Hard acceleration momentary cut-outs....

Joined
4 July 2008
Messages
395
Hi all,

I'm fairly new to the NSX and have a '96 year car. 3.0l Targa/Manual with 50K mls

When I drive the car normally, accelerate smoothly and progressively it runs without fault, revving to the red line no problem....

When I drive it a bit harder and accelerate more quickly, or floor it, I seems to be getting a stutter as the engine builds up the revs. It momemtarily cuts(causing the car and me to jolt) and then continues to accelerate. Sometimes when flooring it, it will drive through one gear no problem then when I change gear and continue to accelerate, the stutter/cut will be in the next gear....

It can happen at any revs, it's only during harder acceleration. I get the same problem with the TCS switched on or off. I have noticed a clicking behind me which may be the TCS relay? This clicking seems to be an on/off clicking in sympathy with when I get on and off the throttle.

I checked the main relay and resoldered all the connections just in case but this didn't stop the problem.......

If I really boot the car, on a couple of occasions, I have ended up getting the engine & TCS light coming on.......switching off/on the ignition gets the lights back off.

The wheels/tyres are standard sizes, still OEM wheels fitted.

The valve clearances. coil packs, plugs etc have been checked by the dealer/previous owner.

It had been suggested that it may be a throttle body problem......

The car is right hand drive and I'm not sure where the code plug for bridging is located.

Just wondered if anyone had any similar experiences/advice or fixes

Cheers,

Haga
 
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Have you pulled the check engine light codes? I had something similar sounding from a MAP sensor problem. In my case it was a loose wire.
 
Why would the ignition switch cause problems only with hard acceleration or when he floors it? Could it be a weak fuel pump?
 
Sounds like the ignition switch is bad.


Guys,

many thanks for the replies so far..

I tried wiggling the key about while driving and it made no difference..

What does the coding plug look like?

Also where are the O2 sensors located?

Larry thanks for the link, once I know the locations of the connector I'll try the removal/run check......

Only thing that's different with my symptoms are that mine aren't rev specific, or within a range.....

Cheers,

Haga
 
Also where are the O2 sensors located?

Larry thanks for the link, once I know the locations of the connector I'll try the removal/run check......


Cheers,

Haga

02 sensors are located on the exhaust manifold or header. The connectors for each sensor are located on each valve cover in the passenger side lower corner. They are 4 pin gray connectors. If you follow post #5 in that thread you can test this in about 5 minutes. If the procedure does not cure it, then you can move to other things.

Remember 02 sensors send A/F ration results back to the ECU for adjustment. Depending on how they are failing, slightly different hesitation results will occur;).

HTH,
LarryB
 
OK guys I'll try the O2 plugs and or TCS next week when I have time.

While on the topic it was suggested that it could be a throttle body issue? I have the possibilty of getting an 04 ( I knows it's a 3.2 motor and I have a 96 3.0) as a test piece. I will have to "buy" it from the guy I'm getting my 02+ update parts from but he is happy to take it back for a full refund if it doesn't fix the fault......

My obvious question is, will this later throttle body work/be compatible with my car and/or would it actually be a small upgrade as it's possibly a bigger throttle body?

Haga
 
how do u know its just not your TSC kicking in and you just dont realize it?

Do you see your TSC light come on or flash at you when this is happening? If so its keeping your tires from spinning and it feels like the engine is cutting out. :)
 
My obvious question is, will this later throttle body work/be compatible with my car and/or would it actually be a small upgrade as it's possibly a bigger throttle body?

Haga

No, 1995-96 are unique. You will run into other issues, and a CEL with this swap. This is not a solution for you. You must use a 1995-96 throttle body if that is the issue.


Regards,
LarryB
 
how do u know its just not your TSC kicking in and you just dont realize it?

I get the same problem with the TCS switched on or off.


One for Larry perhaps regarding the O2 sensors....??

I unplugged both grey plugs on the cam covers and when I started up I get the engine light and the TCS light on.

Took the car out to an area where I could drive quicker and on the way, when I had to stop at lights etc, the car would stall as I came to a halt. Restarted and lights back on as before. During this phase the car ran and revved smoothly although I wasn't above say 4-5k and not accelerating hard.

Once out on an open road I accelerate hard. 2nd to 7.5k all ok, change to third, same again all ok. Get in fourth and upto about 6.5k and big jolt. I also heard the ticking behind me but I just wonder if this the the fuel pump relay which may be normal and just responding to the fuel cut and me coming of the gas when it jolts? The car won't respond to the throttle any more. Revs die down to about 3.5k and throttle now responds. Gets up to 4k though and dead on the 4k mark in any gear it's just a "jolt-jolt-jolt-jolt". The car won't go through the 4k. It's like a hard limiter. Shift up a gear and cruise till I come to some lightswhere I have to stop. Car stalls, restart it and can now slowly rev all the way back up to red line but not when hard accelerating.

Any further ideas/suggestions?

BTW a known good ECU was tried in the car buy a dealer before I bought her....

Thanks,

Haga
 
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Oh, what fun :(

Restarted and lights back on as before

I'm still with Brian, the dash lights should not go off. The prime culprit is usually the Ignition Switch. (on reflection: this may be a description error, do you mean the lights returned to their normal state, but never lost power?)

