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Paranoid about clutch..

Joined
5 May 2005
Messages
190
Location
Boston, MA
Hey guys,

The stock clutch.. Some say it lasts forever, some say it goes in 30k miles.

My car is stock, and I drive it pretty hard, and have a habit of banging through the gears. I do *not* slip the clutch, and minimize this even from a stop.. Usually I am a "Hard Shifter", by my following definitions :)

Could you guys give your feedback about your shifting styles in relation to clutch life?

Specifically.. Which category are you, and how long have your clutches lasted?

  • Those that let the clutch out slow, let it slip a bit in order to be smooth (soft shifters)
  • Those that let the clutch out fast, sometimes at RPM ..(Hard shifters)
  • Those that often do burnouts, drop the clutch at high RPM (crazy people)
 
Dave Hardy said:
I suspect that the hard shifting will not significantly effect clutch life either way, but it isn't doing your synchronizers and shift forks any favors.

Aye.. I think the clutch wear from hard shifting is minimal, but what do I know.. In so far as the shift forks, no, I think this is fine. The synchros I have to plead ignorance on as I'm not sure how they function..
 
Look at it this way- the clutch only wears while the pedal is moving. Faster clutch operation = less wear.
The exception is that once it starts to slip, wear occurs VERY quickly with hard accels. Of cousre, they all get repaired before they get far :rolleyes:

MB
 
Normally when I wonder if my clutch is going; it is and its costly :frown:
 
Off the line, I engage clutch smoothly by letting the engine RPM drop, at the same time slipping the clutch a little bit to get car rolling and then only applying enough throttle to keep the engine RPMs from lugging. I avoid using too much throttle and slipping clutch when coming off the line.

For shifting between gears, I time my shifts and match RPM as much as possible to minimize slipping the clutch. For downshifting, I usually double clutch to match RPM to the gear I'm shifting into, whenever it's practical.
 
Slipping or baging, clutch will go.
When slipping, the thing will wear on the friction plates, when banging you will sooner or later experience the 'honda clutchplatespring failure'
There are some small springs in the friction plates, which will get a tremendous amount off force on them when you bang the clutch.
I've seen them on different Honda's (also NSX) simply brake out of there holders. If your lucky, you don't even notice it, but most of the time you will be in trouble.

Slipping the clutch without transfering torque is not so bad, using it as an torque converter will give loadsa wear.
 
My last visit to the dealership they said my clutch was down to the nubs and it would be $3700.00 to put a new one it. I was kinda shocked as mine's a 95 and thought it was in the 2k range. I figure I'll be easy on it and see how far it goes. Not sure how they die... hopefully the slippage gets gradually worse and doesn't leave me stranded somewhere. I think my Acura parts guy is qouting prices for a 97+ clutch.
 
I happen to have my reciept from my last clutch replacement here in my desk. Here is the break down,

Labor...............960.00
Parts...............1649.38
Tax.................136.07

Tolal................$2745.45

Mine is a 91 and I usually get about 30 to 45K on the clutch.
 
I paid $1100 for the complete stock clutch and $500 for the install at a Acura Dealership.
 
my clutch is slipping bad! got quote from palm beach acura in FL...$3850.00 fo stock clutch and fly wheel...prolly going home 2 GA and have acura of augusta do it...going w/comptech combo...also having water pump/timing belt and valve adjustment done...anyone thats had this surface what were you quoted?
Water pump/T-belt $1780
stock clutch combo $3850
valve adjust/90k check up $680
 
DutchBlackNsx said:
when banging you will sooner or later experience the 'honda clutchplatespring failure'
There are some small springs in the friction plates, which will get a tremendous amount off force on them when you bang the clutch.
That's why I have a Sachs competition metal clutch with no damper springs at all - something for the hardcore banging guys :wink:
 
NSX 3.0 said:
I paid $1100 for the complete stock clutch and $500 for the install at a Acura Dealership.

I paid around $900 for clutch/flywell combo and $250 for installation, a nice perk of the job. Im very hard on my clutch's. I enjoy a good smoky burnout from time to time and frequently visit the dragstrip. :biggrin: I also commute about 2 hrs a day to work in traffic... :frown:
 
shhhhiieeetttt!

I know who Ill PM when my clutch gives..... :wink:


BRIDGEWATER ACURA said:
I paid around $900 for clutch/flywell combo and $250 for installation, a nice perk of the job. Im very hard on my clutch's. I enjoy a good smoky burnout from time to time and frequently visit the dragstrip. :biggrin: I also commute about 2 hrs a day to work in traffic... :frown:
 
BRIDGEWATER ACURA said:
I paid around $900 for clutch/flywell combo and $250 for installation, a nice perk of the job. Im very hard on my clutch's. I enjoy a good smoky burnout from time to time and frequently visit the dragstrip. :biggrin: I also commute about 2 hrs a day to work in traffic... :frown:


Mike tell them next week you are bringing your other nsx in to get done.
 
I just picked up a stock clutch disk, throwout bearing, and pressure plate from a 2005 with 2000 miles. Fellow board member for $500 skins. Both happy about the deal. :biggrin: Have just changed out the 5spd and its rapidly deteriorating clutch for the 2005 clutch and a crate order 6spd. All work performed at 75000 km's and in my garage for $0.00. :) The joys of playing with cars since puberty. :tongue: I can't fathom paying the prices cited above in this thread for a clutch job. HOLY! :eek:
 
NSX-Racer said:
That's why I have a Sachs competition metal clutch with no damper springs at all - something for the hardcore banging guys :wink:

Can you feel the difference, when the springs are not in?
 
DutchBlackNsx said:
Can you feel the difference, when the springs are not in?
Yes, you have absolutely no delay at the digital (all or nothing) grip point when you shift at high rpms. Stock clutch tends to slip a bit or makes the transition smoother. Not sure what makes the real difference - the different plate material, the higher clamping force or the non existence of damper springs - I suspect it's the sum of all.
 
NSX-Racer said:
Yes, you have absolutely no delay at the digital (all or nothing) grip point when you shift at high rpms. Stock clutch tends to slip a bit or makes the transition smoother. Not sure what makes the real difference - the different plate material, the higher clamping force or the non existence of damper springs - I suspect it's the sum of all.

NSX-Racer
what's like driving your car on the street? is it like on-&-off with no free play?
or is it you have to learn how to shift differently? Is this something you can live with for the street?
 
I only drive it on the streets for test purposes as it's a track dedicated car. I wouldn't want to get stuck with it in a traffic jam. You don't have to shift different of course, you have to play different with throttle and clutch pedal as it's really an on/off thing (as I already stated with the word "digital"). Be prepared to kill the engine everytime you start at a green signal or in a queue with not enough rpms.

Nothing for everyday driving IMHO.
 
NSX-Racer said:
I only drive it on the streets for test purposes as it's a track dedicated car. I wouldn't want to get stuck with it in a traffic jam. You don't have to shift different of course, you have to play different with throttle and clutch pedal as it's really an on/off thing (as I already stated with the word "digital"). Be prepared to kill the engine everytime you start at a green signal or in a queue with not enough rpms.

Nothing for everyday driving IMHO.

Ah..... thats very much like the exedy clutch Gerard had in his NSX. I first thought he was taking the piss with driving off from a standing still, then i tried it..... omg..... Thats NOT useable on the streets.
 
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