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Going back to OEM - looking for help

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Hello,

I have a 98 NSX-T that I got recently. To the best of my knowledge the car is completely original other than the suspension. The previous owner put Tein Flex Z shock absorbers on (see pictures). It was pretty clear that this suspension lower the car. According to the NSX service manual the original ride height is supposed to be:
  • 170-180mm front (measured from center of lower control arm bolt)
  • 213-223mm rear (measured from center of the toe control arm bolt)

Measuring my current setup ride height:
  • 110mm front
  • 170mm rear

I did my best to measure but it was pretty tight in the front. I am on OEM wheels and OEM tire sizes.

Although this stance does look good to me, it is entirely too low. I intend to drive my NSX frequently, and being this low makes getting in and out of driveways questionable at best, and speed bumps may as well be road blocks. I know these Flex Z's are height adjustable, but I think I have them close to their maximum setting.

I have no intention of tracking the car, except maybe once or twice just for the fun of it. If I ever decide to do that in any serious manner, I would get the appropriate suspension at that time.

How hard/expensive will it be to go back to OEM shocks and springs?
What other parts will I need? Anything obvious from the pictures?

Thanks for any help or insight!


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OE2

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Trying to source OEM is going to cost you about as much as a half decent aftermarket set up. If i were you i'd look to find OEM springs and maybe Bilstein or Koni Yellow shocks. A little better than OEM performance but nothing like a coilover set up.
 
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OEM springs/struts do still pop up from time to time on the boards, and in the FB groups. I picked up a set with 40k on them for $350 about a year ago and have seen a few others for sale since then. If you can wait you'll likely find a set, if not then your best bet will be what OE2 mentioned above with an Eibach Pro Kit spring (0.7" lowering). Most like the Bilstein more from what I've gathered but I think they are hard to find now. Science of Speed is likely your best bet.
 
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KW coil overs from SoS = $2819
Complete OEM suspension from Mita Motorsports = $2300
Bilstein dampers + Tein S.Tech springs from SoS = $1059

OEM will ride the best but have the largest wheel gap (will get you back to factory specs). KW will offer the best adjustability and ride. Bilsteins + Tein will be your budget solution. Ride will be OK, but dampers and springs are not perfectly matched to each other and the overall ride may be slightly compromised.

I am not sure Koni makes dampers for the NSX any more. If they did they would be my choice due to their rebound adjustability. Gives you the ability to adjust the dampers to better match the spring rebound characteristics.
 
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KW coil overs from SoS = $2819
Complete OEM suspension from Mita Motorsports = $2300
Bilstein dampers + Tein S.Tech springs from SoS = $1059

OEM will ride the best but have the largest wheel gap (will get you back to factory specs). KW will offer the best adjustability and ride. Bilsteins + Tein will be your budget solution. Ride will be OK, but dampers and springs are not perfectly matched to each other and the overall ride may be slightly compromised.

I am not sure Koni makes dampers for the NSX any more. If they did they would be my choice due to their rebound adjustability. Gives you the ability to adjust the dampers to better match the spring rebound characteristics.

^
|

This.

I would add that some people find the Bils to be too stiff, but many of them are using lowering springs. They are, however, the best budget option out there- you can find tons of OEM springs for like 50 bucks in the used market. If I were you, I would just get the new OEM suspension. If you plan on driving a lot and not tracking, it's really, really good. If you want a little lowering, the Type-S is a fantastic setup. I steer most owners to the Type-S since it's OEM, will last 100,000 miles and just is the best all-around option for the NSX. But even so, the "regular" NSX suspension in brand new condition is fantastic. After all, it's a NSX suspension.
 
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. . . the Type-S is a fantastic setup. I steer most owners to the Type-S since it's OEM, will last 100,000 miles and just is the best all-around option for the NSX.

To follow up on @Honcho suggestion:

Type-S OEM suspension from Mita Motorsports = $2500. Lowers the ride height by 0.4” (10mm). Given the $200 delta between the OEM standard suspension and the Type-S, I'd choose the Type-S if you want to stay fully 100% OEM. Seems like a no-brainer.

