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Intake Manifold Overhaul

Joined
27 July 2007
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7,383
Location
Denver, CO
Between the PCV gunk, EGR, dirt, throttle body cleaner and oversprayed K&N oil over the years, our early 1991-1994 NSX's all are in need of a serious intake manifold refresh. Since my engine was out for the head gasket repair, I took the manifold back home to do a little fall cleaning. My NSX has 90,000 miles and did have a K&N short ram intake on it for a while until I got smart and replaced with a stock airbox a few years ago.

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This is the front side of my throttle body- cleaned in 2010 via the "LarryB" method. I did this after getting rid of the oily K&N and as you can see, 3 years later still nice and clean.

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Now compare the rear side. Yuck! This goes to show why the only way to reliably clean the system is to remove it. Use liberal amounts of cleaner on the butterfly and inside the bore. Also make sure to squirt some cleaner in the small hole on the bottom left corner. This is the idle air passage. Let the fluid soak for 5 minutes and then blow out with compressed air.

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After removing the rubber spacer, here is my intake. Nasty. Just shoot it with cleaner and wipe clean with a lint-free shop rag. Squirt cleaner into the PCV nipple, brake master nipple and the 4 small tubes on top of the intake. These are the vacuum control ports that are vital to many different systems on the NSX. You will not believe the black garbage that comes out of them. Spray compressed air to blow them out.

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These are the various air ports that control a lot of stuff on the NSX. Make sure to clean out each one with a liberal amount of cleaner and blast with compressed air. Wipe any residue with a rag.

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Here are the fast idle valve and EACV. The fast idle valve contains a thermowax pellet that is bathed in coolant flow from the engine. When cold, the valve is open and creates a vacuum leak to increase the RPM to 2,000. As the coolant warms up, the wax expands and lifts a plunger to seal the vacuum leak, leveling off to a normal idle speed of 850. The EACV is an electronic actuated plunger valve that is controlled by the ECU and introduces varying levels of vacuum leak to compensate for things like the A/C kicking on, etc. in order to hold a steady idle. Both rely on bleed air and both can get gummed up. Mine were filthy.

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Fast idle valve cleaned and re-installed with new bolts, gaskets and top screws. Remove the top cover and spray carb cleaner into the top until it flows out of the bottom clear. Blow out with compressed air and let dry overnight. Make sure to use a new gasket when replacing the top cover. I also used new screws and lockwashers.

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EACV cleaned with a new screen. I found the best way to install the new screen was to tap it in with a 13 mm deep socket and hammer. It is a press-fit so be careful not to bend or damage the screen. The old one was caked solid with black soot- explains why my NSX would die after starting sometimes. Clean in the same manner as the fast idle valve, keeping in mind the plunger seals the two chambers so you should spray and drain each port. Also take care not to let cleaner drain back into the solenoid. Again, a new gasket is a must.

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Clean EACV back on the manifold with new bolts. Note clean fuel injector ports. Got them nice and shiny- they were caked with black goo.

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Clean bottom pan. I s$%t you not- this had over 1 cup of motor oil floating in the bottom.

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Clean manifold with new gasket installed.

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VVIS check. All set screws confirmed swages are all 90 degree straight up and down and tight.

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Last step. Fuel injectors are back from RC in Torrance. Nice and clean.

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Test report. Looks like running Techron at every oil change isn't enough. :D

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Nice write-up.

How do you clean the Fast Idle Valve? Do you remove it to clean? I don't have access to compressed air.

Any other parts to to do this beside the intake manifold gasket, EAVC screen & seals? Thanks,
 
Keep that lower intake plenum oil-free with an oil catch can.
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I'm actually running a vent filter on each valve cover. I get zero smell outside the car and the TB stays clean as the day I cleaned it. Not sure of any downside but a year so far and all's good.
 
I purchased on eBay. Can't find another from the same seller, but you can contact him at [email protected]. It's extremely high quality for under $100.
 
Great article . aRE there part numbers for the two hoses associated with eacv and fast idle valve? Thanks
 
Great article . aRE there part numbers for the two hoses associated with eacv and fast idle valve? Thanks

Thanks! There's actually three hoses (I re-used my old ones as they were only about 4 years old when I removed the manifold):

19522-PR7-A00
19523-PR7-A00
19524-PR7-A00
 
How did you clean the fast idle and air control valves? Did you take off all screws available and just scrub everywhere that is accessible? or can I soak it in solution?
 
How did you clean the fast idle and air control valves? Did you take off all screws available and just scrub everywhere that is accessible? or can I soak it in solution?

On the FITV, you remove the top cover and spray throttle body cleaner into it and let it flow out the bottom. Do NOT remove the bottom cover with the coolant nipples- the gasket is not available separately! For the EACV, make sure to spray the cleaner so that it flows AWAY from the black solenoid. Honestly, for the EACV, the main thing is to replace the filter screen. The valve itself stays pretty clean.
 
So I was fiddling with it. I finally took them off but it was not fun. some coolant also spilled out. Should I be okay to just fill up my coolant reservoir tank after reinstalling the valves?
 
Awesome!!! I'm interested in seeing them as I'm fighting a coolant leak out of my expansion tank overflow tube...hoping it is just the radiator cap, but if it is the head gasket, then I'll be doing the intake cleaning/VVIS screw "tack welding" as well as LMAs, cam plugs, and a few other things "while I'm there" if I have to do head gaskets...
 
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