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Preventing corrosion on the steel & painted steel parts

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There's got to be a thread on this but I can't find it.

I'm installing my new LED bulbs. The interior pop-up mechanism has two painted steel frames that are showing some signs of corrosion. I'd like to treat them before I put it back together. especially as I think the one part is sold together with the headlight lens. I haven't been able to find the part #'s, but I'm sure they're $$$. Does bedliner stop corrosion completely? Plastidip? I have Krown rust protection in a spray-bomb, but I think that has to be applied yearly and is better when you start before any corrosion is apparent.
 
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Plastidip and spray on bedliner won't stop already existing rust. A rust converting product like POR that bonds to rust would be a better choice. Crown, Rust Check, and Corrosion Free (my pick) do a good job of slowing rust down, but do have to be reapplied now and again.
 
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I am forming a line behind The King. The plastidip / bedliner stuff is OK for helping with impact (rock) damage on exposed surfaces; but, spraying over a rusted surface is problem and an invitation to future disaster. It will not bond and creates a trap for moisture. The Rust Check / Fluid Film and similar products (WD 40 will work) will do a reasonable job of protecting the exposed surface. As the King notes you will have to re apply regularly and since they are non drying they will accumulate dust.

I have used POR 15 and like it - for what it is. Despite the name (Paint Over Rust), it is not 'paint over rust'. It does require removal of surface rust and pre treatment with their phosphoric acid solution. POR ends up with a rather thick and very hard super shiny surface coating which may cause fit problems because of its thickness. If you apply it when it is humid it sets up very quickly making it hard to get a smooth surface and can form bubbles. I have also used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator as a primer followed by Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black as a top coat. This has been a very durable coating with a nice factory like finish if you take the time to prepare and apply. It does require surface preparation of the metal and it is time consuming because the Eastwood products have a 24 hr hardening / reapplication window. I like the surface finish on the Eastwood products better than POR 15; but, they are more time consuming. I used POR 15 on my battery hold down where it it not so visible. My final alternative would be a trip to a powder coater. My local powder coating shop does black powder coating every day so they can usually turn around cleaning and coating small pieces very quickly. If you want any other color than black you may have a wait for a gap in the schedule where they set up for non black pieces. Non black pieces cost more as a result.
 
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