OEM Honda NSX-S / Zanardi Suspension Set — MITA Motorsports
 
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KW coil overs from SoS = $2819
Complete OEM suspension from Mita Motorsports = $2300
Bilstein dampers + Tein S.Tech springs from SoS = $1059

OEM will ride the best but have the largest wheel gap (will get you back to factory specs). KW will offer the best adjustability and ride. Bilsteins + Tein will be your budget solution. Ride will be OK, but dampers and springs are not perfectly matched to each other and the overall ride may be slightly compromised.

I am not sure Koni makes dampers for the NSX any more. If they did they would be my choice due to their rebound adjustability. Gives you the ability to adjust the dampers to better match the spring rebound characteristics.



where does BC coilover fall into this discussion? For me, I’m leaning towards the OEM Type S.
 
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where does BC coilover fall into this discussion? For me, I’m leaning towards the OEM Type S.

I remain a fan of the BC. I drove that setup in all 4 seasons without so much as a squeak or clunk, including in the dead of winter and at many hot HPDE track days. Keep in mind that the BC highest height is about 10 mm shorter than stock. TBH, it felt a lot like the OEM Type-S in terms of bump damping. But, while the Type-S will last 100,000 miles, the BC is good for about 20,000 before it needs a rebuild. Less if you track a lot. They now offer a digressive piston in the BR and I would definitely go that route.

The BC price has been creeping up, so it's not the smokin' deal it used to be (I got my set for $900 in 2012), but if you just plan on driving and are not a hard core track rat, I think they're a great option.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I’ll stick with OEM Type S. I plan on putting this build on paper first and make sure I’ve got all my bases covered before buying parts. I guess it would help if the car was actually in my possession :)

btw, I’m still in late 2018 on your build post…that’s a ton of work on the Imola.
 
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My only "broken record" suggestion for those on a budget is instead of the complete Type S susp you can make your own with the zanardi springs and koni yellows..some of the big dealers from the glory days may still have some in stock buried deep ( next to the holy grail....or the ether)


also for those who do go koni the front rebound adjust is easy peazy with the supplied tool...the rear is not because it sits below the hole cutout in the cross member...so you cut out the center plastic piece from the koni tool and wedge it into a ratchet socket which will allow you to turn the shock screw....kinda like operation...
 
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I'll just chime in quickly with some Koni Yellow feedback now that I've been on them
also for those who do go koni the front rebound adjust is easy peazy with the supplied tool...the rear is not because it sits below the hole cutout in the cross member...so you cut out the center plastic piece from the koni tool and wedge it into a ratchet socket which will allow you to turn the shock screw....kinda like operation...
This makes me feel like I'm missing something as my rear Koni's are easily adjustable just like the fronts.

1663597591684.png
 
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I'll just chime in quickly with some Koni Yellow feedback now that I've been on them

This makes me feel like I'm missing something as my rear Koni's are easily adjustable just like the fronts.
maybe Koni updated the shock? @docjohn's advice is from 20 years ago lol. :)
 
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HaHa maybe the targa brace is different than the coupe?...but yes in the old days the tool was too wide to get into that hole....she said...never...:p:cry:
 
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HaHa maybe the targa brace is different than the coupe?...but yes in the old days the tool was too wide to get into that hole....she said...never...:p:cry:
I had the same issue with the Comptech/Koni on my 91, actually. I bought the Dali Racing adjusting tool. It was really nice billet aluminum. I'm pretty sure @jazzmann has it now...
 
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Ahh, I know what they changed now that I've thought about it for a second. The rear adjustment tool now has an insert so that you don't need it to come down over the top of the strut threading. The insert makes the adjustment hole flush with the bottom of the tool.
 
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Sorry for the slow reply...

When the forum transitioned, I had some trouble logging in, and since then I have been dealing with other issues. Got the timing belt done and now dealing with an idle air issue.

Once that is all sorted, I will shift back to the suspension changes.

Lot of really good info here, so thanks for that. At the moment I am leaning toward one of the OEM setups from MITA:
Stock - https://www.mitamotorsports.com/nsx-stability/oem-suspension
Type-S - https://www.mitamotorsports.com/nsx-stability/zanardi-suspension

I have never dealt with MITA before but read good things here on prime. Do these kits come with only genuine Honda parts? Or will it include MITA aftermarket parts as well?

