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New Dual-Adjustable, Remote Reservoir Coilovers!

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My search for coilovers story is similar to most others here:

*Need to upgrade my old stock stuff
*Would like to track but will be mostly driven on the street
*Want adjustability for future tinkering
*Try to do as much research as possible up front so this is hopefully a "one-time" purchase I'll be happy with for awhile.
*Get as much as I can for my money (not buying a "name," while also not getting ripped off by cheap stuff)

On my search for new coilovers, I've done a lot of internet reading. I've read a lot (if not all) of [email protected]'s and others posts on handling, and they have been very informative and helpful. There really is a wealth of information here (and Dali's website too). My budget is $2k like a lot of other NSX owners that I've found. This covers about all of the most popular models but leaves a significant $1k+ gap to the stuff like Ohlins, Koni Pro, JRZ, Moton, etc.

A very important aspect for me is the height adjustability. My car is a daily-driver and my driveway has a significant curb. I can only lower a maximum of an inch right now. After the car is retired from DD routine in a few years, I'll lower her more and deal with driveway modifications later. That leaves me with filtering through the $2k coilovers available (Tein, JIC, HKS, ARK, Buddy Club, DG5, other JDM stuff, etc).

From what I've read, people who have gone to a JDM setup from their OEM stuff appear to have very mixed reviews. The much higher spring rates than stock gives the impression of a sporty ride with no body roll, but at the high cost of comfort. The ride is little improved as the dampeners are softened, since they still have poor low speed dampening. The really expensive $4k and up stuff has more technology in their dampeners for low/high speed compression/rebound dampening and that's what makes them even somewhat comfortable on the street.

I started looking into coilovers from KSport. There have been a few threads and posts on these coilovers here, and much more info out on the web. They met my feature requirements, are made in Taiwan, and have a 1 year warranty. Also, these are rebuildable in the USA (with little turnaround time compared to Teins from what I’ve read). There are various grades of performance, ranging from the basic coilover kits for mainly the slammed crowd to the monotube inverted coilover kits for track/street. My extensive internet searching did turn up a few isolated complaints with these (by far, most were praises), but these were older reviews (all seals are now by NOK in Japan) and most likely due to improper installation/application (slammed too low). They are popular and have a good reputation.

I was originally interested in D2's, but after reading more, KSport seems to be more into the racing world with good known support. Also, I've read one racers various threads on Nissan and Honda boards, PhoenixR34. A very interesting thread on his S2000 NASA buildup is here (with a few Science Of Speed or SOS shop pics):

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=567808&st=0

He appears to be very knowledgeable and successful racing his 240sx and S2000. I will never be at his racing level, so thought I would go ahead and try the KSports since the features, quality, and price seemed right.

The top-of-the-line KSport model is the soon-to-be-recently-released Circuit-Pro inverted monotube coilover, some highlights are below:
• Inverted monotube with 55mm strut.
• Compression and rebound dampening are adjusted separately.
• Nitrogen pressure is adjustable.
• Will come with a dyno graph.

The features and material specifications for these are impressive, and they sure look well-made with quality construction. Spring rates are user-defined, so I went with the 15 kg/mm (840 lb/in) spring rates in the front, and 11 kg/mm (616 lb/in) rates in the back (a popular ratio of 1.36 front/back). Dali has a great spring rate comparison table that you can compare these too for reference.

I’m pretty excited – These should be shipped to me in about three weeks :biggrin:


http://www.k-sportracing.com/shock-super-racing-intro.html

Company Profile:
http://www.k-sportracing.com/company_profile.html
 
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Sounds like you have a good understanding of your needs and the various options.I like the fact that you have been able to make an informed decision based on research and as always some faith.Please update us with how they feel.
 
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I've read a lot (if not all) of [email protected]'s and others posts on handling, and they have been very informative and helpful.

I'm pretty sure that no where in any of my posts did I say to buy K-Sport coil overs. That's like right up there with Megan Racing eBay stuff.

