Anyone heard of KRP rotors (cross drilled and slotted) and if they are any good?
KRP Rotors?
- Thread starter ilya
- Start date
If you could borrow a vowel, they would be KRAP.
nuff said.
thank you
Actually, I don't know anything about them other than the name.
I once used some OMP rotors that were pretty good. They were cross-drilled and slotted. Quality was good because the holes were cast, not drilled. However, I don't think they're available for the NSX, AFAIK.
I once used some OMP rotors that were pretty good. They were cross-drilled and slotted. Quality was good because the holes were cast, not drilled. However, I don't think they're available for the NSX, AFAIK.
I was looking at those as well. I sent an email to a different retailer to get a price comparison. No answer yet, but I'll post if/when I get it.
They are Zinc plated if that means anything. Supposed to prevent rust. I just see a good deal on a set, but would rather not if they weren't quality.
[This message has been edited by ilya (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by ilya (edited 22 October 2001).]
Personally, from all that I have read, using solid rotors in most cases, or > 90% of the time is sufficent! The use of x-drilled rotors only becomes useful in applications where maximum rotor diameter and minimal unsprung weight is a neccessity [i.e sportbikes], however even here the rotors tend to crack and fatigue, as well as lead to a greater degree of pad wear depending on the design of the rotor and the pattern in which the holes were drilled, or preferentailly cast. And, in most applications larger x-drilled rotors are mostly an aesthtic upgrade/option. Even so on cars like Porsches and Ferraris where x-drilled rotors are used in an attempt to reduce unsprung weight, the comsmetic appeal is also part of the equation.
Slotted rotors have been known to be the an effective alternative, in increased pedal feel, to soild OEM rotors and are much less prone to cracking then x-drilled rotors, however, these to lead to some premature pad wear as everytime the slot passes the surface of the pad, it "shaves" a sliver of the pad off, so youve lost that extra material, w/out use.
One thing to always remember is that brakes do not actually stop the car, the tires do, if anything changing rotors, calipers, lines, fluid, prop valves, master cylinders, etc. only enhances pedal feel and consistency, and in this fashion reduces the degree of compliance w/in the brake system! An easy and inexpensive way to dramatically increase pedal feel and reduce compliance is to use good brake fluid, and stainless steel braided lines! Stopping power or reducing brake distances is most commonly bettered by using softer and more aggressive tires, all the brakes are responsible for doing is converting one type of energy into another, namely kinetic [motion] into heat[thermal], so; the better the rotors, pads, calipers, and fluid is at dispersing that heat and the more resiliant it is, the less fatigued the system will be under hard driving! However, the resulting effect is not better braking or shoter brake distance, it is more consistent brake times, and consistent braking distances.
Also, there arent many racing teams that use drilled rotors, most use slotted or solid, then again the F1, CART, Prototype LM900, GT2, etc., cars use exotic materials so unsprung weight is minimized. Nonetheless, if drilled rotors proved an advantage over, or in conjunction w/ over other rotor designs Im positive that x-drilled rotors would be used regularly!
One last thing to remeber is to make certain that the big brake kits that you are using or are considering using, as well as all the componentes therin, are DOT legal and approved, b/c if you get into an accident, God forbid, and the insurance company finds out, they are no longer legally obligated to cover the damages!
And, to answer your question, finally, no I haven't heard of that brand or rotor!
Sorry about the diatribe, just thought I'd share..
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
Slotted rotors have been known to be the an effective alternative, in increased pedal feel, to soild OEM rotors and are much less prone to cracking then x-drilled rotors, however, these to lead to some premature pad wear as everytime the slot passes the surface of the pad, it "shaves" a sliver of the pad off, so youve lost that extra material, w/out use.
