Ok now that I understand what you're trying to do a little bit better maybe I can help you out. There's still another question though but I'm going to assume a couple of things. Since the car is going to be written off for business I'm going to assume that you want to optimize the payment to be a low as possible, want to minimize the down and that you plan on turning the car back end at the end of the lease.
You should lock down a couple of the variables before negotiating any deal otherwise it can getting complex trying to figure out what is what when the sales guy is trying to close you. The variables are term, mileage, excessive mileage penalty, money factor, residual plus terminantion fees.
Term has the biggest effect on payment. I'd lock it down first as it's the commitment that hurts the most if you try to get out of it early. I'd also pay special attention to the fine print on ending the lease early. There can be some expensive clauses such as you pay us the remaining payments now plus an early termination fee.
Next I'd lock the mileage down with the lowest penalty for going over. I've been able to get it as low as 10 cents versus some leases where they wanted 20 cents.
If you lock these down then you can compare the used lease to the Acura package. BTW the special is a really good deal and would have changed my decision from a buy to a lease new.
At this point you should decide pretty firm what your willing to make in a lease payment. I drove my financing guy crazy but he was the one who had access to the system look at the deals.
What he ended up doing was taking my credit rating and searched for leases that met the term, mileage and payment parameters. The variables he had left to work with were money factor and residual.
Sometimes the financial guy can reconstruct the deal to make it work by increasing the residual or ny bumping up the initial purchase value. If your not planning on keeping the car then this doesn't matter that much as your going to pay the down, the payments, mileage penalty and termination fees and hand them the keys in the end. But of you're going to do any kind of trade or buy out then it may not be so good.
Over all as I looked into this last year I found the best money factor for used cars through First Union. They were really tight on the credit rating and I had to go through the dealer as they would not work with me directly. In the end I didn't lease I purchased so I don't have the details on the lease.
I did a quick lease calculation for a 95T using a residual factor of 47%. This might be low but when you talk with the money guy hhe should tell you the percent. The money factor is pretty close to what I think is available on the market for used cars but once again I could be off though as I haven't looked into it lately.
Vehical Price: $53,000
Down payment: $1995
Money Factor: .0037
Term: 48 months
Residual: $25,000
Payment: $823
Amt Financed: $39,504
Total Spent: $41,499
Cost to own: $25,000
Total cost: $66,499
I hope this helps and doesn't confuse the matter more for you.