In fact, the NASA PTB/TTB race car I bought last week in Phoenix the guy had K-Sport coil-overs and camber adjustable upper A-Arms on them. Must be popular down there. Here is my summary:

Might be just incredible for some people... but IMO they are Junk. Coming back from Phoenix I broke one upper A arm somewhere near Reading, CA and had to do my best to fix it in Home Depot's parking lot. The other one broke twice- once pulling out of the garage and the other Eddie broke in T12 in about 3 laps. By the end of the day we had both stock upper A arms back on the car. I can't possibly even understand how they sell these things for $600- the design of the spherical bearing is all wrong- it sheared the 1/2" grade 11 allen bolt that connects the hub to the arm like a twig.

As far as the shocks, their rebound knob is useless it doesn't even have dedents and is highly insensitive at low speed. The dampening and feel of their single adjustables has to be worse than a brand new set of stock shocks. Full soft feels sloppy and full stiff feels like a pogo stick. If I would have had a stock set of shocks even with 40,000 miles on them I would have put them back on too in the hot pits. Providing I decide to convert it to T2 spec, one of the first things I intend to do is buy a real set of shocks and push out the bearing in these arms.

Obviously price is an important consideration, maybe try KW. IMO you'd be better with a quality single adjustable than a cheap-o double with a huge feature list.

Hope that helps.
 
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I'm pretty sure that no where in any of my posts did I say to buy K-Sport coil overs. That's like right up there with Megan Racing eBay stuff.

No, you never did. I was just saying I had read a lot of your posts on suspensions and handling.

This post did however, have a link to a 350z board that you said pretty much weeded out the cheap stuff:http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=887163&postcount=6. D2's were listed there as acceptable, and D2's, KSports, etc. have striking similarities. But of course, I did much more research and spent many nights reading all the threads I could find on import forums. The success of PhoenixR34 on the forum I linked in my first post seemed to be pretty good, but we all know a good driver can make up for inferior equipment.

Regardless, I'm committed to trying them now. I'll post how they work. I appreciate your input.
 
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on second thought,,,they suck!!!:tongue:
 
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John I realize the ones you had may have been a junk set. But are they all bad? I mean... in my world of electronics... the best companies put out their fair share of junk, and the worst companies sometimes, somehow, come out with a gem. You literally have to judge them model by model.

I too appreciate all the input you give, but do you think ALL K-sport would be bad? That orange color and those chrome stripes on the remote reservoirs look really cool!!! Man you always ruin every moment of excitement we have around here sometimes. :biggrin:
 
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No, you never did. I was just saying I had read a lot of your posts on suspensions and handling.

I see. Pretty much my thirty paragraph post can be summed up as follows:

- Don't even think about buying cheap eBay crap
- Due your due diligence when researching middle of the road gear as their is a lot of re-branded import gear of questionable actual performance value often by companies with questionable racing credentials
- Don't waste money on quad adjustable stuff without a pit crew

If you are not sure, discussing your selection with a reputable motorsports engineer or racer whom has your best interests at heart, is always sound advice.



http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=887163&postcount=6. D2's were listed there as acceptable, and D2's, KSports, etc.

Maybe I didn't communicate my thoughts effectively enough.

That page is a lot like Hyper Rev which is what I was looking for- it has all the big import names you hear on many of the forums. At least at the minimum it kind of weeds out what I think of as the really, really cheap eBay crap- QA1, KYB G2's, Toxico AGX, Skunk2, etc... which is the quality level the original user was considering for an NSX, and I think everyone can can agree is just junk- street, track, race, or show car.

Part of the communication problem, is someone asks how do you really quantify "what is a better import coil-over: Buddy Club or Kei Office". My opinion is that if you aren't sure and have to ask, you are really probably grasping at straws.

It's like saying which is better- the Kia Spectra or the Hyundai Accent?



have striking similarities.

Exactly my point.

Probably 9/10 noobie customers are going to then in turn look at feature set as the deciding factor (i.e. which has the bigger feature list in the brochure- positions, knobs, construction, looks cooler etc...) because they don't have the on-track experience to compare dampers any other way. It of course is the R&D and testing that really counts the most toward developing good suspension for a given application. Of course, this is the expensive part many vendors conveniently like to tend to skip. Usually they have 70 other more profitable applications than the NSX to worry about as well.