One thing to always remember is that brakes do not actually stop the car, the tires do, if anything changing rotors, calipers, lines, fluid, prop valves, master cylinders, etc. only enhances pedal feel and consistency, and in this fashion reduces the degree of compliance w/in the brake system! An easy and inexpensive way to dramatically increase pedal feel and reduce compliance is to use good brake fluid, and stainless steel braided lines! Stopping power or reducing brake distances is most commonly bettered by using softer and more aggressive tires, all the brakes are responsible for doing is converting one type of energy into another, namely kinetic [motion] into heat[thermal], so; the better the rotors, pads, calipers, and fluid is at dispersing that heat and the more resiliant it is, the less fatigued the system will be under hard driving! However, the resulting effect is not better braking or shoter brake distance, it is more consistent brake times, and consistent braking distances.
Also, there arent many racing teams that use drilled rotors, most use slotted or solid, then again the F1, CART, Prototype LM900, GT2, etc., cars use exotic materials so unsprung weight is minimized. Nonetheless, if drilled rotors proved an advantage over, or in conjunction w/ over other rotor designs Im positive that x-drilled rotors would be used regularly!
One last thing to remeber is to make certain that the big brake kits that you are using or are considering using, as well as all the componentes therin, are DOT legal and approved, b/c if you get into an accident, God forbid, and the insurance company finds out, they are no longer legally obligated to cover the damages!
And, to answer your question, finally, no I haven't heard of that brand or rotor!
Sorry about the diatribe, just thought I'd share..
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
I gather you mean not drilled or slotted. Solid generally refers to non-vented. Vented rotors are much better cooling than solid, and all NSX rotors are vented.
The shaving effect should not occur much if at all if the slots and wholes are properly radiused.
Also, I agree with much of what you say, including the tires being what stops the car. On a single stop from moderate speeds and typical tires, you can probably lock them up, hence the brakes are not the weak point. However, from very high speeds and after numerous stops, heat buildup becomes the limit. Mind you, I'm not at all sure the holes or slots will help significantly on that. Another benefit of "better" brakes is more control at the threshold, but again I'm not convinced the holes and slots are a benefit.
[This message has been edited by sjs (edited 22 October 2001).]
Yes, I did mean to include ventillated brake rotors, as non-ventillated are not as often used on higher end, "sports" cars. About the distribution of holes and slotting, not all rotors are carfully machined, and or desgined, so that's why I mentioned the possibility of added wear on the pad. Again, part of the reason why I went on and on like I did, was to convey my opinion that slotting nor drilling is that much more effective, at the street/mild track use level, to warrant the added expense and possible risk of defect.
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
[This message has been edited by bb6 (edited 22 October 2001).]
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Anyone driving moderately seriously at all but the slowest tracks will exceed the capabilities of the stock brake system one way or another. So at the track, the brakes are much more a weak point than tires. If you go to slicks as you suggested, you will only work the brakes that much harder and hotter.
Heat is the cause of all the failures we are talking about (cooking your pads, warping rotors, boiling fluid). Anything you can do to reduce the operating temp of the brakes will help.
One NSX owner has measured a few dozen degrees difference running drilled vs. stock rotors. I do not know how scientific his method was, but the theory makes sense, as does the theory that, all things being equal, more massive rotors are able to dissipate more heat and thicker pads help insulate the caliper/fluid.
Quality drilled rotors are not really drilled, they are cast with the holes in the rotor. This makes them less vulnerable to premature failure or pad wear.
I'm not saying that x-drilled rotors are the answer or even that they are "better," just that heat is the enemy and anything that can be done to reduce it is your friend.
Heat is the cause of all the failures we are talking about (cooking your pads, warping rotors, boiling fluid). Anything you can do to reduce the operating temp of the brakes will help.
One NSX owner has measured a few dozen degrees difference running drilled vs. stock rotors. I do not know how scientific his method was, but the theory makes sense, as does the theory that, all things being equal, more massive rotors are able to dissipate more heat and thicker pads help insulate the caliper/fluid.
Quality drilled rotors are not really drilled, they are cast with the holes in the rotor. This makes them less vulnerable to premature failure or pad wear.
I'm not saying that x-drilled rotors are the answer or even that they are "better," just that heat is the enemy and anything that can be done to reduce it is your friend.
What companies make and sell a quality cross drilled, cast (not drilled) rotor for factory NSX calipers?
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