Inner CV Joint Boot Leak

[LJSB]

If you don't like using the ones that came with the kit because they don't have the fold-over tabs then go to NAPA or any auto parts stores and get the kind of clamps you like best.

You could even bring your band pliers so they give you the style that works with that tool.

Your prior post says you already did the driver's side axle so why not get the same type of bands you used there?

They're cheap, $3-$4 dollars and you'll be good to go with no worries. HTH.:smile:

 

[DanRC30]

The driver's side is rebuilt except for the clamps. And its still not in the car. I'd like to use the OEM clamps, but I don't know the right way to fasten them.

Nobody answered my question about the trans seal also. Is there a special tool needed or do I just pry it out with a screwdriver and push the new one in?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

#1 So when I fold it over, I just hammer the loop flat and hope it holds...? There are no tabs to fold down over the excess band material.


#2 Nobody answered my question about the trans seal also. Is there a special tool needed or do I just pry it out with a screwdriver and push the new one in?

#1 = Yes

#2 = Yes, carefully

Check your e-mail...

 

[DanRC30]

#2 = Yes, carefully

Check your e-mail...

Hhhmmm......... can you elaborate on #2? What should I watch out for? I've changed plenty of seals before... how is this different? What surprises await me in there?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Hhhmmm......... can you elaborate on #2? What should I watch out for? I've changed plenty of seals before... how is this different? What surprises await me in there?

No Surprise, just be careful

 

[DanRC30]

Ok, will do.

I just pulled the clamps off the passenger side and it seems that the inner boot was replaced at one point because the clamps on that boot are the newer style. Seeing how these were fastened showed me perfectly how to put the new clamps on. I wasn't aware of wrapping the band 2x and then peening. That was very helpful to see!

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Ok, will do.

I just pulled the clamps off the passenger side and it seems that the inner boot was replaced at one point because the clamps on that boot are the newer style. Seeing how these were fastened showed me perfectly how to put the new clamps on. I wasn't aware of wrapping the band 2x and then peening. That was very helpful to see!

Make sure you check your e-mail. I sent you the document that tells you exactly how to use the tool and tighten the bands from Honda. Full pics etc.

 

[xory72]

Make sure you check your e-mail. I sent you the document that tells you exactly how to use the tool and tighten the bands from Honda. Full pics etc.

Larry,

Can you send me that same document for installing the band? You can PM or email me.

My original band popped off for some reason and I need to intsall the new band tonight. I have the new band already ... and it's exactly like the one DanRC30 posted from Acura. (no tabs to crimp down)

I have the band winding tool but I am wondering how to keep the bent part of the band down exspecially since this is the strap covered by the heat shield.

I appreciate you taking the time to send this to me.

Thanks
Darrin

 

[DanRC30]

Ok, I'm rebuilding the passenger side inner joint and I realize its not moving freely like the other side. I also noticed that the clamps that hold the boot on are the newer style.... hhhmmmmm..... what's going on here?

Here's why the joint isn't moving properly:


Notice the split in there? that don't look right! That washer looks a little beat up too. And I found a bunch of crunched up needle bearings in the grease. D'OH!!!

So, should I...

a) Replace the entire assembly at a cost of $778.68?

b) Replace the inner joint which comprises of the housing, spider and new bearings at a cost of $338.40?

I want to do the right thing which may or may not include replacing the entire assembly. Thoughts?

 

[xory72]

See if you can find a set of used drive shafts that are in good condition. I mean that is a posibility ... or no?

Tough decision!

Larry ... thank you for sending that CV band service bulitin. The double band makes sense now and I got it installed no problem.

 

[DanRC30]

My car has 55k on it and its clean so I ordered a new joint assembly and expedited shipping from Findlay Acura in Vegas. I get the best prices from those guys. Parts should be here by Friday. Now all I need is a BIG torque wrench!

 

[ftuhy]

My car has 55k on it and its clean so I ordered a new joint assembly and expedited shipping from Findlay Acura in Vegas. I get the best prices from those guys. Parts should be here by Friday. Now all I need is a BIG torque wrench!

Dan,

You know big momma torque 3/4" drive wrench is available. I'm busy Saturday morning, but I may be able to run down to your place after that. I have a 3/4" socket set as well as a 3/4' to 1/2" adapter if needed. Give me a call.

You can always assemble everything and torque the nut to about 100+ lb-ft to begin with, then tighten to the final spec when I bring big momma.

Frank

 

[DanRC30]

Sounds good Frank! I have a 1/2" drive torque wrench that gpes up to 250ft lbs, but not sure if its big enough...

 

[DanRC30]

yea i expected this , there is always exceptions , your tranny probably was ok , were you constantly power shifting , stressing synchros , probably not , you 'll be ok , but TRUST ME when you start to grind in 2nd ,or 3rd , its the begining of the end , the blocker ring is bottomed on the gear , it can no longer synchronize , that is what these lubes do , they give you added time thru friction , drive it normally it will work . :wink:

Oh, I wish I picked this stuff up earlier. Putting everything back together today and I didn't realize I need OEM Honda oil. I guess I won't be driving today...

 

[DanRC30]

Trying to get the driver's side axle in. It doesn't want to go. I think it's hung up on that internal snap ring thing. Any tricks on this? Maybe I should put the axle into the trans first and then into the hub? Need some help please!?!?

 

[DanRC30]

Ok, I figured out how to get the axle to go into the trans. That was not a simple task, but with a little technique, it became simply simple.

Everything is together except for that little bracket that holds the O2 sensor wire. For the life of me I can't remember how that attaches! Anyone know for sure?

 

[ftuhy]

Oh, I wish I picked this stuff up earlier. Putting everything back together today and I didn't realize I need OEM Honda oil. I guess I won't be driving today...

Dan,

For my '96, Acura sold the '95 manual with a '96 supplement. In '95, they say use motor oil. In the '96 supplement it essentially says "aw s..t, that causes premature transmission wear. Use Honda Manual Transmission Oil only". :frown:

I'll be stopping by with the 3 qts of Honda "white cap" Manual Trans Oil and big momma torque wrench tonight.:biggrin:

 

[DanRC30]

SCHAWEET! See ya soon!

Dan,

For my '96, Acura sold the '95 manual with a '96 supplement. In '95, they say use motor oil. In the '96 supplement it essentially says "aw s..t, that causes premature transmission wear. Use Honda Manual Transmission Oil only". :frown:

I'll be stopping by with the 3 qts of Honda "white cap" Manual Trans Oil and big momma torque wrench tonight.:biggrin:

 

[DanRC30]

Car is on the ground and passed its first test drive with flying colors. Thanks again Frank!!! And thanks to all in this forum for the help. I may seem like I don't know how to work on cars, but I most certainly do. I just like to ask a lot of questions to make sure I'm doing things RIGHT as well as efficient!