My lesson learned is that if you don't have the technical knowledge/motorsports experience... why take chances and do your own R&D to find out the hard way? If you are going to spend $2000 on suspension why gamble on the new Super Sushi Coil overs from Taiwan? In the long run, would it not be a lot easier to spend the extra $1000 and get something you know you will always be happy with? Many of us spend more on one track day or race weekend than that.

That's good money there you could have put towards quality product. No need to swap them back off, sell them, order new ones, re-corner weight and balance the car. No lost days where the car felt poor. If you look at the big picture, what are you really saving? Make sense?



But of course, I did much more research and spent many nights reading all the threads I could find on import forums.

It sounds like you tried to do the right thing. My big caution was centered on taking blind advice on internet forums.

As I said, shocks are in many ways more of a function of driver than car. It could well be that Driver A thinks they are great and Driver B thinks they are less than junk being unworthy. Often all that is on the table is just the difference in driver competency and application. Happens all the time. Many characteristics of suspension will not reveal themselves until at or near the limit, or after a lot of abuse.

If you are really just streeting them 99.9% of the time... does it matter? Hey, you know when I first got in to motorsports I wouldn't have known the handling difference.

Hope I don't offend anyone here but the 350Z-Tech forums are loaded with kids with 19" dubs, large audio systems, and street fighter NISMO aero kits. Most are 100% street and probably think the Megan and D2 stuff is just fine, and it probably is for whatever they are doing- replacing their worn out stock shocks on their 3600lb boat before they set sail to the movie theater.



The success of PhoenixR34 on the forum I linked in my first post seemed to be pretty good, but we all know a good driver can make up for inferior equipment.

I can only attempt to speculate given my latest experience down that way: Newly setup street car turned time trial car, new driver, probably just putting his foot in the door. Took what someone sold him online and/or what he could afford on a limited budget as good enough???

Looks like he did ok.

As you said a good driver can get by on less... but come on....if you don't have a car that feels right what do you really have? It's either right or it's not. Not that it may apply to what you are doing, but IMHO especially if you have thousands on the line competing in a race car or running a lot of track days it sure doesn't make a lot of sense to cheap out and show up on crappy shocks.


Regardless, I'm committed to trying them now. I'll post how they work.

Let us know. Who knows, I doubt it, but maybe their dual adjust ables will be better.
 
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John I realize the ones you had may have been a junk set. But are they all bad?

Can't say. Could just be all bad for John. :wink:

While I fully admit my experience with them is limited to one week and two track days on the Z, personally I think it's a poor compromise on an otherwise expensive investment.

As to the 2K.... I would bet the shirt on my back they won't out-perform stock AP1 or CSR shocks for the S2000. I've had two S2K's. Handling on a brand new set of stock shocks for $800 is hard to out-perform on the track without laying down some pretty good money.


I mean... in my world of electronics... the best companies put out their fair share of junk, and the worst companies sometimes, somehow, come out with a gem. You literally have to judge them model by model.

The Zune is cooler than the IPOD. :biggrin:


That orange color and those chrome stripes on the remote reservoirs look really cool!!!

Are you going to be peering down there to take pictures in the middle of the race? Hmm. Taiwanese mass-produced cheap coilover that strangely look like expensive Motons....

Right... Right...

Like those slip on Brembo caliper covers.


Man you always ruin every moment of excitement we have around here sometimes. :biggrin:

All I can say is that if you had to fix my K-Sport camber adjustable upper A-Arm in 115 degree heat in the valley in the middle of a 1,500 mile road trip I think you would have developed a bad taste for the brand too.... :cool:
 
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well John, i have D2 coilovers... and i posted here before about them, but let me do a quick comment on them.

they are in my NSX for about 45 to 50K kms... and i can say that after i adjust them, i've found 2 settings that i use...one for everyday use and other for time attack like driving.

i can say that with all that long milles on them, they didn't loose any of it's initial performance/behavior. They work and feel like in the very first days.

after this said, i don't expect them to be like king of the coils heaven or something. what i can say is that for what they cost (and a bit more), they are incredible....

of course, get me a set of Moton, Ohlins or Leda's and i'll gladly use them :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

for what they cost, they are very good indeed
 
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Wow.

