Question After Installing My Tein Mono Flex Coilovers

[PUREVIL]

I got the coilovers installed by my good friend and he was adjusting the heights and he said I couldn't lower the front more because one of the collars looks like its going to hit the control arm. Its far from to low and I thought I read you could drop it up to 2 inches? right now its about 1.4ish? So my question is did we adjust something wrong? Or will it not hit? The Teins are a lil different than my KWs on my charger. Thanks.

 

[angus]

yes , there is a point at which it looks like the collar will hit the upper arm, but if you are "lucky" enough to have the height set at this point , no need to worry since it only touches at full droop . totally normal

 

[Zishan]

Here is mine on Tein's. I had the same issue, the collar was hitting the suspension. I let the collar barely touch the suspension and with the wheel on and car on the ground, the weight of the car pushes the collar up and away from the control arm.

I don't think anyone is their right mind would go lower than this:

With my Tein's set on stiff, yes, my front lip was scrapping when hitting dips on the Hwy.

 

[Zishan]

Yes, the front tire tucks:

 

[PUREVIL]

Thanks for the replies.... mine isn't even close to tucking like yours though. Mine barely removes the wheel well gap, I will snap a pic later today. Im a detail freak and I would like just .5 inch more hahahaha

 

[fourringpilot]

Yes, the front tire tucks:

Wow. What happens if you do a full wheel lock? How much before it rubs?

 

[Zishan]

Wow. What happens if you do a full wheel lock? How much before it rubs?

The only rubbing I'm getting is the front lip on every driveway, dip, angle, etc. The only thing I'm concerned about is going through front lips.

I guess my offsets are not so aggressive, that there is no rubbing while turning.

 

[PUREVIL]

The only rubbing I'm getting is the front lip on every driveway, dip, angle, etc. The only thing I'm concerned about is going through front lips.

I guess my offsets are not so aggressive, that there is no rubbing while turning.

So no rubbing in the wheel wells just the front lip cuz its so low huh? I dont want to be that low but it looks sweet can you post more pics of your car.

 

[NSXAMG996TT]

Yes, the front tire tucks:

This was exactly how my car was purchased from the previous owner. The slammed-look and lowrider profile of the car just looks plain stupid and ghetto. Reminds me back in the days when guys would cut their springs.

I had to redo the entire suspension just to get the car back into it's proper functioning specs, then lower it, alignment, and corner-balancing.

In short, it's OK to have a 1-2 finger gap when lowering. Please don't turn another NSX into a lowrider!

 

[Zishan]

The slammed-look and lowrider profile of the car just looks plain stupid and ghetto. Reminds me back in the days when guys would cut their springs.

Thank you for your opinion.

Glad I didn't post pics of the neon lights, my fuzzy steering wheel, my 6 5inch exhaust tips, and my ferrari stickers. :tongue:

I too think all NSX's should come red with black interior and they all must remain stock. We are all sheep no? :wink:

In short, it's OK to have a 1-2 finger gap when lowering. Please don't turn another NSX into a lowrider!

Oh behalf of those with "1-2 finger gap", I'm sure they are ecstatic that you approve. :smile:

 

[Mark S]

the slammed-look and lowrider profile of the car just looks plain stupid and ghetto.

+1,2,3,4---------------------------------------------!

 

[PUREVIL]

I personally think to low is not good as well, but thats what customizing cars is all about, individuality and trying to be creative to stand out from everyone else. I like mine lowered, but not slammed.

 

[enkrypt3d]

PUREVIL, post some pictures of your issue... I'm running TEIN RE's and don't have that issue. Not sure which collar you are referring to?

Is it the spring pre-load? Or the ride height adjustment collars? I didn't have any clearance issues on mine.

 

[otoro]

This was exactly how my car was purchased from the previous owner. The slammed-look and lowrider profile of the car just looks plain stupid and ghetto. Reminds me back in the days when guys would cut their springs.

I had to redo the entire suspension just to get the car back into it's proper functioning specs, then lower it, alignment, and corner-balancing.

In short, it's OK to have a 1-2 finger gap when lowering. Please don't turn another NSX into a lowrider!

Just because a car is slammed, it would look "plain stupid and ghetto?"

Lowering the car properly , is much more involved than installing oem springs and shocks.

To each there own.

IMO, Zishan's stance is just right.

 

[stuntman]

PUREVIL, post some pictures of your issue... I'm running TEIN RE's and don't have that issue. Not sure which collar you are referring to?

Is it the spring pre-load? Or the ride height adjustment collars? I didn't have any clearance issues on mine.

