Now that the source of the cams was discovered it should make getting the car running properly possible. Good job Prime Snoops.
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New owner, mechanical problems!
- Thread starter simonasaur
- Start date
Now that the source of the cams was discovered it should make getting the car running properly possible. Good job Prime Snoops.
- Joined
- 16 December 2018
- Messages
- 163
the PO told me he owned it for the last 15 years.
There is a separate function in the OBDII system called emission monitors. The monitors need to be 'set' or operational before you can even enter into the compliance part of the test (i.e. monitors can be set; but, you can still fail HC, NOX ....). The 'at least 4 to pass' sounds like your emission monitors are not being set. If you have access to an OBDII scanner the good ones will tell you which monitors are or are not set. Failure of the Evap system monitor to set is not uncommon and there was a thread from a couple of months ago discussing getting that monitor to set. It may be worthwhile searching for that thread.
Once you get the monitors to set you may find that the engine may or may not be in compliance. The aftermarket cams may or may not be a problem. If the non VTEC cam profile is identical to the OEM cams then the cams may not present a problem for the compliance test because testing does not get the engine into VTEC mode (as far as I am aware).
The ECU gets signals from a clutch switch, neutral switch and a brake switch which are part of the idle control system on the ECU. If the engine goes into correct idle speed control after you apply the brakes then the ECU seems to be getting the correct signal from the brake switch. It may be the other input signals that are missing. Check the operation of the clutch and neutral switch inputs to the ECU. As dirtbag noted, the throttle position sensor likely forms part of the idle control system although the service manual is not explicit on this. I expect that the idle control system need to see a TPS position signal somewhere below 10% as one of the permissives to enable idle control. Check the closed and open position of the TPS as per the service manual.
There are also two accelerator position sensors that it might be worthwhile to check as a last resort. By the way, the drive by wire cars do have a throttle cable. Unlike the pre DBW cars it is a 'shorty'. It goes from the throttle pedal through the front bulkhead to the accelerator position sensor mounted just on the other side of the bulkhead. Its possible that the cable could be hanging up causing your idle problem; but, I think that unlikely. Should be easy to check for smooth operation of the cable and the attached accelerator position sensors under the APS cover.
If you have access to an OBDII code scanner, use it to check for any stored error codes which may point you to the cause of the problem. In the absence of a code reader you can use the service check connector to trigger display of stored error codes in the ECU. However, counting MIL light flashes and gaps is a hassle.
Here is the OBDII drive cycle [MENTION=26435]Old Guy[/MENTION] referred to:
The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
I believe it is also detailed in your owner's manual.
For those of you who are not Oregon residents, Oregon emissions compliance testing (for OBDII cars) involves the technician plugging a cable into the car's OBD port. There is no rolling road type testing or anything involving bringing the engine speed above an idle. Aftermarket cams would not impact the test results here in Oregon.
PO is user "Blackcat" has a post history on Prime dating back to 2006, so this seems reasonable. Unfortunately he never mentioned technical issues and mostly posted in the "off-topic" section.
Typical for a vacuum leak.
- Joined
- 16 December 2018
- Messages
- 163
I’m really appreciate all the help and feed back’ I also received some via DM. Which is a classy look and very helpful as well. At the end of the day I think that the car can be fixed; it’s just gonna take a lot longer and more money than I expected. The shop that’s in charge of the repairs is doing a diligent job sourcing info and expertise to get it done. Andsince the weather here in Portland is pretty cold and wet during these past months it hasn’t really been an issue.
The biggest thing for me is the weird limbo feeling of owning the car but not being able to register it in my name until the emissions is sorted. So it feels like I’m in owners Purgatory.
A positive thing is that I’ve had time to collect almost all the parts to modify the car to my liking in the mean time. Once I get the car back I’ll post a before and after.
Thanks for all all the support everyone!
The biggest thing for me is the weird limbo feeling of owning the car but not being able to register it in my name until the emissions is sorted. So it feels like I’m in owners Purgatory.
A positive thing is that I’ve had time to collect almost all the parts to modify the car to my liking in the mean time. Once I get the car back I’ll post a before and after.
Thanks for all all the support everyone!
Did you get your car sorted?
