joe L...pbassjo
High heat paint has slower hardeners, that is, it does not dry as fast and the heat cycling of the surface to which it is being applied cures the product.
To prevent peeling, preparation, thorough cleaning of the surface is paramount.
VHT makes all the item you will need here: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
oNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->[FONT="]VHT
[/FONT]Read and follow the product directions.
The steps:
1) CLEAN: SP700 Caliper Cleaner
2) Primer: Sp118
2) Color : in this case your's
3) Clear: SP730
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="18" width="179"><tbody><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
To prevent peeling, preparation, thorough cleaning of the surface is paramount.
VHT makes all the item you will need here: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
oNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->[FONT="]VHT[/FONT]Read and follow the product directions.
The steps:
1) CLEAN: SP700 Caliper Cleaner
2) Primer: Sp118
2) Color : in this case your's
3) Clear: SP730
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="18" width="179"><tbody><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Last edited:
Don't know the best paint to use but when i refinished the sc the advise i got was to use a cleaner and conditioner to prep before painting aluminum, if you want it to last.
I used below and have lots left.
PPG DX533 aluminum cleaner
PPG DX503 aluminum conditioner
I thought stoptech had silver kits.
Mike
I used below and have lots left.
PPG DX533 aluminum cleaner
PPG DX503 aluminum conditioner
I thought stoptech had silver kits.
Mike
High heat paint has slower hardeners, that is, it does not dry as fast and the heat cycling of the surface to which it is being applied cures the product.
To prevent peeling, preparation, thorough cleaning of the surface is paramount.
VHT makes all the item you will need here: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
[/FONT]Read and follow the product directions.
The steps:
1) CLEAN: SP700 Caliper Cleaner
2) Primer: Sp118
2) Color : in this case your's
3) Clear: SP730
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="18" width="179"><tbody><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
this post should signal the successful termination of this thread:wink:
You can thin it a bit and run it through a primer gun (2.3 - 3 mm tip). I've done that before with good results.
High heat paint has slower hardeners, that is, it does not dry as fast and the heat cycling of the surface to which it is being applied cures the product.
To prevent peeling, preparation, thorough cleaning of the surface is paramount.
VHT makes all the item you will need here: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w
[/FONT]Read and follow the product directions.
The steps:
1) CLEAN: SP700 Caliper Cleaner
2) Primer: Sp118
2) Color : in this case your's
3) Clear: SP730
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="18" width="179"><tbody><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr></tbody></table>
Joe I appreciate the info, but I am trying to match body color. Silverstone. Can I do all these steps and use silverstone automotive paint instead of their can? Is it worth using their clear coat instead of the standard clear coat used at a body shop?
Also, should I have them sand the black that is on there now?
Synth said his has help up fine but he really is a novice tracker with I think 1-2 events. He had like 4 coats of clear put on.
Did you clear coat too?
No. Just a couple light color coats.
Yes.
Yes. Use the VHT clear. It is specially formulated for this application.
If it is the oem paint I advise to leave it on. If not, they may want to media blast the finish off and start fresh.
If the clear has the standard hardener it will eventually dry and begin to flake off. I suggest again to use the VHT clear.
Last edited:
Paint is fine although they need a wash. (i'm not a fanatic detailer so my cars get DIRTY)
Anyway it wasn't on the ring put it was the mountain road round the ring those are practically more brutal than the track the brakes heated up so much my discs turned purple and my retainer springs started touching the disc (a horrid sound that scared the crap out of me in a hairpin)
A buddy of mine always uses regular auto paint on his WRX and he tracks that thing 3-4 a year.
Mind you I've head mixed results with paints the brand i usually use (duplicolor/motip) the silver paint is weak as hell, the red caliper paint is huge PITA to spray (i did my motorcycle calipers once)
I won't second guess Joe for a do it yourself.
But Dave, (1) how far off is the Stoptech silver from your silverstone - also do realize the color of the wheels will affect the visual. (2) Stoptech does refinish their calipers. Perhaps by sending them to Stoptech with your choice of color they can do it for you while also preserving the Stoptech logo.
As an fyi, I used the real German version (before it was sold as G2USA) on my oem calipers which got more heat at the track than what your Stoptech will and they lasted for years without flaking though lost some of their luster after 6 years. The brush on smooths out if done professionally.
But any color other than black will eventually bleed with heavy track use.
But Dave, (1) how far off is the Stoptech silver from your silverstone - also do realize the color of the wheels will affect the visual. (2) Stoptech does refinish their calipers. Perhaps by sending them to Stoptech with your choice of color they can do it for you while also preserving the Stoptech logo.
As an fyi, I used the real German version (before it was sold as G2USA) on my oem calipers which got more heat at the track than what your Stoptech will and they lasted for years without flaking though lost some of their luster after 6 years. The brush on smooths out if done professionally.
But any color other than black will eventually bleed with heavy track use.
The stoptech silver is way lighter than silverstone. Last I checked with stoptech, about a year ago, they guy I talked to told me they can NOT refinish calipers. Did I talk to the wrong guy or has that changed?
I want to do my hats as well which get more heat. I may use the G2 brush on for that and spray the calipers.
My RSII's coming are black. I don't want a sea of black in the wheel wells. So that's why I want to paint them. 6 years is great. Also I think OEM steel calipers probably get way hotter than the large ST aluminum ones.
Last edited:
Yep, you talked to the wrong guy :biggrin:
If the Stoptech is lighter then that is good for with dark wheels the contrast will be better and the black wheels will reflect on it - so you may not see a huge difference - using the KISS philosophy :tongue:
Well this is the third time I've called stoptech and emailed too, and I can't ever get anyone. It's like no one is alive there. They probably won't do the hats anyway. I think this is a job for my body shop. If I am going through all this I want a perfect match. Not "close".
The reason you will need clear is if he is having a body shop paint them they most likely are using base coat paint which is dull, with a satin like finsih and has no UV protection at all. Left wih not clear it would not work very well.
Most kits that brush on are single stage paint and need no clear,
Similar threads
