Clutch not releasing when car is running.

[NSX_NA1]

Hi,

I had a science of speed twin plate carbon clutch installed.

I've had the motor out and during installation i switched back to a oem clutch.

the car will select all gears no problem when the car isn't running.

However, once the car is running i'm unable to put the car in to gear, the shift leaver doesn't allow it to go in to gear with the clutch pedal pressed in.


Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be because i switched from a SOS clutch and i need to adjust something or maybe it just needs bleeding?

Clutch pedal has a nice feel to it when pressed in.

Thanks

 

[NSX_NA1]

Car not starting without battery booster (New Battery)

Hi,

I was trying to start the car with a old battery, it's sat around for a while so didn't expect much. i used a battery jump booster which works to move it about the garage. The car will start but doesn't start without it.


Today i bought a brand new battery. Calcium, 60amps 550 CCA, this doesn't start the car neither. it just clicks and the lights on the dash flicker.

Again, if i connect a battery booster it will start.

The battery is off the shelf, there is a chance it's lost charge while on the shop floor or maybe it's a dead battery although the battery indicator is showing green.

Going to try another known working battery from another car but if that doesn't start the car without a battery booster, where am i going wrong?


I've checked the ground behind the battery, the one connected to the gearbox and the other one connected to the head from the bulkhead. I've checked both ends of the grounds and cleaned with a wire brush.

Really baffled, could be a faulty battery although it's brand new.

What is the recommended amps and CCA for the NSX?

I have a battery Tender Jr connected to the battery overnight and will try again in the morning but my understanding is that battery tenders don't actually charge the battery as such?

Thanks

 

[Old Guy]

To confirm, you re installed the OEM twin disc clutch? If so, there is a re initialization procedure that you must go through for the twin disc clutch which is set out in the service manual. If you don't have the service manual, use the Prime search function to find links to .pdf versions of the service manual that you can down load.

 

[Honcho]

As for your clutch, I agree with [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION] that you need to initialize the clutch first. You're basically setting the correct clearance for the clutch discs. Without this step, your clutch will not engage/disengage, or at best will do so very poorly.

As for your starting issue, I would check the starter. If the car will start on a booster but not with just the battery, either it is a bad battery or an issue with the starter circuit. You seem to have eliminated the battery issue, so I would look to the starter. Is the hot connection solid with no corrosion? If so, I would pull it and have it checked by a starter/alternator shop. It may be drawing much more current to engage than it should be. This could indicate an internal issue.

 

[stuntman]

Hi,

I had a science of speed twin plate carbon clutch installed.

I've had the motor out and during installation i switched back to a oem clutch.

the car will select all gears no problem when the car isn't running.

However, once the car is running i'm unable to put the car in to gear, the shift leaver doesn't allow it to go in to gear with the clutch pedal pressed in.


Does anyone have any ideas? Could it be because i switched from a SOS clutch and i need to adjust something or maybe it just needs bleeding?

Clutch pedal has a nice feel to it when pressed in.

Thanks

RPS is aware of the issue and know what it is. Contact them directly to have it rectified. The twin disc carbon clutch is one of the best clutches i've ever felt in an NSX. It's amazingly streetable and holds a ton of torque.

 

[asylum]

By luck, mid plate hasn't been initialized. That you can do from under your car. By no luck, the release bearing has not been placed properly.

 

[NSX_NA1]

Thanks everyone, was indeed the mid plate that needed initialising

I really didn't like the feel of bolts when doing it.

Anyone else who may stumble across this thread, it can be done with the engine installed as the manual doesn't specify, it's easy to do but very limited space. The Wiki on Prime had some very good steps and tips.

Things worth considering for anyone else.

There is a lot of strain applied to the bolts for the size of the thread, i felt the bolts could easily snap. Use good quality bolts and maybe a bit of lube on the threads might help to a certain degree, threading in to the flywheel there was some resistance from the threads then when you reached the mid plate it was mainly tension from the initialisation.

The instructions say to screw in until you feel resistance then apply further 360 degree then move on to the next, this doesn't work exactly to plan as you will find you will need to screw them past a certain point to clear the sump when moving on to the next.


I also bled the clutch and the manual was a little miss-leading, I was sucking through so much fluid then had massive amount of air in the system, people suggested pumping 30 times and checking fluid and some said at the end to pump further 200 or so to get peddle pressure back. I'm sure this is all good suggestions but where i was going wrong is you must not let that level go down to the bottom of the reservoir, if you do, you are sucking air back through. There was some who said you must leave the cap on then i saw a post from one of the members with a lot of experience suggest you can leave the cap off, that it made no difference. Believe it was either Old Guy, Larry or Mac and that worked a treat for me as it allowed me to keep a eye on the level.

 

[NSX_NA1]

I did attempt to reply but it's not been approved by mods.

It was indeed the mid plate that needed initialising.

There is a great guide on Prime for this.

What i did find though, if you follow the 360 degree turns, you will find the bolt will not clear the sump if it's not in enough for the first initial turn, once they clear you can repeat the 360 process.

I also noted, how horrible the bolts felt when screwing in, they went in straight but the pressure from the mid place with resistance from maybe aged threads, i found a little grease on the thread helped it screw in. I was worried i would snap the thread off while screwing in, something to be mindful of.

 

[NSX_NA1]

I also bled the clutch system and that proved difficult due to the manual not being clear.

It's really easy to do, it's really easy to get wrong.

Do not let the fluid level drop below the min line on the bottle, the recommended 20 bumps will make it drop below this line. At which point you are sucking loads of air through the system. This will also cause the pedal to fall flat to the floor, if this does happen which it did to me, top up the fluid and keep bumping with someone topping up as you go, eventually you will pump all the air out. Again keep the level above that min line.

The other thing that was discussed was the cap on the bottle, several suggested this had to be screwed on, however one of the OG Prime members said this wasn't needed as it's not a pressurised system, leaving this cap off made the job much easier as you can keep topping up as the other person pumps.