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MotorMouth93's 1994 Berlina Black NSX Thread

Plastic clips?

I haven't been able to get the VVIS screws out of my mind so I pulled the intake manifold to clean and check everything. Of course, the screws hadn't moved at all, so I just applied some penetrating thread locker as a precaution. From here on out I'll just be checking the screws with a borescope during oil changes.

I hadn't really messed with this part of the engine before, so the sheer number of vacuum and coolant lines running to things was very surprising. I had forgotten just how many vacuum lines cars from the early 90s had, and this throttle body is just ridiculous.

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Also pretty dirty, but should clean up just fine.

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Intake manifold removed and intake ports taped up. There was a film of oil in the bottom of the V from a past VCG leak.

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Kinda neat how the bottom part of the intake manifold is magnesium.

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Intake manifold cleaned, all gaskets/O-rings replaced, and being reassembled.

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Right before the manifold went back on. Tape removed, gasket surfaces cleaned, new gaskets in place.

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Also, while my Ridies seat covers were being installed by a local upholsterer, I decided to pull all of the panels covering the rear bulkhead and clean them up. Some of them had been removed and reinstalled before I got the car so they were a bit loose and squeaked a bit. I added some felt around the edges to help prevent squeaks and replaced all of the plastic clips. Also, one side of the elastic supporting the pocket on the passenger side had come undone as it's just stapled to the particle board backing of the panel.

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I repaired the broken elastic by stitching a loop on each end and using wire to hold the ends together. This should hold much better than the staples.

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Everything cleaned and ready for reinstallation.

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And back in the car.

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I also resoldered the main relay and applied a conformal coating since I had easy access to it with the rear panels off.

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I did a leakdown test out of curiosity/precaution and I'm super happy with the results. Very consistent ~1psi drop across all cylinders with a 50psi input pressure.

Order is
3 6
2 5
1 4

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My upholsterer had some things come up so I don't have my seats back, but they should be done within a week or so.

I am truly impressed as I am reading through your thread for the first time. I am new to the nsx community and am really inspired by all the work you have done on your car :). I have tried ordering a few different plastic clips for these rear interior pieces as several of mine are missing and broken but can’t find the right part number or place to order from. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ahmad
 
Massive update: the car is now running and driving

Excuse the crappy clip, I was mostly glued to the AFR reading but its all I've got for now. The tune is pretty crude, I was just changing chunks of the map to get in the 11 - 15 AFR range to get as much of the map "safe" as possible before I start fine tuning. The car is quite drivable though, the throttle linkage changes are great, its a bit touchier than stock (partially due to the lightweight flywheel) but still quite usable, my buddy came over to help with the tuning, he drove while I played with the laptop, and he didn't really have any issues getting used to it.


I made the mistake of trying to get too complicated at first with my code so I drastically simplified things and it all started working. Right now I'm running pure alpha N (meaning I'm using throttle angle as the load source) and once that's running well I'll add the map switching back in.

But it drives and I'm so damn happy about it. My IACV compensation even works - the AC kicks on and off perfectly at idle. I ended up raising the base idle from the factory specified 600rpm up to about 1000rpm though, I just can't get enough air flow through the stock IACV for good cold starts so it is what it is. I also removed the cats for tuning so I don't burn them up and holy crap the downshifts are ROWDY. I need to get some better video soon.

The cool thing about this is that most of the OEM dialed in stuff that really makes a car drivable works with little to no changes. Throttle tip in timing, tip in fueling, idle control, warmup enrichment, etc is all working as expected.

A couple big takeaways from this...

- I need more resolution at low throttle openings. Between the 2% and 4% columns I was seeing VE values jumping by more than 3x, hard to tune! So I'm reworking the tables to be in increments of 1% very low down.

- I need a 3D table for IACV compensation. I simplified it to a 2D table and while it "works" its not very good and causes some strange/annoying behavior.

- My python script-generated fuel basemap (derived from the factory failsafe TPS to load mappings combined with the factory fuel tables) was much closer than I expected it to be. A lot of the table was in the 11:1 - 15:1 AFR range which is great, I can just fine tune from there.

- Huge thanks to @RYU for helping out with the alpha N timing maps.
 
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I can't say enough about how amazing this is. IYKYK

Massive update: the car is now running and driving

Excuse the crappy clip, I was mostly glued to the AFR reading but its all I've got for now. The tune is pretty crude, I was just changing chunks of the map to get in the 11 - 15 AFR range to get as much of the map "safe" as possible before I start fine tuning. The car is quite drivable though, the throttle linkage changes are great, its a bit touchier than stock (partially due to the lightweight flywheel) but still quite usable, my buddy came over to help with the tuning, he drove while I played with the laptop, and he didn't really have any issues getting used to it.


I made the mistake of trying to get too complicated at first with my code so I drastically simplified things and it all started working. Right now I'm running pure alpha N (meaning I'm using throttle angle as the load source) and once that's running well I'll add the map switching back in.

But it drives and I'm so damn happy about it. My IACV compensation even works - the AC kicks on and off perfectly at idle. I ended up raising the base idle from the factory specified 600rpm up to about 1000rpm though, I just can't get enough air flow through the stock IACV for good cold starts so it is what it is. I also removed the cats for tuning so I don't burn them up and holy crap the downshifts are ROWDY. I need to get some better video soon.

The cool thing about this is that most of the OEM dialed in stuff that really makes a car drivable works with little to no changes. Throttle tip in timing, tip in fueling, idle control, warmup enrichment, etc is all working as expected.

A couple big takeaways from this...

- I need more resolution at low throttle openings. Between the 2% and 4% columns I was seeing VE values jumping by more than 3x, hard to tune! So I'm reworking the tables to be in increments of 1% very low down.

- I need a 3D table for IACV compensation. I simplified it to a 2D table and while it "works" its not very good and causes some strange/annoying behavior.

- My python script-generated fuel basemap (derived from the factory failsafe TPS to load mappings combined with the factory fuel tables) was much closer than I expected it to be. A lot of the table was in the 11:1 - 15:1 AFR range which is great, I can just fine tune from there.

- Huge thanks to @RYU for helping out with the alpha N timing maps.
 
A 3D IACV compensation table would have actual TPS (input) along the x-axis, IACV duty cycle (input) along the y-axis, then the z-axis (output) would be added to the actual TPS to create the effective TPS used to generate the load value for the timing and fuel tables, since as the throttle is opened the IACV contribution quickly becomes negligible. I might play with the 2d table some more (just IACV vs TPS adder) and see if I can get it to a point I'm happy with, we'll see.