+1.

You can adjust the ride height one of two ways:

1- the collar at the bottom of the spring (where you would adjust the ride height on any other coilover -like your KW)

2- the Tein-specific collar at the base of the suspension.

The whole body of the Tein is threaded, allowing you to adjust the ride height without reducing your travel. On a normal coilover, as you lower the car, you loose suspension travel. Tein has a separate ride height collar at the base of the green housing (you twist the ENTIRE threaded body to change the ride height) from the 'spring pre-load' collar that is a double locking collar.

By changing the ride height of the 'preload collar', you are reducing your travel (Tein's don't have a lot of travel to begin with, so its not a good idea from that stand point) as well as most likely causing you the problem of the 'preload collar' hitting the control arm at a relatively high ride height.

Loosen the top double-collar (pre-load collar) and tighten the collar against the spring as much as you can by your hand (you only want the 'pre-load' hand-tight, so you maximize your travel, and pre-load it enough so it won't rattle over bumps). Then use the spanner wrenches to lock the bottom and top perches together. From there go to the single bottom collar that locks against the threaded body, loosen that one and the twist the entire black threaded-body to your desired ride height.

If you're not going to corner-balance your car (which is expensive), make sure you and your friend measure the distance between the top of the spring, and the bottom double-spring perch and make them even left-right (so the pre-load is the same and the height is the same. Then measure from the bottom of the double-spring perch to the bottom locking collar and make sure that distance is also equal right to left.

It may sound silly (and I dont know if its even possible) but make sure you have the fronts mounted up front, and the rears on the rear (the front assembly and spring is shorter than the rear).


Good luck!

 

[PUREVIL]

PUREVIL, post some pictures of your issue... I'm running TEIN RE's and don't have that issue. Not sure which collar you are referring to?

Is it the spring pre-load? Or the ride height adjustment collars? I didn't have any clearance issues on mine.

Its the collar at the base of the spring for height adjustment. But honestly where its sitting now after a few miles is pretty good and I fear going any lower it wont get into my drive way.

 

[enkrypt3d]

Its the collar at the base of the spring for height adjustment. But honestly where its sitting now after a few miles is pretty good and I fear going any lower it wont get into my drive way.

hehe i know that one for sure!

When you say clearance issue do you mean .5" or is it touching if you go lower?

Mine are pretty close but theres no reason it would touch with normal driving. Unless your control arm is bent? :redface:

 

[stuntman]

Its the collar at the base of the spring for height adjustment. But honestly where its sitting now after a few miles is pretty good and I fear going any lower it wont get into my drive way.

Read post #15 and reset your ride height. Make sure to measure everything to have equal ride heights right-left to minimize the possibility of throwing cross-weight in the car.

 

[Fougeee]

Great explanation Stuntman on post #15. I have the same teins and have the same issue. I've been lowering my car from the top pre-load double collar. I have to go back and re-do my entire suspension properly now. How do I adjust the bottom threaded body without taking the suspension out? By the way when are KW coming out for the NSX?

 

[enkrypt3d]

Great explanation Stuntman on post #15. I have the same teins and have the same issue. I've been lowering my car from the top pre-load double collar. I have to go back and re-do my entire suspension properly now. How do I adjust the bottom threaded body without taking the suspension out? By the way when are KW coming out for the NSX?

Hey man sick ride! I love those rims!

The way you do it is measure where its at now, from the top of the threads (there should be about 1.5" here) and then just loosen the very bottom collar and spin it up until you reach the desired drop.. (take off the brass ring that holds brake lines)

Then u can just turn the entire body of the shock by grabbing the spring and pulling it. This will make the shaft of the body of the shock spin within the cup that sits at the bottom of the coilover.

Once you spin it enough to hit the collar, be sure to measure again, to be sure you have the right amount of drop (not too much!) With mine there is .5" of thread showing above the collar. So this should be the perfect amount for you if you are running 18" rims. let me know how it goes! You shouldn't have to remove the coilovers to drop it!

 

[stuntman]

Great explanation Stuntman on post #15. I have the same teins and have the same issue. I've been lowering my car from the top pre-load double collar. I have to go back and re-do my entire suspension properly now. How do I adjust the bottom threaded body without taking the suspension out? By the way when are KW coming out for the NSX?

Scheduled for mid-October.

I need to ask if they plan on offering the V2 (single adjustable) as well as the double adjustable V3. V2's tend to be a few hundred less than V3s and the simpler single-adjustable aspect may be more appealing to some as they are not as complicated as 2-ways.