The rest of your symptoms could be a weak or intermittent fuel pump. After the switch, I'd take a hard look at the Main Relay <b>again</b>. The MR supplies power to both the ECU and the Fuel Pump (and other things).

A half empty tank of fuel will exacerbate a weak fuel pump, so try your tests with a full tank and see if that changes the behavior. You could also jump the fuel pump relay to run on high voltage for a short time and determine if that changes the symptoms.

Good Luck

Drew
 
Oh, what fun :(



I'm still with Brian, the dash lights should not go off. The prime culprit is usually the Ignition Switch. (on reflection: this may be a description error, do you mean the lights returned to their normal state, but never lost power?)

Hi Drew, yes what I was meaning is that when I restarted the car after stalling, the CEL & TCS lights came back on (expected due to the two o2 sensors being disconnected). I am correct in thinking that these are the two grey connectors right on the edge of your passenger side (US, although I am in the UK and it's drivers side!!) cam covers? I think these are the ones Larry was referring to?

I have just been reading Jetpilots thread regarding his car jolting at the fuel pump relays 4k switch on. It's interesting that mine wouldn't rev past 4k and just bounced there like on a limiter. It may be something I should try next? Hopefully disconnecting the o2 sensors wouldn't have caused this issue? I don't remember getting the continuos jolting at 4k when the O2 sensors were connected although I could still hear the clicks behind me.... Mine would rev past 4k and jolt at any revs, then be ok and jolt again but would happily go down below, through and above 4k again the next time it jolted with hard accelleration.......

Haga
 
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Based on your results so far, it is definately not the 02 sensors.

You mentioned this:

Restarted and lights back on as before.

What do you mean? The CEL and TCS lights, or were the dash lights out before and now they are back on?
 
have you replaced the main relay and the ignition switch? Those are quick fixes to rule out.
 
I have just been reading Jetpilots thread regarding his car jolting at the fuel pump relays 4k switch on. It's interesting that mine wouldn't rev past 4k and just bounced there like on a limiter. It may be something I should try next? Hopefully disconnecting the o2 sensors wouldn't have caused this issue? I don't remember getting the continuos jolting at 4k when the O2 sensors were connected although I could still hear the clicks behind me.... Mine would rev past 4k and jolt at any revs, then be ok and jolt again but would happily go down below, through and above 4k again the next time it jolted with hard accelleration.......

Haga

If the fuel pump relay or resistor was bad I don't think you would hard jolt.
 
Just an FYI, I have done the 02 sensor test more times then I can count. It has never had any bad side effects.

Regards,
LarryB
 
I am also having a jolt upon shifting from 1st to 2nd during hard acceleration. :frown:
 
I was at the dealers today regarding another matter and asked them about this problem.

They had enough time to check the codes for me.

Blink codes were 40-1, 40-2, 40-3

Diagnostics software brought up. 06-1 TVC Com1 Motor Check 1
07-1 TVC Com2 Check 1
07-2 TVC Motor Com2 Check 2

Any ideas where to start with this?

Thanks
 
I was at the dealers today regarding another matter and asked them about this problem.

They had enough time to check the codes for me.

Blink codes were 40-1, 40-2, 40-3

Diagnostics software brought up. 06-1 TVC Com1 Motor Check 1
07-1 TVC Com2 Check 1
07-2 TVC Motor Com2 Check 2

Any ideas where to start with this?

Thanks


Theser codes are from the 02 sensor test. You must reset the ECU now and then if you get a CEL you can check the codes.

Front Fuse Box on Passenger side foot well, 7.5A fuse, pull it for 30 seconds then put it back in. The ECU will be cleared and now if you get a code it will be real.

The 41,42 codes are 02 heater failure because you pulled the plugs for the 02 test:). You may not get a 43 once all is reconnected and reset.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Theser codes are from the 02 sensor test. You must reset the ECU now and then if you get a CEL you can check the codes.

Front Fuse Box on Passenger side foot well, 7.5A fuse, pull it for 30 seconds then put it back in. The ECU will be cleared and now if you get a code it will be real.

The 41,42 codes are 02 heater failure because you pulled the plugs for the 02 test:). You may not get a 43 once all is reconnected and reset.

Regards,
LarryB

The ECU was reset and then the 06-1, 07-1 and 07-2 came back straight away. I told the tech about the O2 test I did and he said that at first he got 5 codes up and that two of these would have been the O2 sensors. Sorry I didn't explain myself fully.

It's the 06-1, 07-1 and 07-2 that are the hard faults now.

Just for clarification. Are you saying that 40-1= 41 and 40-2=42 etc? If so, would I be correct in saying that the 06-1 etc is a 61 code. Just want to know if the two are the same thing for future discussions:confused:

The 06-1, 07-1 and 07-2 were produced by the tablet screen Honda diagnostic tool.

Any ideas where to take this?

Thanks,

Haga
 
I do not know what kind of OBDII reader you are using, but I thought 40-1 would be a 41.

A 06-1 is different and I cannot interpret that, except with an assumption it is a 61. I honestly think we are at the point here that you need someone local with expertise to look at the car.

IF the code interpretation is correct that these are a 61 , 71, 72, the 71 and 72 are misfires in cyl 1 and 2.

Regards,
LarryB
 
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