I'm thinking I'm going to try to move away from a map switching tune as quickly as possible. My original plan was to switch between a MAP-based tune for low load cruising and an alpha-N based tune where the MAP sensor is close to atmosphere, but now that I've found I can more or less completely take over the load calculation routines without really any tangible drawbacks I might as well use a blended load calculation where both MAP and alpha-N are blended within the same tables. Megasquirt has an "ITB Load" mode and what I want to do is copy that verbatim, the calculations are simple enough and I can leverage a lot of the existing code to do them for me, I just need to do a bit more logging in pure alpha N in order to get the initial ITB load configuration tables set up. This will work a lot better with the existing ECU codebase and be easier to tune, as well as require a lot less custom code.

The issue with map switching is that it results in 2 separate load scales, 1 for manifold pressure and 1 for throttle load, and while this is "okay" it can lead to some potentially weird results with some compensations that take load into account, as 90% MAP load might be equivalent to 15% TPS load and the compensation would return wildly different results for 2 scenarios that ultimately need the same thing. ITB load solves that by unifying the load scale. It also frees up a lot of ROM space (EGR fuel and ignition tables) that I could repurpose for other things like new code or a target AFR table to allow for true VE tuning.
 
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I'm no ECU expert by any means, but one of these days maybe i'll show you how the F-Con does it's compensation tables. I've been told by others that know, it's rather an intuitive system. I do not know any better. It's really the only ECU i've ever really gotten into. I find it pretty easy to use and logical. The nomenclature can be a challenge though. Translations from Japanese to English menus really does a number on me sometimes lol
 
Wow. This is absolutely amazing to see. I'd hesitate to think I could even attempt to replicate something like this, but where would I even start? I know very little about ECU tuning, but do have an extra OEM ECU sitting around :)
 
If you aren't trying to reprogram the ECU to do something it wasn't intended to do, it's easier than you'd think. Basically just install a wideband O2 sensor and chip the ECU, if your car has any mods then there's a bit of power to be gained just by richening up the fuel tables a bit, and there's some nice drivability improvements to be had by changing the open/closed loop parameters so the car transitions from stoichiometric closed loop to richer open loop more easily. I've made all the datalogging stuff available so you just have to download it.
 
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To make the switch to a blended load tune, I needed to drive and log more. Specifically, I need logs of manifold pressure, TPS, and engine RPM. I have alpha N working pretty well so I spent some time driving and logging and making adjustments.

The blended load strategy I plan on implementing is basically a copy of the Megasquirt ITB mode. Details about how that works can be found here in this excellent writeup: https://www.77e21.com/mstuning_itbmode.htm

Basically, it works by using manifold pressure as load when below 90% of barometric pressure, then switches to TPS when above that. ITB engines have a characteristic where the RPM vs TPS plot for the point at which the engine loses vacuum is fairly consistent and linear, so in order to combine these two load indicators we need to find this curve. So I drove around and logged, imported the logs into Excel, then filtered out all values except for those where manifold pressure is between 0.89 and 0.91 BAR as per the recommended method on the Megasquirt forums. That gave me this, its pretty damn cool seeing reality mimic theory so closely, I was half expecting to see a giant mess then be back to square one.

rpmtps.PNG

I had a decent amount of log data so I decided to filter out everything but the values where MAP=0.9bar, which gave me this, there's less data points but its a very clean and defined curve.

rpmtps90.PNG

I think this should be a perfect basis on which to start implementing a blended load scheme. Something to note is that the VTEC curve will likely be different, so I'll have to take that into account and define a separate TPS vs RPM curves for when VTEC is active.

To get this data, I had to get the car running, and the easiest way to do that with ITBs is just use pure alpha N (throttle position) as the load value. The ECU has a failsafe alpha N mode and it has tables that map throttle position into the actual MAP-based load scale so I decided to use this as the basis for creating a base fuel map. I wrote a simple python script that created an alpha N fuel table by selecting and interpolating the load columns that the factory failsafe mode mapped into, and it was actually enough for the car to start and idle well enough for me to start making changes. This basemap looked like this.

basemap.png

From there, I played around with the zero load fueling a bit to get it to mostly idle well then pretty much just hit record on the logger and mashed the gas and started driving. A lot of it was running around 9-10:1 AFR, and some of it was 16-17:1 or even worse, so I lurched around the neighborhood with a friend driving while I used the laptop and made adjustments. After 30 minutes or so we had the car to the point where you could almost drive it.

Street tuning is annoying since its difficult or impossible to hold load steady like you can on a dyno, so rather than try to tune all the cells by hand, I wrote another python script which correlates AFR and fuel table cells and spits out a new fuel table based on target AFRs. The output of the most recent run of this script is here, I cut off the fuel map part since it's just a bunch of numbers but this shows the AFR map construction as well as the recommended fueling adjustments for each cell. This particular run I was pushing the car a bit higher in the throttle range so it starts to lean out a bit over 60% load but I was watching the AFR the whole time so it didn't happen often.

afrtool.jpg

After 2 or 3 drive/analyze/smooth cycles that base fuel map looks like this. It's pretty messy, some areas of the map have been touched in my logging and others not yet, but the average AFRs are moving towards where they need to be.

newfuelmap.PNG


What I've found works pretty well is to take the changes suggested by the scripts, apply them, then extrapolate nearby (but unchanged) values up to kind of fit with the overall trends suggested by the script. The results can be a bit jagged since some areas have low sample counts and therefore not particularly great data (for fine tuning I'll filter out low sample count cells but at this stage I need to rough the maps in as quick as possible).

I'm not too concerned about getting Alpha N really dialed in since blended load is the end goal, but this is more than enough for the purposes of figuring out the TPS and MAP data needed and also good for creating a base map for blended load tuning. You can see that the very low load portion of the map is quite weird looking - alpha N has some annoying quirks at low load and especially right off idle which I'm hoping to negate entirely with blended load.

After driving on it a lot more I might revisit my throttle linkage again. It still has a bit more pedal effort than I'd like, it's not bad but right off idle just takes more effort than I want to put in. That's a task for after the tune is in a better spot though.

Oh and here's a longer driving video, I recommend starting at 50 seconds. (apologies for the kind of bad audio)

 
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I made the switch to blended load and its working out amazingly well, strangely enough.

Like I said before, I pretty much just ripped off Megasquirt ITB mode since I found nothing but people raving about how well it works and how easy it is to tune.

