Help, VTEC solenoid

Joined
2 January 2002
Messages
4
Hello all, this is my first post, hopefully someone has some light to shed on my question: Dealer says the VTEC solenoid is leaking and repair cost is $650... Has anyone had this done/done it themselves? Any advice? What is the consequence of not performing this service?

Thanks again
 
I dont know if this helps, but last month I had my 60K service done, the Tech told me that Vtec solenoids are prone to leaking and that unless the solenoid is no longer functioning there is no need to replace them, he did say that it was not one of those do it yourself kind of thing, but I guess that would depend on your skill set. I believe it would require a few specialized tools.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 
Thanks.

Hey, anyone have/know of any engine picture pages that would show various components (such as this VTEC solenoid) ???
 
The service tech were I live said the same thing about my first NSX. He said it is common for this to leak a little on the NSX. He said not to worry about it and keep an eye on it.
 
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You can see the rubber o-ring gaskets that outline the chambers; these are the spool valve seals.

Did the mechanic say which valve was leaking? There’s a valve for the front head and one for the rear. I’m not sure what a “leaky spool valve” means, does it mean that the gasket is leaking or the valve itself is leaking? If it’s just the rubber gasket then I’m not sure why it would cost $650 to replace a $10 part. From what I can remember, the valves are somewhat of a pain to get to, but I don’t think they’re a $650 pain, more like an hour or two. Also, the front or rear valve may be more difficult to replace than the other so it’s worth asking which valve is leaking.

DanO
 
I had a faulty switch (the green thing on Dano's picture). To replace it, Don (hilltop Auto Service) took the whole spool valve assembly out.

When he installed it back onto the car, he mentioned that it is somewhat a pain. Due to the gasket keep slipping off. He also said that that what caused leaks that he seen in few NSXs. If it is properly installed it should last a long time and shouldn't be a problem.
 
wow..vtec selenoid is a $12 gasket. It's a common leak on most honda/acura's...similarly to the exhaust cam seal. I can't BELIEVE a $650 price. That's crazyness. Vtec sel is held on with 3 bolts....3 bolts, a $12 gasket..and that much? haeha. At first i thought $6.50...i was thinking..thats a good deal for the gasket.... you could buy a manual and the gasket and a 10mm socket/wrench setup and save 10 times the price. maybe give it a try, It would be fun.
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oh...i forgot the manual is posted...so make that 30 times cheaper. The is the actual Helms factory manual posted....is there a copyright infringement issue? I don't see how helms could allow that to be posted publically. What's up with that...did nsxprime get permission somehow?

jack of all trades, master of some.

[This message has been edited by true (edited 03 January 2002).]
 
Originally posted by true:
It's a common leak on most honda/acura's...similarly to the exhaust cam seal.

Actually the solenoid seals are not “similar” to the cam seals. There is a world of difference between the two. Replacing a cam seal may indeed be a $650 deal because the cams need to come off, which is a somewhat laborious task, maybe 5-6 hours for someone who has never done it before.

Maybe the shop was quoting a cam seal instead of a spool valve seal?

DanO
 
When a cost sounds high, ask. They should be able to explain it to you - how much labor for doing what, the cost of the parts, etc.
 
Dan-o, sorry you miunderstood me. I was not comparing exahust cam seal to the vtec selenoid gasket....I was trying saying the vtec selenoid is known to leak, similaraly to the exhaust cam seals in honda's. (distributer side) They are both easily replaceable gaskets/seals...that leak :) obviously not one in the same though. You read it wrong. The commonly leaking exhaust cam seal can be replaced by removing the valve cover by the way. No cam removal is needed.

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jack of all trades, master of some.
 
Originally posted by true:
The commonly leaking exhaust cam seal can be replaced by removing the valve cover by the way. No cam removal is needed.

Not to be too pedantic, but I replaced all the cam seals on my NSX last winter and I don’t understand how one could properly replace the seal (I assume that you’re talking about the black rubber/plastic cam seal plug on the driver’s side of the car) without taking off the cam holder on that side, which entails removing the cam rails (24 bolts to be torqued in sequence) and timing belt. At the time I had the cams and timing belt off anyway so I guess I’ve never looked at replacing these plug seals alone. But from what I can remember, these seals have molded rings that fit into grooves in the head and in the cam holder which are sandwiched in place when the rails and holders are tightened (and glued). That is, they ain’t coming out unless they are un-sandwiched by removing the cam holder. Maybe there’s a way to loosen everything up a bit to pull these out without removing a bunch of stuff? Anyway, the seals and cam holder were sealed from the factory with Honda bond and that would need to be thoroughly cleaned off (cleaned both on the head, cam holder and seal) before the seal could be properly replaced. I’m not sure how one could properly clean these parts without removing at least the cam holder on that side. So, maybe there’s a way to do this without removing the cams and timing belt, but still, it’s more involved and potentially hazardous (like the cam coming loose and skipping a tooth on the timing belt) than replacing the spool valve gasket. I’m going from year-old memory here so anyone please correct me if I’m mistaken.

DanO
 
When Niello did the TB/WP, they also quoted me $350 to replace 4 cam plugs ($7.14 each) that they THOUGHT were leaking. After I got the car back I had oil on the ground WTF? I took the car back and Norm Iong noticed the leak was coming from the VTEC solenoid on the driver's side. They fixed the leak free of charge AND installed my CT headers for 150 bucks... Again it's not how bad they messed up...but how well they recovered.
 
ditto DanO's comments. I've had mine out and they are designed as he describes. I don't see any way around at least loosening the 24 bolts per side and lifting the tail end of the cams. Perhaps you could avoid pulling the belt that way, but it's still far more than just the valve/cam cover.
 
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