Power Test fo NSX
- Thread starter Yankee
- Start date
What was the RWHP on the same car, same dyno, same temp/day?
283 seems pretty good to me.
look like about 40hp increase, based on average un-modded power.
It looks like he went from 279.5 to 283.4bhp
The power levels are brake horse power, not actual/rwhp, so without the correction factor, we don't really know what's going on. These numbers are being inflated likely 10% or more, to estimate engine hp.
The power levels are brake horse power, not actual/rwhp, so without the correction factor, we don't really know what's going on. These numbers are being inflated likely 10% or more, to estimate engine hp.
And what are the averages? for NA1?
The problem is, we primarily measure performance through RWHP, which cannot be compared to your BHP figures, without knowing the correction factor.
When my NA1 was still NA, with headers and exhaust, it produced 272rwhp - assuming a correction factor of 10%, this would be around 300bhp. Your correction factor could be as high as 15%, which would make the comparison power 313bhp.
I think if your only modification is this TB from SOS, this is a good result; if you have other modifications, such as tubular headers, then it would be perhaps cause for concern, but we don't know the dynometer, so perhaps not. If you do not have headers, this would be the next stage, as they result in a 20hp gain for early nsx's.
I think comparing numbers from different dynos is dubious, at best. I was told the dyno I put my car on here in Austria was very accurate. After going back and asking how often the dyno was actually calibrated to make sure it was accurate, they said "every two years". Great. God knows how far the numbers drift away from accuracy by the time they carry out another calibration. Another dyno in the area claims to be the only dyno that is regularly calibrated in short intervals but one pull there costs EUR 300 (about USD 450). As to whether your car has a good amount of horsepower, good question! It would be best to compare it to other cars tested on that dyno at around the same time or to do a before/after dyno.
Looking at your screen shot, it looks like you did a pull on a rolling road type of dyno. Most dynos here in Europe seem to be rolling road dynos and they tend to show lower rear wheel horsepower figures than most dynos in the USA.
If my guesses are correct, your results were the following:
Measured rear wheel horsepower: 208.8 BHP at 8040 RPM (236.1 km/h)
Measured drivetrain loss: 74.6 BHP
Calculated crank horsepower: 283.4 BHP
Expected (norm) crank horsepower: 279.5 BHP
283.4 crank HP doesn't seem to be very far above the standard crank horsepower rating for an NSX, but who knows how much of an influence the dyno had on the numbers.
Looking at your screen shot, it looks like you did a pull on a rolling road type of dyno. Most dynos here in Europe seem to be rolling road dynos and they tend to show lower rear wheel horsepower figures than most dynos in the USA.
If my guesses are correct, your results were the following:
Measured rear wheel horsepower: 208.8 BHP at 8040 RPM (236.1 km/h)
Measured drivetrain loss: 74.6 BHP
Calculated crank horsepower: 283.4 BHP
Expected (norm) crank horsepower: 279.5 BHP
283.4 crank HP doesn't seem to be very far above the standard crank horsepower rating for an NSX, but who knows how much of an influence the dyno had on the numbers.
Sorry for my English...
What is RWHP?
What does mean correction factor?
I ran 1/4 13,62 - is it good/average/poor result for nsx?
What is RWHP?
What does mean correction factor?
I ran 1/4 13,62 - is it good/average/poor result for nsx?
You are right in your guesses...
- I have installed:
Cantrell intake manifold; SOS BBTB; Taitec headers GT-011 (2,3 kilo US
); Taitec catalist streight pipes GT-003; Taitec parallel exhaust GT-106 STLW; SOS ECU; 0 LEVEL AIR FILTERso I was bit dissatisfyed with results
RWHP = Rear Wheel Horse Power
Correction factor = the number your measured horsepower are multiplied with to correct them to "standard temperature and pressure". When the air is denser (when it's colder, when you're at a lower altitude, when there's a high pressure system dominating the weather, etc.) the air has more oxygen and the engine produces more horsepower. To correct for differences in the air pressure, temperature, etc., at different testing facilities, the results are corrected to an agreed standard temperature, air pressure, and humidity. That's why those things are shown in the bottom right corner of your screen shot. Since I don't see the correction factor specifically listed (usually something like 1.0354, 0.9872, etc.), I assume the horsepower figures listed in the upper right are already corrected.
