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Help on Abs delete can you still use a line lock ?
- Thread starter onestepx
- Start date
It shouldnt be much different with or without abs. Looking at the kits they sell on summit and other places it actually looks very simple to install.
It will be very easy to accomplish even with a ABS delete.
With the ABS delete you probably have 2 distribution block like the one offered from dali (You better off making your own kit, it will be much nicer: If you need a parts list I can give you a list of things I got for my ABS delete. I did my own hard lines)
Dali's ABS delete
However looking at the install on the distribution block on the image above it will not work with your set up with the line lock. Since in the distribution block you have one front and one rear. That's if you plumb it the way others have with the ABS delete from Dali.
Page 717 on the service manual shows the lines plumb differently
Secondary piston in the rear with the 12x1mm inverted flare to -3 fitting will feed the rear right/left
Primary piston out front with 10x1mm inverted flare to -3 fitting will feed the front
If you plan on plumbing it how how the ABS delete look like on dali's page it will not work. I would plumb the secondary piston to the distribution block feeding the rear brakes. The rear brakes are the shown RL and RR on the picture from dali's page.
Now with the primary piston up front with the 10x1mm fitting I would plumb that to the line lock kit on the inlet. The outlet will go to the distribution block and feed the front two brakes. The front two brakes are the LONG brake lines coming from the back. You will have to rebend these lines and also flare it if you decide on doing -3 AN conversion for your brake lines.
Heres a diagram I drew up I hope it helps. This is how I would plumb the kit.
It will be very easy to accomplish even with a ABS delete.
With the ABS delete you probably have 2 distribution block like the one offered from dali (You better off making your own kit, it will be much nicer: If you need a parts list I can give you a list of things I got for my ABS delete. I did my own hard lines)
Dali's ABS delete
However looking at the install on the distribution block on the image above it will not work with your set up with the line lock. Since in the distribution block you have one front and one rear. That's if you plumb it the way others have with the ABS delete from Dali.
Page 717 on the service manual shows the lines plumb differently
Secondary piston in the rear with the 12x1mm inverted flare to -3 fitting will feed the rear right/left
Primary piston out front with 10x1mm inverted flare to -3 fitting will feed the front
If you plan on plumbing it how how the ABS delete look like on dali's page it will not work. I would plumb the secondary piston to the distribution block feeding the rear brakes. The rear brakes are the shown RL and RR on the picture from dali's page.
Now with the primary piston up front with the 10x1mm fitting I would plumb that to the line lock kit on the inlet. The outlet will go to the distribution block and feed the front two brakes. The front two brakes are the LONG brake lines coming from the back. You will have to rebend these lines and also flare it if you decide on doing -3 AN conversion for your brake lines.
Heres a diagram I drew up I hope it helps. This is how I would plumb the kit.
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you can use one either way. buy the moroso, not the summit brand. my summit brand one had a leaky solenoid that bled off pressure half way through the burnout... seemed pretty common
Tuan has a good writeup on how to plumb in a line lock.
But, you have to keep in mind how the ABS distributes the fluid coming out of the master cylinders. Honda designed the system such that if one circuit was lost, opposing front and rear brakes would still work together to safely stop the vehicle.
Manufacturers do it different ways. While my car was still primarily street-driven, I would leave it as Honda designed it in the event of a failure.
If you need a line lock, the only way is to do it like Tuan described. My plan is to redo my brakes with real dual master cylinders and a balance bar to adjust bias (that's my old setup in the pictures above and why I marked the MC outputs and fittings the way I did - to preserve the braking split as the ABS system did internally).
Really, what's the chance of having a problem? Pretty low, but I've completely lost front brakes once on a race car and there's nothing you can do but ride it into the barriers :frown: That's a pretty bad feeling....
Dave
But, you have to keep in mind how the ABS distributes the fluid coming out of the master cylinders. Honda designed the system such that if one circuit was lost, opposing front and rear brakes would still work together to safely stop the vehicle.
Manufacturers do it different ways. While my car was still primarily street-driven, I would leave it as Honda designed it in the event of a failure.
If you need a line lock, the only way is to do it like Tuan described. My plan is to redo my brakes with real dual master cylinders and a balance bar to adjust bias (that's my old setup in the pictures above and why I marked the MC outputs and fittings the way I did - to preserve the braking split as the ABS system did internally).
Really, what's the chance of having a problem? Pretty low, but I've completely lost front brakes once on a race car and there's nothing you can do but ride it into the barriers :frown: That's a pretty bad feeling....
Dave
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