This is the table I programmed into the ECU to control the switching between MAP and TPS based load, if it looks familiar it should, since it comes from the scatterplots I posted before. The ECU only switches to TPS load when TPS is greater than the thresholds in this table AND manifold pressure is greater than 90% of barometric pressure, so I took the low points from the curve to ensure that the TPS threshold is met when MAP hits that threshold. From what I've seen of my tuning so far, this table is configured pretty much perfect, if you watch the calculated load value in my logs it is very smooth - almost like you'd see in a purely MAP-based system.

To set up my base fuel and timing maps for blended load, I wrote a python script to calculate "ITB load" then go backwards and figure out the associated TPS value based on these parameters then go grab the correct value from my crude alpha N tables and spit out a corresponding blended table. That worked pretty well but had nothing in the MAP sections, so I tweaked the script a bit to calculate the MAP in each blended cell as well then search through my logs for data samples with a similar MAP, RPM, and half decent AFR value, compute the average TPS used to get those values, then go look that up in the alpha N table. The resulting map was a lot better than you'd think but at first start the MAP sections were pretty lean so I tweaked my log search parameters to make it richer which resulted in a base map that would actually run well enough to drive on the street and start the real tuning.

Python scripting has turned out to be invaluable throughout this process.


tpssp.PNG

The second table needed is here, this table divides the maps between MAP-based and TPS-based load. I've marked it up a bit to make it easier to understand, the 90% baro and 20% baro are configurable thresholds that adapt to current barometric pressure and the TPS thresholds are from the table above. I found that 20% (0.2 BAR at sea level) was a good lower bound since my engine will never pull more vacuum than that while running (it will actually go down to about 0.13bar with the throttles fully closed at high RPM but the engine is in decel fuel cut at that point so there's no reason to devote any tunable space to it) You can see that I devoted a lot of of the table to MAP tuning at lower RPM, I did this to have good resolution off idle and while cruising, a lot of what I came across online told me I'd have almost no vacuum to play with but I've found that to be false, just driving the car around town it stays mostly in the MAP-based areas then transitions to TPS-based when you get on the throttle.

itb_load.jpg

Here is my current non-VTEC fuel map, shockingly "normal" looking for an ITB setup. The red line is roughly where it changes between MAP and TPS load. It's still pretty crude in places but for the most part I can drive the car around normally now. I just hook up a laptop and log drives, then make corrections based on that and it gets a bit better each time. The throttle is a bit touchy but honestly its very daily drivable for an ITB engine with lightweight flywheel that revs crazy fast and sounds (and smells :mad:) like a race car. The great thing about this tuning scheme is that at low RPM where very small changes in throttle result in huge changes in airflow are now managed by the MAP sensor which gives me a huge amount of resolution to tune this space. Your typical alpha N tune will give you maybe 2-4 load columns for this finicky 0-5% TPS range off idle, I now have 12 to play with, then at higher RPM and load values where TPS resolution is needed I have that too. It's really a brilliant algorithm and I'm glad the guys at Megasquirt came up with it. Just looking at my logs, you'd never know its switching load sources constantly, its completely seamless and smooth.


fuel_map.jpg

That's not to say there aren't still some sore spots to work out. I'm having trouble getting enough fuel right off idle, it doesn't die but it does go quite lean if you just feather the throttle to slowly start so I need to add a lot more fuel around 50% load in the bottom RPM rows, but the problem is if I do this then the car doesn't cold start anymore since those are the same areas of the table that the car wants to fast idle in, even with warmup enrichment turned off I'm seeing like 9:1 AFR at cold idle and have to hold the throttle down to make it start, however, if I pull fuel out to get a more appropriate fast idle ratio and start up perfectly cold then it goes way at first tip in off idle. This isn't an issue of not enough accel enrichment, its an issue of steady state fueling not being right in those sections of the map. I have a few theories I need to test as to why this is occurring, I suspect that most of the issue is that the idle valve is opening far enough that it can supply more air than the engine can consume through the small 5mm vacuum lines that connect to each intake port, causing the pressure in the vacuum manifold to higher than it should and artificially raising the load value. Which, if this is the case, would be ironic since I spent a lot of time widening idle air passages as much as possible since I thought I wasn't getting enough idle air at first.

Then there's the fine tuning of accel enrichment to really nail down the drivability. I have it cranked up pretty high right now just to keep the lean spikes down but its too much, the factory AE is an extremely intricate and flexible setup with 3 different TPS filters to choose from and 6 different enrichment tables with configurable RPM thresholds so I'm kind of looking forward to it and also scared of trying to dial it in.

The biggest remaining task is to enable VTEC again and get that dialed in, I'm just driving around on the low cam right now and while its nice I really want to hear the VTEC kick in with the open throttles before I put filters on. And I removed my cats a few weeks ago for tuning so I wouldn't foul them during the initial street tuning and I really don't care for the catless exhaust sound either, I'm not sure whether I'll go with a set of new 50 state EPA cats or just put the stock ones back on. Since the VTEC cam is different, it will have a different TPS vs RPM vacuum profile which I need to log and plot in alpha N then use that data to set up blended load. I wrote my load calculation code to have 2 separate sets of tables for the low cam and high cam so its just a matter of filling out those currently blank tables and reenabling VTEC and getting the fuel dialed in.

Overall I'm quite happy with how things are going so far and am looking forward to see how this will translate over to a 3.2 built motor. Oh and my engine block is on its way back again as of today, this time with an extra 0.001" piston to wall clearance for reasons I'll go into later. :cool:
 
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Edit: Adding TLDR since this ended up obscenely long

- Idle issues mostly fixed
- Start issues mostly
- AC fixed
- Off idle lean condition fixed
- Cold starts are still too rich, but it does start right up every time
- Cruise AFRs are very consistent
- WOT needs more logging but is mostly okay
- Still no VTAK

I fixed the hot start and AC problems, and the solution was really simple and kind of funny.

The idle control on these cars is more complex than you'd think, its a convoluted combination of IACV pulsewidth manipulation, ignition timing control, and fuel table switching and I had forgotten about the fuel table switching portion. Under certain conditions the car uses the open loop power enrichment fuel table, and for some reason it decided to use that for hot starts, whenever I tried to turn the AC on, and occasionally at seemingly random intervals. Since I have O2 feedback disabled and disabled power enrichment I hadn't really messed with that fuel table so it mostly just held garbage. So it would switch to the garbage tables then die for obvious reasons. Occasionally it would just idle really rich instead of at 14.5 like I have my tables set up for and looking at my old logs, it was because it was going into open loop idle there as well. Copy/pasting my tuned fuel table into the open loop table fixed these issues 100%.

