Dali 1" Trophy Straight Sway Bar Installation Instructions

nsxspdfreak · 27 August 2016

Dali 1” Trophy Straight Sway Bar Install in NA1 NSX

The challenge with installing the Dali Trophy bar is that it’s location above the battery tray plate rather than below it results in interferences with the aluminum radiator pipes and the ABS pump. The pipes and pump will need to be raised.
Below are instructions to accomplish the mods based on my recent installation of the bar.

Tools and Supplies:

10mm socket with swivel extension and ratchet
10mm wrench
Dremel with reinforced cut-off disc
1”x ¼” Aluminum Bar – only require about a 2”-3” piece (Home Depot or Lowe’s)
10mm x ¾” bolt with nut and lock washer
Drill & ¼” bit
Machinist Ruler or any metric ruler.

1. Raise the car on jack stands up to a comfortable height for working under it. You’ll be doing some cutting of the ABS mounting casting from below.

2. Remove the OEM sway bar and links, the battery and the battery tray.

3. Remove the 3 bolts and the ABS support bracket #7. The pump will remain as it’s supported by all the connections. Now is a good time to clean up and paint the bracket, which more than likely is full of rust.

4. Remove the bolt holding the passenger side aluminum radiator pipe to the side of the inner fender.

5. To determine the height required to move the aluminum radiator pipes do a test fit of the sway bar. You only need to raise both pipes to just clear the bar (see the photos). Some owners use the sway bar to raise the pipes and then cover the contact area with a rubber hose or padding. I preferred to raise them so there is minimal clearance between the bar and the pipes. There is enough give in the driver’s side pipe to allow it to be raised by hand or very gently with a floor jack. The passenger side pipe requires a little more force and once into position has to be supported by the inner fender pipe mount. This is where you’ll need to fabricate an extension from the 1”x1/4”x approximately 2” flat stock. The extension will need two ¼” holes drilled @ approximately ½” from each end of the 2” bar and 1” center to center. You may have to do some guesstimating on the exact dimensions you’ll need to get the pipe to the required height. The further apart the holes the higher the pipe. Secure the extension’s lower hole to the inner fender pipe mount with the OEM bolt, raise the pipe to line up the pipe’s mounting bracket to the upper hole on the extension. Once you have the holes lined up, bolt the pipe to the with the 10mm bolt/lock-washer/nut.

As you can see in this photo there is some rubbing between the clamp on the right side pipe and the sway bar so it could have been raised another 1/16[SUP]”. [/SUP]

6. Remove the sway bar if it’s still in place.

7. Next steps are to raise the ABS accumulator and pump.

Measure 15mm from the bottom each of the 3 mounting posts circled below that you previously removed the bracket bolts from, mark the location with a Magic Marker.

With the Dremel cut off the excess 15mm on each of the 3 posts. If you don’t feel comfortable going right for the 15mm cut do a 10mm cut first, do a test fit of the bar, and then cut off the balance needed. Total removed should be approximately 15mm.
Test fit the bolts to make sure there are no issues with the threads in the casting.
Reinstall the bracket #7. This will now raise the pump and accumulator, which there is enough flex in the ABS connections to allow.
Do another test fit of the sway bar to determine if you have adequate clearances between the ABS bracket and the bar. This is what it should look like.

8. If all checks out ok, reinstall the battery tray, battery, sway bar links and torque all bolts to spec’s.
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w

unctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w

oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w

ontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]-->

jones83 · 27 August 2016

Did everyone who has the 1" Dali swaybar have to go through this? I never heard of needing to mod the bracket to get it to fit.

GraemeD · 27 August 2016

I'm sure that there is a strong reason to do this, vs shimming the bar mounts down, Correct ?

Valhalla · 27 August 2016

The quick answer is yes. I had all kinds of gyrations to perform as I'm running the even bigger Trophy bar. I know that Robert had his hands full when he went to install his. It's a very nice piece but it is definitely not plug and play.

nsxspdfreak · 28 August 2016

GraemeD said:
I'm sure that there is a strong reason to do this, vs shimming the bar mounts down, Correct ?

Yes this is required. I thought about shimming the bushings, but shimming them 15mm was way too much to try and clear the accumulator bracket. I spent more time scratching my head trying figure out how to do it than it actually took to do. There was some references to having to move the pump on an old post, but it didn't say how.

Larry Bastanza · 29 August 2016

What you need are two of these:

51309-SL0-000 SPACER, FR. STABILIZER

And four of these:

95701-08035-05 BOLT, FLANGE (8X35)

These are on the 1997+ models and are about a 3/4" thick aluminum spacer block for that reason from the factory. It is OEM/$20 ea, about $1ea. for the bolts from discount dealers.

HTH,
LarryB

nsxspdfreak · 29 August 2016

Larry Bastanza said:
What you need are two of these:

51309-SL0-000 SPACER, FR. STABILIZER

And four of these:

95701-08035-05 BOLT, FLANGE (8X35)

These are on the 1997+ models and are about a 3/4" thick aluminum spacer block for that reason from the factory. It is OEM/$20 ea, about $1ea. for the bolts from discount dealers.

HTH,
LarryB

Larry, have you used these with the Dali straight bar? I had thought about making spacers (I didn't know about the oem spacers), but I think I recall I was concerned about other possible clearance issues coming into play with lowering the bar 15mm. The 3/4" drops the bar down an additional 4mm. If they work they'll save a lot of time.

Larry Bastanza · 29 August 2016

I have not used them with the bar in question. the only clearance issue that may come up is clearance for the battery tray. I am not sure if the Dali bar bends up in the center to clear it. I would position the bar lower, to see if the tray clears. The OEM bar bends upward to clear this easily.

HTH,
LarryB

nsxspdfreak · 29 August 2016

Larry Bastanza said:
I have not used them with the bar in question. the only clearance issue that may come up is clearance for the battery tray. I am not sure if the Dali bar bends up in the center to clear it. I would position the bar lower, to see if the tray clears. The OEM bar bends upward to clear this easily.

HTH,
LarryB

The tray might be the issue with the straight bar. Any info I found on the bar said it required moving the abs. One of the guys who has a 97 and just bought a bar from Eric Rolfe is going to test fit it with the spacers. Thanks for posting.
Joe

PSHUMARD1 · 7 April 2018

Any updates on if the spacers worked for this? I just bought a set of trophy bars for my 99.

Dali 1" Trophy Straight Sway Bar Installation Instructions

nsxspdfreak

Attachments

jones83

GraemeD

Valhalla

nsxspdfreak

Larry Bastanza

nsxspdfreak

Larry Bastanza

nsxspdfreak

PSHUMARD1

Similar threads