• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Clutch replacement

Joined
13 January 2003
Messages
426
Location
Norway (Arctic part!)
I have some questions about the NSX clutch:
I have read several threads stating that the pedal engage quite high on the NSX, and I have tried Larry Bastanzas advise on testing the grip with an up-hill accelration from 3000 rpms. The clutch holds, but I am still not convinced...

Is it true that the clutch normally needs to be replaced after 70-90K km/appx. 50K miles? A daily drive could do at least twice the distance.

Is it sufficient to change the pressure plate and clutch disc after 50K miles or should I also have the TOB and flywheel replaced? And why will the TOB wear out so quickly (given a normal/non-track use)?

The questions my be weird for an expert, but I am truly confused after reading several posts on the Prime regarding this issue. :rolleyes:
 
Is it true that the clutch normally needs to be replaced after 70-90K km/appx. 50K miles? A daily drive could do at least twice the distance.

I don't know exactly what you're asking I have to admit but the longlivity of the clutch is very, very driving habits related. I guess 100k km is a good value for a clutch for a sportscar. If your clutch still does it's job why being anxious about it? :wink:
 
What I really would like to know is: Do I have to change the complete set with plates, TOB and flywheel if I decide to replace the clutch at 80K km/50K miles? Or will the bearing and flywheel last another clutch before it is really necessary to replace them?
How do you know if the bearing (TOB) and flywheel is due for replacement without removing the clutch assembly?

Why change? Well, it was a stupid comment from a friend which infused the "mistrust" to my clutch + the HUGE difference between my Accord and NSX regarding the engagment point of the pedal.
 
Comparisons between different models can result in completely different results even if both clutches are ok. No need to worry about now. :wink:

Please remind: Working on the clutch is a 10+ hours job. To be save I'd go with a full kit with the TOB. I'd surely not mess around with the TOB as it's around $200 compared to $1000+ labor. Regarding the flywheel there are places who rebuilt (resurface) the parts except the clutch discs. I know of people who did that and I did it myself in the past but not for the NSX. Maybe some experts can chime in about the NSX clutch.

Similar question (I've asked myself): Should the tensioner and the water pump be replaced while doing the TB job if the car has only done let's say 50k km/30k miles? You don't need a catastrophic failure of the engine if you've choosen to let them in but recognize a nice buddle of coolant on the garage floor. :wink: Easy decision here: WP = $200, Tensioner = $100 versus labor of the TB job $1000+ -> change them.

On the other hand: IT people say 'don't change a running system' :D But I don't think it's a wise recommendation in automotive.
 
Why change? Well, it was a stupid comment from a friend which infused the "mistrust" to my clutch + the HUGE difference between my Accord and NSX regarding the engagment point of the pedal.

Engagement point has nothing to do with the how much life is left in the clutch on an NSX. The engagement point and free play is an adjustment on the clutch petal and stays that same for the life of the clutch. Any wear is taken up by the hydraulic system. Your Accord has a cable clutch which you may notice a little change in the height of the petal as the clutch wears but is small and again can be adjusted to any petal position by adjusting the cable.
 
Engagement point has nothing to do with the how much life is left in the clutch on an NSX. The engagement point and free play is an adjustment on the clutch petal and stays that same for the life of the clutch. Any wear is taken up by the hydraulic system. Your Accord has a cable clutch which you may notice a little change in the height of the petal as the clutch wears but is small and again can be adjusted to any petal position by adjusting the cable.

is that a tulip or a rose petal?:cool:
 
Still waiting for an answer to my initial questions...:rolleyes:

Some have been answered I think. What would you like to hear? :wink:

To 'Is it true that the clutch normally needs to be replaced after 70-90K km/appx. 50K miles?'

-> No. In general: There is NO definite limit of how long a clutch lasts. Some people can drive only 10k, some exceed 100k km by far with a clutch. Ok, I don't recall an NSX clutch that went 200k km.

To 'Is it sufficient to change the pressure plate and clutch disc after 50K miles or should I also have the TOB and flywheel replaced?'

-> No, not sufficient. Yes, TOB replaced

To 'And why will the TOB wear out so quickly (given a normal/non-track use)?'

Does it really? Same here: driving habits. Some people press the clutch pedal at the red light while for a green one, some people do not.
 
Well, I just changed one that had 90K MILES, and probably had another 3-5K left. Again this is very dependent on driving style.

1. TOB's get noisy. When you pump the clutch you may hear a change in sound. You can tell once it is apart, and you spin it by hand. I would NEVER reuse one.

