finally building my motor!

Joined
7 April 2007
Messages
634
Location
Downey, CA
it's been about half a year since i blew my head gasket pushing about 15psi on a stock block. Even with a bad HG i was boosting 12psi w/meth. Finally i'm ready for the build next week and need to order parts. I'm shooting for 650 700hp

what type of sleeves and should i sleeve for 3.3L
pistons go with low comp9.5 or stay with 10.5 since i'm sleeving
clutch
I'm going with MLS HG
what kind of valve springs and retainers
will my walbro handle mid 600whp
what kind of gasket rebuild kit
what size diameter should i increase my 3-1 collector's (turbo exhaust pipes are 2.25 and 3" exhaust)
arp head studs
sos cam seals
Tbelt lock
lost assembly springs


I know i'm missing other things feel free to add. my budget is 5K
 
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Well - THESE ARE JUST MY THOUGHTS -

The darton sleeves are only available for 3.2L bore size (or so I'm told)

I would consider using stock composite h/g with o-rings (head or block) vs. cometic gaskets.

You may do better to stay at 10.5:1 since you are spraying meth

If you are not going to rev higher than stock, the stock springs/retainers are fine(if it ain't broke...)

The walbro 255hp can support 600hp - IF you run enough methanol

Up-pipe and down pipe are sufficient , but bigger never hurt anyone (unless your wallet is pain sensitive)

If you have a 5k budget then you will need to "delete" certain things - like the sleeves - consider doweling the stock sleeves - this is proven to work ( you could make 600 like this , or MAYBE more if you don't ping , i.e. an assload of methanol)

Will your current turbo flow 650 - 700hp ?

Use oem gaskets and seals
 
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What is the advantage/disadvantage of using the stock head gasket vs. cometric gasket? (thought that the cometric is better for forced induction)

Thanks,
Dave
 
Depends on the sleeve to head area. We/Shad used stock 3.2L gaskets on the 3.5L they had more surface area for FI than the Cometic.

Don't use aluminum cam plugs. The stock plugs won't leak :smile:

We use Cometic Gaskets in our motors - even the 920whp beast. I would be nervous to trust factory 3.0 liter Fiber gaskets at this level, or even much above 400whp for that matter.
 
What's wrong with aluminum cam plugs?

Henry.

Take apart a stock cam plug. You'll find a flexible steel insert and plastic outer that seals the hole. An aluminum plug relies on the o-rings to flex and needs silicone sealer to help but still will not flex to fit the hole and will leak eventually.

Short = $6 stock cam plug works :smile:
 
yes, if you must have the aluminum cam plugs you need hondabond

the composite gasket is better at sealing everything but the fire ring area , that is where the o-rings come in , I have had weeping from the cometics and the middle layer is zinc coated mild steel , I've had problems with them .
 
Learn from me, don't get titanium retainers and springs and imho, most aftermarket stuff is lower quality/reliability/durability/longevity than stock. At the very least, make sure to EXPECT issues no matter how good you think your build is to begin with.

Of course, if you're going 500WHP+ like you are.. stock ain't gonna hold, but imho, from talking to Shad for a long time and from what I've learned on my own, 95%+ of stock parts are better than anything aftermaket.

Just my 2cents.
 
Learn from me, don't get titanium retainers and springs and imho, most aftermarket stuff is lower quality/reliability/durability/longevity than stock. At the very least, make sure to EXPECT issues no matter how good you think your build is to begin with.

Of course, if you're going 500WHP+ like you are.. stock ain't gonna hold, but imho, from talking to Shad for a long time and from what I've learned on my own, 95%+ of stock parts are better than anything aftermaket.

Just my 2cents.

I try to explain this to people every day! however , the stock sleeves can/will hold 500 hp - it's been done - lots , so I think pistons, rods, o-rings/head studs should do it , you are definitley opening a "can of worms" by trying to replace or "upgrade" too many parts , they are definitely - for the most part - not as good as oem honda parts , they may be stronger , but won't fit or last as long ...
 
I been talking to a couple of people and made my mind that I'm going with the following mods. Angus and slownsx have a point about reliability. the first day i posted this thread Mark called and said the same thing too. I'll stick with 550whp and do major weight reduction to make up for the rest. Wish me luck as i begin the project sat morning. I'll take pictures every step as i go along.

upgrade pistons CP will go with 10.5
ARP Head studs
Lost Motion Assembly Kit (should i do this since i'm sticking with stock cams)
All new seals, bearins, rings and gaskets (OEM)
Cometic Headgasket
Timing Belt (oem)
Exedy Dual Cerametallic Plate Clutch
billet cam plug
increasing the turbo up pipe to 2.25
 
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o-ring the heads and pin the deck , these are cheap and proven mods.
 
15 lbs of boost with 10.5 to 1 compression sounds like a road to disaster on pump gas
 
FYI,

A few guys i know are running piston swaps in the j-series that comes in the TL and are running 11:1 with a supercharger on pump gas and putting out nice power. I built my new motor and am running 10.7:1 in my legend and with be running boost also. You can do it with proper tuning and it will yield more power.

Ps- S2000s stock run high compression and they bolt on the novi SCs all the time right?
 
I would go 9:1 and really boost it!

That would be my vote the only time I would build a high comp motor for turbo is if we were going to be running it on alcohol. If this guy is going to be running plain 91 octane out of the pump he will never make any real good power with a hi comp motor with turbo, what you will end up is a motor that is very lazy because you are having to take so much timing out of the engine or even worst cases the car begins to pre ignite causing damage to the engine. Keep it 9:1 and you will be very happy.
If you need a set of pistons or help with the engine give us a call
 
You can do it with proper tuning and it will yield more power.

No; its basic physics. With a given octane level, ignition set-up and tuning parameters, you are limited by max cylinder temps, max cylinder pressure or the NET effective compression. With higher static compression, more of the total heat from compression is generated within the cylinder and less within the turbo or supercharger.

With lower static compression, you can use the FI device to do more of the compression (generating more of the heat outside of the motor) and dump most of it via an intercooler before the charge enters the cylinder. This allows a higher NET compression within the motor and more power before you reach the tuning limits defined by the parameters mentioned above.

The only real advantage of running high static compression with gas is to get slightly better off-boost throttle response.
 
No; its basic physics. With a given octane level, ignition set-up and tuning parameters, you are limited by max cylinder temps, max cylinder pressure or the NET effective compression. With higher static compression, more of the total heat from compression is generated within the cylinder and less within the turbo or supercharger.

With lower static compression, you can use the FI device to do more of the compression (generating more of the heat outside of the motor) and dump most of it via an intercooler before the charge enters the cylinder. This allows a higher NET compression within the motor and more power before you reach the tuning limits defined by the parameters mentioned above.

The only real advantage of running high static compression with gas is to get slightly better off-boost throttle response.

Very well put couldn't of said it better
 
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