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Just another j32 swap + 6-speed

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Hey David,
i take It these axles were custom made for you. I'm sorry if I missed the post about how the axles were different and what changes you had to make to have Dss customize your axles. Can you share that info with us again. Again I apologize if the axles were already discussed. Btw keep up the good work. You know we are keeping up with you
 
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Those things are beefy and the rubber is very thick on the boots, def quality axles. I was assured they are made from the best stuff available on the market. I wish I would get a brake on them but, I had to pay full retail custom made price. It took about 6 weeks from the time I made a payment till the day I got them. Very nice people, great to work with just little pricy.

Yes, those axles were custom. On the inside they needed the CL hats and on the outside they needed NSX hats that went to oem wheel hubs. Here are the specs
Driver side. (Left)
19.125"
Inside 27 teeth Outside 28 teeth
Passenger side. (Right)
21.125"
Inside 29 teeth Outside 28 teeth

The only gatha was that the intermediate shaft supposedly is male on CL but in my case, it was female. I know if was female because I had the donor car and I remove it myself. I had to take some pictures to prove it’s a female intermediate shaft. At the end I did not have to ship any axles to them for measurements. I just measure the length from tranny to hub on each side.

One thing I notice today it does not have the ABS ring on the outter hat, but I was going to do ABS delete anyway. It’s something that I’ll def ask them..
 
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Managed to install the axles, the driver side slide in like a glove, the passenger needed some force to lock in on intermediate shaft, but the dimensions are spot on. The news about the ABS rings is that I did not specified initially about it so they did not made one. Now I would have to ship them back and it will be additional $100 to machine it.. Lesson for anyone going that route to make sure you mention you want the ABS rings, lol. I don't need them but don't like to be forced out of option this way. I'm not drive shaft expert, I don't know what to order, it's their business to ask me if I need ABS rings. In anycase I'm fine with it just want to share.

Getting ready to install the rear brakes and while they are out I want to powder coat them. Bought wrinkle red and chrome powder coat. Want the calipers in wrinkle red and chrome the letters and stripes on them. I could not find any help how to disassemble them so I figure I do this small vid to help someone in case they be doing the same.

 
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Thanks, the install was not that bad either. Below is pic after I powder coat it.

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Was hoping to drive it next week but as luck will always have it something come up that I don't think it will happen. But I did had some time to work on radio and exhaust y pipe. The radio I wanted with flat face no buttons so pick this pioneer appradio. There are better ones out there but for me requirement was flat surface. Had to cnc cut the hole for it as the dimensions were not standard and there would be large gaps between radio and trim.

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I want to have cat so I got this high flow cat that I'll be using. It makes street legal and I hope maybe it will be little more quiet.
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Update:
Finished the y pipe for exhaust, then wanted to drive it out and that's where whole lot of problems come out. First was that every time I put in reverse I blow fuse 5 under dash. To fix that I had to introduce extra relay. I updated the excel worksheet with pinout.

Then with engine running I could not smoothly get in to a gear. Resolution was that I previously had rps clutch and I drill extra mounting hole on clutch pedal so pedal would feel lighter. But with this oem clutch it was not fully disengaging it. So I just move it to the stock position.

Also it started to make noise like brake pads going bad when my foot is off the clutch pedal. I think that's pilot bearing, I spray some grease on it and noise kind of went away. If noise returns it might be master or slave cylinders or the new luk pilot bearing. What I notice is that the clutch fork is loose when no pressure is applied. This might make the pilot bearing ride on the plate slightly where it already should be riding on it firmly. I'm thinking with no pedal pressure it still should be firmly planted on clutch plate so pilot bearing spins. I have CL master cylinder and the mounting is the same just needs little fab work if need be. Will see how this plays out over time for now the noise went away.

The last thing is hunting idle but for that I think I need to bleed the coolant to get rid of air pockets in throttle body or it could be the evap switch. If anyone have some info how to work around the evap switch please share. Maybe there is a way to retro fit with original nsx system.

Here are few pics

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You're doing great! There will always be little issues popping up after something like this, and it sounds like you're working through them efficiently. Sorry I don't have anything to contribute on the hunting idle issue.
 
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No prob, thx. Took longer but I figure it out. The hunting idle was because of bad fast idle valve. Once replaced it idles perfect.

On to the trouble codes. I started with 5 codes and now I'm down to zero :) I still have 4 pending for evap but I have no idea yet how to deal with it. Looking at diagrams I might need fuel pressure sensor from CL and purge valve. But at list I'm happy with clearing the 5 major ones.

Oh, one of the major codes was for electronic load detection. There is a way to by pass it but I'm sure hondas design it for certain purpose. Since I have the donor car I cut out the fuse box where the electronic load detector sits between the alternator and battery cable. Just after installing two codes clear out :) from what I could find out it reads current flow.