I'm also working on some code tricks to manipulate the factory idle control algorithm into allowing a good amount of base idle air flow while still using timing to pull idle down to 800-900 when hot. FSM states idle should be set at 600rpm with the IACV unplugged, and I have mine set at about 1100, but the car will happily hot idle at 900 with idle timing control now.

Cold starts are still too rich, and I suspect this is because the fittings connecting my vacuum manifold to each intake runner are too small. They have maybe ~5mm ID so the amount of air the engine can suck through them is limited. It runs too rich when cold because the IACV can flow more air than the engine can consume at idle which artificially raises the measured manifold pressure, which raises calculated load, which results in too rich AFR. I made a restrictor to try to combat this issue and it sort of helped but I might need to restrict flow even further to make it work in its current configuration, I might be able to combat this issue in software for now but when I switch to the built motor I'm going to increase the size of the vacuum fittings to fix it properly, and maybe drill additional ports into the runners to make the idle air system completely separate from where I read manifold pressure.

Something to note is that the car will now happily free rev up and down slowly in neutral even with the lightweight flywheel. Before I'd really started tuning the low load areas of the fuel table with my tuning scripts it would have weird oscillations in RPM - I suspect due to the poorly tuned fuel tables causing wild variations in AFR and therefore torque causing RPM to wildly oscillate without touching the throttle.

As far as drivability goes, the leanness off idle is kind of working itself out as I log and tune more, I think it was just an issue in that section of the fuel table. I also tweaked the decel fuel cut parameters to kick in less often and less aggressively which has made the on/off throttle transitions much smoother as well. AFR control is pretty tight, there's a few places that need more fine tuning but its overall quite good. There was also an issue with the way I was injecting my own calculated "ITB load" value that would result in the original MAP-based load value being used occasionally and the engine would kind of "hiccup" a bit and the load would spike in my logs. This was due to a CEL-related function in the ECU that checks and clears error flags if the associated problem is no longer present, since the Alpha N flag is only present when there's a MAP error, that routine clears the AN flag and reverts to standard load calculations since there is no MAP fault. The way I handled this originally was to call that CEL function then immediately set the AN flag again since it just got cleared, however this left a small time delta between the time that function cleared the AN flag and the time my code could reset it, and if a crank signal interrupt came in during that time, the next load calculation would use the MAP sensor instead of the AN load value. The CEL function is baked into the CPU and can't be modified, but I was able to do some fancy things in my own code to keep all CEL functionality intact as well as remove that critical section.

Here's some log plots showing the current state of things. (yellow=AFR, dotted yellow=timing advance, pink=RPM, light blue=calculated load, red=throttle, green=manifold pressure) There's some spikes in the manifold pressure reading due to the way my logging code works but those aren't real.

This one is gentle cruising at 45mph or so. AFR holds very steady around 14.7-15, the variation is actually much less than you'd get in a stock setup with O2 feedback turned on as it will hunt up and down between low 14s and low 16s by design. The huge spike in AFR is decel fuel cutoff. The dip down to below 14 is slightly over-aggressive tip in fuel which I haven't really messed with yet other than cranking it up enough to eliminate huge lean spikes. This is a great example of the downside of purely AN fueling, miniscule TPS changes can cause large changes in manifold pressure and there's just no way to tune that well with only AN.

log1.PNG


Here's one showing a near WOT pull on an on-ramp. AFR is more jagged here since I haven't tuned these regions of the table very finely yet and is also a bit too rich. The vertical white line shows the exact point my load calculation changes from MAP-based to TPS-based and as you can see the change is nearly perfectly seamless. On the left you can see coming off of decel fuel cut, as load rises my target AFR drops from mid 14s for cruising at low load to under 13 at high load. You can see some very fast lean spikes during shifts, high throttle tip in fueling still needs to be turned up more.

log2.PNG


This log just shows some varied load conditions along with how the ECU responds, for the most part, steady state fueling is getting there, so soon I'll start working more on tip in settings which are mainly what the spikes are here.

log3.PNG


This plot shows some moderate acceleration. Tip in is a bit too aggressive in these ranges as you can see by the AFR dips when getting back on the throttle after shifts. I might also lean out the fueling in these regions of the map since 13 might be a bit richer than needed here. Over on the left you can see a start and AFR leans out a tiny bit to mid 15s but it used to routinely hit 17-18 so its a huge improvement. The revision of my tune after this one stays in the 14s right off idle.

log4.PNG


Overall, its driving really well, AFR control is much tighter now than it was with a [shop that I will not name] RDX injector tune on the stock manifold. I even hit the cruise control a few times to see what would happen and it works, sort of? If you're on the highway it will generally work okay but low speed cruising at like 40-50mph it will basically just alternate between 0% and 10% throttle instead of finding that 2% steady state point and you'll speed up and slow down ever so annoyingly. The throttle is still pretty touchy so I'll be updating the linkage again later on. If I change the resting angle of the arm the throttle cable connects to, I can gain some mechanical advantage at low throttle in in exchange for a slightly stiffer pedal at WOT. I'm planning on daily driving the NSX this week while I overhaul the rear suspension on my 540 so we'll see how that goes, should get lots of part throttle log data to fine tune even more.

If things continue to improve at this rate there is a very real possibility that steetable ITBs will be a virtually bolt on modification for stockish C30s in the near future. The ability to install an ITB kit, chip the ECU, flash a basemap that actually runs, then just make minor changes is virtually unheard of on any platform. I don't think I'd try this on any kit but the one @A.S. Motorsport sells (also the billet manifold are s3xy compared to the cast options) though as the stock injector placement is critical, it allows the factory injection timing algorithms to work properly and as far as I can tell there isn't really a way to change them so trying to run a Toda or Hayward kit on this ECU might present problems because of that.

Oh, I'm using the RDX injector dead times that [MENTION=16951]sparky[/MENTION] posted here 6 years ago as "RDX ACS 1.2" with excellent results so far.

All that said, I must give credit where it is due, since I'm just standing on the shoulders of giants. The countless hours I've poured into this over the past 3 years were only made possible by the work that sr5guy did and made freely available almost 7 years ago to the day. Without his extremely detailed ECU definition none of this would have been remotely possible.
 
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I fixed the hot start and AC problems, and the solution was really simple and kind of funny [snip]Copy/pasting my tuned fuel table into the open loop table fixed these issues 100%.

Always nice when two seemingly un-connected birds are fixed with one stone.

