Melted sealant from the CRK/CYL behind TB Covers?

[NSXCessive]

Been working on my '91 Rebuild project and finally got around to dropping the motor out of the NSX. Started inspecting it and noticed this melted black goo down the side of the engine behind the A/C compressor. Last time the TB service was done I remember asking the pros and told not to worry about it it was normal.

So already aware of the leak from the CRK/CYL sensor which is perfectly normal on all NSX's but looks like its making a nice mess all over the inside of the TB covers. Inspected and nothing on the Cam Gears, tensioner, or belt yet but the last thing your want is this goo to wind up somewhere it shouldn't be.

I'm a little worried that if I don't take action during this service it could drip on the cam gears, belt, or tensioner and cause havoic in the future. Does anyone have a solution or tried to clean the mess or try to stop it from leaking, short of replacing the CRK/CYL sensor which is fully operational?

Took the covers off to do the TB service and found this mess:

 

[pgilliam1]

It is a mess, but I've never heard of it causing a problem (other than spots on the garage floor). Looks to me like you should replace the hoses on the oil cooler. Are they original equipment?

 

[stevieray122854]

Not to worry, every C32 engine (NSX/Legend) does that. That is the potting that surrounds the electrical components of the crank angle sensor, it juts gets hot and bleeds. You'll know it when the CAS starts to go bad, car won't run for shit---

 

[NSXCessive]

It is a mess, but I've never heard of it causing a problem (other than spots on the garage floor). Looks to me like you should replace the hoses on the oil cooler. Are they original equipment?

Yes I think I had a couple drops make it to the ground under the A/C compressor. Yes all 23 coolant & oil cooler lines will be replaced, also replacing the crank pulley, as well as many other things on my project build. Eventually when I have a chance I will make a build thread all the hoses are original except for the 2 main ones I blew a years ago. I will tell you its so much easier to change them when that car is all apart :wink:

Not to worry, every C32 engine (NSX/Legend) does that. That is the potting that surrounds the electrical components of the crank angle sensor, it juts gets hot and bleeds. You'll know it when the CAS starts to go bad, car won't run for shit---

Yes I figured it was pretty normal say it the last time the TB maintenance was completed. I wasn't sure if anyone figured out a way to make it stop. Engine was running perfectly before removing from the car, no crank angle sensor problems.

 

[nigel]

C'mon, you've been around here long enough to know this is a common problem that really isn't a problem.
Replace the original parts while you have it apart and carry on.

Cheers
nigel

 

[ftuhy]

I saw this when I changed the timing belt on a '91 5 years ago. The engine is still running quite well, same sensor, drool marks and all.

Perhaps they changed to a new potting compound on the sensor by '96, because at 47kmi/11 yrs old, there still was no drooling on my '96.

As others have indicated, for this non-event, "don't worry, be happy".:biggrin:

 

[butter78]

Anyone experience this on an 02+ NA2
Good information though..I usually freak out when I see leaks like that. Good luck on the build

 

[NSXCessive]

C'mon, you've been around here long enough to know this is a common problem that really isn't a problem.
Replace the original parts while you have it apart and carry on.

Cheers
nigel

I hear you Nigel wasn't sure if there was a way to make it stop leaking, I guess they all do it... and if it isn't now it will in the future. I'm going to clean it up and carry on :smile:

I saw this when I changed the timing belt on a '91 5 years ago. The engine is still running quite well, same sensor, drool marks and all.

Perhaps they changed to a new potting compound on the sensor by '96, because at 47kmi/11 yrs old, there still was no drooling on my '96.

As others have indicated, for this non-event, "don't worry, be happy".:biggrin:

Thanks not worried just didn't want it to wind up somewhere where it should not be like the tb or tensioner would be a stupid way to kill the motor if the tb slipped. But from what I'm seeing here no need for concen.

Anyone experience this on an 02+ NA2
Good information though..I usually freak out when I see leaks like that. Good luck on the build

From what I've been reading it might not leak on the newer cars, if they changed the potting material. Had the tb done 2 yrs ago on my '00 and there was no signs of leaking in there it had about 18k on it at the time. Thanks build has been keeping me very busy, but I will post something in the build section soon.

 

[tbnsxt]

They all do this. No need to worry.

 

[OLDMNSX]

The leaking is DONE. It wont leak any more. Mine looked like that too. I cleaned it up with brake parts cleaner and a plastic scrapper. Engine is now clean. The potting material had too low of a melting temperature.
Brad

 

[clembeauch]

Hi Guys; Im doing my T Belt & water pump & plan to do cam seals as my engine is running perfect.. It has 201000 miles on it and I too have noticed the dark black stain, running down the frt bank from the crk/cam sensor.. I am also replacing the crank seal & oil pan gasket as its 20 plus yrs old & must be harder than Kriptonite..My oil press. is good but been thinking of inspecting the oil pump any one have any thoughts??? Regards Clem:smile:

 

[OLDMNSX]

My oil press. is good but been thinking of inspecting the oil pump any one have any thoughts??? Regards Clem:smile:

The best thing I have done for piece of mind dealing with OIL PRESSURE is to install the Science of Speed remote oil pressure sending unit. WOW what a difference in oil pressure indication. Very constant and consistant. Thanks to Chris and the guys at SOS.
Brad

http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/oil_press_sensor/

 

[BATMANs]

I had this "non-problem" that I found when rebuilding the engine.

Hopefully the ceramic and thermal dissipation coatings will do the trick.