I had no idea you would have responded like this John. It must purely be because of the very unfortunate circumstances you just went through, since you didn't exhibit any of this hostility in this thread:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?p=887163#post887163

I've heard of quality problems with JIC, TEIN, and even the nice Koni 3012's. Would I rule those out completely? No.


Sorry about your used car. It sounds like it was abused and riced out. Who knows how many curbs it had been slammed into from some kid trying to drift in a 350Z? Also, I have to ask: Why would you ever take a car out on the track with evidence of a non-par suspension, much less the street :confused:
 
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I had no idea you would have responded like this John.

The message is consistent. Sorry if some feel offended around my disdain for cheap Taiwanese shocks. Being PC is definitely not my thing. :wink:

I drove 1900 miles on the K Sports this week plus 2 full track days. Frankly, I don't even think they are as good as the Tein Type Basics. I intend to replace them.



I've heard of quality problems with JIC, TEIN, and even the nice Koni 3012's. Would I rule those out completely? No.

I've logged hundreds of thousands of miles and who knows how much track time on Teins and other comparable tuner shocks across a wide range of applications. The more time I log, the more I've learned that the only real reason to downgrade from a known quality product that's pretty much an industry standard to a known/unknown less-than-ideal product is ultimately either money/necessity/ignorance.

Decide which.


Sorry about your used car. It sounds like it was abused and riced out. Who knows how many curbs it had been slammed into from some kid trying to drift in a 350Z?

What are you talking about? Abused and Riced out? Not sure how you got that out of my reply. However... I hope it had better seen some curbs before, or I got really ripped off!

It's a fully prepped road race car btw, 2nd in class winner, and was extremely well maintained within its envelope. NASA log book, 9 races on chassis. I would assert your assumption on what I would buy is highly mis-founded. Several here on prime can vouch. If I decide to do so I'll have to de-tune it to compete in T2 as if anything it is already too modified.

Still, not in anyway uncommon- the suspension tuning was just not where it should be and that again is a function of driver/owner. Look. The day I find that I can't afford better shocks than K-Sport I'll take that as a red flag. :tongue:


Also, I have to ask: Why would you ever take a car out on the track with evidence of a non-par suspension, much less the street :confused:

Why would you ever take a car out on the track with evidence of a non-par suspension?

Races are won and lost on bent suspension members, bad alignments, broken transmissions, used/patched tires, and all sorts of less than ideal mechanical circumstances. Students and racers show up at the track in non-pro prepped rides all the time and manage to finish fine. Pros wreck their cars five times and finish 1st in 24 hour Enduros. In my case I invested three days off work to buy the car I needed to know what it was going to do.

Anyone that can't perform on the track well with less than pro gear in ideal conditions is a one shot wonder. The obvious answer is you adjust your driving to compensate.

It's always hardest to point the finger inward.

My Z ran a 1:34 warm up lap, then 1:31-1:32 at PIR this past weekend short shifting with a warped rotor. I couldn't get a spare in time. The car couldn't stop, whenever I hit the brake it simply violently shuddered. I sanded it down with 80 grit, then I didn't bring it in until the pad separated from the backing plate and simply disintegrated. Had I not had those complications it would likely have been comparable on AMB to other Z's in-class at high 1:20's

Why would anyone let poor suspension and brakes stop them from going fast?

Hell, if that was the case their wouldn't be a Showroom Stock Class. :confused:
 
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...It's a fully prepped road race car btw, 2nd in class winner, and was extremely well maintained within its envelope. NASA log book, 9 races on chassis.

Then why would it have all your allegedly inferior K-Sport stuff on it?

Look, we can keep going around and round on this. It's pretty apparent from your above posts that you have been inconsistent.

Bottom line is:

For the same price as Teins and other popular coilovers here (which many Prime users have swapped out over the years for various reasons), a new design has come out from a reputable company. I'm not into seriously tracking my car (have a Corvette for that :cool: ), so Motons etc. are way overkill for me. Even if I do track this car later, you yourself have said that a driver just needs to adapt to the vehicle to be decent. Any coilover out there will allow someone to do just that. You obviously don't need to have Motons to have fun out on a track do you?