If things continue to improve at this rate there is a very real possibility that steetable ITBs will be a virtually bolt on modification for stockish C30s in the near future. [Snip] All that said, I must give credit where it is due, since I'm just standing on the shoulders of giants.

I've owned my NSX for 5 years now and am confident that the public knowledge base is growingly more quickly than ever because of owners like you. Well done!
 
Yeah I was ripping my hair out trying to figure out the starting and AC issues, since I had both starts and AC working months ago, even with pure TPS load fueling. I had disabled the open loop fueling at the time though then forgot about it when I started from scratch on the blended load tune.

I just hope other people are willing to try this for themselves. It would be cool to see more people start digging into the ECU tuning side of things.

I also figured out (most of) the cold start problems, and its awful and embarrassing. I went to install a 2nd wideband so I can monitor both banks and I found that I had the voltage to AFR conversion for my wideband set up incorrectly. I switched from an Innovate LC2 to an AEM X series controller and changed my logging software accordingly, but that change never got propagated from my desktop PC where I do most of the log processing and actual tuning work to my laptop that I use for logging and on the fly fixes, so my wideband has been reading roughly +2 AFR for...months? Usually you'd run about 14.7 at idle and cruise then 12.5-13 under heavy load, well, I was at about 12.5 at idle and cruise and nearly 10:1 under load, and somewhere around 8 or 9 during cold starts so no wonder the car would barely run. Now that the AFR readings are leaned out to where they should be, the car feels a hell of a lot faster and smoother, and I can finally start tuning the warmup enrichment tables properly.

As far as bank to bank consistency goes, I'm finding that the rear bank runs pretty lean compared to the front, especially under higher RPM/load. Apparently this isn't too weird for NSXs but there's no concrete answer on exactly why it happens but after discussing with RYU and Adnan I have a few theories and longer term ideas for dealing with it but for now I have a temp fix. The stock ECU has static fuel multipliers that are zero'd out in the factory tune but can be tweaked to adjust fueling on a per-cylinder basis, so I just cranked up the rear bank fuel until I was getting the same reading as the front under most conditions. It still leans out a bit under WOT - I see like 13 on the rear bank and 12.5 on the front bank - but for the short term its fine and not dangerous.
 
As far as bank to bank consistency goes, I'm finding that the rear bank runs pretty lean compared to the front, especially under higher RPM/load. Apparently this isn't too weird for NSXs but there's no concrete answer on exactly why it happens but after discussing with RYU and Adnan I have a few theories and longer term ideas for dealing with it but for now I have a temp fix. The stock ECU has static fuel multipliers that are zero'd out in the factory tune but can be tweaked to adjust fueling on a per-cylinder basis, so I just cranked up the rear bank fuel until I was getting the same reading as the front under most conditions. It still leans out a bit under WOT - I see like 13 on the rear bank and 12.5 on the front bank - but for the short term its fine and not dangerous.

I wonder if it's because the rear bank gets fuel last in line? While the FPR is supposed to maintain pressure through the entire line, I wonder if the front rail/INJ is pulling more off the line than the pump and FPR can keep up with in high load states? It might be a miniscule volume difference, but perhaps enough to affect AFR a point or two? Are you using a new FPR or your old one?
 
I wonder if it's because the rear bank gets fuel last in line? While the FPR is supposed to maintain pressure through the entire line, I wonder if the front rail/INJ is pulling more off the line than the pump and FPR can keep up with in high load states? It might be a miniscule volume difference, but perhaps enough to affect AFR a point or two? Are you using a new FPR or your old one?

I've seen some high hp builds plumb the fuel line entry points at cylinder 4 and 1 instead of the OE config of entry at 4 and exit at 1. Mine runs about a half a point lean on the rear as well but i've compensated for it in my tune.
 
Old FPR at the moment. I'm going to replace both the fuel pump and the FPR, I was originally planning on doing it with the new engine but I might do it sooner now that I'm seeing the extent of the issue. I've increased the fuel to the rear by a substantial amount, and its still leaning out almost a full point at high load. My tuning scripts target 12.9:1 AFR at WOT and it averages the readings from both banks so at full load it ends up being low 13s and high 12s which I don't think is dangerous but its definitely not ideal either.

I finally re-enabled VTEC and started dialing that in. I fretted over how to set up the fuel map (and associated TPS vs RPM curve) but ended up just re-interpolating my low cam map out to 9100rpm, adding 8% fuel for safety, then just going for it. For the most part it worked out okay and AFR was about 11:1 at WOT which is a great starting point. I set the engagement point 1000rpm low so I have some room to move the engagement around and see how it changes things but I expect the Honda engineers set it perfectly from the factory, I just want to get the table tuned as best as possible. I used 9100 since I want to rev the built motor to 8800-9000 so might as well take that into account now rather than later. The VTEC lobe actually pulls a bit more vacuum for a given throttle position/RPM so I made some slight tweaks to my TPS vs RPM curve for 90% baro but otherwise it was pretty dang close already. Right now I have a roughly 50/50 split in the VTEC tables (same as low cam tables) between MAP and TPS based load but since the primary use case for VTEC is near WOT I think I'm going to reallocate the table to be heavily biased towards TPS load, maybe 70/30 instead, to provide the best resolution where needed.

The VTEC crossover noise is very pronounced, this video was with the windows closed. (engagement point is factory 5800 in this clip, it felt terrible at 4800)


VTEC AFR is very steady. (green=bank1, red=bank2, orange=rpm, blue=tps 93.3% on the throttle is actually wide open i just haven't adjusted the scale to account for the Jenvey TPS, purple=load, light blue=vtec active) Next up is tuning tip in fuel.

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I'm still blown away by how well the car is driving. I updated my log processing scripts (again) and that seems to have gotten rid of most of the annoyances left in steady state AFR control, I added a crude filter algorithm to throw out samples around areas of rapid load changes and it helped a lot, the throttle closing rich conditions were causing it to pull fuel out in some places and tip in lean conditions were causing it to add fuel in weird places. On/off throttle transitions are nice and smooth, starts and idle are great, AC works perfect even at idle, and really the only irritating thing is the touchy throttle when starting from a standstill. I had a friend drive it and give some feedback and his only real complaint was touchy throttle, otherwise it drove smoothly and as you'd expect.

