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NOS kits

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I know that RM makes NOS kit for around $1,900 but what makes it so diffrent from basic kit from a NOS dealer for $525 ??

When you install a NOS kit do you need a additional fuel pump or fuel presure regulator or maybe NSX gives enought fuel ? But since you will be getting more oxygen then the mixture have to be adjusted. Right
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I don't know what is the story with that fuel. And what about the MAP sensor do you have to do somthing with it too?

When you hit NOS how big of a kick do you feel on NSX?

Thanks
 
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Okay, I'll try to answer all of those.

1) The extra money for the RM kit is for the little touches like ash tray switches and lines that you know will be the right length. Personally, I'd get an NOS or similar kit. Around $550 for everything.

2) You need more fuel pressure if you run a big dry shot. If you keep the shot small or go wet, you will be fine with the stock fuel pressure. With a small dry shot, the ECU will compensate.

3) How big of a kick depends on how big of a shot. You only get a few hp when the VTEC kicks in, but you notice it. If you figure you have 250 hp at the wheels, an extra 70 at the wheels is a 28% jump. Plus the torque goes up even more. Trust me, you will feel it.

Free bonus info:

4) A dry kit injects NOS only. A wet kit injects both NOS and fuel.

5) Most dry kits fog near the throttle body. A wet kit can go in near the throttle body (single fogger) or you can run a nozzle to each port on the intake manifold. You can run both fuel and NOS through the same nozzle.

5) IMHO dry kits are fine for small shots, but wet setups are safer and significantly better with big shots. Also, port injection is the best, but also the only setup that is difficult at all. Not really hard, but takes patience (bending tubes) and some mechanical know how.

6) I just helped my friend set up a 350/300 dual stage port system on his drag car. The car now makes about 1400-1500 at the wheels. Pretty cool.

Feel free to ask any more questions.
 
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David, What would you reccomend to use to increase fuel pressure? I know B&M offers an application. (adjustable pressure riser) I think NOS offers one as well. Do you know anything about these 2 good or bad? What would you think would be the max for a safe dry shot w/the correct increased pressure? 100? Thanks for your opinion.

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Jason
 
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Thanks Dave.
I will go with a dry kit 60-70 shot maximum. 70 extra HP sure must be a kick for NSX
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I don't want to get extra fuel pump or fuel pressure regulators to be honest. I had 97 Prelude where I installed my self a DRAG turbo and to get the mixture right at 9PSI I had MF2 fuel system and I spend days on dyno and lots of $ to get right mixture going.

Now I just want easy setup this time, so if I can get the basic NOS and just get shorter pipes/lines from SummitRacing.com I will be happy puppy
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and then build it up like the extra add-on goodies.
So if I don't need the additional fuel pump for 70HP dry shot it would be great. So the ECU will notice the extra burning and send more fuel ? Right? Did any one actually test this against air/fuel gauge ?

Thanks again for a lots of good info !
 
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Originally posted by Jason Weaver:
David, What would you reccomend to use to increase fuel pressure? I know B&M offers an application. (adjustable pressure riser) I think NOS offers one as well. Do you know anything about these 2 good or bad? What would you think would be the max for a safe dry shot w/the correct increased pressure? 100? Thanks for your opinion.

The max safe dry shot depends on how involved you want to get with the fuel system. As a general rule, I would not exceed 100hp with a motor like the NSXs. However, Brent has heavily modified his fuel system and runs a 150 dry shot. Obviously the 70 shot RM uses has been pretty reliable. I would think 100 would work as well, as several people are running that much with dry shots. You can change the amount by swapping out the pills (easy, 5 min), so it is prudent to start safe (70) and gradually work your way up. You can spend $45 or so and do a dyno pull with the larger shot and use a sniffer to see if it is getting lean. Safe way to work up to a bigger shot. Just show up with three or four pills and do several pulls.

There are several ways to increase the fuel pressure. You can have a secondary pump tied into the NOS circuit. You can use a boost-a-pumb type device like the CT blower kit uses or you can upgrade your fuel pump. There are several performance Honda-type in-tank pumps available and I would bet at least one of them works with the NSX. What you want to avoid is getting a condition that results in your motor running rich when the NOS is off.