Here is the electronic load detector installed next to fuse box. Need to fit it better but for now will do.
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Nice build! It is a lot of work.

What codes are you still getting? The ELD and EVAP can be simulated with resistors. Try a 820-1000 ohm 10 watt on the ELD and a 1.5M ohm 1/4 watt on the EVAP, just be sure to use the correct ground (chassis ground/logic ground vs. sensor ground).

Cheers
 
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Nice build! It is a lot of work.

What codes are you still getting? The ELD and EVAP can be simulated with resistors. Try a 820-1000 ohm 10 watt on the ELD and a 1.5M ohm 1/4 watt on the EVAP, just be sure to use the correct ground (chassis ground/logic ground vs. sensor ground).

Cheers

Yea, it was a project and some. If my motor would not blow I would not do it, but at the end I think it's still cheaper route then fixing the nsx engine. Thanks for the info!! that is very very helpfull. I'll def try it on the EVAP. Got it, so the same 1.5M ohm 1/4 watt goes on EVAP canister vent, canister purge and bypass valve one each? I also see fuel tank pressure sensor that I think somehow is part of this EVAP? I'm getting P0450 Pending code.

Today took my first drive and my first impression is that 1st gear feels short, but 2nd it's where the car feels very light and strong. I did not want to push on first drive but the 2nd gear is very predictable and every time I shifted I had kool-aid smile. The sound and the pickup was awesome. Need to order camera mount and I'll post a video.
 
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Yea, it was a project and some. If my motor would not blow I would not do it, but at the end I think it's still cheaper route then fixing the nsx engine. Thanks for the info!! that is very very helpfull. I'll def try it on the EVAP. Got it, so the same 1.5M ohm 1/4 watt goes on EVAP canister vent, canister purge and bypass valve one each? I also see fuel tank pressure sensor that I think somehow is part of this EVAP? I'm getting P0450 Pending code.

Today took my first drive and my first impression is that 1st gear feels short, but 2nd it's where the car feels very light and strong. I did not want to push on first drive but the 2nd gear is very predictable and every time I shifted I had kool-aid smile. The sound and the pickup was awesome. Need to order camera mount and I'll post a video.

One of the EVAP wires should go to the factory NSX EVAP canister purge solenoid, the other ones don't exist on the early NSX's, so yes, try the resistor. The P0450 PTANK code I believe is also the same resistor.

Cheers
 
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Ok, still have few loose ends to do but it's drivable. The EVAP is good now:) Thanks!! but I think I messed up something with alternator or my alternator is simply going bad. I have the light on for alternator. It's slightly lighted up. It was always there but now I need to get around to it. I check all the wires and all looks fine but the alternator was from the donor car and I think it was just time for it.

Took short vid, but I don't push it as I still don't feel comfortable with all the things working and also clutch needs to brake it.

 
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Thanks. I was not gunning it but first gear it's very easy to chip tires and I have 275's in the rear. So far I'm happy that there are no fluid leaks. I try not to take it longer then a mile from home as there was a lot of fab work and want to make sure everything is stable. I'll def take it to the nsx meet once all is working. The clutch pedal is not hard and the shifts between the gears are smooth too. But I think that's because I used the oem dual mass flywheel. Not a fan of dual mass as I know they have tendency to go bad after a while, but for now it will do.
 
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Nice job!!! Welcome to club!
 
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Nice job!!! Welcome to club!


Thanks. We should have our own J swap section, haha. So far I'm happy how this swap turned out and slowly I'm starting to open her up. It took about 9months from just an idea to be back on the road. There are few things that could get improvement. Specially the shifter cables, I'm not too happy with those. It does the job but I know I can run a cable over the fuel tank and straight to engine bay, but this will need some linkage fabrication that I did not want to spend time on. Now that all is running I might go back and play with it over the winter time. I also might fabricate new rear tranny mount, current does it's job but now I can fabricate more complicated one and use OEM mounting point on engine instead on tranny bolts.

I heard there are few shops that are working on twin turbo setup and one would hope that it will be simple setup. Still no solid info or pics to back it up. Gravity driven oil return should work. In addition water cooling the turbos should make this very stable setup. But since it's for nsx and not for CL, TL or MDX I'm sure it will have nsx price tag with it. Looking in to the future I'll get spare engine and most likely fabricate my own budget friendly twin turbo as I'm afraid what ever will be available it will be arm and a leg. Just of top of my head I would use K04's or some hybrid of it. Goal would be 400-450hp with 380-390tq range. Small turbos with high tq. It will have instant response and with short gears it will hopefully make it more interesting. Personally I like smaller turbo with small or no lag time. On my old nsx I had gt30, 35 and 40. And the most fun I had was on gt30. Instant kick in the pants. It did not make lot of HP but dam it was fun to drive. I'm not tracking the car and on street I'll not be ever redlining 3rd gear before running out of road so it will keep me happy if I decide to go twin on my own. For now enjoying the purity of NA :)
 
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Small update:

The next best thing after starting the engine was getting AC to work. To get it running I just cut the CL hose and nsx hose and use a pipe join. My first attempt welding them did not work. The aluminum weld on pipe hold good but in the process it melted the rubber in clamp from welding heat and hose bursted when I charge ac, lol. Oil all over engine and garage floor, a lot to cleanup.