I'm finding that even using MAP as load reference at light load/low RPM my AFR tends to "drift" by about 0.5 in either direction at times (which seems to be a common theme with ITBs from what I've read), but under high load its quite consistent. Since it holds very steady at higher load I'm not too worried about it since STFTs should be able to handle the slow drifting just fine but I'm going to see if I can improve the low load MAP reference by adding a tighter restriction on the vacuum hose connecting to it or maybe adding an averaging filter on the MAP voltage that's active only at low RPM/load where the pulses from each cylinder will be more spread out resulting in a less stable MAP reading. I recalculate the load value at a fixed 100hz so I could probably average 5-8 samples at lower RPM without any negative effect on responsiveness. Sometimes it will idle in the low 14s or high 13s, sometimes its in the low 15s, neither is really "bad" just not perfect like I'm going for.

For the most part though, steady state AFR is really good. In this case you can see it sit around 14.7 under light load then dip to about 13 when load goes up, then go back up to 14.7 again.

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I'm also noticing some whining from the rear end somewhere, based on how it comes and goes based on acceleration I suspect its a transmission bearing - which I replaced a year or so ago - so I'll be sure to carefully inspect all the bearings and check all clearances when I crack the case open for the NSX-R final drive install.

Edit: Rockauto lists the DENSO 9510014 as the turbo Supra pump, is it a drop in fit for the NSX or do I need to modify anything? And are there any downsides to using it? Also I got my engine block back - again - and I'm scared to open the box and measure it.
 
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Good to know thanks! I'm not 100% sure what pump I'll go with but Supra does seem like a good idea to ensure that lack of fuel is never an issue.

I THINK the annoying lean off idle problem might be finally solved. I was playing around with it trying to make it go lean at idle and got the following log plot by barely feathering the throttle at idle, I'm talking like 0.3% TPS (yeah ITBs are that sensitive). AFR is red and green (not super close in this particular plot but they usually are almost spot on identical), the olive brown is ignition advance, purple is load, and orange is RPM.

The important thing to look at here is the timing value and how it barely moves until it gets to the red circle and jumps up, then engine speed picks up and AFR drops back down. What's happening here is the ECU is controlling idle speed with timing rather than reading the timing advance from the main timing table, until the red circle where it transitions out of "idle timing" mode and back to normal timing. Running 17 degrees advance at idle is fine until you start adding more air and fuel, then you need more timing advance to get a complete burn at such a low RPM. Running this retarded creates a false lean condition on the widebands since not all of the air and fuel are being burned. Before, I had been trying to add fuel right off idle to fight a lean condition that wasn't real which was ruining my AFR during cold starts and when the AC kicked on since the IACV opens more and pushes the load into this heavily over-fueled region of the table.

Once I figured this out, it was a matter of looking at the idle timing assembly code and figuring out why it was disengaging so late, and it turns out that it has a TPS threshold that was set to like 0.6% by default, and changing this threshold to the lowest possible value other than zero (0.1%) almost completely solved the issue along with flattening the fuel table out in that area, now idle timing shuts off as soon as I touch the throttle and starting from a standstill are overall smoother, AC compressor AFRs are not overly rich, and cold starts are much better. I was able to start the car stone cold and drive with no issues in nearly freezing weather which seems pretty crazy to me for having ITBs and no fast idle thermo valve. Fast idle when very cold is like 1100-1200rpm instead of 1800 so that you'd see with a factory manifold so its not quite as smooth but that's just something I'll have to deal with I think due to the size of the vacuum fittings in each intake port restricting idle air flow. When I move to the 3.2 motor I'm going to modify the manifolds to accept larger fittings for better idle air flow but its not worth the obscene effort of taking everything apart to do that right now.

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My fuel table is getting a lot smoother, it used to be very messed up looking in the idle region at low load/low rpm. The high load/low rpm section is sort of guess work at this point. I basically just put a bunch of fuel there to keep things from blowing up since I don't feel like lugging the shit out of the engine at 1000rpm in 5th gear to try to get that part of the map dialed in.

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I also finally put my catalytic converters back on. The tune is getting pretty dialed in so I can run them again without killing them and I noticed virtually no difference with stock cats vs test pipes in feel or in AFR so they seem to flow pretty well. Its so nice to not smell like a lawn mower every time I drive the car, and now I can back into the garage without stinking it up, and the sound is a lot better too, the only thing I'll miss are the rowdy catless downshifts but otherwise the test pipes just sounded terrible.
 
Since I realistically will not be building a plenum anytime soon I bought some crappy sock filters to run on the intakes for the time being. They are downright hideous and are probably -100 street cred but at least I don't have to worry about blowing up my engine over an unlucky rock bounce or aspirated as much road dust or anything else. Fortunately (unfortunately?) they don't seem to make much of a difference how the car runs or affect the AFR in any meaningful way, so they probably don't filter all that well but its still 1000x better than nothing.

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The excessive bank to bank AFR differences were bothering me so I decided it was time for a fuel system upgrade. I suspect a combination of an old tired fuel pump combined with the rather questionable NSX fuel rail design to be the cause of this issue so I got ready to install a fuel pressure sensor that I could log through my laptop, a new OEM FPR, and a Walbro 255 pump. I thought about the Supra pump but thats just massive overkill for what I'm doing and I don't care to rewire the fuel pump circuit.

The pressure sensor is just a standard 150psi brass AEM unit, I made a harness to connect it to the EGR valve lift plug over by the coolant tank so I can easily log the voltage on my laptop by adding that to the list of values that get sent in each data packet. I used to have a mechanical gauge there but it was kind of useless for anything but seeing fuel pressure while idling.

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New OEM FPR and new return hose, nice easy job on the NSX. (this turned out to be a mistake)

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The fuel tank is a bit of a chore, to start off I had to put the car all the way up on jack stands along with some emergency anti-death devices under the rear wheels, which are just wooden blocks.

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Last time I tried to drain it into a red jerry can and that failed miserably and got gas everywhere, so I learned from that mistake and just drained it into a large storage bin. I thought the tank had less in it than it did, that bin was half way full by the time it was done draining and quite heavy. I'm sure my neighbors were concerned when they saw a plastic storage bin full of what looks a lot like urine sitting out in my front yard.

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Getting the tank out really wasn't THAT bad, at least not as bad as the threads I'd read implied it would be. Getting the big filler hose on and off of the filler pipe was annoying but that was the worst part by far. Once empty, the tank was quite light so lowering it down with floor jack and, rotating it onto its side, and sliding it out was pretty easy. Going back in was even easier.