If you haven't done a "before" measurement on the dyno, I think the quarter mile runs you mentioned may be a better way to determine your car's real power.
Correction factor = the number your measured horsepower are multiplied with to correct them to "standard temperature and pressure". When the air is denser (when it's colder, when you're at a lower altitude, when there's a high pressure system dominating the weather, etc.) the air has more oxygen and the engine produces more horsepower. To correct for differences in the air pressure, temperature, etc., at different testing facilities, the results are corrected to an agreed standard temperature, air pressure, and humidity. That's why those things are shown in the bottom right corner of your screen shot. Since I don't see the correction factor specifically listed (usually something like 1.0354, 0.9872, etc.), I assume the horsepower figures listed in the upper right are already corrected.
If you haven't done a "before" measurement on the dyno, I think the quarter mile runs you mentioned may be a better way to determine your car's real power.
Those are decent numbers, you should be happy. Do you have a stock air box? The only thing left to do is have your fuel injectors cleaned and flowed.
I don't think the BBTB helps normally aspirated cars, its sold mostly for forced induction.
I don't think the BBTB helps normally aspirated cars, its sold mostly for forced induction.
Yes, that's what it says... and really doesn't seem like much of an increase to me either. Of course, you're right about the MANY factors that could influence those numbers.
Do you have a before mods dyno? Where did they get the HOPM (NORM) rating from?
Same question I do have...strange...
What might be the reason? Also from the moment I have put new super tune ECU from SOS my mpg decreased dramatically, I could not say the exact figures in mpg, but it's about 18liter per 100km - approx 14mpg. From exhaust I feel a fuel scent and the idle rpm is jumping 0,8 - 1,1 -1000 rpm. Maybe I have to do something with fuel charts (by the way is it possible?)
The fuel smell is because of your test pipes. Of course, you have to consider that all of the items you mentioned are "bolt-on" parts which are not "majic" parts. You CAN "free up" horsepower lost by some items like exhaust, etc., but you can also lose horsepower and/or torque. You have to think of your engine as a big air pump, the more and the faster that you can get air into the engine and the more and faster you can get it out... means more horsepower! But without changing out the internals of the engine (like intake/exhaust runners, bore, stroke, etc), you really wouldn't see much of a difference with "bolt-on" parts. Although I do agree, I would have expected a little more. I think the one part where you lost horsepower is the throttle body. Getting too much air in would actually bog the motor down on a stock setup.
The SOS ECU is tuned for US gasoline specifications, perhaps you're running a different quailty of fuel there, which is not ideal for the SOS computer.
Did you measure your AFR while on the dyno? I would perhaps go back to your original EPROM and see if power changes.
280 bhp is shure low with your mods but this can come from the dyno used here. Dynos are a good way to quantify the power gains with a mod, less to know exactly the power of a car. As you do not have a baseline of your stock NSX on this dyno, I would suggest to test it with a (some) stock friend's car (n/a rather than turbo one). If it gives 20-30 bhp less than the claimed horsepower, you can say that this dyno gives very low numbers.
I got 300.3 bhp with header/exhaust/intake scoop (stock cats) on a dyno @ 3000 feet elevation.
If you realise that the dyno is not concerned and you really have 280 bhp, as said, the US Spec ECU could be the problem.
I got 300.3 bhp with header/exhaust/intake scoop (stock cats) on a dyno @ 3000 feet elevation.
If you realise that the dyno is not concerned and you really have 280 bhp, as said, the US Spec ECU could be the problem.
Thanks, I will try one day the original ECU, however it's a tricky thing - the DYNO test is only one available here located in garage that is located under the ramps being under construction - you may imagine how dirty and dangerous to get there. Only one man whos running the test, old and rubbish slings that was holding NSX from behind knoted to the towing ring from one side and thiiiiny handels on the dyno test ramp from the other - challenging stuff- sitting in a car runing over 240 km/h (150 m/ph) in front of a cement wall
Also I cannot check ones' stock NSX since it's only one NSX that is on wheels here at St. Petersburg. Mine. That time I have had a stock, there were no dyno test at all.
Sorry, what is AFR?
May be, anyhow will fight or some more HP. Did somebody installed free programmed ECU? If any sense to install one? What is better?
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