Do my CTSC numbers make sense?

[gobble]

I just installed the 6 PSI kit on a 92. I believe the belt is properly tensioned.

I can't get the car to boost up to 6 PSI. In fact, the gauge falls just short of 5 PSI. Fuel pressure is pegged exactly at 45 PSI at idle. At WOT, it jumps immediately to 85-88 PSI and then tapers off past about 6,000 RPM.

Are these numbers consistent with what others are seeing?

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

Yes


Armando

 

[gobble]

Its normal not to get 6 PSI with the 6 PSI kit?

 

[Dinan M3]

The references to 6 and 9 psi kits are mere marketing puffery. Empirical results seem to be less in both cases. Expect about 320 RWHP for the former case and 340 RWHP in the latter case for typical 3.0L installations.

 

[sjs]

Its normal not to get 6 PSI with the 6 PSI kit?

Nope, not really. You may see close to that at mid RPM but it will likely fall off again at higher revs. Of course your gauge is probably only +/- 1/2 PSI as well. And don't expect to see much more than 7PSI from the "9PSI" kit, which is not actually named that but rather something like the "high boost" kit. People have erroneously tacked the PSI to the kit designation.

 

[TheYellowBeast]

Technically, many parameters and variables contribute to a difficult situation to diagnosis accurately.

On the other hand, boost is fun! :biggrin:

 

[Arshad]

I can't get the car to boost up to 6 PSI. In fact, the gauge falls just short of 5 PSI. Fuel pressure is pegged exactly at 45 PSI at idle. At WOT, it jumps immediately to 85-88 PSI and then tapers off past about 6,000 RPM.

Are these numbers consistent with what others are seeing?


This is what I'm seeing as well, and Shad from comptech indicated to me that this was normal.

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

5 posts and hundreds of words later, to say the same thing that I said with one word. Internet what a wonderful thing......................................

Armando

 

[Bilulan]

Armando,
Do you remember what rwhp were you getting when DocL took me for a ride in it 2 Holiday get togethers ago?

I think you had just recently put the sc in at that time....

 

[MiamieNeSeX]

Armando,
Do you remember what rwhp were you getting when DocL took me for a ride in it 2 Holiday get togethers ago?

I think you had just recently put the sc in at that time....

Just 380 or so , with the SS box.

Armando

 

[NSX 3.0]

Gobble,
So how does the car run?? Have you road tested it yet?? Hope to see it at RA on the 7th.

 

[gobble]

I would say the difference is very noticable, but its no rocket car. I would agree with what others have said about the power being the way the car should have come from the factory. The power comes on very smooth and the blower isn't terribly loud. I've driven it, but not much. Its hard to test it on the streets because you get going so fast so quickly.

I'm a bit bothered by the fact that I get less than 5psi from a "6psi" kit.

I have a dyno appointment on Friday and will be able to post before and after numbers Friday night. I'm going to Blackhawk April 27th and will see you at RA on May 7.

 

[gobble]

A trip to Acura of Brookfield, and I am pushing over 5 psi. My belt was not tight enough.

 

[Briank]

How tight did AOB make it ?

 

[gobble]

The 1/4" gap became a 3/16" gap, maybe a bit less. Its not much different ,but I do now get over 5 psi. Heading to the dyno Friday night if you want to stop up.

 

[Mark911]

Remember, boost is just a indicator of flow, it's not the ultimate measuring stick. Boost is just "what's left over" after the engine has consumed as much air as it can at a particulat load and rpm. I'm sure on a "stone stock" NSX the kit probably produces 6 psi when the engines VE is low, like right before VTEC and again at redline. The remaining time you'll probably see 1/2 to a pound less boost. Now, if you've done ANYTHING to increase your engines ability to breath or you happen to own a stock engine that on the "right" side of the manufacturing tolerance range you'll see even less! Is this bad? NO it's good (assuming everything is working correctly). You should be flowing the same amount (weight) of air at 5 psi that the other guy needs 6 psi to flow. Your air temps will be lower and your dynamic compression ratio will be lower. Therefore, you should be able to safely tune a few more HP out of your engine than the guy flowing the same amount of air at 6 psi. In fact, one of the goals of FI system builders to to try and keep boost as low as possible while still flowing as much air as possible. They do this by increasing the engines volumetric efficiency through the same means (although not necessarly the same approach) as any NA engine builder. Cams, headers, exhausts, valves, port configurations, intake tuning, combustion chambers, piston crowns, the list goes on and on. Botton line, if it dynos out be happy, everything is as it should be.

 

[NSXTech]

The 1/4" gap became a 3/16" gap, maybe a bit less. Its not much different ,but I do now get over 5 psi. Heading to the dyno Friday night if you want to stop up.

Be carefull on the belt tension guys. The idler pulleys on the CTSC are failure prone. I have replaced boxes of them. The number one differance between long lasting and not long lasting is a belt a bit too tight. The tensioner gap is a guideline only, which is why gobble was low on boost at 1/4".
If you have a boost gauge, what I would do (and I mean that only litterally) is to acheive max boost belt tension, then loosen a turn at a time of the draw bolt till any decrease is noticed, then go back 1.5 turns. No excess tension that way.

JMO,
MB

 

[gobble]

I was a bit concerned to see the gap less than what Comptech says in the instructions, but the adjustment they made did give me about 1/2 PSI of additional boost. I can still do your 90 degree turn test that I read somewhere else in these forums.