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LED Conversion with Hyperflash and Brake Lamp Failure Solution

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This will eventually be a DYI Wiki, but at the moment there are difficulties in editing the Wiki.

This PDF File outlines plug-n-play solutions to two common problems when replacing incandescent bulbs on the NSX with LED bulbs, Hyperflashing and Brake Lamp Failure warning. For this project it is helpful to have either a service manual or refer to Wiki files on NSXPrime as required. You will also need to have basic electrical knowledge and soldering skills.
 

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Mug

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This is awesome. I'll be doing this next week when I swap my bulbs out with VLED Tritons. Thank you.
 
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You are welcome. I'm very pleased withe the LEDs in the OEM lenses. Much brighter and vivid. Also the LEDs I used on the brake lights have strong contrast when applying the brakes. That with the existing top LED will grab tail gaters and texters attention.
 
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If the question is for me, source and part numbers are in the right up
 
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This will eventually be a DYI Wiki, but at the moment there are difficulties in editing the Wiki.

This PDF File outlines plug-n-play solutions to two common problems when replacing incandescent bulbs on the NSX with LED bulbs, Hyperflashing and Brake Lamp Failure warning. For this project it is helpful to have either a service manual or refer to Wiki files on NSXPrime as required. You will also need to have basic electrical knowledge and soldering skills.

McRider that is a beautiful writeup thank you very much.
 
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Thanks
 
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Ok.. I got my FR-3501 and it looks a little different than the one in the write up.

I have two of those "shunting resistors" instead of one...

flasher.jpg


By the look on the backside of the board, the shunting resistors are in series (I am sorry if I get the term incorrect) I can just replace either one and I should GTG? :)

Thanks!

Kenny
 
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If they are in fact in series then you can replace either one. If they are in parallel then you need to replace both, using a resistor of double the value that you would if it were the only resistor.
 
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Appears the board has a few other revisions as well. I recommend checking to see if the IC chip is the same number as that is what controls things. If it is the detection voltage should be the same.
 
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Thank you mcrider for your writeup. I just finished switching my car over to LED bulbs and HID headlights. I consulted your writeup a bunch of times, and the process was generally a pleasure (never delightful to crawl around in the footwell). Your guide helped tremendously and it's great to have no hyperflash or brake-lamp-failure light.

For those of you that haven't switched to LEDs but are considering it, I say go as bright as possible. I used these bulbs for brake lights; these for turn signals, these for reverse lights, these for front running lights, these for interior lights. The HIDs are 9006-bulb, 55W, 4500K, w/ the relay harness. I'm sure the headlights will be good (haven't driven yet). I expected the brake/turn lights to be brighter than OEM but they are not; also not much dimmer really, if at all. I like how they turn on instantly rather than fade in like the OEM incandescent bulbs. I don't like how the running lights don't match the headlights, but I'm sure if I poke around I can find 4500K bulbs (not apparently at DDM). Since these were cheap, I figured I would give them a shot to see what they were like since I was already ordering the HID setup.

Best,
jason
 
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Jason, glad it came in useful. The Cool Whites from Superbriteled will match your HID headlights. That is what I'm running. Also, my tail light LED are brighter than the OEM incandescent The downside of the brightness is you get less contrast when the brake is applied. That said my brake contrast is not bad at all.
 
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The Cool Whites from Superbriteled will match your HID headlights.

I'm surprised the cool white are as warm as 4500K. I would have gone for warm white. I guess those are closer to 3000K. I may experiment a bit, thanks.

Also, my tail light LED are brighter than the OEM incandescent The downside of the brightness is you get less contrast when the brake is applied.

You mean that the running-light portion of the brake bulb is brighter? So that leads to less contrast with the brake-applied portion? I don't really need brighter running lights, just hoped for brighter braking lights and turn signals. Sounds like your bulbs are worth the increase in cost over what DDM sells though.
 
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I'm surprised the cool white are as warm as 4500K. I would have gone for warm white. I guess those are closer to 3000K. I may experiment a bit, thanks.



You mean that the running-light portion of the brake bulb is brighter? So that leads to less contrast with the brake-applied portion? I don't really need brighter running lights, just hoped for brighter braking lights and turn signals. Sounds like your bulbs are worth the increase in cost over what DDM sells though.

My HIDs are from DDM as well. They mentioned that if you want to go to 55W (I did) you need to order color temp a level higher than you desired.

I went with 8000K (edit: I checked my receipt) 55w and the kit matches my running lights well. (~6000k)

I will tackle this next weekend. I will see if the LED bulbs I sourced are brighter or not and take some side by sides.
 
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Correction. I checked my order and they were WLED-NW5-CBT Natural White from Superbright. They match my HID well enough for me.
 
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FYI I purchased these for the tails/brakes (2 pair)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJEGQQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and ordered the wrong front and back turn signal bulbs!!

These are definitely brighter than the regular bulbs.

I took some side by sides but you can't tell the difference as I took them in the day time. The LEDs are definitely much brighter to naked eyes, even in daytime.

I also love the instant on of the LED. Very cool!

I will have to postpone installing the modded flasher module until the correct bulbs show up.
 
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a quick update:

The correct turn signal bulbs finally came in. I was able to install them today (F&R) and I also installed the modified flasher module.

It resolved the hyperflash problem!! :) I am now working on the brake lamp warning bypass.

- - - Updated - - -

update 2: all set!

the bypass turned off the brake lamp warning light!

Thank you mcrider!!!!
 
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Glad it worked out. Very happy with my set up.
 
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update 3: spoke too soon. LOL!
Once I finished the bypass I took the car out. I immediately noticed it's hyperflashing when I use the turn signal (I tested using the hazard light).

So.

using the turn signal (1 side) = hyperflash
using the hazard signals (both side) = normal flash

Somehow I also burnt out the brake lamp fuse (20A, in the front fusebox) even though I replaced all bulbs in the rear to LED. I replaced it with another 20A and so far so good.

Any suggestions on how to fix the hyperflash when using the turn signal would be so appreciate it! :) Thank you!

I also realized the bodyshop forgot to plug the rear wing brake light when they did the respray. :( I will be working on that tomorrow.
 
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My guess is your shunt resistor is not large enough. What is the amp rating of your LED bulbs. There could also be something to do with your flasher. If I recall it was different (2 shunts) versus what I found in mine. Take a close look at the IC chip and see if it has the same number on it as in my write up. Could be a different trigger voltage.
 
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Thanks mcrider! I will take the module this week and examine it. I will take pics of the top and the bottom side of the board.

Could the LED module amp ratings varies that much that I would need a different resistor?

Thank you.
 
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Yes they can. If you are you using the same Superbright LED bulbs I've listed in the write up then the resistor size should be fine unless they have changed the specs on the lamps. I'd take a hard look at the flasher and see if it is the same IC.
 
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I am not using the same LED bulbs. I contacted my seller and they have no clue when I asked about the amp ratings. :( All I have is they are 27 5050 SMDs on each bulbs and per their site, Each bulb is "2W"

I opened up the original ones I took out of my car and it seems to be the same as the one I purchased/modded.

flasher-1.jpg


Note I don't have that IC as in your picture. I also took a picture of it of the back...

flasher-2.jpg


By looking at the layout I assume the two "shunting resistors" are in series. Would it be an issue b/c I only replaced one of the shunt (picture above, lower left, toward the contacts) with the 0.12 Ohm, 1 watt resistor? Should I remove the other shunt and rewire the resistor mirroring yours?

Is it possible to disable the hyperflash completely?

Thank you for all your help with this. I am totally a newbie when it comes to electronic circuitry.
 
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