I did this about 6 months ago, wrote detailed directions on a piece of paper, took pictures, etc...and never got around to sharing the info. Here are some noteworthy items, starting with things you asked about.
Stupid Bolt...
If we're talking about the same PITA bolt (one of the manifold bolts/nuts toward the front of the car)...I went and bought a cheap ratchet with a "flex head" (like pictured
here) to remove/reinstall this. I had to do the torque by feel. Use of the torque wrench on the other bolts gave me a benchmark to go by, so I think my torque-by-feel was quite accurate..
Cracked Hose...
My hose (about 6-7 years and 10k miles after CTSC install) was cracked (but not all the way through) and you could see marks where it had collapsed onto itself under vacuum. Cracked with no leak (like mine) = fine. Some believe that when cracked all the way though (so that air that is allowed to enter) will result in higher intake temps which could be harmful to the engine. Complete failure would be where the hose failed enough to let a bunch of air in. I don't believe there is a single account of this, but the result is the same as an open throttle (having your foot against the floor). That could create a dangerous driving situation (might cause an accident) but I don't see any reason to not believe the rev-limiter would function normally and prevent over-rev of engine.
Tough to get new pipe fitted...
The mini-hoses that hold the new pipe in place aren't the easiest to get on. Get some boiling-hot water, put these rubber hose sections into it, let them sit for a few minutes. The heat helps to temporarily softening them up and the water will act as a lubricant that will evaporate later (so also temporary).
Impossible to get new pipe fitted...
The really early CTSCs (like mine, which was installed in 1999 & I think the 88th one Comptech produced) have some variability in the length (or I guess you could say height given how it's mounted) of the bypass pipe going back to the intake site of the SC. Mine was shorter than what the new bypass hose (actually a pipe) seemed to be designed for. Shad at Comptech agreed the fit wasn't good and sent me another hose/pipe...which also didn't fit. I ended up needing to slightly trim the end of the perminant pipe to get the pipe that replaces the hose to fit.
Old-school NSX tuning...
The earlier CTSCs used a restrictor and check valve in the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. This kept the MAP sensor from seeing boost, which kept the ECU from seeing boost (otherwise it will throw a CEL). Now-a-days this isn't done. Instead a voltage clamp is put between the MAP sensor and the ECU (i.e.
Comptech's ESM or
Brian's SmartMap). The old-school check-valve & restrictor setup is "down there," next to the bypass hose under the manifold. If you want the option of upgrading to the new voltage-clamp solution some day (supposedly this may result in even better throttle response), without having to remove the SC assembly again, move the check-valve + restrictor setup to the other end of the MAP sensor hose.
When you put back together, make sure the restrictor goes before the check valve (restrictor closer to the manifold, check valve closer to sensor cluster) or the check valve will not be able to keep up with the volume of air coming down the hose = MAP sensor sees boost = ECU sees boost = CEL with pretty aggressive "limp mode." If/when you upgrade to a voltage clamp, you can reach in and remove the check-valve + restrictor setup in about 10 seconds....instead of hours (to redo all this labor).
I learned today that an added bonus of having the restrictor & check-valve located top-side is that a dyno shop can then tap into this hose before check valve and assembly to get a reasonably-accurate boost reading. I suppose it might not be a perfect reading because the check valve is still downstream...but if they were upstream the reading would be zero.
Loose hose check...
I found the MAP sensor hose to be pretty loose on the fitting on the bottom of the manifold...so loose I imagine air was seeping past and can see it slipping off within the realm of possibility. (This was true regardless of where the check valve & restrictor was located.) I used a little zip tie to snug it up.
Fuel rail cover...
When reinstalling the fuel-rail cover, use a lot of care. If you drop a screw (really a small bolt with alan head) it's liable to disappear into the abyss between the manifold and the engine. I learned this lesson before I undertook this hose replacement job, so I was able to finish with more screws than I started (I retrieved formerly-lost ones from the abyss). I wouldn't want you to end up with less screws.
I'll try to post a couple relevant pictures in the next few days