Please, stop insinuating that people who use K-Sports or like brands are cheap or need better jobs. Did you tell the previous owner of your super-duper track Z that?


"Why would anyone let poor suspension and brakes stop them from going fast?"

Don't tracks generally require a vehicle to be mechanically safe before going out? If you don't conform to this, then that's pure negligence. I hope you don't injure yourself or anyone else because of that mentality.
 
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Then why would it have all your allegedly inferior K-Sport stuff on it?

Who knows. You would have to ask SRD. At this point I have no idea why anyone would build a 40,50,80K race car then put cheap coil overs on it so they can save a couple of bucks. I doubt you'll see that on Renn List. As you said, driver can over-come a lot of deficiency. Street is one thing but on a race car I have come to expect a higher standard.

It's not alleged either. A google search for K-Sport and Junk should land you a healthy set of results as I discovered today. Apparently they are made in the same foreign factory as the D2's.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1452592
http://forums.motivemag.com/zerothread?id=3702687
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1322139
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666252



Look, we can keep going around and round on this. It's pretty apparent from your above posts that you have been inconsistent.

If you want someone to tell you what you want to hear now that you've spent all that money... their are plenty of members and vendors on prime to butter your bread or sell you stuff you don't need.

Look. I just bought a race car with a huge K Sport logo across the door. We were all suspect prior. I had not used them before, but figured whatever.... worst case I would probably have to replace them straight away and put some dollars into it. Maybe the other driver thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. I am not afraid to step up and say I think for racing these are crap. You'll find that suspension is a highly personal decision.

As to being inconsistant. I said one can make do with less, I never said anyone should have to do so. If you feel the K-Sports or D2's will work for you, no harm no foul- no one here is going to tell you otherwise. However, I am discussing in the context of a dedicated race car... I could care less what shocks people have on the street or street/track which is what most of you are inquiring about.

If I was being a jerk, I'd just say... On I5 I'm sure the remote canisters and 13kg springs will probably feel great and be just what you need...




Please, stop insinuating that people who use K-Sports or like brands are cheap or need better jobs. Did you tell the previous owner of your super-duper track Z that?

Yes. In fact my exact words when I got back were "barely trackable" and there was no way he could have ever "driven the vehicle really hard". Come on, we broke it again in a few laps. If a car can't survive me driving it to the track what will it do once I arrive? I will go back over the vehicle to fix the little issues, including replacing the marginal shocks and poorly designed camber adjustable upper A-Arms with something respectable that won't break on me.


Don't tracks generally require a vehicle to be mechanically safe before going out? If you don't conform to this, then that's pure negligence. I hope you don't injure yourself or anyone else because of that mentality.

As I said, race cars break all the time and people learn to make do in less than ideal circumstances. Managing risk is what racing is all about. If you want to play it safe try Auto-X
 
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........Coming back from Phoenix I broke one upper A arm somewhere near Reading, CA and had to do my best to fix it in Home Depot's parking lot........

Was this Redding Ca :confused: were everybody picks me up (for THill and Sears) because who knows who broke my car THIS WEEK :wink:

All you had to do was Call or get my number from TiDave and I've got 3 shops we could use :smile:
 
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John,

Knock-off companies have come pretty far and pretty fast reverse-engineering other designs - look at a lot of our NSX products. I'm not saying which companies do and don't - just pointing out the global trend. The companies that spend the R&D money do have an advantage initially, but are soon caught up with. To be honest, the only part that slightly worries me about this purchase is the material quality. I've purchased a few exotic materials from overseas, and during machining, it is obvious they didn't have very good quality control. If you look at the link to KSports site, they are TUV and ISO 2000 certified, and use Japanese NOK seals. Like DocJohn said, this is also a little leap of faith, which holds true to basically anything you purchase. I can point out very expensive consumer items I have purchased because they were highly recommended, were rated the best, and were expensive, but total crap IMO.