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The whole job took a buddy and I about 6 hours and as many beers, and that was spending over an hour just on the pump swap since I refuse to use crappy closed-barrel splice crimps to wire the pump. I don't have a photo but I crimped a ring terminal onto the Walbro 255 pigtail for the ground, then got another terminal and used that for the positive wire where I cut the old fuel pump off so there are no splices anywhere. The SoS kit worked out pretty well, its a bit pricey compared to sourcing the parts à la carte but very convenient that everything is included so worth it IMO.

Something I hadn't properly planned for was getting the fuel from the storage box back into the fuel tank, I had cleaned the tub out beforehand but I thought there was way less fuel in the tank than what came out. It was way too much to just dump in my small jerry cans and slowly use in the lawn mower and I don't want to just dump it down the gutter, so back into the car it must go. The first thing we tried was one of those little hand pump things like you'd use to put a few liters of fluid into a transmission. After cranking away on that thing for a while and making zero progress we realized we had to come up with a better method before the fumes killed too many brain cells. What ended up working was using a kitchen pot to scoop the gas into a funnel sticking out of the filler since the tub was too heavy and sloshy to reliably pour, then when it got low enough just pour the rest in. We had a big fan going for ventilation so the fumes weren't too bad but still it was one of those memorable moments you don't want to repeat.

After putting it back together and going for a test drive something was very wrong, the car was running pig f*cking rich and fuel pressure was way too high. I'd jumped the resistor so I put the resistor back in and that brought the idle pressure down to a slightly more reasonable 46psi but thats still well out of spec for the factory regulator, so it's pretty clear this pump is overpowering what the regulator is capable of returning to the tank at low load. AFRs are an absolute mess and quite erratic as well, so I'm going to need to move to an aftermarket regulator I think. Trying to tune around this would just be a band aid fix and possibly introduce other weird issues later when the FPR dies to the abuse. Its also wayyy richer at wide open throttle than low load, so I suspect I was compensating for a weak fuel supply in my tune as well. Next step is to install an adjustable FPR, not sure which one yet probably aeromotive, then start driving and logging more.

I'd also been getting CEL 3-6 and 4-2 for removing the traction control computer and the rear O2 sensor when I installed another wideband and after some digging in the assembly code I was able to program those codes away, leaving me with just an annoying CEL 5-3 for the rear knock sensor circuit which I need to figure out. I was getting this code before the ITB install and I thought I fixed it by replacing the knock sensor sub harness but apparently not, so that'll be fun.
 
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Since I posted some wrong information in my last post I figured I'd make another quick update.

After talking to [MENTION=20915]RYU[/MENTION], [MENTION=18194]Honcho[/MENTION], and calling SoS I realized that I had a completely wrong understanding of how the fuel pressure regulator works. The 255 pump is not overflowing the FPR at all (according to SoS the factory FPR is good for up to 320lph), the increased flow is just increasing the base fuel pressure. I should have known this, as I take this fact into account every time I set up my air compressor to run an air tool since regulated pressure depends on consistent flow.

Looking at my logs, fuel pressure is regulating just fine, its just higher than it was before, and with the higher flowing Walbro pump the high speed and low speed modes have a massive 6-8psi change in pressure vs the 2-3psi change you see with a stock pump in high/low speed which was the reason for the super wacky air fuel ratios under load.

The base pressure with the Walbro pump running full speed is 57-58psi which is very close to the recommended 55psi to get the optimal spray pattern out of the RDX injectors so I'm just going to run the fuel pump in high speed mode all the time and retune to suit. I can rewrite the fuel pump control function in the ECU, its located completely in the external ROM chip, so later on I might try to add back in low speed mode with a different set of switching parameters better suited to my application but for now simplicity is key.

All that said, I don't know how people have installed Walbro 255 pumps on completely stock setups and had them run properly afterwards. I imagine the fuel trims could mostly sort out the low load stuff but at WOT the car would be ridiculously rich with nearly 15% higher rail pressure than stock in high speed mode.
 
I was thinking about your high fuel pressure the other day and that it's good for your RDX injectors.

Also, folks have mentioned here in the past about upgrading the Walbro 255 on their CTSC cars without the voltage ramp booster. Now that makes sense. Still not a way I want to a run a CTSC but I can see why it would sorta work. I'm unaware of anyone running a Walbro 255 on a stock engine but i'm sure it's happened/happening.
 
Cold fast idle seem to be much improved with no changes other than fuel pressure, it used to idle at about 1000rpm when started in cold weather, now it sits happily at 1500. I've heard the RDX injectors atomize best above 55psi? And also read that cold starts are tough due to poor atomization?

That said, everything else has been a huge mess after the fuel pump swap. The rear bank wideband was reading 2-4 points leaner than the front so I'm trying to figure out why. I had my fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested at a local shop to rule it out and they all checked out good, I even went as far as to have them tested at two different pressures, 45psi and 60psi, to ensure there wasn't something weird happening at higher pressures. Differences this bad aren't a fuel rail problem so at this point I think it has to be either an ECU or sensor issue. I checked the spark plugs and none of them were wildly different looking so I don't think the difference is actually as bad as the widebands are telling me I just have to figure out why.

I haven't started the car since putting the injectors back in yet so IDK maybe that will take care of it, but I also put in 2 brand new wideband sensors and reset my controllers to resistor calibration (LSU 4.9 sensors have a resistor calibration built in from the factory so on new sensors that will be the most accurate) so they should be pretty dang accurate. I'm also going to check the wideband wiring again to make sure everything is grounded properly, as even being off a fraction of a volt could throw the readings off pretty badly.

I also pulled the spark plugs out to see if there was any signs of weirdness there and not particularly, they looked pretty normal. I also compression tested the engine again just as a general health check and its still at 220-230psi on all cylinders completely cold so that's good.

Edit: I drove the car. Bank to bank AFRs are pretty much spot on. I don't know if it was a bad O2 sensor or a clogged/sticky injector but the issue seems to be resolved. AFRs are very close now so regular tuning can resume.
 
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I didn't realize how long it'd been since I last posted here.

As I put in my edit last time, some combination of clean injectors and new oxygen sensors showed both banks having essentially identical AFR. I'll give it 90% chance of an O2 sensor issue and 10% chance of an injector problem.

Since then I've mostly just been driving and logging and tuning. I'm at the point where I can pretty much just get in and drive without worry and the last big thing is dyno tuning. From there its just dealing with fine details.

Knock Sensors

To prepare for dyno tuning, I wanted some way to monitor for engine knock more closely than the OEM sensors allow for. After doing some research the TunerNerd Knock Monitor seemed like a good option so I bought one of those and it comes with its own Bosch knock sensor which needed to be mounted. I want to keep the factory knock monitoring if at all possible so I needed a place to mount the Bosch sensor separate from that, and I also needed to replace the knock sensors since one of the aftermarket NTK sensors I got from RockAuto was throwing a knock sensor circuit code and I'd deduced that it was not an issue in the wire harness.