Trying to manage the cables little better, to hide the fuel lines I used this aluminum C shape bar 2” wide and it fits right in. The cable will be run under it. I cut out the letters and sand blasted after. Was going to powder coat it wrinkle black but after sanding it I might keep it as is.

https://youtu.be/NlRK7hoS2sw

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So far so good car is reliable and drives great but this winter I bet I’ll have to do something about the shift linkage. I would like less friction from the shifter lines. The more I drive it the more I want to fix it to have short shifting cables. This long length cables creates a lot of friction inside of it.




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Small update:

The next best thing after starting the engine was getting AC to work. To get it running I just cut the CL hose and nsx hose and use a pipe join. My first attempt welding them did not work. The aluminum weld on pipe hold good but in the process it melted the rubber in clamp from welding heat and hose bursted when I charge ac, lol. Oil all over engine and garage floor, a lot to cleanup.



NSXMUGEN, I have the NSX-J custom A/C lines if you need them. They have custom adapters to connect to the J32a2/J35a3 compressor and NSX chassis so you don't have to cut the expensive NSX lines.

JNSX-AC Lines.jpg
 
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Velocitized, those are some beautiful a/c cables! Somehow I forgot to check with you, didn’t know you had them already. I’ll not going to post picture of my because I’m embarrassed how they come out but for anyone that is doing the swap def get those because it was major pita. I cut up my originals and making this work was harder then I thought. Having it available makes swap much easier.

Macattak, great idea. I initially wanted to keep the sleeper look with the engine cover on but after I took it off now to see, I like :) ill also engrave “J32A2” on the intake aluminum plate on the top of the engine. Just didn’t get to it. Here are few pics with engine cover off.
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doing the manual j32a2 complete swap.. can i ask a few questions ?

do you have any check engine codes on ?
whats your redline ?
does your vtec engage ?
since ur car was originally a v6.. swapping in another v6.. is the mph and rpm gauge working properly ?

ive notcied on auto j32a swaps.. people had to install a square wave pulse generator " dakota digital " so the ecu saw a vehicle speed signal for the car to not be in limp mode and for vtec to work correctly. was this the same issue ? did you have to install any extra components for the vehicle to run properly with the manual j32a2 ecu ?

sorrry for all the questions.. i tried pm'ing you and didnt see that option..
 
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doing the manual j32a2 complete swap.. can i ask a few questions ?

do you have any check engine codes on ?
whats your redline ?
does your vtec engage ?
since ur car was originally a v6.. swapping in another v6.. is the mph and rpm gauge working properly ?

ive notcied on auto j32a swaps.. people had to install a square wave pulse generator " dakota digital " so the ecu saw a vehicle speed signal for the car to not be in limp mode and for vtec to work correctly. was this the same issue ? did you have to install any extra components for the vehicle to run properly with the manual j32a2 ecu ?

sorrry for all the questions.. i tried pm'ing you and didnt see that option..

Glad to hear another J32 swap happening :) the car runs very well with it. In my case it was pretty straight forward as I remove it from CL with manual tranny to nsx, so the engine/tranny just switched to different chassy. I reused all the wiring and only had to trix few sensors related to fuel tanks emissions for the engine light to not be on. RPM, MPH and vtec work, redline is about 6900rpm. It's easy for me to say now after all is working but if you are doing this ur self prepare for troubleshooting and for things not to work the first time around. It's easy to forget to connect wire or hose here and there when doing major job like that.
I wanted 6speed tranny so my hurdle was creating custom mount for the CL tranny and getting custom axles.. Moving from CL auto you will need to modify the harness or get one already made for you by "Velocitized" on this forum, he has all the parts you will need if you want to reuse nsx tranny and get J32 swap done the easiest way possible. He has diy kits available that makes things super easy to make this happen.
 
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Things been working with out any issues for too long ;) so back to the build. Working on j series bolt-ons. I got the ported runners, getting throttle body bored to 67mm and will make my self 1” throttle body spacer with Teflon gasket. It’s blue smoking mirrors but I heard people squize few extra HP with all of them together so might as well try it.

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