If you're building some serious race vehicle, you're right, $2k is just a set of weekend tires. BUT, what percentage of people here are into that? I never claimed this is for a race NSX or said they were superior to any other product out there so please realize that and let's move on... Wait... each one of these is individually tested and comes with its own shock dyno. I can post those later and we can bicker about them then. I have never seen any shock dyno results posted on this site, much less heard any discussion about that. Most coilover buyers here probably don't have a clue what a shock dyno does. Dali's website is the only thing I have seen some mention of this....

I appreciate your input, but I still believe this is a pretty cool new product available to the "casual NSX coilover buyer." I'll make sure and post my experiences with them over time after I get them installed. Also, the corporate KSport website says they are only available to VIP clients and distributors, so I kinda feel special :tongue:

In the meantime I just need to find and dust off my corner-balancing scales....:biggrin:
 
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John,

Knock-off companies have come pretty far and pretty fast reverse-engineering other designs - look at a lot of our NSX products. I'm not saying which companies do and don't - just pointing out the global trend. The companies that spend the R&D money do have an advantage initially, but are soon caught up with. To be honest, the only part that slightly worries me about this purchase is the material quality. I've purchased a few exotic materials from overseas, and during machining, it is obvious they didn't have very good quality control. If you look at the link to KSports site, they are TUV and ISO 2000 certified, and use Japanese NOK seals.

I agree. Shocks with poor valving or handling characteristics are one thing. I can get by on that. Their upper A arm design is inexcusable IMO. I've had a few people look at it. Their is a reason why the OEM's have a ball joint on the arm. My resident expert tells me it needs a high-misalignment spherical bearing. As you can tell that experience is weighing heavily on my opinion of K-Sport at the moment.


If you're building some serious race vehicle, you're right, $2k is just a set of weekend tires. BUT, what percentage of people here are into that? I never claimed this is for a race NSX or said they were superior to any other product out there so please realize that and let's move on...

No idea. But... all I know is that after you spend thousands in registration fees, gas, maintenance, and travel- a few hundred bucks extra per shock is a total non-affair.


Also, the corporate KSport website says they are only available to VIP clients and distributors, so I kinda feel special :tongue:

In the meantime I just need to find and dust off my corner-balancing scales....:biggrin:

You have to be a VIP to try K-Sport coil overs? I'd feel special.

feeling-valued-colour.jpg
 
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.........Wait... each one of these is individually tested and comes with its own shock dyno. I can post those later and we can bicker about them then. I have never seen any shock dyno results posted on this site, much less heard any discussion about...........

You want us to post shock dynos per corner and weight :rolleyes: your right that would make one boring topic.

BTW: The re-building centers for Penski and Koni send them with every checkout.

So how long does it take KSPORT turn around for a re-valving, maintenance? Do they have a service center in the States?

I would want to know this before I SAVED myself 1k :cool:
 
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You want us to post shock dynos per corner and weight :rolleyes: your right that would make one boring topic.

BTW: The re-building centers for Penski and Koni send them with every checkout.

So how long does it take KSPORT turn around for a re-valving, maintenance? Do they have a service center in the States?

I would want to know this before I SAVED myself 1k :cool:

It's quicker than Tein. Yes, they rebuild here in the states.

The difference is significantly more than $1k :wink:
 
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It's not alleged either. A google search for K-Sport and Junk should land you a healthy set of results as I discovered today. Apparently they are made in the same foreign factory as the D2's.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1452592
http://forums.motivemag.com/zerothread?id=3702687
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1322139
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123666252

You apparently haven't read much of what I wrote in the first post, which obviously confirms that you are very close-minded. Fine. This is my last reply to you on this subject.



If you want someone to tell you what you want to hear now that you've spent all that money...

I could care less what others think. This is my daily-driver and I still have the original '92 wheels on it. Not out to impress anyone. Since it's nearing 100k, I figure I would retire it soon and start modifying it. That, or I hit a deer on the way to work and just buy a new GTR.

Oh, it's not a lot of money either. I am just trying to help others in their search for coilovers mostly for the street. That was the third line posted in this thread if you ever bothered to read it. Jeez, and I'm not nearly as long-winded as you are in your posts.


