Clutch sticks at bottom?!?

[gabedm]

I had an issue where the clutch was sticking at the bottom of the stroke. This crept up on me after my new clutch install. It was fine for aprox 2500 miles.

Anyways, I bled the clutch and it still was there. I suspected the slave went out, as well as seeing fluid leaking from the hardline-> slave connection, I replaced that O-ring as well. After a horrendously long time bleeding the clutch I got it back to how it felt before, took it for a drive and it stuck even worse.

I checked the master, no signs of leaking at the connection, checked the front firewall, no signs by the pedals.

WTF is causing this sticking?? This is a new clutch <2500 miles, brand new slave, and freshly bled system!?

People say go in there with a big q-tip and lube up the shift fork but that grease wears off; you mean to tell me this is all because of grease? hard to believe.

Any thoughts??

 

[charlee]

After several pumps of the clutch pedal, does your fluid level change? Air might be getting into your system and not necessarily at the slave cylinder.

Larry B, would be the one who knows all the possibilities.

I had an issue where the clutch was sticking at the bottom of the stroke. This crept up on me after my new clutch install. It was fine for aprox 2500 miles.

Anyways, I bled the clutch and it still was there. I suspected the slave went out, as well as seeing fluid leaking from the hardline-> slave connection, I replaced that O-ring as well. After a horrendously long time bleeding the clutch I got it back to how it felt before, took it for a drive and it stuck even worse.

I checked the master, no signs of leaking at the connection, checked the front firewall, no signs by the pedals.

WTF is causing this sticking?? This is a new clutch <2500 miles, brand new slave, and freshly bled system!?

People say go in there with a big q-tip and lube up the shift fork but that grease wears off; you mean to tell me this is all because of grease? hard to believe.

Any thoughts??

 

[gabedm]

After several pumps of the clutch pedal, does your fluid level change? Air might be getting into your system and not necessarily at the slave cylinder.

Larry B, would be the one who knows all the possibilities.

During bleeding, yes, it does change. It was behaving normally during bleeding I think.

I did go out there a few mins ago and tried to get a better feel. Its as if there is a 'catch' some distance up the clutch stroke where the pressure plate is forced to move and now disengages quickly. I think this would be like a metal-on-metal feeling, like its causing it to stop then the tension of the pressure plate overcomes it. Not cool.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Let's start by listing all that was changed and what clutch is in the car now...

Oh, and the theory about the grease is nonsense.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[gabedm]

Ok Larry, heres what we got"

Brand New Exedy Hyper Single Clutch Installed <2500 miles ago
Brand New Honda Throw Out Bearing Installed <2500 miles ago

Brand New Slave Cylinder Installed Yesterday,
New O-ring on the Slave connection,
Bled clutch as well and flushed a ton of fluid through the system.

I am begining to suspect the master now unfortunately. I wonder if it has to do with the spring on the pedal possibly? I checked the floor and the mat, not damp at all but also made sure it wasnt holding the pedal up for some reason.

Thanks guys.

Also, Larry should I go try to get some grease on the clutch fork?

 

[Briank]

When the petal is stuck down is the clutch disengaged?

 

[kookoo4nsx]

Curious if you bypassed the clutch damper?

 

[gabedm]

Update:

Spoke to Larry and he led me in what I think is the right direction. The clutch dampener is stock and this is the 2nd aftermarket clutch on the car. The first clutch was a CT engineering twin disk (welded t/o bearing one) and that is supposed to come with a dampener bypass.

Remembering my old 240 days and bypassing that dampener when I put in an aftermarket clutch, I think that may be the reason. As I discussed with Larry, I cannot hear any mechanical binding. It is as if the fluid is being held somewhere and forced out very quickly as I remove my foot from the pedal at the bottom, sortof like a delay (see 'floating a valve')

Tonight I will try to bypass that and mate the hardline to the soft line. From the Manga-list it looks like it should mate up.

Thanks for everyones help thus-far. Very pleased to see knowledgeable people here.

 

[gabedm]

When the petal is stuck down is the clutch disengaged?

Yes, I can freely shift.

 

[gabedm]

LOL @ Me.

Update:

Removed the Clutch Dampener. Def a stock, round one. Will post pics.

The issue is you cannot take the hard line and connect it directly to the slave soft line. The slave accepts a M10 Line thread while the dampener uses a M12.

Why the F honda decided to do a step down in thread size with the same diameter pipe is beyond me, but im pissed off.

How can I get this m12-m10 line connection made? Who sells a 'dampener bypass kit and can ship it quick to me?

Thanks guys...

 

[clarknm]

Scienceofspeed sells one, but after replacing the master/slave myself I got no relief...until I lubed up the fork. I used one of those disposable foam paintbrushes. Been a couple years since, and it was pretty easy compared to the cylinders. Works like a charm. I guarantee the next time it sticks that will be my first troubleshooting step.

 

[kookoo4nsx]

Just have SOS overnight you the delete line.
It bolts right up. About $60.00.

 

[gabedm]

Just have SOS overnight you the delete line.
It bolts right up. About $60.00.

they said in a week they will have a delete that bolts directly to the slave, bypassing all the connections. Im gonna wait and buy it since ill be out of town anyways.

Im pretty much set its the fork and not getting lube. I hope its not too badly scorn cause I dont wanna drop the tranny again.

 

[gabedm]

So guys, heres what I did:

Purchased a damper bypass line from Dali Racing- Mark was very quick sending it to me and responding, unlike another vendor on here, and for $25 bucks it was a steal.

1. I installed the damper bypass then removed the slave so I could dislodge the clutch fork.

2. Used Royal Purple heavy-duty grease to lube up the fork- specifically the center section cylinder area and its mating part on the transmission, which both were bone dry. I also used a q-tip to lube the ends of the fork and generally put gobs of grease every where I could in there on a contact surface.

3. Re-installed the slave and bled the clutch. BTW this gravity bleeding bullshit does not work, or I was doing it wrong, but I was able to get pressure after just opening the bleeder and forcing through about half a bottle of brake fluid.

4. Test drive.

Impressions:

My Exedy hyper single clutch feels much more linear and direct without the damper. The pedal is firm but has alot of play in it (needs adjustment)

Now with an extra 10 inches of clutch line, the grab point is alot higher on the clutch stroke. I need to lower it I think to make it a more street-able feel.

I am not sure which of my two counter measures fixed this issue, but the combination of both has worked for me. Very happy with the results, even though its about to snow and the car wont see daylight for months probably.

In conclusion, I no longer have a sticky clutch, AND have a much more direct, linear clutch feel for a total cost of 45 bucks. I had to spend a ton extra trying other things, but now you dont have to.

The end.

 

[Sumeronthechain]

Congrats.

I would recommend buying a stubby 12mm wrench and a mini needle nose vice grip for easier clutch adjustment.