Can someone point me to the official Type-S ride height? I know that MITA claims that the Type-S suspension set lowers the ride height by 10mm. But I was hoping for something straight from Honda. Best I could find was this:

Thanks again for all the info. Will add updates as I make progress.
 
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Stock - https://www.mitamotorsports.com/nsx-stability/oem-suspension
Type-S - https://www.mitamotorsports.com/nsx-stability/zanardi-suspension

I have never dealt with MITA before but read good things here on prime. Do these kits come with only genuine Honda parts? Or will it include MITA aftermarket parts as well?
I think it depends on your preference of OEM-go anywhere-ignore speedbumps-80s ride height, or sportier looking-drive a bit more careful in parking lots-increased response/feel. I drove on OEM for a full season and really liked it for a street car, but after putting on the Koni/Dali (pretty close to Type-S I think but a little lower) it really made the car feel flatter and more predictable.

There is a good post here from Honcho regarding the T-S suspension: https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/question-on-zanardi-suspension.210271/post-1996745

I think the other thing to look at is that the OEM suspension from MITA comes with all new rubber and the Type-S kit is just some of it, I can't quite tell from the one photo they have, and the slightly different description but worth checking out to see if they both come with the same OEM components that make up the rest of the spring/strut stack up.

If hardware is equal my vote is for the Type-S because it will likely make the car look/feel like you expect an NSX to look/feel while still having good daily driving characteristics.
 
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Don't forget swaybars If you want a flatter cornering
 
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Keep in mind 10mm = .394 inches. Hardly enough to worry about on the street.

Go with the Type-S suspension along with the correct sway bars as suggested by @docjohn . Probably the best OEM solution for your needs.

As far as Mita Motorsports in concerned, I have ordered numerous parts from them and all arrived in perfect condition and quickly, given they are coming direct from Japan. I would recommend them without hesitation.
 

OE2

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I think it depends on your preference of OEM-go anywhere-ignore speedbumps-80s ride height, or sportier looking-drive a bit more careful in parking lots-increased response/feel. I drove on OEM for a full season and really liked it for a street car, but after putting on the Koni/Dali (pretty close to Type-S I think but a little lower) it really made the car feel flatter and more predictable.

There is a good post here from Honcho regarding the T-S suspension: https://www.nsxprime.com/threads/question-on-zanardi-suspension.210271/post-1996745

I think the other thing to look at is that the OEM suspension from MITA comes with all new rubber and the Type-S kit is just some of it, I can't quite tell from the one photo they have, and the slightly different description but worth checking out to see if they both come with the same OEM components that make up the rest of the spring/strut stack up.

If hardware is equal my vote is for the Type-S because it will likely make the car look/feel like you expect an NSX to look/feel while still having good daily driving characteristics.
I agree here with superhatch and honcho. while i can understand the desire to go OEM I am willing to bet 90's tech shocks are no were near 2020's level tech at cheaper prices. I think there was another thread where someone had their type s suspension and then took it off to save it for posterity while going with an aftermarket coilover set up in the mean time.
Because of all the discussion here I am going with BC racing DS with swift springs with 8f/6r rates. If my stock na2 suspension is worth anything (which i doubt) I will keep it in a box while i enjoy the new tech when i drive.
 
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Because of all the discussion here I am going with BC racing DS with swift springs with 8f/6r rates. If my stock na2 suspension is worth anything (which i doubt) I will keep it in a box while i enjoy the new tech when i drive.
I think you will be very happy with that setup.
 

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Why not use the shocks/springs you have? They can be adjusted to the ride height you desire. BTW it seems you used the correct procedure for measuring ride height. Congratulations on using your manual Good start! Many insist on using jack pads or fingers under the fender to top of tire to determine ride which is inaccurate and in my book, silly. The front to rear rake that you show is 60 mm and that is too great. It should be closer to 40mm. You need someone who cares to get what you have set up to your liking. That may be hard to find. From my experience the shocks on your car (flex) are often installed and adjusted incorrectly. They fool with them until they get the fender to tire look they want and screw up one of the most remarkable qualities of this car: how it was designed to feel and handle. Once you feel it right you will be sold all over again.
 
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