As I said, race cars break all the time and people learn to make do in less than ideal circumstances. Managing risk is what racing is all about. If you want to play it safe try Auto-X

Play it safe? Please, you have no idea who I am or what I engineer, but I firmly believe in safety. I was referencing the fact that you drove a used car on a long trip back home, had to deal with a supposedly inferior A-arm, and then went on to track said car with supposedly inferior A-arms later? Sounds like you had time to switch them out before the track with the OEMs... Why not? Why take a chance destroying the car and injuring yourself and others with a known significant defect? Contrary to what you may think, you're not a professional driver with big sponsorships backing you (I'm not either. The best I could do a long time ago was Michelin). If you go out to the track on weekends to play, there's not enough riding on the line that should make you feel you need to take significant risks.

Good night,
Dave
 
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You apparently haven't read much of what I wrote in the first post, which obviously confirms that you are very close-minded. Fine. This is my last reply to you on this subject.

K Sports are re-painted D2's. Now with compression knob and external canisters. It will probably be a lot like upgrading from the Kia to the Kia Sport.


That, or I hit a deer on the way to work and just buy a new GTR.
You've apparently done your research, and it sounds like you've got it all worked out.



Play it safe? Please, you have no idea who I am or what I engineer, but I firmly believe in safety.

You firmly believe in safety... so your putting cheap Taiwanese shocks on for crappy handling on a 270hp ME Exotic. Right. Right. Makes sense to me. My bad.


I was referencing the fact that you drove a used car on a long trip back home, had to deal with a supposedly inferior A-arm, and then went on to track said car with supposedly inferior A-arms later? Sounds like you had time to switch them out before the track with the OEMs... Why not? Why take a chance destroying the car and injuring yourself and others with a known significant defect?

I'll tell you what. If you're that concerned about it, I'll put you in touch with Eddie whom coincidently also runs tech at the track, and did all the track support, and signed off on the car.

BTW, he will also tell you how crappy K Sport is.


Contrary to what you may think, you're not a professional driver with big sponsorships backing you (I'm not either. The best I could do a long time ago was Michelin). If you go out to the track on weekends to play, there's not enough riding on the line that should make you feel you need to take significant risks.

You don't need big name sponsors to get better shocks than K-Sport. Especially driving NSXes, P-Cars, and the like. Honestly, you can get better performing shocks at any dealer parts counter.
 
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Hello

So just put on my car the d2 kit

So i went from bilstein/eibach setup and personaly i think to be a good driver cause of my past career.

Anyway i installed the kit for the with any kind of meseaure just only my impression so i did the first drien test without make yet the wheel allignement i put the same higher then before

Anyway on my test track that i use usualy
time was

Bilstein/eibach Yoko A048 7.22
Bilstein/Eibach Toyo PXT1R 7.38

D2 setup with Toyo PXT1R 7.27

I think that with A 048 i will go aroun 7.10

Anyway its not son bad now i will finish the setup with also changing some whel alignements



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goldNSX

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Bilstein/eibach Yoko A048 7.22
Bilstein/Eibach Toyo PXT1R 7.38

D2 setup with Toyo PXT1R 7.27

IMO the Eibach/Bilstein combo didn't feel fast and wasn't it actually even while spirited street driving. No wonder the differences are that high. But laptimes don't say much about the overall quality either.
 
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IMO the Eibach/Bilstein combo didn't feel fast and wasn't it actually even while spirited street driving. No wonder the differences are that high. But laptimes don't say much about the overall quality either.


Yes of course

But anyway the quality look very good outside and inside they look same material and construction of tein. i don't know in america but here the tein kit cost 1350 euro and d2 1000 euro like koni and bilstein with spring so different its realy close

The weight different from bilstein its around 2,5- 3 kg each so total reduction its around 12-13 kg

I never try the tein yet but i try koni and bilstein that are the same price of D2 and at the moment the D2 feel very good

Like the koni also the d2 have the same rebound adjustement and the only thing is that for feel something you must go very high click to hardeness now i am +6 from all hard in front and +15 from all to hard rear I compress the spring 3 turn in front and 2 turn in rear front spring are 9kg rear spring 12.

Now i must to work on alignement and ride height for to find the perfect balance

In the end of juin i will be in NUrburgring so will be the definaly test
 
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