First step: remove the entire intake setup. Its actually pretty easy compared to the stock manifold but the pain in the ass part is realigning the throttle linkage after putting it back on.

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Nice view of my vacuum line rats nest connecting each intake runner to the common vacuum rail.

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Knock sensors replaced with new OEM sensors torqued to 23lbft, wire harness holder cut, and aftermarket sensor installed on the mounting post.

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I cleaned the intake while it was apart, it wasn't much driving that resulted in this nasty mess, use air filters folks.

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And that was about it for the knock sensor job. I put it back together then realigned the throttles. It's pretty easy to tell if the throttle alignment is off, as the bank to bank AFR drifts apart at very low throttle openings and evens out as they open up.

Ignition Timing

Now that the fuel table is reasonably well tuned I can write a script to compare the OEM fuel table to my new fuel table then use that to generate a new timing map that should be roughly equivalent to OEM but for my blended load calculation. The fuel tables are RPM vs LOAD, but the factory load is essentially just manifold pressure, however mine is a combination of manifold pressure and throttle position that isn't really comparable. However, with a tuned fuel map, I can roughly calculate an equivalent load value in the OEM map based on the where a fuel table value is relative to the highest and lowest value in a particular RPM row, then use this equivalent load value to get the associated ignition timing from the OEM map. So if the fuel value in my map is halfway between the highest and lowest value for a given RPM band, I find the load value associated with the halfway point fuel value in the OEM map and use that to get the ignition timing advance. This isn't a perfect system as ITBs have some slightly different characteristics at low RPM/high load that require less timing to prevent knock but this helped a TON in the cruise and WOT areas of the timing map.

This is the OEM timing map.

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And this is the timing map for my blended load.

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You might notice that the low RPM region of the 2nd map is kind of smooshed towards the right and the high RPM section is kind of smooshed towards the left, this is because I have a lot of the lower RPM areas delegated to MAP load and a lot of the high RPM part of the table delegated to TPS load. Before running the map I did some hand smoothing in some areas as well as pulling some timing out at low RPM/high load areas but it didn't take a lot of changes and the car feels a lot better than it did with the old map I was running, mainly due to the massive increase in timing in the midrange. So hopefully this map is much closer to maximum brake torque and will reduce the amount of time needed on the dyno to get it fully dialed in.

Throttle Linkage v3

My throttle linkage has been working okay but was still extremely sensitive right off idle so I decided to make some more changes. Ultimately I'll remake the linkage in a much less ugly way once I'm happy with it but here's the rough and dirty R&D version.

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This was an absolutely massive improvement in pedal feel. Its much lighter and less sensitive at low throttle and heavier and more sensitive at high throttle openings. I wish I could make it a bit lighter at high throttle but it is 100% a worthwhile compromise for the huge improvement in drivability, it almost resembles driving a normal car again. I might play with the linkage a bit more but I think its getting close to as good as it can be.

I need to improve the cable reel in the center, not because it doesn't feel good but because its not reliable. At one point I hit the throttle on an on ramp and the cable popped off, leaving me to coast to the shoulder and try to put it back on in the dark without only my phone flashlight. A fix will be just adding 2 thin pieces of metal on the outside of greater diameter to keep the cable in place.

Wheels

After more than a year I finally have Volk ZE40s in OG anodized bronze finish. These aren't the set I ordered new last January though, this is a used set I bought because I was tired of waiting which I will then sell whenever the other ones show up. I passed them off to a detailer friend for cleaning and ceramic coat before having the tires mounted, then took them to another friend and fellow NSX owner and they came out great. The only downside was some slight scrapes on one of the rims from being poorly packaged but I worked that out with the seller and its not very noticeable at all.

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I don't have any good photos on the car yet and the stance needs to be tweaked a bit. I'm not sure if I'll try to lower the car any further or just add a bit of camber, since the current ride height lets me not worry too much about scraping, but either way it needs some adjustment.

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I love the look of the extended studs and titanium lug nuts.

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Hopefully better pictures to come.

Engine

A buddy has a vapor blasting cabinet so he's cleaning up as many of the smaller aluminum parts as possible and they came out looking amazing. There's more stuff in the queue still but this is whats been done so far. The first pic is what most of the parts looked like before.

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I also bought the dry sump system that was in the classifieds for $1000, at that price point I figured why not and with some careful setup I should be able to keep AC and get most of my money back by selling my new Toda oil pump that I was originally planning on using. Mounting the tank and getting the oil filter and cooler fitted will be tricky but should be well worth it since this will 100% solve the lack of crankcase vacuum issue I have with the ITBs as well as add some power. I'm going to try to bend my own hardlines for as many of the oil lines as possible then just have flexible SS hoses connecting to the chassis mounted tank. As for the filter and cooler, I'll probably try to build a mounting block for the factory cooler/filter assembly for now but if I ever need better cooling it will be easy to add later.

Or I might decide its too much trouble and be stuck with another $1000 paperweight.
 
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Clever with the timing table remap. Did you notice fuel needs change with the timing changes? I could see it converging after a couple cycles of adjust fuel map, remap timing, repeat.

The wheels look great! What tires did you go with?
 
The timing map I generated was very similar in the cruise and WOT areas of the map I was already running but had 5-8 degrees more in some of the mid range areas. I should have paid attention to what my scripts were saying after the first drive with the new timing map but I didn't, I might flash the old timing map and see if it pulls fuel out in some places just to see the difference though now that you mention it.

The tires are RT660s in 215/40r17 and 265/35r18 and the wheels are 17x9 +40 and 18x10.5 +24. The wheels I originally ordered were 8.5 and 10 inches wide respectively so I ended up with a little more stretch than I wanted. Going from the factory wheel and tire sizes, I gained 3lbs per corner on the front and 4lbs each in the rear which is a lot less than I was expecting, the ZE40s are very light wheels for the size.

With the new wheels I can finally get going on my BBK project again which was stalled because the stock 16" wheels were too small for the Porsche 996 calipers and 320mm Nissan Rogue rotors. That said, now the question is whether or not there's enough clearance between the rotor and the spokes for the calipers to fit, the issue with a lot of OEM spec Brembo calipers is that they are very bulky and wide which does not work well with the extremely flat rotors and wheel offsets that the NSX uses.
 
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