2. Depending on the condition of your flywheel, midplate, and pressure plate, you could just replace the disks. I would not do that, personally.

3. There are good rebuilding shops like CenterForce, that do a fine job, but actually cost more then a discounted OEM NEW clutch.

Again if your clutch is not slipping, it is hard to tell it's life unless you know what to feel for. You can actually "feel" the thickness, but this takes driving many NSX's and knowing what to feel for. It is hard for me to explain.

Sounds like you may want to hold off, and enjoy the car:).

Hope this answered your questions.

Regards,
LarryB
 
my nsx clutch is engaging too high in the travel just like the s2ks do right before the clutch goes out . honda phased out the cable operated clutch in the late 80's -early90's. I am going to wing it and put in 2 friction discs for $360.00 before the rivets start to chew the pressure plates. The clutch is not slipping but does not feel crisp either. I will post results later with pics
 
I have some questions about the NSX clutch:
Is it true that the clutch normally needs to be replaced after 70-90K km/appx. 50K miles? A daily drive could do at least twice the distance.:

This is truely a hypothetical question. After 50K miles of who knows how the driver(s) drove the car it is hard to say. If you were the only one to drive the car and we could talk about your driving habits, then maybe this would be true.

Is it sufficient to change the pressure plate and clutch disc after 50K miles or should I also have the TOB and flywheel replaced? And why will the TOB wear out so quickly (given a normal/non-track use)?:

It will all depend on what the components of the disassembled clutch looks like when you take them out. It has been said that you may be able to just change the two clutch disks and the TOB. I would never install a used TOB because of the labor involved if it failed.

The OEM pressure plate is NOT AVAILABLE as a separate part from the OEM dealer. The OEM clutch kit comes with a NEW: flywheel, mid plate, pressure plate, two clutch disks and the pilot bearing. The only separate parts available are the two clutch disks and the pilot bearing that goes in the flywheel for the tranny input shaft. The TOB is always available and is NOT INCLUDED in the clutch kit.

I would also resurface the flywheel if you are going to reuse it again. Any machine shop can resurface the flywheel. This is very common.

The questions my be weird for an expert, but I am truly confused after reading several posts on the Prime regarding this issue. :rolleyes:

Never a weird question. Only a learning question.

Brad
 
Thaks a lot Larry B and OLDMNSX for your informative answers.

It is not like I will be changing the clutch next week or month, but I fear it might be due before next season. I am aware of driving style etc. for the wear, but my impression is that it is quite common to have the clutch replaced after +/- 100K km/60K miles. My first Volvo had 250K km and still the clutch was OK. :wink:

It is a question of economics: Here in Norway, the prices for OEM parts are extremly high, typically 2-3 times the US prices. Buying from US, I will have to pay a substantial amount for shipping and on top of that 25 % value added tax for parts + shipping costs. :mad: Labour is appx. 160-170 USD/hrs
Undestandably I do not want to pay more than necessary to have the clutch replaced, but I always want my car to be in top condition.

Based on the advices, I think I will do the whole package and maybe also have a lighter flywheel installed.
 
Re: Clutch replacement,CLUTCH MASTER

Hello...any body used CLUTCH MASTER..ARE THEY GOOD? WOULD YOU USED CLUTCH MASTER..THANK YOU...
 
if your doing your clutch and your getting one from acura i think they only sell the complete kit flywheel included. i just replaced mine cause it broke and could only find performance clutches .so i went with the factoy one and thats how it came
 
depends on how you drive it.

lots of highway driving. little clutch use, i had customers go 250K on their honda (not the nsx) but if you go easy and if you live in the boonies, your clutch will last a lot longer.

most people change 60-80k since its due to in town traffic.

change your clutch when it runs out.

definitly do the tob and flywheel.
 
I have had 2 nsx's, both of mine have had the cluthc egage high up. I bought both used, I really would like to put a whole new clutch and if anyone here knows what it entails and if it can be done at home drop me a line. I read someone else on here say that their clutch did not slip but alos did not feel crips either, thats how my 2 nsx's have felt. I had one with 89,000 miles and another with 44,000 both feel pretty much the same which is worn.
 
There is a dampener in the clutch hydraulic system which slows the engagement of the clutch(lets the clutch slip a bit on hard shifts and starts). Had a dampener eliminator installed when I had my tranny/clutch swapped out. I think Comptech makes the one Driving Ambitions installed for me. Wasn't very expensive either.
 
Back
Top