By the way, there are several brands of fuel pressure regulators that are good - CT, Paxton, NOS, AEM, etc. I use a Paxton on my car.

It really isn't that hard to do a single nozzle wet shot, however. And, it is safer. Cost would probably only be $100 more. Installation might take an extra hour.

By the way the NOS tech line is 714-546-0592. They are there to serve.

Good luck, and, as always, feel free to ask any more Qs.
 
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David, Thank you so much for the information. I'm glad we have someone that is so knowledgable. I have spoken with Brent previously. My goal,if possible, is a super safe 100 dry shot. I already have the RM 70 kit installed, and I was hoping to just improve this setup for the simplicity as well as the cost. I understand dyno time will be nessecary. As well as to safely go to a 100 I will need to improve the fuel system. Do you think that a pressure riser alone would be sufficient? Seems that the ecu would still regulate amount of fuel to keep the mixture proper off the NOS,(with either the riser, the pump or both) as well as fatten the fuel up enough when spraying. The riser is obviously the easiest upgrade as well as the most cost effective, not that the pump is too expensive if nessecary. If the pressure is increased by the regulator, is it increased all of the time? (I assume it is)Or is it still regulated by the ECU and then the ability of more pressure is available. In turn, would the car be running too rich under normal operation like you mentioned? Depends on proper tuning I assume. I just want to make sure I go about this properly before diving in. Stock internals will handle a 100 safely correct? Where is the limit of the stock internals in your opinion? Thank you again for your time and info.

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Jason
 
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The ECU does not alter the fuel pressure. The ECU is programmed to operate at the stock pressure, so when you raise the fuel pressure beyond that you are 'fooling' it into delivering more fuel. For example, if an injector delivers a certain amount of fuel in a specific duty cycle at 30 psi, it will deliver 50% more fuel at 45 psi with the same duty cycle. It is a linear relationship until you get to a pressure level that locks up the injector. Usually 85 psi or higher with modern injectors.

Many fuel pressure regulators are rising rate types. They have a vaccum port and the pressure you set at idle is a starting point. I would imagine that if you want a constant rate, you would just have to close off the vaccum port. Probably should run it as a rising rate, though, as the NOS will normally only be used at WOT.

What you do not want to do is set up a fuel system that is delivering too much fuel when you are not running NOS. I would suspect that the ECU will correct itself (via the 02 sensor) if you bumped the pressure up a bit. Mark B. or Larry could tell you for sure. I believe you could do this, then the fuel system would have the capacity to react without being limited by duty cylce when the NOS was switched on and the 02 sensor shows the burn getting lean. I don't think it would take much of a change for a 100 shot. Again, Mark or Larry would know for sure. I haven't been using my ECU for some time now.

When you dyno the car to test the 100 shot, make sure the bottle is topped off. You want to test at maximum bottle pressure, because if it is okay there, it will be good all of the time. Also, even if you have a warmer, top the bottle off. The warmer will give you the same pressue reading as a full bottle, but the charge is not as dense.

The stock internals should be good to 425 crank hp, as long as you don't lean out. That can burn a piston no matter how little NOS you are using. Brent has been running a 150 shot for some time now, so we know that will work. : )

Still think a wet shot is the way to go. But a dry shot is a bit simpler.

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Don't no nuttin 'bout no NSX;
Don't no nuttin 'bout birthin' no babbies.
 
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Can you buy an electronic fuel controller and tap into ECU MAP signal wire ? This will trick the ECU about the fuel being delivered and it will send more in. But I think this is very thin solution.

Does any one run en electronic fuel controller on there NSX ? (HKS, APEXI, GREDDY etc..)

Thx,
 
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So to have this complete control would you need some type of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? What about the timing?
 
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Originally posted by GMat:
So to have this complete control would you need some type of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? What about the timing?

No. A fuel pressure regulator gives you rather crude control, but you are sitll at the mercy of the ECU. The only way to really run the show is with a programmable engine management system.

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Don't no nuttin 'bout no NSX;
Don't no nuttin 'bout birthin' no babbies.
 
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